stefan44

had the same problem with my 16l gas geyser, that it only ignited after i loosened the gas line and let the pressure out. I ended up changing the solenoid valve (R270) and it works again. I suspect that the solenoid valve got sticky, and could not overcome the valve springs force while under pressure.

sold. mods please delete

BUMP

Item: Victron Blue solar 100/50 2018 Model Ellies 1000w pure sine wave inverter with soft start (can start a Black and Decker 1250w circular saw) Victron VE.direct bluetooth dongle BMV 702 Age: 2018 model, inverter unknown, Dongle I will have to check serial number.... Price: R3000 for all. Payment Method Accepted: EFT & cash Warranty: N/A Packaging: Will box it for currier, not original Condition: Mppt- Good working order. Inverter- fair condition Location: Secunda Mpumalanga Reason: Not needed anymore Shipping: Yes at buyers cost I will throw in a BMV702 with the sale (voltage reading off by 0.5v but SOC is okay)

If you have 10 cells in parallel then you should build your battery that you have 10 serries connections per parallel bank connecting to the next 10 cell parallel bank and NOT a string of 10 cells in parallel with one strip to the next parallel string to form the serries connection. I would still double up so that there is 20 pieces of nickel in every serries connection.

your average mAh is 28.359 (A). cell 8 is 28.045 (B) mAh deviation is 313.6 mAh (C) now A - B = C Swop cell A49 with A78, then you should have a better deviation.

Short answer is Yes.

I keep mine at 55V its 3.43V per cell, the reason I use this cell voltage is because I still pull full capacity from cells, and I set my JK bms to start balancing at 3.40V. I works for me.

38.4V? What inverters use that voltage?

according to the cable feeding from the breaker, breaker should be rated for the same or slightly less amps than the cable specs. amps and volts, and dont use a ac breaker for DC, use a rated D C breaker

ALL cells is from China.

Victron... you will never be disappointed with the VictronConnect app and the VRM portal

New members of the Muliplus ii family is on he way... 48/4500 and 48/6500

Your list seems okay, just short the mid clamps as mentioned. I always use renusol mounting hardware, and is works out to almost R1000 per panel mounted.

what is the kW rating of the elements in you geyser? and also the specs of the solar panels that you want to use? Does your geysers have the new Solar port (renewable energy port) I think it is a M22 threaded hole, you do get DC pencil elements that fits into the port and it is a PTC element, you could wire DC directly to the element without a thermostat. they go for about R1000 a piece ad its 1100W DC. you can power your AC element also directly from DC(heating elements does not care about ac or dc) from your panels, the problem comes in to regulate the temperature as you cannot use a AC thermostat with DC power. (you can do it but you should not do it)

DC current will fry the thermostat contacts, as DC does not have a 0v potential point 50 times every second so the contacts will arc violently when the circuit is broken.

I am glad you found a solution. keep well

to heat water from 30 degrees to 55 degrees with a 2.6kw element that is submerged (100% efficiency) will take 1H40 minutes. to do the same with a 2.75kw element will take 1H35 minutes. to heat water from 35 degrees to 55 degrees in 30 minutes will require a 8.7kW element your tuya/geyserwise system is not accurate.

I highly doubt if a 12v power supply will charge the battery, you need a power supply more than the battery voltage of 14.3v, as these units almost always employ a PWM architecture or a simple buck converter topology, in either case you will need a voltage higher or equal to battery voltage.

they use a lifepo4 battery, I would connect a normal car 12v charger(non intelligent) to the solar input of the unit (18v max) just make sure of polarity, and use the internal PWM solar charger as it's setting is correct for the lifepo4 battery inside.

for interest sake, I just had a look at my roll of helukable solarfelx pv. its rating is 1500v DC and 1000v AC for 2.5mm2 up to 240mm2 cable spec sheet states that it can be used underground

spotweld is the best option. the cells will rust further on the exposed scratched surface, the anti oxidation coating was removed. I used to do the same, grind the spotweld leftovers off to make a smooth surface for future spotwelds, until I saw that the cells rust on the grinded areas and over time the rust spreads over the anode to form bumps under the cell wrapping. I now salvage cells by grinding(dremel) the original spotwelds off between cells, trim the original spotweld to the desired shape, and spotweld nickel strips over the original spotweld.

well you can have a 422Ah 48v 20.2kWh battery and save R25k or have a 400 Ah 51v 20.4kWh battery and spend R25k now the question... is R25k worth 0.2 kWh

I regularly have the same problem on my gas geyser, it seems that the valve/solenoid or whatever is controlling the gas flow gets stuck in the closed position. I close the gas supply valve to the geyser, slightly loosen the gas pipe on the geyser until the gas pressure in the pipe and geyser is released, then retighten the pipe and open the gas supply valve, and it ignites again for a while... It tends to happen more regularly after i change gas bottles so initially I thought that the strainer in the gas supply pipe fitting gets blocked and every time I loosen the pipe and release the pressure it clears the strainer just enough to work again, but I have check the strainer a couple of times this happens and it was clean every time, so my thoughts are back at a sticky valve/solenoid. I hope this helps.

Your multimeter should be on Voltage, and A.C