stefan44

Strange question, Pylontech does not make inverters
are you JAMES NAIDOO?

Strange question,
Pylontech does not make inverters
are you TShegofatso?

Short answer is Yes.

Short answer is Yes.

Short answer is Yes.

Short answer is Yes.

Short answer is Yes.

ALL cells is from China.

I am glad you found a solution.
keep well

DC current will fry the thermostat contacts, as DC does not have a 0v potential point 50 times every second so the contacts will arc violently when the circuit is broken.

DC current will fry the thermostat contacts, as DC does not have a 0v potential point 50 times every second so the contacts will arc violently when the circuit is broken.

I highly doubt if a 12v power supply will charge the battery, you need a power supply more than the battery voltage of 14.3v, as these units almost always employ a PWM architecture or a simple buck converter topology, in either case you will need a voltage higher or equal to battery voltage.

Heat does rise over time but the element is at the bottom where the cold water enters and that gets heated and takes long to reach the hot outlet at the top. The thermostat reacts to the water that gets heated around the element.

Just to add some info. With a vertical geyser the thermostat/element is at the bottom of the tank. It will switch off with a lot more water at a much lower temp than the horizontal one which is in the middle of the geyser..
I do agree with @stefan44 with the times if the whole geyser was at the same temp. The contents temp will be made up of layers.
Only if water is circulated will you have the whole geyser at a certain temp like with a heat pump.
Google stratification.

Of course, you don't just lose heat from the geyser itself (that might be improved by insulation with a blanket), but a lot of heat is also lost through radiance from the pipes, all the way from the geyser to the hot water taps. If you have not already done so, you should apply lapping around the pipes, preferably up to the point where they enter the walls.
Also, as mentioned by @Scorp007 , you should really keep the water circulated before any accurate conclusions can be made regarding the efficiency of the two geysers.
As @stefan44 stated, the power consumption vs water temperature don't make sense - this is quite likely because of localised heating, with both the temperature sensor and thermostat placed close to the heating element. Again, circulation of the water through the geyser would be the only way to really get to an accurate evaluation.

to heat water from 30 degrees to 55 degrees with a 2.6kw element that is submerged (100% efficiency) will take 1H40 minutes.
to do the same with a 2.75kw element will take 1H35 minutes.
to heat water from 35 degrees to 55 degrees in 30 minutes will require a 8.7kW element
your tuya/geyserwise system is not accurate.

they use a lifepo4 battery,
I would connect a normal car 12v charger(non intelligent) to the solar input of the unit (18v max) just make sure of polarity, and use the internal PWM solar charger as it's setting is correct for the lifepo4 battery inside.

they use a lifepo4 battery,
I would connect a normal car 12v charger(non intelligent) to the solar input of the unit (18v max) just make sure of polarity, and use the internal PWM solar charger as it's setting is correct for the lifepo4 battery inside.

spotweld is the best option. the cells will rust further on the exposed scratched surface, the anti oxidation coating was removed.
I used to do the same, grind the spotweld leftovers off to make a smooth surface for future spotwelds, until I saw that the cells rust on the grinded areas and over time the rust spreads over the anode to form bumps under the cell wrapping.
I now salvage cells by grinding(dremel) the original spotwelds off between cells, trim the original spotweld to the desired shape, and spotweld nickel strips over the original spotweld.

spotweld is the best option. the cells will rust further on the exposed scratched surface, the anti oxidation coating was removed.
I used to do the same, grind the spotweld leftovers off to make a smooth surface for future spotwelds, until I saw that the cells rust on the grinded areas and over time the rust spreads over the anode to form bumps under the cell wrapping.
I now salvage cells by grinding(dremel) the original spotwelds off between cells, trim the original spotweld to the desired shape, and spotweld nickel strips over the original spotweld.

spotweld is the best option. the cells will rust further on the exposed scratched surface, the anti oxidation coating was removed.
I used to do the same, grind the spotweld leftovers off to make a smooth surface for future spotwelds, until I saw that the cells rust on the grinded areas and over time the rust spreads over the anode to form bumps under the cell wrapping.
I now salvage cells by grinding(dremel) the original spotwelds off between cells, trim the original spotweld to the desired shape, and spotweld nickel strips over the original spotweld.

Your multimeter should be on Voltage, and A.C

Which battery on your graph is the master battery? Master reports SoC to inverter, in most BMS communication protocols (especially with Kodak/Must/Mecer and many Chinese inverters), only the master battery’s SoC and voltage are used to determine when to end bulk and absorption phases. If the master battery is the one with the highest SoC or lowest internal resistance, it will reach absorption voltage first. The inverter sees this as the system being "full" and terminates absorption early, based on CV timeout or SoC. The other batteries, which haven't reached 100% or even full absorption voltage yet, are cut off early. Over time, this leads to increasing SoC drift,poor balancing capacity under-utilization and possibly faster degradation of the lower-charged batteries

When going to a multi rs solar inverter from the multiplus 2 it was the biggest change observed in my household- almost silence...
the multipus 2 is a Low volt low frequency inverter fan was noticeable when inverting high power and charging
the multi rs have a high voltage dc bus and high frequency architecture with 2 internal fans that is almost silent at full power
I do not know if it it true for all brands of HV inverters, but in my case it sure is.

Good Morning,

I dont have a better way of managing 4 12v series connected batteries, I can just share my setup..
I have a Multi RS inverter with 4 x 200AH Freedom won 12v batteries connected in serries without a balancer (purchase date was 2018) and with a DIY lifepo4 consisting of 15 120ah cells and a single 90ah with them(making it a 90ah 51v battery, managed by a JK bms that is connected in parallel with the 200ah bank via busbars.
this is not a loadshedding backup system, this is 100% of grid.
my charge settings is as follows,
bulk - 54.7v
float - 54.6v
according to my cerbo and smart shunt data, yesterday my max soc was 85.2% 16h30. Yesterday my CBI astute app's timer again malfunctioned and the geyser was switched on at 18h00 and did not switch off at 19h00 and kept on until 23h00. this resulted in my system switching off at 1h06 this morning.
At least the water was hot enough not to start the gas geyser.
anyway keeping in mind that the batteries only achieved 85.2% soc i still managed to pull 284.8Ah from the batteries, the deepest discharge was 331AH
I have never used a balancer on them, when I got them I connected all four in parallel and charged them upto 14.2v (with a bench ps) for a day of two and that was the only balancing ever.
I periodically (probably once a month) I check individual voltages wit a DMM, and they have always been within 0.01v from each other.