hilt_ctn

Damn right ! The plan is to automate this via Home Assistant. I'm trying to ascertain where that happy place is i.e increase SOC limit so that the battery levels daily ( like it does in the summer months ), or have Home Assistant run a daily task to look at the battery charge history over the last say 3 or 4 days, and if it hasn't hit 100% in that time ( which is when my battery levels ), a switch is flipped and the battery charges to 100% to initiate levelling I'm in that position where I have more than enough sun in the summer months, but not in enough in winter. So trying to optimise as best possible in the darker months. I can't save every watt. But if an automation can help, why not !

Do you any of y'all make an active attempt to level your cells periodically ? Sunsynk 5kW SolarMD 14.3kWh In the quest to give Eskom as little as possible ( i.e. be as efficient as possible ), in the darker months I set the minimum battery charge state to a percentage where I think it will reach 100% charge by the end of the day. I do this to give the battery a chance to top level and appease the almighty BMS so that it spits out accurate values. Sometimes it doesn't reach 100% due to general household usage, cloud cover etc. Now I only change those timer settings 2 or 3 times a year. I'm not constantly fiddling. So I'm just curious. Do you deliberately charge up to 100% once or twice a week in the darker months to give your battery a chance to level the cells ? Or do you just set your timer to a higher battery charge state percentage so that the cell levelling is done pretty much as a background task ?

Came across this today - Home Assistant Glow

Two of those numbers are likely the upgrade codes for you meter. You need to input all three sets to a) upgrade your meter and b) add your units

See below

I had a similar problem with Pi3B's and Pi Zero's. After months of trying everything I could find on the net with regard to Pi settings ( nothing worked ), the problem turned out to be a router setting. By default, my Asus router came with Airtime Fairness enabled. Once disabled, the issue was no more. The Pi's haven't dropped since

Not entirely sure how much help it's going to be. I'm still waiting almost a year for my docs which to my mind is a pathetic effort. Submitting seems easy. Getting them to do their bit, not so much But watch how fast they move if I don't pay my rates

Just curious. What is the splash-proof connector for ?

Depends on the need. Those aren't PWM capable. So they're either on or off. To be fair, most ( but not all ) PWM fans don't turn off completely either. Even when set to off in HA, they "idle" at around 20%.

For a standalone installation ( i.e. no HA reliance ), you can certainly use a dallas temp sensor to do the reading. Some random googling: This isn't using ESPhome or actioning PWM, but only to point out that it can be done. This is a someone who has created some code and left a place holder for a dallas. His needs are a bit more complex than what's required here. Again though, just to show it can be done For me it would have been moot as HA already has a sensor I could work with that's accurate i.e. the inverter temp I ended up using 3x 80mm Cooler Master Sickleflow fans as affordable 92mm PWM fans seem to be like Hen's teeth !

Getting there. PWM control works a treat

Hi all I'm going to build my fan tray this week. A quick question. I'd like to use jumper cables like these to connect 3x fans to a PSU. The fans are rated max 0.18A. Insert the male ends of the cable into the 4-pin fan connector. Lop off the female side of the cable and terminate it into a chocolate block / wago which in turn connects to the PSU and an ESP32 for PWM ( taking a ground from the PSU ) Each fan gets it's own cable into the chocolate block / wago ( aka overkill ! ) I have set up a single fan like this and run at 90% using PWM for a good few hours. The cable isn't even room temp warm i.e. it's colder. So it seems fine. I ask only because I know that jumper quality is variable at best ( this particular cable has 8-strands ) and I loathe to cut off the fan PWM connector and use a thicker cable if I don't have do. But if I'm going to cut, it might as well be now. I don't want to revisit this in a few months with melted cables TIA

https://kellerza.github.io/sunsynk/guide/wiring has a 2-pin example

What he said I have a 5kW Sunsynk. When Eskom is on and I turn on say 7kW worth of devices, +/- 5kW will come out of the battery / solar array via the Sunsynk, and 2kW from Eskom If Eskom is off however, and the Mrs. turns on the kettle, the coffee machine and microwave all at once, the inverter will trip. This has happened and some education was required. In short, you can do around 2 high draw devices at once like kettle and coffee machine. But wait for kettle to finish up before turning on the micro

Right you are sir. TuyaLocal is the one you want. LocalTuya sucks by all accounts Once you have the devices in HA, use HA's automations to do the scheduling. I suggest letting HA handle all the scheduling as a single source of control. Then use your phone app to turn on or off ad hoc only

I'm using an ESP32 with RS485 to TTL board and code from Slipx to enable read/write to the inverter from within HA. A Raspberry Pi with any of KellerZA's plugin options works nice too

Lots to unpack here The amount of sensors varies per device and I believe by hardware revision as well. So your mileage will vary for sure CBI switches regardless of model run out 100% of the Cloud. Nothing is local :( So the ability to switch on or off, view live status or history is all done on the other end of the internets ! For full local control, Tuya Local is what you're after,not Local Tuya. You've largely done the tricky bits already ( the dev account ). The rest should be a breeze The only hassle I had was that sometimes after a load shed, HA couldn't see my geyser ( Smart Controller ) or the pool devices ( Smart Isolator ) and their respective entities. So two extra steps I add to my automations is to "Reload config entry" for the geyser/pool device, wait 30 seconds for that to happen, then turn on

I had a similar problem with Pi's going offline at random. Some days they hung on fine, other days they didn't. Turned out they disliked the Airtime Fairness setting on my Asus router which for my particular model was enabled by default. Turning it off solved the problem. It makes little difference in a general home environment and no difference for smart products ( for the latter I'm speaking to performance ) . So if you have the option to disable it, give it go

Thank you sir ! Your work is awesome as always. And as always, thank you for sharing it

Hi Slipx Where is the AC temperature value gleaned from ? I'm using your ESP code for the inverter itself ( version : around July 2023 ). I see DC radiator and transformer temps only. I had look at your more current code, but didn't see an AC temp ? *edit* I found this post and enabled the AC temp option in the graph on the Sunsynk web page. It seems to match DC Radiator temp degree for degree ? I watched them both drop as the geyser finished up pounding the inverter and battery and they seem to be 100% in sync

Hi all For some learning. I have a spare ESP32 kicking around and was thinking about adding a 18B20 temperature sensor to keep an eye on a fish tank temperature. That way if the heater ever packs up ( who checks the heater ?! ), I'll get an alert on a Home Assistant dashboard blah blah. The ESP would be powered by an AC adapter Here's the question. What's to stop a ( unlikely ) 230v spike running through the AC adapter, the ESP and the sensor, turning the water live for a millisecond and all the fish to sushi before the distribution board breaker drops ? Or is everything such low voltage in the ESP system, everything between it and the water would fry first, posing no danger to the little swimmers Just curious

I had this issue with several Pi's on my network. I tried every trick I could find online, particularly around the power saving / management...nothing worked. So I turned my attention to the router, an ASUS in this case. I made a number of changes. Set the channel bandwidths of the respective frequencies instead of leaving them on auto ( router default ) Set the control channels instead of leaving them on auto ( router default ) But what ultimately fixed the problem was turning off the Airtime Fairness setting...another on by default setting. The Pi's have been rock solid since. The 3B+ can penetrate two walls on 2.4Ghz without issue