GreenFields

I'd re-phrase this as: They implemented this change of settings in the firmware deliberately in order to spare their customers some potential problems with their meters. However, if a customer prefers not to take their new settings, they can revert it back to a previous firmware that allowed free choice of the setting.

Respectfully disagree on one or two points, open to correction. As was pointed out, Sunsynk and Deye have the same hardware and functions, so the improved software is not necessarily indicative of greater savings. Also, why would a greater pass-through current lead to greater savings? The greater pass-through is what allows you to use more GRID POWER on your essential loads, which is great if you need it, but where is the saving? It just sounds like "maximum savings" is a catch-all phrase to say why bigger is better, without analysing the user's needs and situation.

I get your frustration, but the guy writing the article is probably just an ordinary journalist without a technical qualification, just copying and pasting the info from Eskom. Anyway, the 50kVA spec cannot be referring to panel output, because panels only produce DC-current. The 50kVA apparent power rating only makes sense in the context of Alternating Current, so it can only mean the inverter's AC output.

Well, let's see what the user @haudevbe has to say about using Artificial Intelligence on solar forums. Is it helpful or not?

If you're planning to take the 6kW Deye, then I'd ask to be re-quoted on a different set of panels that takes into account the higher MPPT input capacity of 18A+18A. The 4.4kW should be okay most of the time, but if you want more capacity for darker days, Winter, etc., then you should think of going higher. Except with this particular type of 550W panel (probably approx 49Voc, 13.5A Imp), you can't increase the length of the series string any further to increase the output, and you'd have to go to MPPT input no 2, and with that comes more cost for protection, junction box, etc. The 550W panel might be well-matched to the 13A current input of the 5kW inverter, but with the 6kW I'd be on the lookout rather for a 16-17A panel, maybe a 600W or a bi-facial panel. Don't have a specific panel in mind right now, don't know what's currently available, just suggesting you look around a bit more. Edit: To which I would add, a recent forum post was about which is the best panel for 2025. That begs the question, what will be the latest and greatest inverter folks will be buying this year.

I've got the Deye as well that I can set to 0W, and I'd feel sour about the manufacturer wanting to permanently over-ride it, because not all installations are the same. Since I'm connected for grid export, and have a two-way meter, I don't care about the zero-export trickle because I'll never trip the meter that way. When I'm running on solar or battery, my purchasing power is 0, but if I were forced to purchase a steady 100W power in that same period, I mean it's small, but it would really irritate me.

Would it not be as simple as to connect those loads onto the grid ports? No grid, no power.

Slightly off-topic, sorry. Just reading the manual. Also have a question to someone who has the Lynks. It seems to be better on all technical specs, except on the System Control screen. It seems like it only has 4 Time-of-Use slots. Is this correct? Does it show more time slots if you scroll down? My concern is just, if we are heading towards Eskom-dictated Time-of-Use, then more slots are better. That is to say, considering that there's the morning off-peak, then Standard, then Peak slots, and then again Standard daytime, followed by the evening peak, then Standard, and then off-peak slots, you almost want to have more options available to best economically control the battery discharge and charging from Grid. Sometimes even having 6 feels like it's not enough, and not having a calendar to set different weekend & public holiday profiles is also a pain.

Koenntest Du gleichzeitig Dein Modell-Nr nennen? 1P oder 3P? Und bestaetigen, ob Du dein Netzbetreiber, also Aequivalent zu Eskom am Gen-Port hast?

If the Voltages are equal, then the sum of the current of the two strings in parallel will be fed into the MPPT. The link below has some thoughts on the Axpert King's MPPT input. Would it be an option to get a new dual-MPPT inverter? Something like the Luxpower SNA5000, or a hybrid inverter like a Deye or Solis 5kW? You could keep your existing string for the first MPPT, and add 5 or 6 of the 565W panels on MPPT2, and you would still be below the inverter's 6000W PV power limit (or greater depending on inverter), and it wouldn't even be considered over-panelling. Considering that you're aiming to add a 2nd Pylontech 5kWh battery, this could be a better balance between configuration of panels, MPPT power generation, and storage.

Hey Andy. I'm sure there are experienced installers around here that would know the answers to your questions. But what exactly is your problem? Are you referring to a specific issue like the Neutral-Earth bond? Or are you uncertain right from the start because of having an off-grid situation that is unusual for your countrymen? Do you have the Deye user manual with you that you can follow? What parts of it are creating questions for you? Wenn's hilft, Dich besser auszudruecken, kannst Du mich gerne direkt auf Deutsch anschreiben, aber ich bin kein Experte, auch nur ein User.

Wouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth. Just take the generator. Is this an off-grid inverter installation, or are you catering for a complete and utter collapse of Eskom? If so, then yes, by all means, hook up the generator and install additional panels, for the gloomy Cape weather. But what about if you are connected to the grid? Personal 2c worth, to each his own. In that case I'd say simply... do nothing. Considering the amount of battery power you have relative to your daily needs - between 1.7 to 2.5 times your daily consumption - I'd just run down to a 50% battery reserve for loadshedding, and otherwise once you reach that 50%, switch to grid. I just don't think the other options are worth it relatively speaking. Instead of running the generator at say R10 per kWh, you could just as well wait for loadshedding to be over and charge batteries from the grid. Also, you've already got enough panels connected to cater for normal sunny days and even partly cloudy days most of the time. The extra 2 panels, if it's 1kW of nameplate capacity you're adding, then during the worst weather they'd be generating maybe 20-30% of what they are rated for, and other parts of the year they'd be superfluous to your needs. For maybe, say 30 really miserable days a year that would be just 1-2 extra kWh roughly available on the bad days. Call it R100-R200 return on investment per year, very roughly thumbsucked. Again, may as well just ensure you keep some reserve battery capacity, and run and charge from grid around the loadshedding slots, than incur the cost of the panels for a meagre additional benefit.

Agreed, 60s is not good for real-time measurements or troubleshooting compared to other devices and assistants, but it's what you can get for free. Where I feel it makes a difference, is that it's no longer worth it to get up and walk to the inverter, as I would do if I had to wait for 5 minutes.

Send an email to Deye's support line in China, with your inverter number and Solarman dongle number. Request them to set the data upload interval to 60 seconds. E-mail: [email protected] There might be a better way to set it yourself, but they sorted it out for me like this.

For a flat plate collector or hdpe piping you'd still need a tank of some kind to store the heated water, and it won't help in the early morning before sunrise unless the tank is well-insulated to keep water warm through the night. If you're using fireplaces for heat anyway, why not look at a Rocket wood-fired water heater (donkey)?

Personal 2c' worth. For older mechanical meters, it is possible to run them backwards if you run the electricity in reverse. This could be if you have for example a solar power inverter installed inside an old house, and if you then send power back out towards the grid. The old meter spins backwards and power is counted down. I'm assuming that this is happening to one or more of the electrical sub-meters for example in a block of flats you bought. The starting point might be to check if any of the units have a solar installation. If not, it might be worth checking what other power source they could have installed. I'd suggest to call out an electrician; it might be that the wiring to the meter is installed incorrectly. At the same time, it could be an option to install a prepaid sub-meter and remove the old meters entirely. The billing then happens via a third-party, and it's not so easy to run power in reverse by accident. The municipality will only care about the main municipal meter that feeds power to the property.

My guess is it's okay. The 41.4V is quoted under STC - Standardized test conditions with 1000W/m^2 irradiation. The specs do not display the Voltage at a lower level of irradiation like NOCT, or early morning, but it will almost certainly be lower than 41.4V. By all means check the wiring, but this is not necessarily looking like a problem.

I'd be careful and rather not take 3. Voc=50.92V per panel, and Max Solar input Voltage on the inverter is Vdc=145V. You would be likely to damage the MPPT charge controller before long. I'd say rather stick to two panels in series.

By now I don't think these are the flavour of the day anymore, rather leaning towards tried and tested. Suggest to search the forum and read through the threads related to these products. There might be other options around as well, but you probably won't go far wrong with these.

What type of premises are we talking about here? The typical household has a 60A single-phase supply, ie. around 14kW power output before the mains switch trips. And uses around 1000kWh per month. Give or take. From that perspective I reckon most homes should be able to go off-grid with 12-15kW inverter power, 15-20kW of panels, 20-30kWh of batteries, some efficient appliances and water heating equipment, and just a little bit of intelligent power management.

I don't see the logical link, though. (As always I'm open to correction by anyone who knows better). Whatever the speed is of the Maximum Power Point Tracker (MPPT) algorithm and processor on any given device, for me it doesn't seem linked to whether it is built into either a hybrid inverter, off-grid inverter, or standalone MPPT. Could you find for argument's sake that hybrid inverter A (Sunsynk/Deye) has a different tracking than hybrid inverter B (Goodwe) or C (Solis), etc.etc. and that maybe one of them performs better under the conditions of rapidly changing loads to use more PV? Does it necessarily follow that off-grid inverter A (Axpert/Kodak), or B (Growatt) or C (Luxpower), etc etc. will have superior performance in terms of tracking the load level, and return to PV sooner? Would it make a difference if one would use an energy meter instead of a CT coil to give feedback to the inverter? Don't have any answers, just thinking out loud and hoping someone else knows.

Just a sanity check. What type of panels do you have connected to that 5kW Sunsynk inverter? To have 10 panels on only 1 MPPT sounds like a lot, but may be not if it's smaller-output panels. What readings for Watts and Volts are you seeing on the screen for MPPT1?

Just a layman's 2c worth. Agree with @Demo Not a trolley inverter or a plug-in-the-wall, and not a modified-sine-wave inverter, not an AGM battery or even rather not a drop-in Lithium alternative. Best a professionally installed good brand name system, with CoC, with BMS comms between inverter and battery, and a remote monitoring assistant. Maybe with some redundancy like 2x Pylontech USC2000 batteries instead of a single 5kWh battery, with a Victron MultiPlus-II GX - 48/3000/35-32. Again, not professional advice, just some thoughts you could discuss with an installer. Might surely be other better systems you could also consider.

As said by @Kalahari Meerkat , your system is a bit problematic. Normally the grid-tied string inverter would be connected to the AUX/Gen port and controlled as a micro-inverter. In this case you're using that port for your generator. I'd suggest to re-position the connection of your grid-tied inverter to somewhere between the CT coil and your grid meter. That way you could treat it as part of the grid from the point of view of your Deye inverter. The Zero-Export to CT function should then prevent you importing power from your grid-tie inverter to the Deye inverter; it will rather export to the outside grid past the meter. Together with that, you could set up a Time-of-Use schedule that allows a Grid Charge during the daytime, where "Grid" would then in actual fact be coming from your grid-tie, but not exclusively. Alternatively, why not transfer your solar panels to the Deye inverter, and just ditch the grid-tie inverter? Mine is gathering dust, it is simply obsolete in this setup.

Okay, so your best bet with these panels and inverter, if it's a choice between just these options, and if it's the typical Voc=50V-odd, then take 8x550W, but connect them all in series, ie. 8s, not 4s2p. It begs the question of whether you could do better with a different panel altogether, that has a higher Imp closer to 16-17A, so you could connect 5000W of panels more easily. Right now the Voltage is your limiting factor in a series string, and the current if you're thinking to go parallel.