GreenFields

In South African terms, that's something like Stage 8 loadshedding or worse, which is tough, but the inverter will make a massive difference. It's going to be tricky to find one timer setting that works for all days of the week but you'll figure something out with experience. The other thing is that there's an app for push notifications of changes in the loadshedding slots. In South Africa one of the more popular loadshedding schedule apps is called "Eskom Se Push." Maybe they could extend into your country, or someone could come up with something similar that is tailored to your situation. Something like "Pushkin se Push"

Honestly in this type of scenario I wouldn't even use the timer. Just turn it off, then the system will run as a normal UPS. If you are not generating solar power to store in the batteries, if your only source of power is the grid itself, there is really no point to keep cycling the battery when the grid is available. That just wastes energy and uses up your battery cycles unnecessarily. You want to keep the energy on-hand for when the grid goes down, so just put your essential devices on the backup load port, and operate in Zero Export to Load mode. When the grid is on, the pass-through limit is the maximum that can be supplied to the backup loads, and when the grid goes down, the inverter's rated power is the maximum power that can be supplied from battery. Also, if you keep it in UPS mode without the timer, you don't need to think about setting a time slot when to charge from grid, it will simply re-charge automatically once the grid returns. I would suggest to limit the charge rate to maybe 40A-50A so you don't contribute to overloading the grid once power is restored.

First point, your inverter can be set up to do almost anything you'd need, so no need to think you made a mistake. Just looks like some info has gone lost in communication, or your needs and knowledge not fully understood. But I don't think that in principle your situation is truly unique. Second point, it's noted that you already understand the importance of placing the CT coils correctly, you can follow the manual, you know how to set up the 3 x 3-phase inverters in parallel, with incoming grid power onto the grid port of the inverters. Third point, you NEVER want to export any power to your grid, so you will NOT select the "Selling First" work mode, and you will NEVER tick either of the "Solar Sell" boxes. If you are very determined on this requirement, you should set the "Zero Export Power" function to a reasonably high value. The manual suggests 20-100W for normal operation, but if your utility is extremely strict, you should try the highest value or higher if needs be. This is the minimum amount of Watts you will always draw from the grid, thereby reducing the chance that a fluctuating power demand/supply balance could send a small burst of power back to the grid. Fourth point I don't fully understand, is whether your intention is to back up the entire house and distillery by the battery, or just one or the other? Basically, is your grid stable, or are you worried about your national grid failing in the middle of a heating/brewing process? Is it okay if the distillery is considered a non-essential load that shuts down during a power outage, so that you only supply your house with power? I think you are putting just the house on the backup load port, and the distillery on the non-essential grid output, but I'm not sure. If this is correct, you should use the "Zero Export to CT" function. In the event of a power outage, you do not need a mechanical switch. The Load Port remains automatically backed up by battery, and can use solar power as first option when available. The question that remains - and here's a pep talk for you to do a bit more reading - is how precisely you want to control the usage of solar and battery power to supply the loads. If you do nothing else, your inverter will run as a UPS, basically keeping the batteries charged, using solar power, then utility, and then battery backup. You need to read more on the Time-of-Use function, and then if you have any more detailed questions from that, feel free.

As above, panel specs and MPPT specs to be confirmed. But I think another avenue to investigate is to transfer your 4x450W panels onto the Hoymiles micro-inverter on the AUX input. Then get 4 more of your exact 550W panels, such that you connect two strings of 6 of them onto MPPT1 and MPPT2, either both to the East, which would be easier to connect, or else transfer two of the panels to the West.. That's just taken from a quick search on the Voltage and current specs for the inverter, as well as for some 450W panels. Bottom line, I think you'll find the input current of 4x11.5A to be a motivation to rather use smaller panels on the Hoymiles. Whether it's a good idea to go East/West depends on when you mostly run your loads, but in general spreading power generation through the day is sensible. eg. Battery recharge in the morning, and Geyser in the afternoon makes sense to produce hot water just shortly before evening sets in. Also spreads risk of losing generation through cloud cover throughout the day. And it means you are less likely to see a time when your total generation from MPPT1 and MPPT2 exceeds 5000W at once, since if you don't have batteries to charge at that time, the output will be cut to just the rated 5000W anyway.

No, that's not likely. The 6000W max power on a 120A current, indicates it's rather the current through the battery cable at around 50V. The panel current, if you consider 6000W Power, say just roughly approximated at 400V , that's more in line with around 15A input current of the panels to the MPPT.

My humble 2c worth. Everything at own risk, for you to check, open to other opinions. The missing info here is your max PV input current. Please double check whether your inverter is the one in the link below. https://www.lightmarket.co.za/products/48v-8kva-6000w-120a-mppt-wifi-compatible-parallel-hybrid-solar-inverter-fs-i008 It gives a value of 20A. If this is correct, basically you seem safe; it should work technically, if 7x650W=4550W are all you ever want to connect and if your panel installation is suited to bifacial panels, which this looks like it happens to be. Which is to say, ideally you want it mounted on some type of structure in an environment that gives reflection onto the back of the panel for optimum power generation. Or you may be disappointed with the real-world output. For a normal rooftop installation, maybe consider a Canadian Solar 600W panel. Firstly it allows to match the 6000W maximum PV input more precisely with 10 panels. The 17A Imp and 41.2 Voc should also be fine. Okay, I see the 650W Fivestar panel is available at a better price than the Canadian, but if you only use the front face in practice, you might be buying effectively a 500W panel. Number just made up for illustration (edit: but the bifacial panel advertises up to 30% more power than a conventional panel, which suggests 500W power off the front face out of 650W total rated power is not a bad guesstimate, though they don't say it straight like that). Your choice what you want.

The peak power is 50A x 230V = 11500W. I think that's about as precise as you need to be for this purpose.

Yes, it's 50 Amps. So around 11.5kW per phase.

For info, extract below from the SARS comprehensive guide for tax returns, Pg97, on rebates for solar panels. For those looking to claim a rebate. Maybe of interest also for those looking to install the maximum number of panels for export. IT-AE-36-G05 - Comprehensive Guide to the ITR12 Income Tax Return for Individuals - External Guide (sars.gov.za) Effective Date: 24 June 2024 8.2 SOLAR ENERGY TAX CREDIT a) Government introduced a rooftop solar tax incentive for individuals who invest in solar photovoltaic (PV) panels. • The tax credit will only apply to new and unused solar PV panels acquired and brought into use for the first time during the 2024 year of assessment (i.e. 1 Mar 2023 - 29 Feb 2024) and that have a minimum generation capacity of not less than 275W each. The solar PV panels must form part of a system connected to the distribution board of a residence that is mainly (i.e. more than 50%) used by the individual for domestic purposes and an electrical certificate of compliance must have been issued for that residential property (i.t.o. the Electrical Installation Regulations, 2009) after the solar PV panels were installed. • The solar energy tax credit applies to the 2024 YOA only and the amount allowed as a deduction will be 25% of the cost of the above solar PV panels up to a maximum of R15 000. • Note: batteries, inverters, fittings or diesel generators, installation costs and portable panels do not qualify. b) Complete the following fields on the return: • ‘How many new and unused solar panel(s) were installed?’ (maximum value allowed is 99) • ‘Do you confirm that new and unused solar panel(s) were installed with a minimum generation capacity of more than 275 Watts each?’ – (Select Y or N) • ‘Do you confirm that the solar panel(s) were connected to the distribution board of a resident that is mainly (more than 50%) used by you for domestic purposes?’ – (Select Y or N) • ‘Do you confirm that you received an electrical certificate of compliance issued in terms of Electrical Installation Regulations, 2009, pertaining to this installation?’ – (Select Y or N) • ‘Total cost incurred for solar panel(s)’ – source code 4056 c) Examples of supporting documents required: • A VAT invoice that indicates the cost of the solar PV panels separately from other items that do not qualify. • Proof of payment. • Electrical certificate of compliance.24 June 2024

I think the problem is that the Sunsynk is intelligent enough to control solar power export and battery power export to the grid and non-essential loads, whilst I think your immersun is always considering exported power as solar power. I can't think of anything that's not a makeshift solution, but here are some thoughts, to be cross-checked. Firstly, if you upgrade to a Sunsynk inverter, my experience is that it makes a lot of your other equipment redundant, ie. just using this all-in-one hybrid can be the simplest solution. Subject to full understanding your total list of equipment. Which model is it? If it's a 8kW or bigger Sunsynk Hybrid, maybe just to route all your 8kW of panels into the MPPT inputs of the Sunsynk inverter, and you'll have the micro-inverter and the battery inverter spare to adorn your garage shelves. If you have something smaller like a 5kW Sunsynk or 3.6kW, then transfer as much as possible of the PV panels to the Sunsynk's MPPT inputs, and keep the balance on the microinverter on the AUX/Smart input. That's more efficient when storing DC power to the battery, than to convert AC from the micro-inverter to DC and then back again. Make sure the immersun is not on the load port, but on the grid port, and put household loads onto the Load port. And if you really want to use "Zero Export to CT" mode with solar sell, then do also set up the Time of Use screen to set the battery power to zero during the daytime when you'd be exporting solar power. I'd move the CT coil of the Immersun to the house-side, and the CT coil of the Sunsynk to the grid side to align the usage meter readings of the Sunsynk with the utility meter. Another option is to put all the household loads onto the load port of the Sunsynk, then run in "Zero Export to Load" mode with Solar Sell (using Deye terminology). If the pass-through current of the inverter is sufficient for your house. That will eliminate the risk of using the battery to supply the heater on the export-side. However it will create a discrepancy between your utility meter's export readings versus the Sunsynk's measurements.

Would it be a big deal to transfer the 8 existing 540W panels onto one string on MPPT1, and put all the 6 new panels in series on MPPT2? In the end the difference is small, but it could add up to just over 100kWh per year.

Could you confirm the PV Voltage on the panels while charging, both before, during and after you add an additional load? Just wondering out loud whether your 18x550W panels could be installed 9 in series per MPPT, and what impact it could have at lower morning temps and lower power levels, like while ramping up charging. Again, all just speculation.

Just my take: If Hubble batteries are being marketed as being compatible with Deye, then that must include everything in the box, and the SolarMan dongle is part and parcel of the Deye inverter package. Maybe a grey area, and I'm no legal expert, but my personal sense of fairness from a customer perspective says it's misleading to advertise compatibility with the inverter, but then not honour the warranty because of the included dongle.

It could be that your installer set the battery charge amps to 60-65A in order to comply with this NRS restriction of limiting the charging power from Grid to 25% of NMD. He would have to confirm, though, I'm just speculating.

It could even be an option to use just a single smallish-size panel, or 100-250W panel, and combine it with a PV Voltage booster, such as the type from Microcare here Microcare SVB350 Single-Phase Solar Voltage Booster – Sustainable.co.za. If that could work, it would make for a smaller-size trolley or test rig, and I mean if you go even smaller like with a 50W panel, you could almost hang it in the window. I do like the thought though of testing with actual solar panels even just to demonstrate more vividly to the customer that it works.

Haven't looked at the diagram, but this inverter can do all of the above, depending on settings selected. Using grid to run any loads and charge batteries, or use solar power for the house or to charge batteries, and sell power into the grid, both from solar panels directly, and from battery storage. Question is what do you want it to do, and what are you allowed to do?

Don't add 3 or 4 more panels. The inverter's maximum PV input is 6500W. You'd be able to get away with adding 1 more per string, but you won't be getting much bang for your buck since you're already over 5000W. A bit more power in Winter, but in summer your panels will mostly be idle considering the amount of battery installed versus the panel power. Unless you can shift a lot more loads to the day and add more battery power to charge during the day as well. Maybe just do a sanity check that there's no shading on the panels, but if not, as above, best is to wait until Spring and Summer to get a better feeling for what your system is capable of.

One could add, there's a +/-3% tolerance on the Isc and Voc values for that panel. Also, the Isc and Voc values are based on STC, but there's also a chance it could be increased at higher levels of irradiance during cloud edge. Basically you'd be skating on thin ice, and you might be okay for a long time, until one day maybe the heavens align against you, and you exceed safe values. If you're interested in 10 panels per MPPT, maybe rather consider 2 strings of 5 in parallel, or the simplest would be to just stick to 8 in series per MPPT. On a lighter note, tomorrow is the solstice, just hang in there, there's brighter days to come.

Maybe check whether the burning smell is from something coming into contact with that hot coil. For example, your SOC cable seems to be touching or moving very close to it. If so, try to keep it out of the way, like maybe fixing it with using cable ties.

Can we start with a description of how much hot water you use and when? If you're using 25-30kWh per day on the geyser, even before the solar, that suggests that you are emptying the geyser out and re-heating it about 5 times per day. Just speculating, it could be for example for 5 people each taking a full bath or long shower during the day, and most likely when the sun isn't up, and a usage pattern like that could explain why solar water heating (any type) might not be giving you the savings you were expecting. Again, just speculation. Beyond that, could you confirm the amount of solar panels you've got connected, what the timer settings are for turning the geyser on and off, and how this corresponds to the inverter's operating settings, work mode settings. Other than that, can you confirm whether maybe your inverter's work mode settings are set up for solar export to the grid, and whether a pre-paid (??) meter is registering your exportation as consumption. Maybe post pics of the inverter screens. I'm assuming your installer has put the CT coil in correctly, but should be checked anyway.

Not 10. You'd be at very high risk of blowing the MPPT. Even 9 per side could be pushing it. Simplest is 8 of the same on the other solar input. If you really want the power of the 2 extra panels, then maybe consider 8 of a different panel type. Something like a 500W panel that produces power at a higher current like maybe around 12-13A.

I'm assuming you won't be setting up to export battery power to the grid, only solar. And that you've got a 60A main circuit breaker. If not, the values below will change. Simplest thumbsuck would be under the Battery Settings to set the battery charge current limit to around 65A. And you almost don't need to worry bout the export limit, since you've got only 2660W of panels connected, but it should be possible under the grid settings, to find a grid sell limit setting, which you could set to 3500W for in case you intend to add panels. In principle.

What batteries are you using and how many per inverter? It could be a limitation set by the battery's BMS.

Personally I'd keep the maintenance under control of the body corporate. Something maybe like designating roof sections as exclusive use areas and charging levies that cover the costs. Or else installing the solar panels exclusively by the body corporate, and selling power to the grid. But not leave it up to the individual owners to take responsibility for maintaining the common property.

Check if it's referring to the password on the label that's on the side of the dongle itself.