Gerrie

I don’t understand this limit draw of the smallest battery, Does this mean you can only draw 1.9KW Maximum from the whole bank or can you draw 1.9KW x 6 Batteries = 11.4KW Maximum from the bank.

Do you think there is a problem with only 5 x panels on a string. I am also planning a 8KW installation with 20 panels (VOC = 48.7V /450W/10.92A) It will be 5 x panels per string (389.6V)and the 8KW has 4MPPT’s so I was hoping to use all 4 x MPPT’s. Would this be ok or am I not seeing something.

Do anyone know where I can get solar mount roof brackets for the wider type roof sheets not the normal IBR?

You probably need to replace the entire fuse holder, You could try SIBA fuses in Commissioner street Johannesburg.

Your reasoning makes sense, Also you need to consider if you were to use one full cycle of 5.5KWH and let’s say the primary cost is the battery (R26000) than you need to also add the secondary cost of charging the battery back up to 100% state of charge again. One full cycle of 5.5KW to charge with either Council (5.5KW x R2.08/KWH) or PV (5.5KWH x PV cost/KWH x X) will have a secondary cost that need to be taken into consideration. Some form of payback calculation (X) need to be calculated into the cost of the PV panels and inverter over the lifetime of the system. If you oversize the PV array size with a lot your cost/KWH will go up as-well as payback will be longer. There is a big demand for that magic combination.

Yes the times, percentages and maximum watt can be set so that you don’t discharge batteries all the way. It’s better to leave some power in the battery in the event of load shedding. If you don’t get this setting right you might end up with a drained battery when load shedding starts.

Is your inverter fed from before or after the earth leakage? if it’s after the earth leakage it could be the reason why it’s tripping.

When it comes to solar you need to speak to system designers and installers the sales people will sell you the the stuff they need to clear from their shelves.

The Sunsynk has a tick box option to select if you want to push back power to non-essential loads. My inverter is set to always receive 10Watt from the council to avoid feedback and then the excess solar power go to non essential, however this is as long as grid power is available. When there is load shedding only essentials are powered. Another nice function is the timer functions where you can set grid charging to keep your battery for example at 70% SOC from 22h00 to 24h00 and lets say at 50% from 24h00 to 03h00. In other words to get maximum use out of your battery you can stagger its SOC usage with the timer function to last till the morning. I don’t know if the other inverters can do this.

You are lucky they came so quick to solve the problem, in Alberton where I stay oh boy🙈🤣🤣

Those brackets seem to do the trick, I might do something similar as the installation I’m planning will also have two batteries, I will still look at more options as I would also like some kind of top cover to close the top terminals and comms cable from accidental damage and small things that might fall into the spare ports.

The price is not to big of a deal if the quality and capacity output make up for it. I like pylontech a lot but it also becomes pricy when having to buy extra batteries to make up for capacity limitations.

How did he mount it in a cabinet or just floor standing?

Anybody using the BSL Lithium batteries. Would like to hear any thoughts on the battery that make it or break it. Does it communicate direct with Sunsynk without riot? Is it a 1C battery? What is support like? I only heard good things so far and would like other opinions.

Don’t do this unless you are a qualified electrician. I use to have a Axpert off-grid inverter with a permanent earth/neutral bonding point. You can test the current flow in that bonding point by disconnecting the link and connect a multi meter that acts as the bonding link the meter must have a mA a/c range, the multi meter will now act as the earth/bonding link and current will start flowing if you have circuit breakers that is feeding loads. Switch off all circuit breakers as well as inverter, connect multi meter and reading should be zero. Step 1 - With all breakers switched off in DB (Reading should be zero if not something is still on) Step 2 - Switch on supply to inverter (You might get small 1mA reading) Step 3 - Switch on Main breaker and check reading (mA reading might be slightly higher like 2mA) Step 4 - Switch on next breaker and check reading (carry on until all breakers are switched on, and keep checking reading.)The reading when all breakers is on will be the total leakage current. I digged up my notes when I tested my system and the reading ended up on 15.4mA which is not far of 22-24mA tripping current. Hope this makes sense

But it is a combiner box it combines the panels to the inverter 😂 My mistake the thread should probably be called a four string fuse box with surge protection.🙃

I had a earth leakage problem about two years ago and it was a Onesto tripping. I have three ownestos but only one normally tripped. I replaced it with a ABB and no tripping after that, what I found out on deeper investigation was that my house have a continuous leakage current on the neutral to earth of about 7 to 14 mA. This is problematic because the average earth leakage trips between 22 to 24mA. It would give you a tolerance of 22mA minus the continuous loss of about 14ma = 8mA play for other real faults or transients. When Load-shedding ends and transformer type loads in your house take power they spike a bit and there drops the earth leakage. If you could find out what your continuous leakage is it could give you more answers.

At first I thought it was single compartment, but it makes sense with the devider that still need to go in. I will give it a try as it does looks neat.

Are the clamps on the sink roof sheeting also a cab strut product? I like what looks like no drilling when using those clamps.

Information is king and digging a bit into lab test and reports can expose some of the pros and cons to help make informed decisions. If a product have the potential to become a liability whether it’s safety or even just disposal of its always good to know.

A solution to this problem might be to put a notice label on each battery, CAUTION “Keep sharp objects, dart boards and nail guns at least 3meters away from battery to avoid runaway temperature”😂

Thanks for the advice, I will look into the Voltex option as that makes sense, at this time it’s still just the planing stage, With my own system I did build my own combiner box it was for two strings though, it’s not the best looking thing but it was done with what I had lying around in the garage as the budget was too tight to allow new off the shelf stuff. This system though is for a customer and will have to be top notch.

Does the obo trunking have two compartments inside to separate AC and DC wires?

Unfortunately I took the photo while at the supplier today and did not look inside, I also agree about not using the dc switches. Do you think I could remove the dc switches and fit two extra sets of surge protection units so that each string has protection before going into the inverter? Or I was hoping to find a 4 string ready off the shelf unit.

Advise welcome I’m planning 4 strings to a 8KW Sunsynk. I am thinking of using this box to bring in 4 strings and out with 4 strings to the inverter. Would this box be sufficient or is there better options? Should I use two of these boxes? 4 x strings of 5 x 450W