Bloubul7

The best would be to open up the unit and get the specifications for the stock fans. By the sound of them they are high RPM and PVM controlled. You will have to replace them with fans with a similiar RPM rating rating to avoid the system picking up "fan stuck" errors.

Vessen is utilizing the Gen port for a Micro Inverter. This allows you to increase the solar capacity.

With a little bit of tinkering the Jura Z6 can actually be added to Home Assistant. 🤣 Hahaha, ek sal eerder niks se nie. Maar is darem nie een van "daai" bulle nie. Both Sonoff & Eachen switches work out of the box with Home Assistant. It does require a seperate integration to be installed via HACS, see link for tutorial. They can also be flashed if you want to. Well you can install a light switch without any wiring to a physical light and the use it as part of an automation to switch on/ off other modules (Sonoff Basic or Sonoff TH16) In various parts of my home I have replaced 1 gang switches with 3 gang switches. The 2 additional gangs are used to switch other light switches or modules. A simple example is that in the main bedroom I have a switch that triggers an automation to turn off all the lights in the house. One could easily do the same to trigger all outside lights. Yes a Mesh can become expensive. But for me the mesh system serves much more than just the home automation bits. Having a 200mb fibre connection, your wifi can easily become the bottleneck in a larger house (especially when streaming 4k Dolby Atmos movies). For me moving into a mesh network was fairly easy and didn't cost much extra due Asus supporting mesh systems on all new routers. Therefore it was as simple as just adding another router. Due to the above, I wouldn't change the way I have implemented my system. I have set up a Raspberry Pi with a RS485 expansion HAT. The Pi communicates to the Inverter over the RS485 via Modbus and then sends it via MQTT to my Home Assistant server.

Normally your lights don't run through the earth leakage. So the reason for the 2 neutral bars is to have all the neutrals that doesn't run through the EL on one bar and then everything that runs through the EL on the second bar.

Correct, There are no ways in which the Inverter can get more than 80A charging from PV due to the 4000w limit on the MPPT side

I guess you missed his question, the OP ask how many panels can he connect to the 2x 5kVa Axpert units. Also typically the Axperts are limited to 80a each solar charge to batteries

It depends on which model Axpert unit you have. The 5kVa units typically range between 4,000w and 4,500w. So in theory you could install 8kw to 9kw worth of PV panels combined for your 2 units. So could add another 8x 330w panels

It doubt it, but would suggest setting it back to 50Hz. Our grid runs at 50Hz

In short, normal builders customer service

Have you measured the voltage on any of circuits?

Why not look at the SunSynk inverter range? They offer excellent value for money along with great features.

Hahaha, likewise. It is a nice way to get new ideas to fall further down the rabbit hole. I'm at the point now where I ran out of ideas. The next one might be a proper coffee machine to make a strong cup of coffee when I wake up.

It all depends on what you want to achieve. Light switches - No need to flash with Tasmota. Can integrate directly with HA. For those places where you can't get a neutral to light switch you can have a look at the Eachen switches as well, they use the same Ewelink platform Normal On/ Off control of devices - No need to flash. Integrates directly with HA Complicated load control - For example controlling Geysers. Suggest to flash with Tasmota. The advantage of the Tasmota is the ability to set up "Rules" on the device itself which are stored in the ROM. This provides additional backup should your HA fail for some odd reason or the unit looses it's WiFi connection. For example, I have the following rules running on the TH16's controlling my geysers Switch off when the temperature exceeds 65C. Home assistant is set up to heat the Geysers to 60C, if HA fails to switch off the unit at 60 then I know the unit will switch off itself at 65 Keep the unit switched off when the temperature drops below 5C. This is just incase the unit looses connection to the temperature sensor Switch off when the MQTT connection to HA fails. This prevents the Geyser from heating if the Wifi connection drops or my HA fails. Some examples of items which I have currently automated/ controlling through HA 27 light switches. Majority of them runs on Sonoff switches, the down stairs switches runs on Eachen as it is a hassle to get a neutral through the concrete slab. 2x Geysers. Using Sonoff TH16 with DS18B20 temperature sensors, tasmota firmware and 40a relays 1x Pool Pump. Using Sonoff TH16. Automated to run only when excess Solar generation is available. 1x Fountain pump. Using Sonoff Basic, automated to run on a timer SunSynk Inverter. Inverter values are communicated to HA via MQTT Wifi Mesh System. Asus based Wifi Mesh, provides notifications when certain devices join/ drop off the network. 2x Home Theatre receivers. The one receiver is automated to automatically turn on the projector, turn off the downlights and turn on the LED light strips when switched on. Reverse when the receiver is turned off 1x Aircon. Using Sensibo as gateway. Automated to operated at different modes based on the target temperature. Will only turn on based on room temperature, time schedule and if we are at home Robotic Vacuum Cleaner. Garden Sprinkler System. Integrated with my Bhyve system. Watering schedules based on weather forecast. Garage Doors. Using Sonoff SV flashed with Tasmota. Can check if the doors are open or closed. Can also open/ close via the app All of the above are nicely integrated with the mobile App. I'm not using the HA cloud service, using port forwarding with integrated firewall in my router setup. Some other nice features which you can build into the automations: Limit/ reduce loads based on Load shedding status Check who is at home (based on wifi connections) Shopping List. Useful to add notes of items to buy, I'm thinking of mounting an old tablet in the kitchen to easily add items as the need arise.

Based on the criptic description I'm assuming that it is the Mecer 1200VA 720W inverters as they normally have a switch at the back to select either 10a or 20a charging. This would depent on the battery specification and cable sizing. Please advise which battery you are using and what cable size. I would however suggest to stick with the 10a charging if the inverter is purely used as load shedding backup.

I wasn't too impressed with Qwikswitch. The RF range is weak which requires the use of repeaters back to the bridge. The repeaters continously lost it's connection with the bridge (even at very short distances) requiring the repeaters to either be rebooted or paired again with the switch (a major hassle if you are controlling a geyser and having to get back into the roof to activate pairing mode).

Just a note on QwikSwitch, I initially used the QwikSwitch units for my Geyser controls but abandoned the whole setup due to the poor coverage of the RF. I would rather advise going the Sonoff/ Tasmota route which runs perfectly on Wifi. One benefits more by setting a proper Wifi mesh setup throughout your home than having 300 RF repeaters/ bridges.

Please give more details. Inverter type Battery configuration Solar panel configuration

How many batteries do you have connected? It could be that when the load increases the battery voltage drops below the "return to grid" level. Have you set up the battery settings accordingly to your battery specifications?

Drop the grid charging current to the minimium setting Change the charging priority setting to not allow charging from the grid

They are typical 12V 125W

Hi, That does sound on the low side. I have 12x 335w panels which are peaking just below 3500wh. It could that your Solar charger is running hot and thus degrading the performance. The King doesn't like 3 panels in series as this results in the MPTT running on the upper end of the voltage limits causing additional heat. Many on the forum would suggest rewiring your panels rather run in 2 panels in series

No, 6mm GP cable is rated at 45A for 220V. Delivery 45A at 24V is a whole different ball game

Sorry but I doubt the above extract is relevant. The above appears to be based on armoured cable in a 220v environment

Well done on a very neat system. I must agree these Sunsynk units are awesome. I recently upgraded from an Axpert King to a Sunsynk 8.8kw unit. On the Axpert the best efficiency I could get from the panels were 70% however with the Sunsynk my average efficiency has increased to 89% of the rated power. This is a massive increase and well worth the paying extra for the inverter