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Jatho last won the day on March 18

Jatho had the most liked content!

About Jatho

  • Birthday 06/10/1977

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    Cape Town

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  1. I think its more about assisting with exhausting the hot air out of the cabinet to make way for cooler air, I'll do some playing around with it in the summer months for now the cabinet is adequately cooled. I could probably just leave the fans on permanently but if its running as it has been at around 19 degrees its an unnecessary waste of power albeit low amounts, if I run it on some sort of smart control I recon they'd be on for around 20% of the year so its worth the effort, I'd like to streamline my consumption as much as possible.
  2. Hey guys Thanks for all of the input, Jaco actually gave me a call last night when he saw the post and suggested using the Venus GX I have to handle the temperature control, I should have put 2 & 2 together it has temperature sensors as well as relays
  3. Hey guys So I've been busy during lockdown installing my Victron system with the help of Jaco from Go-Solar and what a breath of fresh air it has been dealing with him he's super helpful and knowledgeable and always happy to offer advise. Anyhoo, I'm taking delivery of my Pylontech batteries tomorrow which are going into a 15U wall mount cabinet installed in my garage, in winter the temps will be mostly ideal but in the heart of the Cape summers the temperatures get up to around 39 degrees in my garage, not terrible but also not ideal so I want to integrate some smart cooling. I've configured a nodemcu with a relay and temp sensor which I'll mount inside the network cabinet and have setup an automation in home-assistant to switch the fans on when the ambient temperature is above 25 degrees so my question(s) which I suspect will draw a lot of varying opinion is the following..... 1. Is 25 degrees a good start range for the fans to kick in? I've got it set to switch off at 23 degrees although I think this is mostly a non event. 2. In terms of mounting fans, I know (think) ideally it would be best to mount some fans at bottom blowing in and then at the top sucking out but the fans I've got don't seem to have huge sucking power although they will make a difference I suspect, so really just looking for some input / advise from guys that have possibly done this type of thing. I'd prefer not to run them 24/7 they pull a lot of dust and need ongoing maintenance. Thanks in advance......
  4. @Tim where do you get these rates from? I checked on the Eskom site but can only seem to find old rates from 2011/12 14/15 etc... Could be that I'm looking in the wrong place. thanks.
  5. Thats me, the one and only thanks I gave Jaco a call earlier today to discuss requirements.
  6. Perfect thanks Jaco, I'd prefer to support someone on the forum. Could you please PM me your number and I'll give you a call tomorrow to discuss if that's OK?
  7. That's actually a pretty good idea, problem obviously is the lock down and I'd like to have this stuff ordered ASAP so I can get it at pre-moodies pricing
  8. Hi Guys Could I please ask for recommendations on reputable resellers, I've tried for months to get an inverter system installed but because of load shedding most installers were too busy and a lot just brushed me off, I've been messed around a lot so I'm just going to do this myself. I want to buy the inverter, batteries, charge controllers, cabling, fuses etc... possibly some panels as well but might put that off depending on the total system cost. I'm wanting to do this in the next few days so that I can get the equipment before the R/$ price increases are in full effect. I'm based in Cape Town so would prefer local supply but if not possible JHB is OK too. Leaning towards Goodwe or Victron inverter and most probably Pylontech batteries, I'm thinking of getting a 5kVA inverter. Electricity is single phase. There are a plethora of online resellers and a lot have multiple domain names for the same company so its quite overwhelming and also difficult to determine the good from the bad so would really appreciate some feedback / assistance. I'm fairly comfortable with electricity, DIY / handman stuff so I'm confident I'll be able to get the system 90% commissioned and can then just have an electrician connect it up to my DB board and split my loads. https://solaradvice.co.za/ https://www.inverter-warehouse.co.za/ https://www.solar-shop.co.za/ A typical days usage below, pool comes on between 10am to 3pm and is around 1000w, I have a gas stove, 2 geysers but will not put any of the heavy load stuff onto the inverter and will disable plugs for kettles, microwave, dishwasher, tumble dryer etc... during load shedding through my automation system. Think that's about everything. Thanks in advance....
  9. You could definitely do that but it's not going to change anything, push too many amps through the Sonoff and you'll burn it regardless, its dangerous using a Sonoff like this I really wouldn't recommend doing this there are better (safer) ways to control a geyser.
  10. Sorry for the late reply, I really need to look at my notification settings... So your calculations are correct, but I'd rather over spec the system as the costs are somewhat negligible in the bigger scheme of things and chances are when you realise how many other DC devices you have in your house that would be nice to have powered up during load shedding you'll quickly amass quite a nice draw on your battery backup system. To gibe you an idea my DC backup system started life as a backup to my routers (internet only) but soon I added my home automation as well as my NAS, these are both pretty power hungry and more than tripled my draw, luckily I had a pair of 100AH batteries laying around so upgraded the batteries. For your system I'd say go for the 35ah battery you quoted but if you think you'll add more devices double it, it will increase the lifespan considerably. Those step up modules are excellent for the money, I use one for my Intel NUC and a more expensive Meanwell for my Mikrotik although in hindsight I'd be happy to have used the former for my Mikrotik. While you're at it you may as well add a 12V to 5V USB converter, these too are very inexpensive and you'd then be able to power or charge 5V USB devices. EDIT, don't run 24V you're looking for a world of problems designing the system this way if the majority of your systems are 12V (which they will be), it is also a lot more expensive plus you'll need to add some sort of battery management system, use step up convertors they're inexpensive and are generally very well made.
  11. A bit late to this party but thought I'd give my input as I looked at this some time ago...... I wanted to control my geysers with a Sonoff but when you look at the wire terminals and AC tracks there is no ways this is a good idea regardless the AMP rating, I bought 2 solid state relays which I was going to use in conjunction with the Sonoff's but when these were both faulty on supply I called it a day, had they been functional I probably would have gone ahead with it but to me the stars were not aligning in my favor. Don't get me wrong, the Sonoff products are great and I use them quite extensively but I personally steer clear of using them in high current scenarios. If you're wanting to control a geyser I think its good / safe practice to get the Sonoff to switch an external relay which handles the heavy current and if you're wanting to measure power draw / consumption etc... probably makes sense to rather use CT clamps, there are easy enough and cheap enough options using something like a nodemcu board or similar. PS, the highest amperage I have running through a Sonoff Pow R2 is my pool pump which runs typically at 1000w / 5A. I think I've had this installed for over a year with no issues to date, all my other applications are relatively low draw such as lights etc...
  12. Thanks Mark, I'll have a look at my geyser would like to do the same. Are you only using Sonoff's? I've moved most of my sensor based stuff over to nodeMCU and using ESPhome on HA its a lot cheaper this way and more configurable, cost per nodeMCU with a sensor is around R150 plus they're quite low draw so can be powered off a single 81650 lithium battery, I actually use this configuration with a small 5V solar panel per device for my water level monitoring on my tanks total cost with solar, batteries, board, sensor still lower than a single Sonoff. If your aircon has a single power button which it almost certainly will then its a single code for on and off, Not the end of the world I guess. Thanks for the info on the rendering, will give me something to do when we go into lockdown
  13. Some nice stuff you've done Mark. How are you measuring your geyser temp? Also what did you use to do the rendering? Its been on my todo list for some time. Not sure what IR hub you have, I got the Broadlink RM Mini and it was pretty easy to integrate and controls anything IR, only down size is for things that share the same IR code like power buttons, HA doesn't always know if its on or off, its way better and easier when there are two different commands for on and off.
  14. you can change it under https://powerforum.co.za/settings/ and then change Display Name and ommit the @
  15. I started off on a Pi but then when I realised that I was going to move from a "test" environment to live and given that it controls most of my house I didn't want to risk running it on a Pi and SD card so I moved over to an Intel NUC I7 also running as a VM (Proxmox), big performance boost and solid hardware. I've automated backups to my Google drive so its a pretty reliable setup.
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