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Thank you for the great forum, Safe Driving over the weekend. Sincerely Jason

RikH

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RikH last won the day on March 28

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About RikH

  • Birthday 10/03/1966

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    Noord-Holland, The Netherlands

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  1. Wow, nice job! Any change of sharing that .doc?
  2. Now wait, you're mixing up 2 chemistries. We are talking about LiFePO4 cells here and the data you are talking about belong to NCM chemistry. We should compare apples.... Very much agreed with this. This is interesting indeed but only usable when you are able to control the charge voltage. @CCC is not but given the equipment he has best he can do is as I described above IMHO. And yes, now you're talking LFP voltages!
  3. Yes. Because 3,71V is too high. Connect them in parallel when they are in the state you described above and leave them connected for 12 hours or so. Ideally you should charge them up to 3,6V but not everyone has a charger that can do that. But don't worry, after this you'va done what you could and have given the cells a top balance. I guess that your charger didn't come to 14,4V because the BMS cut off right?
  4. Ok but there is also something as a startup voltage so I recommend still to go 2s4p. Don't forget the price of copper as well.
  5. Well yes but that is assuming he has 120 Ah cells but that is nowhere mentioned. (@CCC, what type of cells are we talking about in Ah?) Once the pack is balanced, yes that will take time, it has enough with this 30 mA balancers to keep it balanced. Of course this will never happen with a well balanced pack. What a coincidence, exactly what I advised you in my previous post . So this is good news, no need for another charger. Now just let it charge till it switches to float, after that measure individual cell voltages again. You will see it is getting better all the time. If not, you cells aren't that equal that a 30 mA balancer can bring it in balance. But let's see first how it turns out.
  6. That's a Daly. Here are the specs: As you can see it will start balancing at 3,5 Volt but your charger will never reach that. This implicates your battery will get out of balance more and more. How fast this will go is depending on the cells. If they are (almost) the same in terms of SoH it could take a while but sooner or later the imbalance will be to much. What happens is that 1 cell get up to 3,5V but the other are way too low. This will not cause damage by definition but you will have a much lower capacity from your battery. Think about a charger that you can adjust yourself and that will give 4 x 3,6 = 14,4 V. Then you can profit from your batteries the max.
  7. You cannot tell if you have a problem yet since you didnt charge the batteries fully. Charge it up to 3,6 maybe even 3,65 depending on battery. When you reach this voltage or a little before you BMS should be kicking in and start bleeding the cell that reaches this voltage. What BMS do you have?
  8. This is very interesting since I'm considering to install a second 5kW inverter so I have some questions if you don't mind: Which button are you referring to? And with webgui you mean what you see via snmp? Where and how? Did you overcome your laziness () and have you tried it?
  9. @Sass, how did you solve this in the end? (If you solved it.)
  10. It says it can charge 80 A. Your battery voltage is 24 V so 80 x 24 = 1920 W. Nothing is said about what you can connect on the PV side in terms of W or A so you have to now what type of panels you want to use first. Well what you can do is find out what the best config is. 9 Panels in parallel is a lot and will give you appr. 90 A which is a lot and a (too?) low voltage, not desirable. So go 2 in series when you have a lot of shading. Again, find out what panels you want to use. Then, try to figure out how you can put them on the roof so 1 serie gets shade as a whole (both panels) that serie won't do much but it will not drag the other series down. If you have 1 panel in a series of 2 shaded it will give you the same result as the series with 2 shaded panels. Hope you understand what I mean.
  11. What type do you have? Picture?
  12. Ok, so it is the same as in the Netherlands. When we push back more then we use we get a lower rate and also a tax cut so last year I have let a heater run in the garden in december to get my own usage up for that reason. This is how it works when government is interfering... Another thing, what is the value of the main fuse in your house, 25A? That is my situation and I simply push back 22A with my inverter. Nobody knows what my peak push back current is so why should you make it that expensive and complicated for yourself?
  13. Yes I understand what you mean but I should have been more clear when I said "when you can push back". I meant of course when you can push back as in countries where it is profitable.
  14. Ok I understand. Seems useless to me when you can push back. Would be interesting to see how this turns out to function with @sanjinr's inverter.

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