superdiy

Hi Carl The bugs I found were in the PC software, not with the inverter itself. I can't remember exactly what they were since I have not used the software for a while now. If I can remember correctly one of the issues were that certain "queries" / logs / graphs for a defined period returned no data when data was actually available and something else which happened for one specific day only was that the software indicated that 0 KWh was generated for one specific day, but if you check the generated KWh for that same day on the inverter, the inverter does have data for that day. I also check the inverter daily and there was not 1 day since it was installed where it generated 0KWh for the day - that is simply not possible unless you disconnect the PVs. I am very happy with the infini and would definitely recommend it to anyone.

Thanks jhay I actually came across a post on that forum yesterday where someone mentioned firmware, but is was one of those 20+ page topics and the "google translated" English sometimes reads a bit difficult, so I only read one page and closed the site. I'll go and have a look again. Many thanks.

Hi Chris I don't think the 2A and 10A etc. charging from AC is a typo - what they mean by that is that the AC charger can charge the batteries at 2A / 10A etc. which is the actual DC current flowing to the batteries. It would not make sense to say how much AC amps it charges at, since then you have to keep charger losses and specific voltages on AC and DC into account to calculate the actual DC charging current and it would just not make sense to do it that way. The reason why I asked the question is because the inverter I bought is a 3KVA model and the manual I've downloaded a while ago covers the 1KVA through to 5KVA models and according to the my manual the 4KVA and 5KVA inverters have the 2A and 10A options as well as some more options above 30A, but the 3KVA 24V (not Plus) inverter only has 20A and 30A (default) options according to my manual.

Made my Friday.

Do any of you know if there are any firmware updates available for the infinisolar and Axpert inverters? I gave google a go, but could not find anything of value. I would also like to know if there is a website somewhere from which I can download a newer version of the PC/desktop software for the infini - I think it is called "SolarPower Pro". I've seen a few screenshots of the software in this forum which had different/more settings than the version I've got installed. I've also found a lot of bugs in the version I have. Thanks

Hi alistair I've ordered one of these for my dad, but still waiting for it to be delivered. In the mean time I'm trying to get batteries for it, but that is a whole different story. According to the manual, I've downloaded a few months ago, the minimum charging current on the 3KW 24V MKS Axpert is 20A. Can you confirm this or have they perhaps added a lower value in the mean time. I assume a simple firmware change should be able to give you more options, but I cannot seem to find any firmware related posts for the infini or Axpert inverters anywhere on the web. With 20A you'll have to have at least a 200AH deep-cycle battery bank or a 400AH gel battery bank, in order not to harm the batteries. Thanks

And they are too happy to have one less customer.

If you eventually do connect more batteries in parallel, just put a fuse in series with each string in case something goes wrong in one of the strings. The fuse rating of the fuse in each string should obviously be less than the rating of the main fuse(s) between the battery bank and the inverter e.g. main fuse = 100A and 2 strings in parallel - each string should have a 50A or 63A serial fuse main fuse = 100A and 3 strings in parallel - each string should have a 32A or 40A serial fuse etc. etc.

I saw a few people doing the heatshrink thing. I'll try a few other local places today, else I'll also go the heatshrink way. I like your "bus bars".

Finally Looks great! Yes, I think the fuses blew because of the initial capacitor charge up - should have used the bulb method. About the smell, my infini did the same, but after a few days the smell was gone. I can't remember, but I think you have the 5KVA model - 63A fuses might blow frequently if you have frequent high loads. The Axpert manual mentions 87A typical and to prevent "nuisance blowing" keep the following in mind: The current rating of a fuse is typically derated 25% for operation at 25

As per the topic title I'm searching for these items for another installation. Since I'm not in a big city my supplier choices are limited and I prefer online shopping, but seems that not many of the online shops keep these things in stock. For my own installation I bought 100A fuseholders (which can be used for isolation as well) and fuses from RS - it was about 30% more expensive compared to my other option, the ACDC equivalent, but at that stage ACDC did not have stock and had no idea when they will have stock again. I used 25mm2 house wire as battery cables, but it is not a pleasure working with those. Locally I can only get 25mm2 welding cable, but welding cable is not available in different colours for the same size - I preferably want red and black. The different cable sizes are identified by different colours e.g. 25mm2 is blue, 35mm2 is grey and 50mm2 is red. I can also get inline fuse holders and fuses locally, but no isolators. Can anyone recommend, preferably an online store, which should be able to supply above-mentioned. Preferably fuse holders like these: http://za.rs-online.com/web/p/rail-mount-fuse-holders/7038579/ Thanks

OK, great.

The electronics in a tracker is very simple. There are hundreds of circuits available on the net. The simple circuits use a pair of LDRs and an op-amp per axis with a suitable H-bridge to drive the motor. If you can do the motors and gears you are 80% there. Keep in mind that you usually do tracking on 2 axis. I noticed that the tilt of your panels are quite steep. In SA the steepest most effective tilt angle is about 30

Without any load, when the battery is disconnected from the charger it will only show approximately 12.6V (open circuit voltage) after a certain period of time e.g. a few days - the battery will not read 12.6V immediately after it is disconnected from the charger with no load connected.

If I may comment here. The same thing happens to my bank on the infini, but I think it is normal and I'll explain why. Referring to one 12V battery, you charge it to approximately 13.8V (55.2V for 4 batteries), but a fully charged battery sits at approximately 12.7V (Open circuit voltage) (50.8V for 4 batteries) - but keep in mind that this is open circuit voltage - no load on the battery. If your charger/inverter thus charges the batteries and keep them in float charge mode when they are full, you will read approximately 55V (depending on specific batteries used) and to the inverter that is 100% charged. As soon as the mains fail and the inverter starts to draw power from the batteries, the battery voltages will drop, depending on the load, to say about 50V (12.5/12.6V per 12V battery). Although the batteries are still fully charged at that moment, the voltage dropped from 55V to 50V and the inverter displays 60% charged, although they are actually say 95% charged. I'm not sure what happens on other inverters, if they maybe take 50/51V and above as 100% charged, but on the Axpert and infini inverters that is definitely not the case. The battery charge indicator on the Axpert and infini inverters are therefor not accurate at all and I think one should rather set the display to show "battery voltage" instead of "charge %" and keep an eye on the battery voltage instead.

Hi Mark If I may answer a few of your questions in the mean time, Voltronic Power still only have the infini 3KW and infini 10KW (3 phase) models on the market. The infini inverters require a 48V battery bank - no 24V option. The minimum charging current can be set to 5A and the manual recommends the smallest battery bank to be 25AH, but then the batteries would be charged at C/5 which is quite high - it is better to charge the batteries at a lower rate and C/10 is usually recommended. Working with a value of C/10 would give you a battery bank of 50AH minimum.

That voltage is very low. It might cause especially motors (fridge compressors etc.) to run hotter than normal. Most (cheaper) clock radios and also some microwave ovens and some stoves use the 50Hz mains frequency for their clock source. If the mains frequency drops e.g. when ESKOM is under strain, these clocks do run slow.

Yep, same thing, he just used a 470 ohm resistor, but I guess more people will have a old globe lying around than a "high wattage" resistor.

Hi Pony, I'm not sure what you mean by the 15A statement? Here is the explanation: Inverters have capacitors on the DC rails, technically in parallel with the external battery bank. If an inverter is switched off just the electronics which usually performs the (inversion) work stops, but the connection to the battery bank is not disconnected. To put it in layman's terms - the engine is stopped, but the fuel line is intact. These capacitors in a new inverter, or an inverter which was disconnected from the battery bank for some time, are usually fully discharged meaning that the voltage on the capacitors sits at 0V. When you connect the battery bank to the inverter these capacitors will be charged up to the same potential as the battery bank connected to them. The current flow tapers off as the potential of the capacitors gets closer to the potential of the battery bank and eventually the current will drop to basically 0A. The initial charging current is extremely high if the resistance is very low (e.g. thick battery cables) and it only takes a few milliseconds to charge the capacitors - this current is not limited in any way and might be hundreds or even thousands of amps, but will flow for a few milliseconds only and usually fuses and circuit breakers won't react to such an overcurrent condition, because fuses and circuit breakers cannot react that fast. If you increase the resistance between the battery bank and the inverter, a lower initial current will flow and it would take longer to charge the capacitors. Depending on the value of the resistor and the size of the capacitors the charging current should taper off to 0 within a certain amount of time. Using a standard 100W globe, connected in series with the battery bank and the inverter, the capacitors should be charged within a few seconds, the globe can then be removed from the circuit and the battery bank can then be connected directly to the inverter. If you however leave the inverter disconnected from the battery bank after the capacitors were charged, the capacitors will slowly discharge because of internal leakage currents inside the capacitors and because the inverter might use some power to keep certain circuits powered e.g. the circuit monitoring when the "soft touch" power button is pressed. Therefor, as mentioned before the easiest way to use the globe method is to connect the battery cables (in your permanent installation), but leave the fuse out of the circuit or leave the isolator in the open / disconnected position, depending on if you have a fuse or isolator in your installation. A good idea is to connect / solder a piece of wire (20cm) to each terminal of the globe - you can use thin wire 0,5mm2 or 1mm2 since the current will be low. Now push the bare end of one of the wires against the connection on one side of the fuse holder OR isolator and push the bare end of the other wire against the connection on the other side of the fuse holder OR isolator. You might notice a small sparc / arc when the second wire touches the connection (terminal) - then you know that the connection was made and the capacitors should be charging. Keep the wires in position for about 10 seconds and then take the globe and wires out of the circuit. The capacitors should now be fully charged and you can insert the fuse OR close the isolator.

Good idea, if you are going to disconnect the batteries frequently, but if not, then having a globe ready for when you need it is easier. I don't think a visual break is a requirement, if I understand you correctly. If you have an isolator installed, depending on the specific isolator you might not be able to see inside it.

Yes, you understood correctly.

When you "pull a fuse" or close the fuse holder you will in any case have a spark - no matter what. Tip: Best way to minimize the spark / arc when you connect batteries to a inverter which is SWITCHED OFF, is to use a resistor in series with the connection. The initial high current condition is caused when the capacitors on the DC line inside the inverter is charged. Once the capacitors are charged the current flow becomes 0 or extremely low. A suitable resistor would be something like a standard 240V 100W globe - connect it in series with the battery connection to the inverter, give the capacitors a few seconds to charge and then remove the globe from the circuit. Best place to connect the globe is in parallel with the isolator or fuse in the battery line, while the isolator is in open (disconnected) mode or the fuse is removed from the circuit.

That is not an option, you'll have to disconnect the batteries to use the desulfater. If your batteries are kept charged and recharged immediately after they were discharged you should not really need a desulfater.