WannabeSolarSparky

wired

Mine new one re-done yesterday, still need to label correctly

Wait for more feedback Clever real sparkies may have more legal input for you to follow

Maybe follow the example most installers use and put the changeover in the centre then the 2 indicators to left and right of changeover, and the incoming feed breakers to the left next to them and the incoming inverter load breaker to the right of the light, that way you keep each side separate and everything makes much more sense. 1 - breaker going to inverter ( usually used to isolate inverter for maintenance or repairs or upgrades ) 2 - surge arrestor to inverter breaker and change-over 3 - incoming main breaker from main grid 4 - red indicator - signals grid on/off 5 - changeover - goes to essential loads 6 - green indicator - signals from inverter on/off 7 - breaker coming from inverter to change-over

They need to go on the outgoing side of the breaker, so e.g if the grid breaker is off then the light is off, or if the grid is off then the light is also off. That indicator light is to show if there is live power on the circuit going from the grid to the inverter or to the loads. You can also double up to indicate both sides of the breaker to fully indicate state of power in the circuits from both ends. Just be sure to label accordingly.

red to incoming from grid and green to incoming from inverter. Optional - add a amber warning light to changeover output to load.

Unless you have massive roof space or yard space for a massive array then it is simply not worth the effort. Also note - they may limit you on the amount of power you can feed back into the grid depending on what your street transformer capacities are... Then also the fees you pay for the "privilege" to feed back makes it almost a waste of time. And then if you look at what they pay you back... just does not make sense. For most users simply finding more creative ways to consume their excess pv is the better way to go. One day when we have a stable grid and decent feed-in structure then may be worth having another look. Just my opinion.

I do not personally use HA but I am sure it can already do what you are suggesting. Maybe the people who already use HA can chip in on this

Yip supplier prices have come down drastically over the last 2 weeks, so get fresh quotes AND YES make sure it is itemised so that you know exactly what markups you are paying, some unscrupulous installers are still quoting high prices.

That would be my answer too, also how mine works.

If both east and west can take 8 panels each then you can do each 8 in series and each one into a separate mppt port on the inverter.

East and west each onto their own mppt. Not a good idea to mix different directions on same mppt. General rule - each direction on to it's own mppt to achieve max power efficiency. If you have awkward roof space configurations and run out of mppt ports on the main inverter then you can always use/add a few smaller mppt controllers and link all to the battery banks with bus bars.

No worries, 11 July came and went ages ago and I don't have time to go to PE or even Durbs

Hahaha - yeah I am awaiting that knock too.

https://www.eskom.co.za/distribution/small-scale-embedded-generators/#Apply https://www.eskom.co.za/distribution/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/SSEG-FAQ-15062022.pdf As my system is configured as an off-grid system, I am supposed to complete a declaration form ( No Cost ) 17. In the case of off-grid applications where there is a physical changeover, is there still a cost involved in submitting an application as it is simply to notify Eskom of the installation? No, there is no application process and cost charge, but the customer still has to complete the official declaration letter to confirm that the system is off-the-grid I am yet to find this form? Anyone know where it is?

https://electromannsa.co.za/product/dc-8v-to-100v-battery-voltcapacitypower-meter/

I use some of these, mostly for the solar panels but works for battery banks too. And yes, add a small inline suitably rated fuse https://www.robotics.org.za/YB5145B?search=voltmeter

Hi @capoccio1 Did you download the pc software as I suggested so that you can test if you actually have communication with your cable?

You make a fair point, this then brings up the question of maintenance. Even my tiny system at home gets a physical checkup every 6 months. I get onto the roof and check the condition of the wiring and all connections and visually check every single panel too. That simple check can potentially save me a ton of cash if any of the wiring and or connection did go bad after some time. wE can speculate all we want about that fire, bottom line is that every solar system owner should take responsibility for keeping their system safe. The regulations will undoubtedly be intensified and made stricter, which in itself is not a bad thing.

Does not really matter how the panels are wired they should still provide the rated power less losses when the loads demand it. BUT - if the inverter cannot handle the rated power then that's a whole other story, I am sure your installer would/should have matched the panels correctly to the inverter capabilities and your load/budget requirements. As @FixAMess mentioned, provide some more info then we can better advise/assist.

I believe if you use the same clearance from your DB you should be safe. Maybe some of the forum electricians can be more clear with the SANS rules for that.

Yip, same as see 1st comment Short cuts were most likely taken.

Sunsynk Solis S6Pro Axpert King

Start by following the inverters clearance guide. Most inverters will have that on the included manual.