WJP

I'm enjoying the website. I don't want an additional app on my phone.

Looks like 50mm2 to me.

Your batteries outclass the inverters. In hindsight wouldn't a couple of 8kW Sunsynks have been easier? I think a bus bar would have been a good idea.

Download Victrons guide called "Wiring Unlimited". Its a good read. I think many people on this forum would benefit from it. In there they cover your question with diagrams.

Compare these perhaps there is a hardware, firmware or software difference.

If the budget is limited just buy a smaller LiFePO4 battery. There are some 12V lithium drop in replacements as small as 7Ah. Lead is dead baby.

Note the capacity ratings on a Pb battery are also determined over a gentle 20hr discharge. That's not how you use them is it? I think discussing the merits of LiFePO4 over Pb is like flogging a dead horse. Pb batteries are like an overweight stripper, cheap, heavy, they don't do much work, widely available and in the end you'll regret your decision.

You could also use a Solar MD battery with their V2 Logger. The logger will interface with the inverter via RS232 & with the battery via CAN bus.

So how do you enter? Let's just say I'm an iFan .

I think Hubble is coming out with a 10kWh slimline option soon.

My existing 48V lead acid system could do with an upgrade as the batteries are failing. I've got good video editing/you tube skills for a nice user video...

Just get an 8kW Sunsynk inverter & a supported LFP battery. Grow from there. I agree with the statement above regarding CAN compatibility between bands. It's something to be aware of.

An EcoFlow Delta would be a nice choice for a non permanent power solution.

You could have used something like this: https://scoop.co.za/scoop-25u-800mm-deep-outdoor-cabinet-with-4-fans.html

The important question is why do you read NEWS 24? I find that very concerning.

It's not Mecer. It's imported by Rectron, hence the RCT.

@Derek Ramos Personally I think a 1-1.5C rating is a happy medium. The higher the C rating the more the manufacturers tend to pay in material costs. Ultimately this cost is your cost. A 3C rating is excessive/wasteful for static storage. A 3C cell is likely designed for mobile applications like public transport. A 0.5C & 1C battery could offer the same number of cycles if their design limits are followed. So 1C isn't necessarily better than 0.5C if you don't need the high current capability. Agreed Pylontech may have improved their internal build quality. During my discussion of the AM2 they were talking about LFP/LiFePO4 and not NMC cells. The Hubble batteries are produced offshore to their spec and design via a partner of theirs. Dell, Alienware, Ubiquiti & many others outsource their manufacturing to the likes of Foxconn. Seems to be a modern business practice. As far as I'm aware they have hired some good engineers with regards to the electronic design. Coming from the distribution industry myself I like the fact that they have multiple branches throughout SA where you can buy/return goods. With regards to their apparent firmware issues it's at least taken care of internally. The BMS is their own design so it's easier to resolve problems, add features & support for new inverters. The same can't be said when you use a 3rd party BMS. It's at the heart of the solution so why outsource that? I have no brand allegiance personally. Within my own limited budget I'm searching for the best buy. At this time and given what I currently know I'd buy a Hubble AM2 or multiples thereof. *not a doctor, batteries not included, may cause anal leakage.

I'd like to chip in my two cents regarding the battery choice. I've worked for one of the local brands. I've met with another local brand & I've seen the internal build quality of a popular foreign one. Based on my limited knowledge & having seen behind the curtain I'd recommend the Hubble AM2s & the Riot Link accessory. Another important factor in your purchasing decision is the after sales service & access to it. I think Hubble is the way to go for this domestic application.

Nice way to paint your roof. White makes it a lot cooler, your neighbours might not like it though.

I appreciate the logic but is it maid, guest & wife proof?

Ok but when there is load-shedding what is going to happen?

Which battery? It sounds obvious when said but this mistake is often made. The battery needs to be able to meet the demand of the inverter. If your 8kw inverter wants 8000Watts can the battery deliver? If the battery is say a 8kw/h model & it has a 1C rating then yes it can. If you paired the inverter with a smaller battery e.g. a 5kw/h then there's going to be a problem when the inverter tries to place a 8kw load on it. The battery BMS will protect itself & turn off the load. You don't want to risk it. Which brand & model are you looking to buy?

Just want to say thanks for posting this query & the detailed responses.

I watched one of the Synsynk You Tube videos recently. I think the max PV input was 10,000W, want to aim for 450V or lower and the max amperage was around 18A. It's got two sting inputs. Why not go for smaller sub 500W panels & not fly so close to the sun? Careful, Icarus...

I did not explain myself well enough. I saw an 80% reduction of the PV output. I've got 8 thermal panels to heat the pool that I'm going to install in the next two weeks. I forsee PVC weld and sticky fingers in my future. I'll lay them on the flat roof of the garage. We've had the pool for 25 years, most of it with a saltwater chlorinator. It makes it much easier to maintain. Pretty much always blue. I think it's worth it.