Henry2501

Thanks @MrBeauvedere you a bloody legend. Downloaded the PaceEx app from playstore and it works. Bloody hell The Must techs could not even help me here. Ok now i will Do some research on how to adjust charge voltages and stuff. Thank again.
I tried almost 30 different apps from play store this one never came up.
Now i have to learn what i can change and what not.

Thanks.
Helpful to have this sort of feedback for different battery brands.
One often seem to fly solo when straying off the mainstream oft repeated recommendations for "good" brands. Pylontech comes to mind, and there have been many discussions around whether they are really as good as everyone touted them back in the day.
As a personal general rule, I always just assume I would be on my own for any project and any supplier support would be a bonus, and if I have enough information to do task A or B without supplier support ( ala alternative resources and information ), then I go with it :)
This is where this type of post becomes helpful.
@Henry2501 do you perhaps know what BMS the must has? It looks a lot like a PaceBMS.

I took a leap of faith and upgraded from Pylontech to three of these Must batteries. At first i was very disappointed- could be my inverter who knows but getting support from Must or the Distributer of these must batteries is a dead end. my experience is all i can work on. So eventually i got them to work. They did work on the pylontech protocol on my Axpert 8kw inverter but showed wrong values as in the capacity and state of charge. Was all over the show. Good thing was the Values required by the inverter like voltage and so on was working. So the communication was working as in the voltages for charging and Amperage request from the batteries was all going through and charging at correct voltages and bms was talking correctly. Just the state of charge was all screwed up.
Contacted Solar assistant as there was no clear indication that the Must batteries are supported on their website and they suggested using a rs485 adapter and reading the values through solar assistant. I bought the Shoto RS485 cable as recommended by them and then she worked after a view failed tries. So if you bought these batteries and struggle with a axpert inverter then just get Solar assistant. I did have it before as the Pylontec batteries was connected to it so i just had to get the correct cable. I tried various RS485 to usb adapters but none of them worked. Have no idea why. Spend way to much money on other adapters that just was a failure. I was worried the cable from Solar assistant wont work but to my surprise it did. :)
I had to Put my Axpert inverter on "User" settings. Fine with me as the coms was all over the place. and its also connected to Solar Assistant.
I used Battery Float and Charge Voltages at (NOW 56.8V) 57.6 V that is what the BMS requests so i left it at that for now might adjust it down to 56 V we will see. I will keep an eye on the SOC and see. I use to run my pylontec batteries at 3.5volt per cell. so at 52.5 Volts
Max Charge current at 90 i have 3 Batteries so thats 30amp each. More than fast enough.
I only charge of solar as im 99% offgrid. Except those long and cold winter days with almost zero solar. then i have to start the genny or switch eksdom on for a couple of hours to charge battery. I prefer the genny. Lets hope not anymore as i have more batteries now. I could not get more Pylontec UP5000 batteries at a decent price. i see they moving to the UF5000 now that is 16cells. So sold mine and tried the Must. In the end the way i see it 100amps is hopefully 100amps. As long as the cells are Lifepo4 who cares. I was almost going to rip out the Must BMS and replace it with a JK or something just to get them to work. I guess thats why we pay that extra for well known branded battery for better compatibility. But then again it could just be my axpert inverter. For all you axpert haters out there these are in my opinion good inverters. They hell of a noisy but that's ok they work. Compared to the other ones still worth the money. I run this inverter with compressor , well pumps, Sprinkler systems and all and they have never really given me problems. It just works. Updating the Firmware is a hit and a miss sometimes but I have stopped on that worry in anycase.
Sorry im ranting long story short.
Axpert settings on User mode.
Plug RS485 cable from SA in to the RS485 coms port. Not the Parallel in port as per their SA website see images attached. Make sure Battery is set to Pylontech protocal on the battery bms. Cycle bms by switching of the battery.
Connect Solar assistant via the cable and now all readings good.
So it was a bit of a struggle but all working now. Some useless info if someone is struggling with these batteries. Capacity test was good so im happy with these, but dont expect help from Must at all. They cant even tell you what app to use on them as i tried almost every app from the app store and none of them work. They could have just left the So called areal off. waist of time. Looks nice and smart but useless.
*****Updated Changes 15/12/2025******
Findings - The Must BMS really push the batteries to their max voltage of 3.65 per cell. I dont like that at all so i adjusted the voltage to 3.55 per cell. setting to 56.8 Charge voltage. I also noticed that the bms waits right to the end of voltage charge range before it adjusts the requested amperage down- So i added a Rule Under power management in Solar assistant to Charge batteries at 70amps from 0-90 SOC and from 90-100% 20Amps max. So that settle the last bit of charge at 7amps per battery. I have 3.
Find the batteries respond better to this. They dont get a over voltages allarm as often. I will see how this works for me.

I am in the process and communicating with must for a firmware updates but this is very slow and all i get out of them is functioning as normal. They really seem to not care. One word answers and thats it. Apperantly CAN coms work but so far i could not get CAN coms to work on my Inverter with Weco or Soltara Option under battery Coms. Made a custom RJ45 cable from inverter pins 6,7 to battery pin 4,5 but that was a fail.
If anyone has better results on these batteries please share. Like newer firmware or even an app that actually does work on the BMS coms that will be fun to see. I wish i knew more so i can get in to the BMS and adjust the setting and charge voltages on the BMS. But my brain to much of a rockspider to get that right.
Fun times.

Thanks to @MrBeauvedere the App from playstore that works is the Paceex BMS app. Atleast that picks the batteries up. So progress there is. Thank you Sir.

I took a leap of faith and upgraded from Pylontech to three of these Must batteries. At first i was very disappointed- could be my inverter who knows but getting support from Must or the Distributer of these must batteries is a dead end. my experience is all i can work on. So eventually i got them to work. They did work on the pylontech protocol on my Axpert 8kw inverter but showed wrong values as in the capacity and state of charge. Was all over the show. Good thing was the Values required by the inverter like voltage and so on was working. So the communication was working as in the voltages for charging and Amperage request from the batteries was all going through and charging at correct voltages and bms was talking correctly. Just the state of charge was all screwed up.
Contacted Solar assistant as there was no clear indication that the Must batteries are supported on their website and they suggested using a rs485 adapter and reading the values through solar assistant. I bought the Shoto RS485 cable as recommended by them and then she worked after a view failed tries. So if you bought these batteries and struggle with a axpert inverter then just get Solar assistant. I did have it before as the Pylontec batteries was connected to it so i just had to get the correct cable. I tried various RS485 to usb adapters but none of them worked. Have no idea why. Spend way to much money on other adapters that just was a failure. I was worried the cable from Solar assistant wont work but to my surprise it did. :)
I had to Put my Axpert inverter on "User" settings. Fine with me as the coms was all over the place. and its also connected to Solar Assistant.
I used Battery Float and Charge Voltages at (NOW 56.8V) 57.6 V that is what the BMS requests so i left it at that for now might adjust it down to 56 V we will see. I will keep an eye on the SOC and see. I use to run my pylontec batteries at 3.5volt per cell. so at 52.5 Volts
Max Charge current at 90 i have 3 Batteries so thats 30amp each. More than fast enough.
I only charge of solar as im 99% offgrid. Except those long and cold winter days with almost zero solar. then i have to start the genny or switch eksdom on for a couple of hours to charge battery. I prefer the genny. Lets hope not anymore as i have more batteries now. I could not get more Pylontec UP5000 batteries at a decent price. i see they moving to the UF5000 now that is 16cells. So sold mine and tried the Must. In the end the way i see it 100amps is hopefully 100amps. As long as the cells are Lifepo4 who cares. I was almost going to rip out the Must BMS and replace it with a JK or something just to get them to work. I guess thats why we pay that extra for well known branded battery for better compatibility. But then again it could just be my axpert inverter. For all you axpert haters out there these are in my opinion good inverters. They hell of a noisy but that's ok they work. Compared to the other ones still worth the money. I run this inverter with compressor , well pumps, Sprinkler systems and all and they have never really given me problems. It just works. Updating the Firmware is a hit and a miss sometimes but I have stopped on that worry in anycase.
Sorry im ranting long story short.
Axpert settings on User mode.
Plug RS485 cable from SA in to the RS485 coms port. Not the Parallel in port as per their SA website see images attached. Make sure Battery is set to Pylontech protocal on the battery bms. Cycle bms by switching of the battery.
Connect Solar assistant via the cable and now all readings good.
So it was a bit of a struggle but all working now. Some useless info if someone is struggling with these batteries. Capacity test was good so im happy with these, but dont expect help from Must at all. They cant even tell you what app to use on them as i tried almost every app from the app store and none of them work. They could have just left the So called areal off. waist of time. Looks nice and smart but useless.
*****Updated Changes 15/12/2025******
Findings - The Must BMS really push the batteries to their max voltage of 3.65 per cell. I dont like that at all so i adjusted the voltage to 3.55 per cell. setting to 56.8 Charge voltage. I also noticed that the bms waits right to the end of voltage charge range before it adjusts the requested amperage down- So i added a Rule Under power management in Solar assistant to Charge batteries at 70amps from 0-90 SOC and from 90-100% 20Amps max. So that settle the last bit of charge at 7amps per battery. I have 3.
Find the batteries respond better to this. They dont get a over voltages allarm as often. I will see how this works for me.

I am in the process and communicating with must for a firmware updates but this is very slow and all i get out of them is functioning as normal. They really seem to not care. One word answers and thats it. Apperantly CAN coms work but so far i could not get CAN coms to work on my Inverter with Weco or Soltara Option under battery Coms. Made a custom RJ45 cable from inverter pins 6,7 to battery pin 4,5 but that was a fail.
If anyone has better results on these batteries please share. Like newer firmware or even an app that actually does work on the BMS coms that will be fun to see. I wish i knew more so i can get in to the BMS and adjust the setting and charge voltages on the BMS. But my brain to much of a rockspider to get that right.
Fun times.

Thanks to @MrBeauvedere the App from playstore that works is the Paceex BMS app. Atleast that picks the batteries up. So progress there is. Thank you Sir.

Solar cells provide roughly 0.6 V with no load, and roughly 0.5 V at their maximum power point. That's in full sunlight, but the 6:5 ratio (1:0.83) roughly remains constant in usable light levels. So that means that your 137 V panels (no load) would sag to about 114 V under load. That would pull them below the low end of the MPPT voltage range.
So unfortunately, three panels (even giant ones like this) aren't quite enough for your inverter's solar charger to work with. One more panel should fix the problem.

Like its been said here. 10 years down the line and now the installer is blamed. Thats like saying i bought my car 5 years ago never serviced or checked it. now the engine is broken. What now. Is the dealer responsible. please man. I have seen installations done by people that have all the new green cards and so called qualified but people will always take a shortcut to make more money. Some installations look beautiful till you take the covers off, Open all the DB boards then look at it. My 5 year old son can make better connection than that. Dont be fooled by the outside but look on the inside you will find a different outcome. What cables are used. Quality and thickens of cables that is used. How the connections are terminated. Just twisted and shoved half assed in to the socket or is it nicely crimped and inserted without extras hanging out and looking need. have they what i call tighten and tug on the cable to make sure its nice and tight in there.
Here a simple example. Most household inverters aka Sunsynk, axpert, Dye, Solis etc have an mppt controller that can handle a dc voltage of between 90-500volts, yes sunsynk start at 120 ok!! but 99percent of all the installation i come across has a SPD of 600Volts or 1000volts on dc side. Its fits the code of having a SPD well done you pass. Great now what its all in code.
NO NO NO
You need to install a SPD of 500volts preferably 450volts max to protect the Inverter of a surge of electricity. By the time the 600volts spd has grounded the connection the intverter mppt is already blown. See how clever that was. But the SPD will protect me from lightning. ALSO WRONG,
NOTHING can protect you from a direct lightning strike. NOTHING !!!!!! Lets hear the clever comments on how it can. Please reply.
Do i have my greencard- no - have i been doing installation on solar for many many years - yes - Do i do it the right way. I surely stick with code and make sure the quality of my work is in such a way i can pitch up years later and be proud of my work. My clients are protected and so am i. Quality cable and correct thickness is used to make sure no losses can occur or minimal losses for the clever comments. but i dont go use 4mm2 cable on a roof that is running 6000watts in solar running just over 300volts at 16-19amps. But the cable specs say it can handle 40 amps in an open environment maybe for a short time. Go stick you hand on that 4mm2 cable and feel how hot that cable gets. On a nice and sunny day pushing full load the cable heat up become very hot to the touch. Over years the cable will start degrading causing more heat and causing fires.
I can go on forever about the bad workmanship i come across but that's just two simple examples. Any person can do a installation its pissy but doing it correctly is another story. Go get your so called green card guy with a flashy certificates , 50 workers and bullshit overcharging you by a 50-80%, nice flashy bakkie and so on, hes must do good work. Look how well he is doing YES YEEEEEES MUST BE.
Bullshit baffles brains. I guess thats the secret in South Africa. But good workmanship is a sin.
All the code is most of the time dumb.
If you as an electrician walk in and just stick your hand in the db board without checking if there is power you are a loose head. All the stickers are there for when another electrician comes there so they can see the inverter is connected to the db board. Well if you cant recognize that there is an inverter in the same area as the db then you don't deserve to be called an electrician. These things are all common sense. like the one person said here always check if there is power and double check and check again. Then continue with work. As an appy that is what you are taught. especially when it gets to 3 phase. that shit burns....... and kills

Like its been said here. 10 years down the line and now the installer is blamed. Thats like saying i bought my car 5 years ago never serviced or checked it. now the engine is broken. What now. Is the dealer responsible. please man. I have seen installations done by people that have all the new green cards and so called qualified but people will always take a shortcut to make more money. Some installations look beautiful till you take the covers off, Open all the DB boards then look at it. My 5 year old son can make better connection than that. Dont be fooled by the outside but look on the inside you will find a different outcome. What cables are used. Quality and thickens of cables that is used. How the connections are terminated. Just twisted and shoved half assed in to the socket or is it nicely crimped and inserted without extras hanging out and looking need. have they what i call tighten and tug on the cable to make sure its nice and tight in there.
Here a simple example. Most household inverters aka Sunsynk, axpert, Dye, Solis etc have an mppt controller that can handle a dc voltage of between 90-500volts, yes sunsynk start at 120 ok!! but 99percent of all the installation i come across has a SPD of 600Volts or 1000volts on dc side. Its fits the code of having a SPD well done you pass. Great now what its all in code.
NO NO NO
You need to install a SPD of 500volts preferably 450volts max to protect the Inverter of a surge of electricity. By the time the 600volts spd has grounded the connection the intverter mppt is already blown. See how clever that was. But the SPD will protect me from lightning. ALSO WRONG,
NOTHING can protect you from a direct lightning strike. NOTHING !!!!!! Lets hear the clever comments on how it can. Please reply.
Do i have my greencard- no - have i been doing installation on solar for many many years - yes - Do i do it the right way. I surely stick with code and make sure the quality of my work is in such a way i can pitch up years later and be proud of my work. My clients are protected and so am i. Quality cable and correct thickness is used to make sure no losses can occur or minimal losses for the clever comments. but i dont go use 4mm2 cable on a roof that is running 6000watts in solar running just over 300volts at 16-19amps. But the cable specs say it can handle 40 amps in an open environment maybe for a short time. Go stick you hand on that 4mm2 cable and feel how hot that cable gets. On a nice and sunny day pushing full load the cable heat up become very hot to the touch. Over years the cable will start degrading causing more heat and causing fires.
I can go on forever about the bad workmanship i come across but that's just two simple examples. Any person can do a installation its pissy but doing it correctly is another story. Go get your so called green card guy with a flashy certificates , 50 workers and bullshit overcharging you by a 50-80%, nice flashy bakkie and so on, hes must do good work. Look how well he is doing YES YEEEEEES MUST BE.
Bullshit baffles brains. I guess thats the secret in South Africa. But good workmanship is a sin.
All the code is most of the time dumb.
If you as an electrician walk in and just stick your hand in the db board without checking if there is power you are a loose head. All the stickers are there for when another electrician comes there so they can see the inverter is connected to the db board. Well if you cant recognize that there is an inverter in the same area as the db then you don't deserve to be called an electrician. These things are all common sense. like the one person said here always check if there is power and double check and check again. Then continue with work. As an appy that is what you are taught. especially when it gets to 3 phase. that shit burns....... and kills

Like its been said here. 10 years down the line and now the installer is blamed. Thats like saying i bought my car 5 years ago never serviced or checked it. now the engine is broken. What now. Is the dealer responsible. please man. I have seen installations done by people that have all the new green cards and so called qualified but people will always take a shortcut to make more money. Some installations look beautiful till you take the covers off, Open all the DB boards then look at it. My 5 year old son can make better connection than that. Dont be fooled by the outside but look on the inside you will find a different outcome. What cables are used. Quality and thickens of cables that is used. How the connections are terminated. Just twisted and shoved half assed in to the socket or is it nicely crimped and inserted without extras hanging out and looking need. have they what i call tighten and tug on the cable to make sure its nice and tight in there.
Here a simple example. Most household inverters aka Sunsynk, axpert, Dye, Solis etc have an mppt controller that can handle a dc voltage of between 90-500volts, yes sunsynk start at 120 ok!! but 99percent of all the installation i come across has a SPD of 600Volts or 1000volts on dc side. Its fits the code of having a SPD well done you pass. Great now what its all in code.
NO NO NO
You need to install a SPD of 500volts preferably 450volts max to protect the Inverter of a surge of electricity. By the time the 600volts spd has grounded the connection the intverter mppt is already blown. See how clever that was. But the SPD will protect me from lightning. ALSO WRONG,
NOTHING can protect you from a direct lightning strike. NOTHING !!!!!! Lets hear the clever comments on how it can. Please reply.
Do i have my greencard- no - have i been doing installation on solar for many many years - yes - Do i do it the right way. I surely stick with code and make sure the quality of my work is in such a way i can pitch up years later and be proud of my work. My clients are protected and so am i. Quality cable and correct thickness is used to make sure no losses can occur or minimal losses for the clever comments. but i dont go use 4mm2 cable on a roof that is running 6000watts in solar running just over 300volts at 16-19amps. But the cable specs say it can handle 40 amps in an open environment maybe for a short time. Go stick you hand on that 4mm2 cable and feel how hot that cable gets. On a nice and sunny day pushing full load the cable heat up become very hot to the touch. Over years the cable will start degrading causing more heat and causing fires.
I can go on forever about the bad workmanship i come across but that's just two simple examples. Any person can do a installation its pissy but doing it correctly is another story. Go get your so called green card guy with a flashy certificates , 50 workers and bullshit overcharging you by a 50-80%, nice flashy bakkie and so on, hes must do good work. Look how well he is doing YES YEEEEEES MUST BE.
Bullshit baffles brains. I guess thats the secret in South Africa. But good workmanship is a sin.
All the code is most of the time dumb.
If you as an electrician walk in and just stick your hand in the db board without checking if there is power you are a loose head. All the stickers are there for when another electrician comes there so they can see the inverter is connected to the db board. Well if you cant recognize that there is an inverter in the same area as the db then you don't deserve to be called an electrician. These things are all common sense. like the one person said here always check if there is power and double check and check again. Then continue with work. As an appy that is what you are taught. especially when it gets to 3 phase. that shit burns....... and kills

yes we have experienced this with modified inverter that we come across. Especially the axpert inverters. If you look at the bottom where the fans is you can see a lot of small parts components. I came across 2 inverters already where people turned the fans around and those small components eroded from the forced air on them. That also one of the reason i did not do the fan mod. Did not want to go in to this as some smart people here will probably say i am talking nonsense as electronics have a coating on to prevent erosion but thanks for bringing it up.

Something I have been wondering about wrt changing the fan direction is the location of the more sensitive/likely to fail components on the mainboard. Maybe @BritishRacingGreen can help out as you seem to be repairing quite a few of these axperts and I've been reading your and @Coulomb's posts about caps drying out and was wondering if the ones you see failing more often are at the top of the board or if location doesn't really matter? If the more sensitive components are towards the top of the mainboard then it would make sense to pull the fresh air in at the top rather than push warm air up over the lower components first. Just a thought.

I removed the filters and a lot better. On the graph we can see the temperature drop. It also runs more silent now

That is what o did yesterday. Seen better temperatures since the removal of the filters

I run my 3kw element on the Inverter 8kw, I upgraded it from a 2kw element found it worked quicker and better. 2kw took way to long. IF solar is available i manually control it to run during the day. Sun = free energy so why not take advantage of it. That is if the inverter and solar you have installed can handle the load. On average my geyser takes about 30-45 minutes to heat up to 60. So why not. Every cent you can save on eksdom side why not. Even if she uses 2000watts of the batteries for 30-40 minutes im not faced as there is normally enough time and sun to charge it up again after the geyser gets to temps. Also add a blanket around your geyser. I went cheap and got some underfelt(the stuff you put under carpets grey looking stuff) and wrapped the geyser in that 3or 4 layers cant remember. Works better than these stupid geyser blankets hold heat much better now.
Just remember to switch it off on very overcast days as it will drain the batteries very quickly. I am 95% offgrid so my eksdom is off most of the time. But sometimes i have to tuck my tail between my legs and ask for some power from the big man 🤣 then i will switch my incoming eksdom on.

Hello All!
The lucky draw is online!
Please find the link to the entry page. It is open for 7 days and then we will randomly select a winner!
https://app.viralsweep.com/sweeps/full/45b3be-121080?framed=1
Good Luck all!
Sincerely
Powerforum Team

word of Warning to people with a Mustek Max 8kw inverter the one with the rgb led in front the straight RGB light not the round one. I have one of these Mustek inverters and it has been in twice to replace the Main controller. Eventually i asked for a new inverter and they did give me a new one as the old one is now only 5 months old.
 
WORD OF WARNING IF YOU HAVE A M3C3R MAX INVERTER
Dont load the new firmware on it as after exactly 60days mine said F90 error. MIGHT HAVE BEEN JUST MY BAD LUCK I DONT KNOW.  The firmware was loaded on the 12/4/2022 and on Sunday the 12/06/2022 F90 message appeared and nothing wanted to respond or work and no power to the house. I now have a new inverter but to scared to change the firmware to the new firmware as this one came with the same as my previous inverter fans are always on and very noisy. I just installed the new inverter again and will see if this firmware works correctly as the previous one did not charge the battery correctly. So time will tel. @Coulomb if i am wrong please correct me but now i feel like must3k might be importing Voltronic ripoff units or am i just being paranoid now. I remember reading somewhere on the forum about the F90 error.
THIS inverter has been nothing but a nightmare.
Driver Axpert Max Firmware version
72.01 Model number 44 Machine type Off Grid Topology Transformerless Max parallel units 9 units Nominal battery voltage 48.0 V Expected AC input voltage 230.0 V Max AC input current 34.7 A Max AC output current 34.7 A Max AC output power 8000 W Max AC output apparent power 8000 VA

GoodDay. I am also from CapeTown South africa. And yes you can definitely see less production this year. To my small brain its definitely more pollution in the air. In 2020 when we were in lock down the air quality was a lot cleaner so no smog in the air the production on my solar panels were off the charts. I was getting over 2200 watts from my 1600 watts string panels. 4x405 Mono Panels halve cell. now 1000watts on average, My 4x545watts string is only producing 1600watts on average so all down facing north . Yes we always have smog especially now the last couple of weeks with very little wind. You can see even the sun looks a bit yellow/brown some days. That why the day after rain production ramps up again. Drive up to durbanville and look back towards capetown. From strand all the way to westcoast all you can see is a thick smog layer. Horrible. Cape town is know for its bad quality air especially now when the wind is not howling. if you fly you can see the smog all over the lower cape town area basically all the way from somerset west to almost as far a Yzerfontein the whole of bottom corner of the western cape is covered in smog. So sad, i hope we get lots off rain soon to clean the air.
This is all just based on my opinion and offcoarse i can be wrong 😉

GoodDay. I am also from CapeTown South africa. And yes you can definitely see less production this year. To my small brain its definitely more pollution in the air. In 2020 when we were in lock down the air quality was a lot cleaner so no smog in the air the production on my solar panels were off the charts. I was getting over 2200 watts from my 1600 watts string panels. 4x405 Mono Panels halve cell. now 1000watts on average, My 4x545watts string is only producing 1600watts on average so all down facing north . Yes we always have smog especially now the last couple of weeks with very little wind. You can see even the sun looks a bit yellow/brown some days. That why the day after rain production ramps up again. Drive up to durbanville and look back towards capetown. From strand all the way to westcoast all you can see is a thick smog layer. Horrible. Cape town is know for its bad quality air especially now when the wind is not howling. if you fly you can see the smog all over the lower cape town area basically all the way from somerset west to almost as far a Yzerfontein the whole of bottom corner of the western cape is covered in smog. So sad, i hope we get lots off rain soon to clean the air.
This is all just based on my opinion and offcoarse i can be wrong 😉

GoodDay. I am also from CapeTown South africa. And yes you can definitely see less production this year. To my small brain its definitely more pollution in the air. In 2020 when we were in lock down the air quality was a lot cleaner so no smog in the air the production on my solar panels were off the charts. I was getting over 2200 watts from my 1600 watts string panels. 4x405 Mono Panels halve cell. now 1000watts on average, My 4x545watts string is only producing 1600watts on average so all down facing north . Yes we always have smog especially now the last couple of weeks with very little wind. You can see even the sun looks a bit yellow/brown some days. That why the day after rain production ramps up again. Drive up to durbanville and look back towards capetown. From strand all the way to westcoast all you can see is a thick smog layer. Horrible. Cape town is know for its bad quality air especially now when the wind is not howling. if you fly you can see the smog all over the lower cape town area basically all the way from somerset west to almost as far a Yzerfontein the whole of bottom corner of the western cape is covered in smog. So sad, i hope we get lots off rain soon to clean the air.
This is all just based on my opinion and offcoarse i can be wrong 😉

Hello Coulomb
Thank you for your great assistance like always. I tried everything in the end and nothing worked. Took the unit in to my local mustek dealer and they replaced the main controller board as no firmware wanted to load on to it.T^hey even tried many times. new board now running 46.05
It seems to be behaving normally now but i only installed it today so will see.
Thank you again i just wanted to respond to you.

For anyone interested. I am not sure if i am allowed to do this but i finally got firmware from the actual factory in Taiwan that manufactures my specific unit. Its the VMiii 5kv unit with 48volt battery (I also have a Pylontech 3000 battery connected to it with no communication issues. )
I had constant issues with unit resetting stored settings and fan always on issues. I got the latest firmware from the factory for the Display unit and the Main CPU firmware.
They were very professional and quick to assist me after the local Company did not do much to assist, they did eventually respond but still did not give me the correct info.
After updating both the Main Firmware and the Display firmware my unit is way more stable and quieter. No fans running 24/7. I upgraded from 41.03 to 41.16 main cpu and 2.00 to 2.61 on the remote Display CPU and it is way more stable. This might not be the latest i don't know but it seems stable.
Was super easy to do. Hope this can help someone that is struggling.
Please note this firmware is for the VMiii 5kv Offgrid inverter with the Screen on the bottom left side of the Inverter box see image attached i believe the same as the kodak inverters.
I accept no responsibility for you bricking your inverter, this is used at your own risk.
If i can do it i am sure you can.

Remote Panel Firmware Upgrade SOP20190819.pdf Remote Panel_Reflash_MCU(02.61).rar VMIII reflash_ver41.16.7z

For anyone interested. I am not sure if i am allowed to do this but i finally got firmware from the actual factory in Taiwan that manufactures my specific unit. Its the VMiii 5kv unit with 48volt battery (I also have a Pylontech 3000 battery connected to it with no communication issues. )
I had constant issues with unit resetting stored settings and fan always on issues. I got the latest firmware from the factory for the Display unit and the Main CPU firmware.
They were very professional and quick to assist me after the local Company did not do much to assist, they did eventually respond but still did not give me the correct info.
After updating both the Main Firmware and the Display firmware my unit is way more stable and quieter. No fans running 24/7. I upgraded from 41.03 to 41.16 main cpu and 2.00 to 2.61 on the remote Display CPU and it is way more stable. This might not be the latest i don't know but it seems stable.
Was super easy to do. Hope this can help someone that is struggling.
Please note this firmware is for the VMiii 5kv Offgrid inverter with the Screen on the bottom left side of the Inverter box see image attached i believe the same as the kodak inverters.
I accept no responsibility for you bricking your inverter, this is used at your own risk.
If i can do it i am sure you can.

Remote Panel Firmware Upgrade SOP20190819.pdf Remote Panel_Reflash_MCU(02.61).rar VMIII reflash_ver41.16.7z

For anyone interested. I am not sure if i am allowed to do this but i finally got firmware from the actual factory in Taiwan that manufactures my specific unit. Its the VMiii 5kv unit with 48volt battery (I also have a Pylontech 3000 battery connected to it with no communication issues. )
I had constant issues with unit resetting stored settings and fan always on issues. I got the latest firmware from the factory for the Display unit and the Main CPU firmware.
They were very professional and quick to assist me after the local Company did not do much to assist, they did eventually respond but still did not give me the correct info.
After updating both the Main Firmware and the Display firmware my unit is way more stable and quieter. No fans running 24/7. I upgraded from 41.03 to 41.16 main cpu and 2.00 to 2.61 on the remote Display CPU and it is way more stable. This might not be the latest i don't know but it seems stable.
Was super easy to do. Hope this can help someone that is struggling.
Please note this firmware is for the VMiii 5kv Offgrid inverter with the Screen on the bottom left side of the Inverter box see image attached i believe the same as the kodak inverters.
I accept no responsibility for you bricking your inverter, this is used at your own risk.
If i can do it i am sure you can.

Remote Panel Firmware Upgrade SOP20190819.pdf Remote Panel_Reflash_MCU(02.61).rar VMIII reflash_ver41.16.7z

For anyone interested. I am not sure if i am allowed to do this but i finally got firmware from the actual factory in Taiwan that manufactures my specific unit. Its the VMiii 5kv unit with 48volt battery (I also have a Pylontech 3000 battery connected to it with no communication issues. )
I had constant issues with unit resetting stored settings and fan always on issues. I got the latest firmware from the factory for the Display unit and the Main CPU firmware.
They were very professional and quick to assist me after the local Company did not do much to assist, they did eventually respond but still did not give me the correct info.
After updating both the Main Firmware and the Display firmware my unit is way more stable and quieter. No fans running 24/7. I upgraded from 41.03 to 41.16 main cpu and 2.00 to 2.61 on the remote Display CPU and it is way more stable. This might not be the latest i don't know but it seems stable.
Was super easy to do. Hope this can help someone that is struggling.
Please note this firmware is for the VMiii 5kv Offgrid inverter with the Screen on the bottom left side of the Inverter box see image attached i believe the same as the kodak inverters.
I accept no responsibility for you bricking your inverter, this is used at your own risk.
If i can do it i am sure you can.

Remote Panel Firmware Upgrade SOP20190819.pdf Remote Panel_Reflash_MCU(02.61).rar VMIII reflash_ver41.16.7z

Yes, but I'm not sure you're getting the fact that the firmware actually reprograms the EEPROM value for setting 02 to do this. So when you set it back again, you're undoing what the BMS has done, and it will undo what you've done soon anyway.
OK, that's weird. I can't see the back to battery voltage setting changed in the new King firmware, so I'd say that is something that they've decided wasn't a good idea (or was always a typo or something). It sounds like you'll need a new pair of firmwares to sort this out. I'm not aware of any available for download for the VM III, so you'll have to talk to your supplier.
Meanwhile, don't bother changing the settings, apart from setting 13 so you can get back to battery mode. And setting 01 to SBU if that was changed (I can't see why it would be though).