hoohloc

Every where I have been, so far, they told me the same thing. Thought there might be a place where they have bigger sizes. I actually need an 80A one but wanted to try the 63A if I could find it

Hi Guys, I just DIY ed fuse box and used 32A Ceramic DC fuses (10x38) and one just blew. I'm looking at changing all my fuses to 63A but I can't seem to get those in 10x38. Does anyone know where I could get 50A or 63A 10x38 fuses? Please assist

@87 Dream did you get the surge protection from Voltex? I'm busy planning to construct my own combiner box too

Change your existing geyser element with a 1.5Kw Geyserwise PTC element. That way you can have your geyser ON the whole day and then Install Paloma 26L/m gas geyser in parallel with the electric geyser so that you can have instant hot water in the morning or when it is cloudy. If your electric geyser is well insulated, you will hardly use any gas heating because the gas water heater is only used to boost the temperature of water from your electric geyser if goes below 50 deg cels. I have the same set up and no complaints, just need to get my geyser blanket ON. All the pipes are insulated. I have had this for a week now and I'm impressed

If your fw is 500.07, then you need a straight cable. 12345678 to 12345678. Program 05 set to LI and 36 set to L02. My two inverters worked perfectly well with this for the past year and I had the same fw. connect to the inverter and battery and then re-boot everything. switch off the batteries, AC power to the inverters and wait for few seconds and then power on again

There is only one correct cable to use with Pylontech US3000C, US2000 or UP5000. It is the same cable that we have been discussing. One end of the cable, do not touch, leave it as PIn 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8. Then the other end of the cable, crimp the RJ45 with Pin 8,7,3,4,5,6,2,1. Note that at the end where you crip an RJ45, pin 1,2 is swapped with Pin 8,7. Program 05, select LI and when program 36 pops up, select L04 for Pylontech so that your charge current will be according to your UP5000. In this threat, the OP suggested a straight cable, meaning Pin1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 one end and Pin1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 on the other end. This works with fw 500.07 and older and program 36 has to be L02 but it limits your charge current to 25A. This issue has been fixed and other issues and to get you Pylon batteries to communicate well with fw 500.09 upwards, you need the cross cable. If you do not come right, just select US2 in program 05 and do not use BMS. there must be something wrong that you are doing but it is hard to know what it is.

Program 5 set to LI and program 36 to L04

Is your inverter Growatt SPF5000TL? if that is the case, you have to use RS485 on the inverter and BMS on the Battery. If you still have a problem, swop the cable around ( swop the batter end and connect that to the inverter and te inverter end to the battery) Dip switch is 1000 for master battery if using US2000B or C or B plus, US3000B. If Using US3000C, the dip switched have been inverted, so you will have to try 0111 or 0001.

Pin 6 stays at Pin 6, do not cross that one. You only cross the last two wire (Pin 7 & 8 ) with the first two (Pin 2 & 1 ). all other cables stays the same. leave them as straight wires

The 4-20 Error is BMS/Coms error. check your cable that the last two pins and crossed with the first two pins on one end. The rest of the wires should remain straight

Family of 4 plus the house keeper, but morning showers is only for the school kids, +-5min shower and around half filled bath. Wife and I are working from home, so we shower during the day with hot water from the electric geyser, Gas geyser doesn't switch on when the water from electric geyser is above 50 deg celcs. So, we basically use the gas water heater for the two kids

finally managed to get to do the installation of the gas heater. I must say, I'm happy with the convenience of instant hot water on the taps. Using this as a boost to my already existing electric geyser with a 1.5kw geyserwise PTC element. The test was done today with the electric geyser off. will monitor the performance from tomorrow and see how long the two 48kg bottles will last

Today while busy with the installation of gas geyser, I decided to change the Anode. The geyser if fairly new, only four years old, but the Anode is badly chowed by the rust

@Johan-Henry what firmware version do you have on your inverters? I have changed Program 36 to ptl 04 now and testing. So far I have see the current go over 25A, max 28A . That's a slight improvement

I can't remember how to set the address of the US3000c, but one needs to be a master. Hook them up with the supplied links, set the dipswitches of Master to 1000 and slave to 0000. if that doesn't work, change the master dipswitch to 0001 while leaving the slave at 0000. If this doesn't work, invert the settings try 0111 for master and 1111 for slave

Maybe I should wait a bit and get more details from @Iss . Not sure if he is using BMS, he said his setting on setting 05 is USE

it looks like that.

Now this is interesting

I have 0.5C batteries and I'm not under spec, even when I was still running two of them with the two 5Kw inverters, I was still not underspec. I spec my batteries according to my load. If your essential load is only LED lights and a TV, one Pylontec US2000 will be more than enough because you will never draw more than 25A. Having a 10Kw inverter doesn't mean you have to get over 10Kwh battery to match that. That is wrong, the correct way is to look at the load that you want powered by batteries when you have power cuts and size your batteries according to that. And when you have the grid, if the battery is not capable of supplying your load, the inverter will draw from the grid or from PV. 1C battery is a nice thing to have, but it is not really a necessity if you plan/design your system well. But I guess we all have different opinions when it comes to this topic

Hi bro, was responding to to @Buyeye about the 0.5C and 1C comment, don't stress, you are not rushing to discharge your battery

To discharge at 1C, you will have to switch on your stove, oven, geyser, aircon, kettle, microwave and all other appliances in the house.. lol. And doing that, you will never run throughout the night with that battery. I bet you will be on eskom in less than two hours Why on earth will anyone want to rush to discharge the battery beats me, it doesn't make sense. 1C story will never make sense to me. With only 9.6Kwh at 0.5C, I run my house through out the night.

If the two Inverters are working fine, I would advice you not to update the firmware. If it ain't broke, don't fix it

The thing I hate about racks is the heat build up if they do not have fans and not in temp controlled room. My batteries are in the garage and it is already hot in there, so using a rack will mean my battery temps will be high which in turn will accelerate the deterioration. I find racks are better suited in server rooms where you have aircondition. But this is just my opinion

Good value for money

What I did, I installed a relay, this one (https://hager.com/uk/products/h/epn525-latching-relay-2nc2no-230v), the two NO contacts are wired to my stove and Geyser. Then one N/C contact is wired to pilot light. The relay is mounted in my DB and the pilot light is below the DB. The Coil of the relay is wired directly to my incoming supply, grid/Eskom. When grid drops, the relay switch off and disconnect the stove and geyser so that they can not run from batteries and the pilot light gets switched ON to indicate that there is no grid supply. When you are in the kitchen, you will automatically see that there is loadshedding when the clock on the oven is OFF. So no one is allowed to use the kettle, microwave or dishwasher if there is no sun