Terminal3k

Yes. But I should not have to do that. Looks like Synsyk is cutting corners Saving R80 on a R25k plus inverter seems pretty short sighted.

My consulting rate is R1000/hr, with a R5/KM travel fee. Payable in advance if you want me to visit
 
From your FB Page and website: (https://www.ecommauctions.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/E-Comm-Auctions-Terms-and-Conditions-buyers.pdf) - Established in 2020
Your website domain was only registered in 2021... curious - https://coza.net.za/cgi-bin/whois.sh?Domain=ecommauctions&Enter=Enter
This 2010/2011 Takealot/BoB story, lol. Just LOL
You have 8k Bidders, but ONE single Google Review, I wonder why?
Here's an example of one of your fans on Facebook, one "Amy Johnston" - https://web.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100073256284388
Every single post of her profile is for  "giveaways". I'm sure she and others are completely real people who only post about giveaways and nothing else
 
You did dodge the important question. Who is doing the aftersales support for FiveStar, and is there a local repair center. Do you keep spare parts inventory? Is that available for purchase by end users or installers?

I saw this post a few weeks back so checked my Sunsynk 5K temps, they were regularly over 50°C, even reaching 58 occasionally.
About a week ago I installed 2 x 92mm 12vdc fans below the heatsink blowing up. I have the fans connected to a smart switch which I control from Home Assistant.
I've set it to turn the fans on when the inverter (using the "Radiator" temp) temp reaches 45°C and turns off the fans when the temp drops back below the 45°C for 5 minutes. I also have a wall mounted 220v fan (like a desk fan but mounted to the wall) in the garage connected to the same smart switch, I figure moving some of the hot garage air around would be useful too...
Since setting this up my inverter temp now seldom hits 46.5°C regardless of air temp (air temp has been over 30°C in the past week), definite improvement.
I have bought spare 92mm fans to replace the current ones when they fail...

the filter will slow the dust build-up but best to keep spare fans around to replace as they will fail at some point...
unless you want to start messing around inside the inverter trying to find 12VDC it's easier to just connect to the fans to a 12VDC power supply.
I've just recently setup 2 x 92mm PC fans below the heat sink, using a simple 12VDC PSU but I've got the PSU on a smart switch and using Home Assistant to monitor the inverter's radiator temp and turn the fans on/off as needed...
Here's a post that started about the benefits of using fans...
 
 

I think there were a glitch in the matrix
 

The basis of this does use the voltage / frequency. The output is then On of Off that you can use. Its just another way of achieving the same

You could also create a threshold sensor that will then give you a binary sensor with ON / Off based on the grid frequency / voltage

trigger: - platform: numeric_state entity_id: sensor.sunsynk_grid_frequency for: hours: 0 minutes: 0 seconds: 5 below: 49 id: power-off  

Yes you would - that would be best in order to maintain stability. 

Once you get both systems up and running you can follow this guide >> https://solar-assistant.io/help/home-assistant/setup
Ensure your MQTT broker is working on HA first then you should be able to get the mqtt messages from SA

Thanks, I will look at that for an option. Hoping to pick up a second hand pi for cheaper. 
I'll see what I can find. 

They serve similar but distinct functions. You can have SA alone but that won't allow you to do automations. You can monitor your inverter and change settings from a web / mobile app. You could also have HA alone and that would allow you to control lights, speakers etc but you wouldn't know what your solar / inverter system is doing. Having them both allows you to then do automations based on what your solar is doing

I went with 12 x JASolar 540W panels (two strings of 6) because they fit the available roof space better. I couldn't get three rows of 460W panels and two rows of larger 540W panels in landscape orientation both maximized the area covered as well as reduced the cost of the mounting kit. The string voltages are only 240V so it may not be in the max efficiency range of the Sunsynk 8KW MPPT controllers but I really don't feel that it is such a big issue. Weather plays a far bigger role than MPPT efficiency curves. Just use what fits your roof layout and stay within the electrical specs.
If a manufacturer came along with a 30% efficient panel then sure, that would be a game changer but at the moment solar PV panel effiencies are so close to each other it makes little sense to pick the biggest panels one can buy simply because it sounds better.

I dont have programming knowledge, but it seems that there are guides available for people wanting to setup different things in HA.  I am borrowing the pi 3 for the next few months from a friend. So I will see if I can get HA integrated to view and change inverter things.  If I can get it to work, then I will use the SA pi for HA.

These are the people that activated it for me:
[email protected] 
Even though I have a sunsynk, they did it. I did take about 10 emails though... 

My hubble AM2 needed a firmware update to get it to 100% SOC.  Hubble also suggested draining the battery to zero then charging again... but thats what caused your issue....

My hubble AM2 was 78Ah, after firmware it went to 105ah. I called hubble and they said its meant to be 105ah. Somewhere someone is not telling the truth, because i bought my hubble AM2 as a 110ah

I checked the solarman temp compared to SA and SA is reporting the DC temperature... 

This reeks of a rebadged/repackaged AM-2. The AM-2 with the new firmware as a new product as they couldn't continue to sell their 5,5kW AM-2 with stated 110A/h that was then reduced to 100A/h after the Firmware update.
 

I'm guessing the installer needs to take responsibility to get this sorted?

Hi @Gambit,
I second all of @Leshen's points, with some extra comments.
1. Batteries - The Size/Value (Amps) of disconnect & Fuses is important. Recommend 100A per 5kW of battery capacity. Calc = 5000W/50V = 100A
2. Earth Bond - Can be installed inside of SS. My relay has a nice red LED, so status is visable. Your DB should also have 2 (LED) indicators, 1 if Grid Supply is present (mine is red), and 1 if Inverter supply is present (mine is green).
3. Check
4. Check. I prefer STEEL (fixed & flexible) trunking for DC routes, and PVC for AC. 
5. See 4.
6. Earthing. Don't neglect. Put in the correct earthing equipment (incl. a measuring point) and if your sparky can't meassure because he doesn't have the right equiment (very expensive), maybe time to look elsewhere. I believe that spec is <10 Ohm. Mine was 161 Ohm (one earth rod), had to add 5 more rods in a 2 x 3 matrix and got it down to 1.0 Ohm. Pick below is of Sparky measuring RCD tripping current. (21 mA).
7. All test to be done twice. Once on-grid, and repeat for off-grid.

I went the SolarAssistant route to be able to do exactly that. Involves a bit of extra cost for the system, but negligible in the greater scheme. Allows me to view inverter data real-time (and not delayed as on my old Sunsynk dongles) as well as make changes to my setup from anywhere in the world

If you look at their brochure (https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/uploads/1/3/5/0/135079623/hubble_lithium_am-2_a4_pamphlet.pdf), it is marketed as a 100Ah and not 110ah... 

They are marketing the battery at 5.5kW and not 5.5kWh, so this opens up a new door / discussion.

5.5kW is the discharge rate and not the capacity of the battery (kWh) if we getting technical and using Google as the fact sounding board 🤣 (forgive me if it is incorrect). If this is the true, this is still false advertising as they market the battery as 1.0C discharge which is 100A and at 51v, that would equate to 5.1kW and not 5.5kW... So even then it is mis-representation.

If we consider that they meant it to be kWh, the same math would still apply and result in a capacity of 5.1kWh

Unfortunately no matter which way you look at it, their marketing is false.

My hubble AM2 was 78Ah, after firmware it went to 105ah. I called hubble and they said its meant to be 105ah. Somewhere someone is not telling the truth, because i bought my hubble AM2 as a 110ah

thats what i did for my entire system. bought the inverter, battery and panels myself. Then got someone to install for me