Moffat

@Scorp007 I concur with you there as well as share the disappointment shared by @TaliaB about the installer not advising the client correctly. Reason I was now mentioning the other 6-7 x 545w panels is because they're currently on promotion and this may help @GreenFields to salvage his installation and get some panel efficiency.

Only issue is the balancing act between these particular panels being available "on a promotion" vs 460w panels likely to be more expensive per watt. Thanks for your response.

@GreenFields if @Daan Meyer got 7 of these, what's your take (see attached screenshot), which would then be put on the other Mppt?

It's normal for panels to underperform under hot conditions, also experienced it with my system yesterday going from generating 1.2kw down to 200w as temperatures went up and down. Extra panels will help and then you could end up with say about 3000w on each Mppt (total of 6000w in panels) and you'll generate more Pv. It seems from your current setup your panels are only running off one Mppt. In winter (when it's cooler), more panels will also definitely help as, if it's less cloudy, you'll generate more power from having more panels.

@zennomind the issue/answer is: 1. If the inverter has switched off the battery above the BMS cut-off voltage, it should then switch back on when there's enough minimum PV for the inverter to run (minimum Pv required for Inverter startup). The other side of the equation is if Pv being generated is going to be equal to that which the fridge is using as well as inverter self-consumption, it won't make much a dent to the battery by way of recharging it or if your panels are producing 150w vs Self consumption of Inverter at 50w + Fridge consumption at 125w then you have a deficit of (-25w) {these are thumbsuck numbers}, which would and should have been going into the battery. The other hopeful side is that fridges don't run continuously, so when it's not running then hopefully your minimum generation can at least recharge the battery during the Pv generation time from morning to evening. No one can really give you an accurate calculation as also Pv generation is not linear and at either constant peak or constant rate, hence my erring on the side of just being optimistic and hoping for the best. The other side of the coin is once you measure exactly what is going on now (Pv generation vs consumption) and you go on away and it's not positive, it'll leave you worried all the time you're away and you cannot change anything then, anyway but just be miserable with worry. Also as once you're away, you may have days or times of peak generation or limited generation, which you are not able to predict accurately in the future. So eat as much as you can to avoid losing too much food in the fridge if worst case happens and maybe reduce increase the fridge temperature minimum to an acceptable level so it cuts off earlier and keeps things cool.

@zennomind I think if you can set your parameters as suggested here by @Bobster. before going, should be okay, touch-wood & no manual restarting of the battery would be necessary over the course of your time away.

That is also true, the hope and secret faith is that it's not so in this case.

I think, long story-short... carry-on regardless and touch-wood, all will be well. As @Scorp007 most batteries will restart after a certain minimum voltage has been reached if they switch off and inverter too. Happy holidays & don't fret about it and enjoy yourself. Whatever will be, will be and you can't change it once you're gone, so might as well enjoy yourself.

Could you provide answers to the following questions: Is the inverter or battery running anything else? If you have gone for 2-3 days, have you needed to run a generator to top-up your battery during this season, am assuming you're in winter presently? I assume the fridge has stock, so you're not able to turn it off? Do you change (lower) the temperature controls on your fridge in winter generally or not?

Happy days with the Blue Machine... find artwork for the MultiPlus-II here which you may print on vinyl for your use if you can. MultiPlus-II vector.pdf

Greetings All and Happy Holidays. Wasn't sure where to post this. When getting a CoC (Certificate of Compliance), I seem to have noticed a few installations that don't have labels on the installations at points such as: The inverter The battery disconnect Some DB boards Isolators The Pv Combiner box Generator changeover switch etc Is there anyone who may have knowledge of what the regulations are with Eskom as well as general various municipalities in SA? In the UK, these requirements are quite stringent in some counties and in Zimbabwe, the local authority is quite lax except "sometimes" when it comes to having a Generator changeover switch or DB Board. I've posted some labels with this thread. Your thoughts forumites.

@maqsmaqs I think you're getting a lot of good advise. My only two cents is you should get: 1. A 48v System, with your budget you can begin with 5kVa system; 2. Get a good, reputable, popular inverter and battery (Sunsynk, Axpert) which will be scalable in the future when you wish to expand; 3. Temper your expectations - especially given that you are starting without panels (any system will only presently help you with loadshedding, but may not reduce your electricity bills); 4. Get a good and reputable installer - this is critical!; 5. Get multiple quotes from installers as well, reason being you can buy your own stuff but if you have an issue that requires warranty and repairs or replacements you're on your own and installer may not help much as s/he has not supplied the hardware. It may and will be cheaper to buy stuff yourself but in case of emergency you may be all alone; 6. Prepare to get: a) Panels b) Solar geyser c) Gas stove... as water heating and cooking are the greatest uses of energy. 7. If you can avoid getting a very big battery bank, it will help as when you want to expand, it becomes easier to expand with smaller manageable-size banks than say 10kW or bigger as the battery bank will have to be the same size, at least with most manufacturers except Pylontech. 8. Also ensure you read up on a lot of information and also ask questions on this forum and to installers to educate yourself as at times you may get "seemingly contradictory opinions". 9. Don't forget to change and manage your energy consumption habits and even appliances or normal lights to LED lights & S.O.S (Switch off Switches)! All the best! Welcome to the "Solar rabbit hole".

Not sure what Inverter you're using but here's a Vector image you may want use. The PDF format has two pages first page is one you can use to 3-D Print. There's a type of material we use in printing called "Forex" it's a lot more sturdier (3mm) and a lot more robust than Corex over the course of time... for your consideration. 😁 System Display.pdf

You've summed it up well. For me as an enthusiast, I enjoy learning from different people and installers and yes, each manufacturer will have their own recommendations more so which will impact on what warranty they're willing to then stand by or what "marketing" language they're willing to use to entice additional sales for their products as well.

@Scorp007 yeah interesting screenshot here, also some then say it's not always good to keep your battery at 100% SoC all the time and at some point I even figured that may I should set my SoC to get to 100% every 2-3days and the rest of the time to get it to run up to 95% and have maximum DoD at 60-70%. What are your thoughts, would this be a nice sweet spot to increase battery life?

@h4ns3n 😪 I feel your pain. It's a painful balancing act with funds not permitting and wanting to have a kit that you can build up over time. When you look at online prices and those quoted by installers and you add up installer's markups' it definitely looks unfair. But as many (who are installers have said), the grief comes through when you have an issue that requires backup and warranty and now you have to deal with product manufacturers directly. Installers have been in these murky waters and have developed relationships over years with various product manufacturers or an individual at the manufacturer who they deal with for quick resolutions and feedback, which a "sparky" will never have. Sadly also on the other side, my first install, I had "a reputable company" put in electrical cables on the DC side of my install and no MC-4 connectors, but just insulation tape to join cables. I survived for years but it's only when I was now wanting to move my inverter and got someone else to relook at my system that I learnt that I was shafted big time and yet paid good money. It's painful, so I've been on both ends of the shafting stick. Load shedding is frustrating and infuriating and prices keep going up and am glad this forum has some good guys to give us wisdom. Get a small system, even one to run lights and a fridge and then save up, get a reputable company or installer from here who can take up all the flack and sort you out with warranty issues and do it slowly or get the installer you choose to sell you the products, park it and buy stuff in bits and bobs till you can pull finger on complete install or negotiate terms. Down the road, it'll give you peace of mind. All the best and keep us posted.

True, it is easy... but "some" installers always want to take the "mickey" and shortcuts. Sometimes they even bridge Essentials & Non-essentials at the DB and some end users are non-the-wiser, till there's issues.

@Scorp007 @Thunderdolt I keep worrying about this issue of location of CT coil and keep getting various schools of thought. It's not always possible to have inverter close to the DB, which seems to be @HenryJ's and my situation resulting in having to need a long CT coil cable. I've seen some installers put it at the input of the Inverter which seems to be wrong to me as per my research. So what's the way forward because issues of backfeed and inaccuracies will occur.

Hi Jason please can I have urgently the Powerforum Store Bank Account verification letter as per sample attached... i have someone in the bank who needs it for purposes of tracing transfer. NOT FNB online trace.

Thanks @Energy-Jason going to the bank tomorrow morning and will revert. Wish this had been communicated to me earlier via email or whatsapp.

My experience in East Africa (Burundi) was also similar with voltage fluctuations happening every 10-15seconds and to protect even Tvs and computer servers and backup drives had to buy an AC stabilizer such as this: https://www.ato.com/voltage-stabilizers. Saved me tonnes of headaches and costs on equipment replacements.

Will do. Much obliged.

No they have not contacted us via whatsapp in relation to funds not yet reflecting. The person being spoken to (Wimpie) was talking about waiting for delivery, 2-3 days after funds clearance but never mentioned funds not having cleared. Will go to the bank tomorrow to confirm what's happening. Will revert via direct PM once we've come back from the bank tomorrow morning. Thanks for the feedback.

Powerforum Store @Powerforum Store could please you respond to this issue as well as me having bought a 5kW Inverter and sent (PoP) Proof of Payment on the 15th of December, 2023 way before your date of having an annual shutdown... now there's no response from your landlines, meaning my issue (delivery) is likely or may only be attended to next year. This is disheartening also coming across a forumite who has also not been responded to. By the way @DocFrank did you ever get a resolution from the store?

Okay, thanks for the response.