SilverNodashi

Do you know if this has been done yet? As matter of interest, have you tried running this unit without batteries in grid-tie only mode, and turning a meter back?

Keep in mind, on a 12V system you need thicker cables to carry the same joules (i.e. Watt = Volt * Amp). To run a 1000W load, as example, off 12V you need 83A! It's only 42A over 24V. Then as your batteries are charged you need a few Ampere less, and a few more as the batteries run flat, i.e. 1000W = 90A / 11V or 45A/22V. Then, the more Ampere you withdraw from the battery the quicker it drains, not not linearly. Look at Pheukert's law. Simply put, the less strain you put on your batteries, the longer they will last and the longer they will run. On your questions: 1. Flooded batteries need maintenance, yes, but if you are up to it (or, rather, if your parents are prepared to follow the maintenance procedures), they could easily outlast any battery for years to come. And you will gain back your investment after a few years. 2. If there's no eskom backup, not really. Perpahs you could use the dry contacts to switch off a contactor in the DB board, and thus cutting the power off. 3.It all depends on you / your budget / your backup needs. 2 x 12V/200Ah = 24V/200Ah. 4x 12V/100Ah = 24V/200Ah. 4x 12V/200Ah = 24v/400Ah. More batteries equate using more cable, and could lead to more failure as well. If you need 4+ batteries, make sure they're from the same batch / age. Don't mix old and new batteries. 4. Yup. It's automatic Most inverter brands have this option. IF you have this option, you don't need to worry about Point #2, unless there's frequent power failures at night and your battery bank is too small to cope with the load.

I did offer to help converting your code to a format that can be read on Linux. You didn't want to.

The samples I had are also from "rested" batteries, or so the author claims. Your examples, at least, show both to be 12.10V @ 50% or 48.4V for 48V banks. I do realize these figures are derived from taking the full state, which most companies claim to be 12.7V (let's use a common voltage as example), and then the flatline which is either 10.5, 10.7, 10.9 or 11.1, and then calculate 10 steps (0%, 10%, 20%, etc) or 100 steps (for more accurate readings). But are the empty values guessed, or somehow accurately measured?

Hi, Can anyone please supply me with an accurate battery state of charge table? The reason I'm asking, is that I have found quite a few of these charts, with conflicting values. For example, most of the charts say a 12V battery is full at 12.7V (or 12.73 / 12.79?). Some background: A remote solar powered electric gate has recently started giving problems, where it doesn't keep the charge I thought it would. It has a GSM controller and I can query the device status via SMS and at 18:00 the battery level was at 13.00V. At 20:00 it was at 12.9V. At 00:00 it was 12.77V And this morning at 07:00 it was 12.58V (85%?). Yet, on Sunday morning the battery was too flat (10.6V) to open the gate. According to some charts, 0% is at 11.2V, others say 10.9V. This is on a Lead 27A Crystal battery, connected to a 50W solar panel + PWM charger. I'm am considering adding a 20W LED flood light and day/nigh camera on the gate as well and need to know, more accurately how the battery performs - for future planning. This led me to think, how do I know the exact level of my 48V bank (on an Axpert inverter + 3Kw PV), or our 600A/48V bank + 16Kw inverter + 9Kw PV on the farm? So, which chart is correct? Where do I draw the fine line between running the batteries at 50%, or 40%? Or 60%? For example, This table (common table which is used widely) shows that 50% is 12.06V: This table shows 25% is 12.06V:

so, how's the victron doing?

Not yet.

I'm with TTT on this one. It seems one can get Lead Crystal batteries at the same price, yielding the same amount of duty cycles. They're easier to get hold of, work with more inverters and can be recycled easier. Re-read: cash back in your pocket.

/subscribing as I also want to put battery balancers on my 6V / 48V battery bank

There we go! For about a Dollar-a-day you can track the sun

sounds fun and well worth a try! Which 3.2V cells are you getting?

At least you now how what your optimal mounting angle is

I wonder if 45 degrees celcius is enough though. Last December was the hottest in 100 years, or so, and I'm sure a glass of water could have boiled on some metal roofs. But it would be good to see this on a graph, do some decent comparisons. If only I had enough equipment to run a parallel comparison. And enough roof space with ample sun.

It would actually be a good idea to graph the energy consumption, along with temperatures (probably just below the panel) to see how it performs.

No, not aged. Just comparing the new and old technology.

Do keep us posted!

The flash procedure is very very easy. Just make sure your laptop battery can last about 30 minutes since the inverter will be off during the flash period. And unhook the comms cable if there's more than 1 inverter

Can you perform the same temp tests ( I don't have a FLIR camera) with both an old and new plug, with the same load?

Thanx, I'll see how those scripts work.

There's your problem, right there! Didn't yo mamma tell you to neva mulplug a multiplug? Seriously though, don't do it! Rather run another cable into another wall socket and multi plug of that.

We have a Bosh KGN46A and we couldn't be happier with it. It draws about 100W/hr, often less.

And fairly easy to find at many electronic shops

Github? URL?

That's not good. I was about to recommend it for a client... Please keep us posted.

I would like to use a Rasberry Pi (or any dev board with Linux on) for this as well. Do tell what you need and let's see what we can share?