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Everything posted by Buyeye

  1. Sorry I forgot to add that voltage will depend on the load, the voltage on the above post are for loads less than 20% if your load is above 50% then 20% DoD might be 46 volts.
  2. @shawn battery first in parameter 1 is also SBU it will use solar and battery to power the load and discharge the batteries to the set point at night. The wording is confusing but that is the setting I'm using. I have the bms connected with my batteries and back2ac set 20% =48 volts and back to battery/solar set at 30%( I don't know what voltage that is I would try 49-49,5 volts.) You do have a large pv array at 10kw.
  3. When the bms is connected it overrides any settings you manually put in so it will draw from utility if if sees that the batteries need a top up or balancing. If it was the bms drawing too much current causing the tripping you will have to set a high'ish DoD like discharge to 40% to prevent the bms kicking in to top up the battery from the utility.
  4. @Antonio de Sa My guess is that the default setting for the bms which is 80 amp AC times 2 inverters is too high and causing the trip. You could try turning on one inverter at a time.
  5. Hi you might have seen my posts about growatt inverters. I was powering my 3kw geyser element with my 5kw growatt inverter and about 6kw pv panels which works on sunny days but sucks ass when it's not. So I invested in a heat pump got one installed by local guys here in the midlands. I'm very impressed. I never overload my inverter anymore, it takes 30 minutes to an hour to heat a 200l Geyser to 55celcius compared to 2 to 3 hours with a traditional element which was set to 60 Celsius. I can also power the tiny 1200 watts the heat pump uses with batteries without any issues. I have 10kw storage. I would recommend it to everyone.
  6. Gigantic blue ups's are awesome too when budgeted for.
  7. My theme song is save dat money by Lil Dicky. I'm gonna suggest that getting a luxpower/deye/solis hybrid inverter with your pylontechs would allow you to fit the panels at the same time due to the price difference. A pv solar system generating electricity seems to make much more sense than a gigantic ups. Anyways welcome to the forum.
  8. Hi I'm not following why you need a 8kw hybrid or grid tied inverter since you have no interest in feeding back to the grid. There are many 5kw axperts some of them can blend pv and grid. We don't know if you have one of those. We also don't know if you have 100ah or 200ah agm batteries. Also if you must upsize the inverter the axpert max comes in 7,2kw and 8kw varieties and it can blend pv and grid. It cannot feedback to the grid which is the appeal to some.
  9. @Federico you are supposed to change to battery first every night to discharge the batteries so that they are empty in the morning or at 20%. According to the picture of your SoC you never discharged your battery. It is tedious bit you could use the shinephone app to change to battery first when you hear the sunset beep. You could also try keeping it in battery first over 24 hours and see where your system is lacking batteries or panels. You have a potential 13kwh pv production and 7kw storage which seems well balanced if you move some loads to daytime to use the other 6kw. I would just try battery first(sbu) and see how long the system lasts before it switches back to utility. If it never switches then you are good.
  10. SUB switches off the PV when batteries are fully charged. SBU seems to work better when batteries charge quickly. SBU works best on undersized systems and on cloudy days With the amount of sun we are getting we are all gonna need inverters with grid feedback and for our municipalities to allow grid feedback. My municipality still sends people to read meters so I have been avoiding getting an inverter with grid feedback to avoid them arriving to see the meter spinning in the wrong direction. Anyway to your question the sun rises earlier ,batteries charge up earlier. My suggestion is to change to SBU.
  11. That gives you a potential 15kwh on sunny days, the battery will take 3,5kw if you set setting 12 to 5%. Setting 13 to 40% or lower my inverter doesn't allow lower than 40%. Your system is closer to oversized for your loads which look like the occasional microwave usage. Unless you have some aircons to turn on you could set setting 1 to battery first and see how long the battery lasts you with dod of 95%(5/6% on setting 12.) That will help you decide how many more batteries to get. If you decide to get aircons(they are a great way to heat and cool a home since sliced bread) instead of batteries then SUB will be fine. Your pylontech has the best DoD. Try and see if your inverter will allow 5% cutoff setting 21 then set setting 12 one percent higher.
  12. @Ismail K it depends on the size of your system. SUB(blend)(the one that shows solar first and Utility first on the screen) prioritizes the load and uses excess pv to charge the batteries. It works well with undersized systems. Let's use Derek's system stats he has 6 X 330 watt panels = 1980watts X 5 hours= 9900watthours. So Derek only needs to ensure he drains his battery overnight since he has 10kw batteries. The only annoying thing is that he has to change manually to battery first at sunset and back to SUB mode at sunrise. With this setup his system should give the perfect bell curve everytime the sun shines. @Derek KritzingerThe only downside to SUB is that if you forget to discharge the batteries it will switch off your mppt when the batteries are full(the charge light stops blinking pv switches off). If your system is oversized then the best setting is battery first. You just need to play with settings 12 and 13. @Ismail K how many panels and batteries do you have? And what are your settings 12 and 13?
  13. I love how it says off-grid inverter on top but it's currently functioning as a grid tied inverter. This is the first time I've seen someone using it like this even though I had read that it could do it, it was nice to see it. I'm liking it even more.
  14. @Derek KritzingerSetting 12 should be 20% or lower if the inverter will allow it. I think the shoto lithiums are 80 dod which is set as back to ac at 20%. You can also set setting 13 lower if you have no heavy loads, I currently have it at 40% but I have my geyser connected so If I'm not going to be at home I change setting 1 to SUB. I change to battery first at sunset. It turns out the es is a hybrid and prefers SUB mode.
  15. I'm sorry you are correct, my issue is that I need to be in SBU mode to use the battery at night but SUB(hybrid mode) produces the best pv production. And there is no setting that automates this.
  16. My conclusion is that the inverter just can't multi task in SBU mode which is solved by SUB mode. Which is funny since it's an offgrid inverter.
  17. @Rclegg thanks for looking, my issue is the first dip at 10h30 that I had to fix by changing to SUB mode. I knew it would happen so I changed mode sooner than on the previous screenshots. If I stayed on SBU the pv production would have stayed on 3000 watts until the geyser went off. Then it would go up until batteries are charged.
  18. I didn't post any screen shots for the past 2 days as there was no sun at all this side. So today I waited till the geyser turned on to see if it would keep the solar where it was or reduce it to match the load. Now as you can see pv production is around 4000 watts before the geyser turns on but when then it drops down to 3000 watts to match the load. The blue part is where
  19. It sounds like an axpert type hybrid like mine. Not the 5G range. I have a thread in the inverter section where mine matches the load in SBU but works as advertised in SUB mode. The problem is that in SUB mode it counts the utility import same as pv when utility is much less like in this screenshot.
  20. Here is yesterday's screen shot to go with the SOC. It was very cloudy in the afternoon but you can see where the pv matches the load instead of following the bell curve.
  21. He already has an inverter, the cost of a new inverter with added panels and installation would be more than the cost of a heat pump. Heat pumps are more efficient appliances in heating homes and your geyser. They use much less electricity than older technologies. A 5kw geyser heat pump should peak at 1200watts which will be well within the capacity of his 5kw inverter. Since I connected my entire house to an offgrid inverter(axpert hybrid) I have realized that reducing my usage is much cheaper than trying to build a system power my house as is. A heat pump is more efficient. BTW I do not sell heat pumps just a guy trying to reduce his own usage and power his house in the face of unreliable electricity supply.
  22. Thanks for having a look @Achmat, here is a screen shot of my SOC for today. It's typical for most days. I've managed to get it as low as 20 % before the sun comes up without triggering a utility charge. I have the timer set to turn on the geyser at 10h30 which usually has my dyness powerbox f10 at around 70%. which is why I was hoping that the extra pv would charge the battery.
  23. Hi @Dragonmage the spf range is an offgrid inverter range which means you have to use it like you are offgrid or get 2 of them to give you the ability to power loads with a peak of 10kw. Even then 10kw is just 3 appliances that peak at 3kw like an electric kettle, toaster and hairdryer. Which is why if you are going offgrid you first have to look at more efficient appliances, using gas for cooking and even a solar geyser.
  24. Here is a screen shot from today. I feel like I'm losing a good 2-3kwh from this inverter behavior and it is motivating me to jump ship and join the Sunsynk bandwagon.
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