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Good day, This is the battery I bought: Hubble Battery I am bit worried concerning this battery. I bought it on the 20 February 2024 as my gel batteries were terrible. Got the electrician to come set it up and everything. I maybe used it 10 times or so as loadshedding actually disappeared for a bit. This battery has 6 lights that show battery level. So all 6 are always on basically since no loadshedding and usage. About a month or so ago I realized 1 light was off, I didn't pay to much attention as I rarely checked it. Last week I noticed 2 lights were off. I am very confused as to why this is losing battery life I presume if not even being used? or am I misreading the situation, I was thinking of calling the electrician to come out and check but just wanted to hear if anyone has experienced something like this before. I have attached pictures for the model and the lights I was talking about. Thank you

Was given different instructions by my battery OEM. Discharge each battery as individual Master to shutdown, one after the other. Then reconnect the BMS comms between the batteries and set your Master and slaves as per the manual. Now charge the batteries in parallel to full. That should sort the balance issue

Normally if the inverter only allowed 50A charging it might be set up to do so as if there was only 1 battery and not 3. Personally now that we don't have LS I would charge one by 1 and disconnect each one as it reaches 100% to charge the next one. Only then connect all 3. Remember to set the maximum charge/discharge to 50A when only 1 connected. Then back to 150A when all 3 are connected. Then do a discharge and see if they discharge at the same rate.

Hi all, I'm sitting with the issue of unequal charge on my 3 x Dyness BX51100's. This morning the SoC level reported by my inverter was 30%, 1 LED on the master(+/- 20%), 3 LEDs (+/-60%) on slave 1 and 2 LEDs (+/-40%) on slave 2. How would I go about in equalising the charge/discharge on all 3? Should I remove comms, charge each one on it's own to 100% and then reapply comms? I only started experiencing this issue after I changed the comms cables to the correct ones to correct max charge & discharge currents on the BMS. Prior to this, the inverter only allowed 50A max charge/discharge currents and not 50A x N, where N is number of batteries. Deye 8kW inverter 3 x Dyness BX51100, parallelled on a busbar 14 x 550W JA Solar panels

I'm using a EASUN ISolar-SMH-II-2.2K inverter as the power source in my camper. This seems to be a axpert mks clone, it can be configured with WatchPower software, etc. The camper does not have wifi, internet, etc. but I have suited a nice android tablet especially made for cars as my central radio set and navigation system. Now I want power data (solar and battery voltage, solar power, etc.) on this tablet as well. Off course I could install a RPi clone that connects to the inverter and collects data, stores it in a database, create nice graph's, but in fact I don't need that much. I consider adding a serial2bt adapter to have a virtual serial connection to my inverter. What I miss is a android app, that connects to that BT converter and queries data from the inverter, just like watchpower does. Is there any known product or homemade app out there? I found some posts on github regarding Axperts and BT, but it seems nobody really finished the work.

Personal 2c. Consider at own risk, all to be checked. 1. Will you have a solar geyser and gas hob also in the new home? Will you have more rooms, a pool, growing kids, aircon or anything that will cause you to outgrow your current needs for a 5kW inverter with 3.6kW of panels? If so, get a good grasp on the new usage first, and buy up if needs be with your preferred size system. 2. Which way is the roof pointing? All North? Will one MPPT be okay? Or will dual-MPPT be better? 3. Which Growatt inverter have you got? The SPF500? To be double-checked, but I don't think 12x550W panels are the best choice for that MPPT. You might need panels that operate at a higher current, say 16-17A like the Canadian Solar 600W. 4. If you can get by with a 5kW inverter, if roof is directed North, I'd keep the Growatt, make sure to select appropriate panels, and add one more 3kWh Pylontech battery.

Going to try to keep this brief. Moving into a new house that has a growatt and 2x pylontech 3kwh batteries. no solar. Having just did a full 5kw solar setup at my current home with luxpower sna5000, svolt 5wh rack mount battery and 8x 450w panels, I'm comfortable with the lux kit, and I'll probably go with that at the new place as well as pricing and value has won me over. I'll probably go for either : a. 2x lux sna5000, 2x 5wh batteries ( prob svolt or China), and 12x550w panels or b. 1x lun sna6000, 1x10kwh hina, and 12x550w panels. any other option I am foregoing? Should I keep the growatt and pylontech kit and just add panels at the new place? I might have a buyer for it, but if it makes more sense then I'll keep it and add panels then. Aim is to keep spend down, on both new setup and electricity bill going forward. currently I use barely 2kwh of eskom per day which is awesome ( geyser is solar, cooking is gas). but also not to have to spend more to redo things etc. do it sufficiently once. What are you opinions guys?

This is normal. When charging, the cells are at over 3.5V per cell, and when resting or lightly discharging, they are at 3.33V per cell. These correspond to 53V and 50V respectively for a 15S LFP battery like the Pylontechs.

No, shorting the opto coupler output is just a way of keeping the SG3525 running so that you can do tests on the bench. Just have +12V and - 12V supplied by bench power supplies, nothing on the battery terminals.

Adjust your setting 11 to say 22%. When you do find it disconnecting if you have grid charge it up to about 25%. It might be set not to use grid. If this problem happens every night use your timer to go to grid at a certain time. The switch off in the morning is because PV is still weak and then the battery is discharged again. Keep your load low in the morning until the battery is charged enough. More information like size of PV and number and size of battery will also help to give more help. Just my input to try and help.

Hi, I just want to know if the following is normal or not. When my battery get to 15% it disconnects. (no problem with that) Then as the sun comes up and the solar panels start charging the batteries, it will switch on the appliances and disconnects immediately again, as if there is not enough power, it keeps doing that a lot. Is there a setting to stop this connect/disconnect till there is enough power and only then allow power to the appliances. (for now I disconnect the main on the circuit breaker till it is on 16 or 17% SOC), but what if I am not at home. Thanks

@leelazarus First I have to admit I'm at home all day. I have an excellent custom-made monitoring system where I can basically see every single live value from my system. Using it, I managed to find the optimum charging value on my battery pertaining to cell voltage and cell temperatures. Obviously depending on weather conditions. There are days that are a bit overcast I may increase the charging current. My battery is a 5 KW LBSA, OEM recommends charging at 40 Amps, charging voltage to 56 V and float at 54 V I charge it at 25 Amps, bulk charging voltage 55.6 V, float 53.5 V. by about 11:00 AM the battery is showing 100 % SOC at 55,6 V and I float at 53. 5 V at that voltage my 16 cells are at resting voltage of 3.32 V I Found these to be the best settings for my battery. Today I reduced the charging voltage to 55 V and I got it to 96% Here with some info from my battery last 24 hours. Charging current and discharging current. Battery temps. Battery SOC kast two days

Hello, I have an Eco Worthy 24V 100Ah lifepo4 battery and a Vevor 3.5KVA inverter/charger system. I have tried to charge it at 35A and 20A rates with AC source, but after less than an hour, the charger drops the current down to 0-1A as if the battery were almost full, but it seems that the battery never gets charged well. The charge and floating voltages of the charger are set to 28.8V. The last time, the Vevor system charged it at 20A for only 50min and then goes down. The initial voltage of battery was 26.3V and, after charged it and leaving it for some time, the voltage was 27v disconnected. In addition, when I connected it back to the inverter system, after 15min the voltage dropped from 27 to 26,5v. The voltage vs SOC table of this lifepo4 battery is different for what I have seen in the forums and I've never been absolutely sure about the state of charge of the the battery Any idea of what is happening? why does the charger is not charging it for more time?

This is a warning to those kind folk out there that want to buy battery systems. I received a 100A JK bms connected to 16 100A cells for a very good price This comes from a reputable company in Pretoria. I have dealt with them regarding lead acid batteries and have not had any issues with them. But my goodness the lithium side of the business definitely needs some work. The bms was setup as follows. Cell OVP 2.7V SOC 100% 2.68 CELL OVPR 2.65 CELL UVPR 1.85 SOC 0% V 1.82 CELL UVP 1.8 I believe that if I leave the bms at these settings I will get to use about 20% of the battery and run it bellow the manufactures limits. This is just a warning to those out there wanting to go semi DIY Iike I am. After chatting with one of the members at the business I was given the "correct" settings and the password of 12345 (without the 6). That password obviously did not work lol. I was also informed that going outside the new specs that where given will invalidate my warranty. Needless to say I will be invalidating my warranty big time. Do not ask I will not mention the company. I will be using the settings as set out by Off grid garage on youtube Rant over

Hi, refer to this thread : 2. The protocol as per your inverter UI shows BMS - Pylon protocol Just check your settings on "Time of Use' Your current settings keep your battery at 100% 24/7 and do not allow for back-up ( perhaps your requirement was to keep the batteries at 100% all the time and not use them for supply during the night)

Tubular cells were, until recently, the best value for money. They have long cycle life, and can be completely refurbished (if you can still find a place that does it) at EOL. But they have a number of disadvantages: 1) They must be treated gently - to get the 3000 cycles advertised here, that is 20A max charge/discharge to 50% max DoD. Any more than that, and you reduce life. 2) They are heavy - 70kg per battery or 280kg for a 48V pack. 3) They require regular maintenance (water top-ups, equalising charge, SG checks, etc). 4) They produce a lot of hydrogen, so need to be very well ventilated, and should not be installed in the same place as the switchgear (spark risk).

@leelazarusI have my system running on US2 for close to three years and happy with the results. I actually like it that way as I can control charge voltage Etc... as @zsde says in the comment above you must make sure you set you voltage parameters as per Battery OEM recommendation. Parameter 19 bulk charge voltage, parameter 20 Float voltage, also very importante its parameter 2 charging current, set it as per OEM recommendation I charge mine quite a bit lower that the OEM value. Still get my battery to full charge by about 11:00 AM.

A good LA battery can last many years and cycles if not abused. From the start consider it a 100Ah battery as the proviso is the same as for most LA batteries, i.e 50% discharge, no more. 12V 3000 Cycles @ 50% DOD Now if one were to get 4 of these for a 48V system, then that would be 48V 100Ah usable. From a price perspective this is not such a bargain anymore as there are a couple of Lithium 48V 100Ah batteries in the market for about the same amount. And most Li battery's cycle life will not be affected if kept above a 20% DOD. For a single 12V application it's probably not a bad buy as a good 12V 100Ah Li could be up to double that price.

Does anyone have any experience with these batteries? Seems like a very good price if the 3000 cycles number is realistic. https://solarwarehousesa.com/products/conderenergy-tubular-200ah-battery-3000-cycles Conderenergy High Performance Solar Tubular 200AH Battery (Please note this battery can leak if it gets tilted ,we do not courier this item. Please collect or arrange your own courier at your own risk if this battery leaks please just refill it with distilled water) What is Tubular Battery? Tubular batteries are lead-acid batteries that are much larger than flat plate batteries. Tubular batteries are commonly seen in UPS and inverter systems. The tubular batteries have a positive plate nestled within a tube wrapped in cloth that holds its electrodes' power.

@zsde - Thanks you for the feedback. I had the battery type to Li and protocol 04 for the last few months and noticed that discharge issue.

You can use either. Only difference really is the preset values that will be applied when you select it. USE mode applies generic Lead Acid battery voltages and charge values. US2 applies generic LiFe values. You will have to set all your parameters after applying either. I have tested both although I run mostly Li-BMS protocol. The only real difference that I have noticed, and that is not consistent either, is that in USE mode, once your batteries are 100% they tend to stay at 100%, whilst in Li mode the Growatt algorithm starts the discharge by powering the Inverter from battery until the battery hits 95% at which stage it starts to charge again. Apply US2 and set your battery specs manually and monitor.

Good evening All, I have finally managed to play around with my settings on the inverter. So just some additional background. With my Growatt set to battery type Li and option 5 the battery every few days drops a bar without any load being applied (not sure if its the inverter drawing its power from the battery) but whats also interesting or weird is that without any load the inverter would go into error 04 and then switch of eventhough the battery is not low. I have reached out to the reseller and they say i should use the settings for the Svolt 48v/5.09kwh battery which is : Bulk Charger Voltsge/V: 54 Floating Charge : 52.5 Discharge Cut off coltage: 43.5 Max Charge: 100 There is 2 types of user defined settings: USE & USE 2 ( Manual says for lithium batteries without BMS) Any ideas which I should use and if setting it to user defined will help with my battery losing charge without any load?

Hi all. I have growatt spf5000es inverter. Never any issues with the inverter or the nenergy battery. Since Friday morning, the inverter shows disconnected. There are green flashing lights on the datalogger. I've rebooted, reconfigured, tried to change settings. Nothing. Our internet is working fine and no changes made to the router Any suggestions? Many thanks

Thank you for the updates Guys. I understand that they have 2 kind of working mode With this inverter. You define yourself the parameters, but you have to manage all chargins parameters You lets inverter manage parameters, but now you could not set the battery input current. (Previously that was possible) Editings parameters like you said @zsde is not on my plan due to risk of battery overheat. Thank you guys, for your help another time ! You are the best !

Hi all, i have a weird issue that started 2 months back and getting more regular. I first noticed that when loadshedding occurs and my inverter (Growatt SPF5000TL) switches from utility power to battery/inverter mode, the inverter reboots automatically. This seemed odd but ok as when it reboots it came up again fine and starts feeding the house load again. Then last month, when loadshedding kicked in and the inverter switches again, it rebooted came up BUT now would not supply the house load. The load would kick in for 2 seconds, output voltage go up and then die. Inverter will still be on, batteries at full charge but it wouldnt hold the load supply. But every minute or so, it would try kick in the load again and die. Complete manual restarts and battery resets doesnt work. The ONLY way the inverter picks up and feeds the load again is when utlility supply is resumed. Its like the additional voltage from the utility power jump starts it again. This started intermittent but becoming more regular. Interesting to note, is that it seems to only happen when the inverter is being supplied by Utility and loadshedding occurs and it has to switch over to battery. During the day when it's on SOL primary and utility doesn't supply or effect the load at all, even if loadshedding occurs it works as per normal. Also if I switch my inverter off completely and try start it up again, it presents the same issue IF i don't have Utility power present to start it up. So I can reproduce it that way. It won't supply load directly straight off the batteries, even in full charge. I run SOL mode, so full PV and batteries during the day, then it switches to utility after sunset unless theres loadshedding, then I run off battery till power resumes. I feel like its an inverter issue, maybe specifically with the capacitors, possibly faulty? Ive had the inverter just under 3 years now. Anyone experienced this or heard of similar issues? Thank you.