February 7, 20233 yr Hi Everyone, Hope that someone here can help or point me in the right direction. I have a SUN-5K-SG01LP1-EU 5KW DEYE hybrid inverter purchased and installed last week. I also have a single 5.1KW Hubble am5 lithium battery installed. It is working as a backup solution so no solar panels, however the unit is always running at very high temperature, even when not using the battery and using grid power. Most of the time the temps are running between 65 degrees celsius DC and 70 degrees celsius DC. And the internal fan is running 24/7 (always on) . The inverter is installed in my garage and the garage does get hot sometimes, however I have the same issue even at 3am in the morning when the garage is really cool. This is not correct right? These temps feel too high and the inverter gets quite hot to the touch. Any suggestions or help will be greatly appreciated. Could the unit be faulty? Could it be a setting? As the unit was installed just last week, I did raise it to the supplier but they said that this is normal. Surely this cant be normal? From the videos and articles I have seen online, it looks like the inverter fan was meant to only come on at 65 degrees and not always be spinning like crazy trying really hard to bring down temps. Some other people that I spoke to who have the exact same inverter as me says their fans only sometimes comes on when the battery is charging and then goes off again. I did see some of the other threads on this forum where some guys are running fans 24/7 but I rather fix the issue at hand rather than doing a counter measure. Another note, it seems like the Inverter and Battery are not communicating as I dont see any battery stats. Could this be a contributing factor? The Hubble website says that the AM5 battery is compatible with Deye : https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/deye Many thanks for the help.
February 7, 20233 yr I have a 5Kw SunSynk (same same) and mine runs the same temps. However, I do not have fans. Mine is installed in a pantry, with dishwasher and washing machine, so a fair bit of ambient heat. And I have solar installed. However, your BMS is much more of a concern, as your UPS needs to know what the battery is doing. So I would fix that way before the heat!
February 7, 20233 yr That isn't good. I have my 5K SS in a HOT garage and my temps are below, over the past two days: Have you measured the ambient temp of the garage? Considered installing a ceiling and insulation? Your battery comms is also not good, get your installer back to fix it, check that it is set to use Lithium mode 00. Check Deye specific settings on Hubble's website: https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/deye
February 7, 20233 yr 44 minutes ago, YNL said: Another note, it seems like the Inverter and Battery are not communicating as I dont see any battery stats. Could this be a contributing factor? The Hubble website says that the AM5 battery is compatible with Deye : https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/deye No - this should not be contributing to your temp situation. But as @YellowTapemeasure wrote, get your installer to fix it. Otherwise your inverter is running 'blind'
February 7, 20233 yr Author 2 hours ago, JamesF said: I have a 5Kw SunSynk (same same) and mine runs the same temps. However, I do not have fans. Mine is installed in a pantry, with dishwasher and washing machine, so a fair bit of ambient heat. And I have solar installed. However, your BMS is much more of a concern, as your UPS needs to know what the battery is doing. So I would fix that way before the heat! Thanks for the help and input and that graph. I wasn't comfortable with the high temps so I am running extra fans until I find the actual cause of the high temps. So find a cure instead of addressing the symptom Regarding the BMS, yeah, need to address that too asap. 1 hour ago, YellowTapemeasure said: That isn't good. I have my 5K SS in a HOT garage and my temps are below, over the past two days: Have you measured the ambient temp of the garage? Considered installing a ceiling and insulation? Your battery comms is also not good, get your installer back to fix it, check that it is set to use Lithium mode 00. Check Deye specific settings on Hubble's website: https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/deye Thanks for the reply. Yes, I fully agree, my temps are not good. Thats why I really want to fix it. Surely this fancy piece of hardware cant sustain such high temps? I checked the deye manual and the operating temp should be 25 degrees to 60 degrees. Regarding the battery comms, I have spoken to my installer and he said he will sort it out asap. 1 hour ago, wolfandy said: No - this should not be contributing to your temp situation. But as @YellowTapemeasure wrote, get your installer to fix it. Otherwise your inverter is running 'blind' Thank you. An inverter running blind cant be good Edited February 7, 20233 yr by YNL
February 7, 20233 yr These suppliers/distributors/installers (more often than not even manufacturers) are so disgusting when they pokerface/downplay their clients when clearly there is something wrong with their products/installations. Either there is something wrong with your installation or the unit is faulty. More likely the latter. Return it. Dont accept the "it is normal" bullshit. Edited February 7, 20233 yr by power.esrl3 spelling
February 7, 20233 yr 33 minutes ago, YNL said: Thank you. An inverter running blind cant be good I'd also suggest that you check the Battery settings in the inverter. If the inverter cannot communicate with the BMS, then I wonder what settings he has put there...
February 7, 20233 yr Until the BMS communications are set up correctly, as @wolfandy suggests, try to check the voltage charge and discharge settings under the battery menu in the inverter, compare it to the battery specs (see if there's a plaque on the battery). It looks like the inverter is in lead-acid by percentage (%) mode. Rather try Voltage mode, since your inverter cannot get the % via the BMS. Maybe even try to limit the charge and discharge amps on the inverter to 50A charge and maybe 90A discharge. Or else even disable charging from grid entirely until someone has come out to inspect it.
February 7, 20233 yr 4 hours ago, YNL said: Most of the time the temps are running between 65 degrees celsius DC and 70 degrees celsius DC. And the internal fan is running 24/7 (always on) . If this is a new Deye, it most probably doesn't have fans (can you hear the fan, or is some software saying the fan is on?). A friend of mine bought a new 5kW Deye to parallel with his old one, and he had the same temperature readings you are showing. He bought 3x 80mm 12V fans and built a frame for them, and has them running full time, and now his new inverter runs cool. A fan-less inverter might be OK the the UK, but NOT for South Africa.
February 7, 20233 yr Author 5 hours ago, power.esrl3 said: These suppliers/distributors/installers (more often than not even manufacturers) are so disgusting when they pokerface/downplay their clients when clearly there is something wrong with their products/installations. Either there is something wrong with your installation or the unit is faulty. More likely the latter. Return it. Dont accept the "it is normal" bullshit. Fully agree. The installer has been great, he has come out a few times to try and troubleshoot settings and double check the installation and from his inspection the installation seems to be fine. However the supplier/distributor is saying "it is normal" and even pointed me to this forum to see for myself that its normal. I dont think its normal for the inverter to be running this hot 24/7 (even with the little internal fan spinning away making little to no difference) I have been chatting to buddies that have the deye/sunsynk/fusion inverters, all of their inverters are running with lower temps with the fan hardly ever coming on as their inverters dont even reach 65 degrees.
February 7, 20233 yr Author 6 hours ago, wolfandy said: I'd also suggest that you check the Battery settings in the inverter. If the inverter cannot communicate with the BMS, then I wonder what settings he has put there... So these are the current settings. Seems to be aligned to whats on the hubble website for the am-5 : https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/deye 5 hours ago, GreenFields said: Until the BMS communications are set up correctly, as @wolfandy suggests, try to check the voltage charge and discharge settings under the battery menu in the inverter, compare it to the battery specs (see if there's a plaque on the battery). It looks like the inverter is in lead-acid by percentage (%) mode. Rather try Voltage mode, since your inverter cannot get the % via the BMS. Maybe even try to limit the charge and discharge amps on the inverter to 50A charge and maybe 90A discharge. Or else even disable charging from grid entirely until someone has come out to inspect it. Thanks for the suggestions. So will that be the Use Batt V setting in the screenshot above? Its currently set to Lithium. I did lower the A charge and A discharge over the weekend and the temps still were the same. However, to protect the battery and inverter I will put those charge and discharge settings back now. The installer did come out again this evening to inspect it and verify the installation and check why the Batt comms aren't working. He double checked that the Deye CANBus cable is attached to the Hubble battery CANBus port, but still no communication. We found this odd as based on https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/deye , the deye inverter and the Hubble AM-5 should have full communication and it is compatible. The installer is following up on this. 4 hours ago, TimCam said: If this is a new Deye, it most probably doesn't have fans (can you hear the fan, or is some software saying the fan is on?). A friend of mine bought a new 5kW Deye to parallel with his old one, and he had the same temperature readings you are showing. He bought 3x 80mm 12V fans and built a frame for them, and has them running full time, and now his new inverter runs cool. A fan-less inverter might be OK the the UK, but NOT for South Africa. It has a fan thats always spinning. Its not very loud but you can definitely hear it spinning away. So does this mean I might have an old version even though I just bought it last week? My model is SUN-5K-SG01LP1-EU 5KW DEYE. Either way, it seems like the newer version also has heating issues as you say. Thanks for the input everyone, as things stand I have an over heating inverter which has no comms to my battery. Will keep this thread posted to see where this goes. Edited February 7, 20233 yr by YNL correction
February 8, 20233 yr Is your inverter not on the latest firmware? Updating it "might" (note that no one is sure a firmware update could fix any issue due to deye ridiculously not releasing their changelogs) fix one of your issues. Be wary though, as I have read a lot horrors here that suppliers/support "accidentally" loading a different firmware to their inverters (ridiculous). What's your firmware version? BMS comms error should not contribute to the inverter's 24/7 heating. The main contributor of the heat and almost always causing the fan to blast is the DC or during constant battery charging/discharging. Although no bms-inverter comms, your bms should cut at full charge or full discharge, if your inverter is doing that at all (because you mentioned bms comms error), thus, cutting your inverter's heat as well. I also have the older 5kW with fan. If the inverter is set to lithium and is not communicating properly, this should throw an error to the inverter and the inverter would not run in normal mode at all and should not cause your inverter to heat 24/7 (if your installer did not disable the settings for this). But even though, your bms will cut at full or empty regardless, so none of these will cause your inverter to heat 24/7. Edit: Your inverter's usage graph could also help the people here determine the cause of your heating issue. Edited February 8, 20233 yr by power.esrl3
February 8, 20233 yr Did your installer check the dipswitch settings ensure the Master Hubble Battery dip switch address is set to 1000.Single battery to address 1. Do you have cloudlink setup?
February 8, 20233 yr Hi guys, can you send a pic of where the installation was done & how close is it to any other walls etc. There needs to be a least half a metre between the inverter & anything like a wall or other barrier next to it. On the battery Comms issue. I'm sorry to say that many installers just believe it's like a PC usb port. You just plug in the said RJ45 & heat all is good. I can tell you how many guys installations I have found that have a cable plugged in & the cable is transmitting absolutely nothing. Battery Comms is a whole subject on its own but it involves having the correct pin outs on the battery side & matching that on the inverter side & choosing which type of communication will be used between RS485 & CANbus Comms & then even 2 more steps further making the correct communication inverter setting choice & the last step verification of the successful Comms. Now most installers want to plug & play but a lot are just ignorant & it's really not something done on purpose but if you in this game then I'm sorry these are basics that you need to have. Going to any site involves having a plan & a pin out diagram & a suitable RJ45 Crimper & proper Cat 5 shielded cable. I do not buy any data cables at all. Because they can cost Crazy money. I have found investing in a proper RJ45 crimper & having a plan can save hours of frustration. If you anywhere near JNB maybe I can assist, but this is just poor on the installers side.
February 8, 20233 yr 6 hours ago, power.esrl3 said: Your inverter's usage graph could also help the people here determine the cause of your heating issue. I found that my inverter temp is mostly driven by PV production. The higher my PV production, the hotter my units get. Load to me seems to be a smaller contributing factor. E.g. the temps are similar at 4kW PV production with little (1kW) or high (4kW) loads.
February 8, 20233 yr Author 7 hours ago, power.esrl3 said: Is your inverter not on the latest firmware? Updating it "might" (note that no one is sure a firmware update could fix any issue due to deye ridiculously not releasing their changelogs) fix one of your issues. Be wary though, as I have read a lot horrors here that suppliers/support "accidentally" loading a different firmware to their inverters (ridiculous). What's your firmware version? Thanks for the information, My firmware version is : HMI : Ver 0000-C35A MAIN : Ver 0-3374-1515 7 hours ago, power.esrl3 said: BMS comms error should not contribute to the inverter's 24/7 heating. The main contributor of the heat and almost always causing the fan to blast is the DC or during constant battery charging/discharging. Although no bms-inverter comms, your bms should cut at full charge or full discharge, if your inverter is doing that at all (because you mentioned bms comms error), thus, cutting your inverter's heat as well. I also have the older 5kW with fan. If the inverter is set to lithium and is not communicating properly, this should throw an error to the inverter and the inverter would not run in normal mode at all and should not cause your inverter to heat 24/7 (if your installer did not disable the settings for this). But even though, your bms will cut at full or empty regardless, so none of these will cause your inverter to heat 24/7. So the inverter is set to Lithium mode. The inverter is also running in normal mode. 7 hours ago, power.esrl3 said: Edit: Your inverter's usage graph could also help the people here determine the cause of your heating issue. Hope this is what you are looking for? Sorry I am a newbie in this space, so learning as I am going along. My install was last week and I have learnt quite a bit so far.
February 8, 20233 yr The usage doesn't look problematic, but the AC power draw would be at a lower current anyway because of the higher Voltage of 230V. The issue has been on the DC side, so where the battery is concerned. Please supply graphs of your battery charging and discharging, and your state of charge (which we expect is not available because of no BMS communications. 14 hours ago, YNL said: So will that be the Use Batt V setting in the screenshot above? Its currently set to Lithium. Other than that, yes, try to set your battery mode to "Use Batt V" go into the battery menu again, use the down arrow to get to the sub-menu screen, and then check and set the float, equalisation and cutoff Voltages as per the Deye AM-5 battery's requirements. At least that way the system should not be totally blind.
February 8, 20233 yr Author 11 hours ago, TaliaB said: Did your installer check the dipswitch settings ensure the Master Hubble Battery dip switch address is set to 1000.Single battery to address 1. Do you have cloudlink setup? Yes he said he did. No cloudlink setup. Thanks
February 8, 20233 yr 9 hours ago, wolfandy said: I found that my inverter temp is mostly driven by PV production. The higher my PV production, the hotter my units get. Load to me seems to be a smaller contributing factor. E.g. the temps are similar at 4kW PV production with little (1kW) or high (4kW) loads. Agreed. The main contributor of heat I have observed is mostly on the DC side. 8 hours ago, YNL said: Thanks for the information, My firmware version is : HMI : Ver 0000-C35A MAIN : Ver 0-3374-1515 So the inverter is set to Lithium mode. The inverter is also running in normal mode. Hope this is what you are looking for? Sorry I am a newbie in this space, so learning as I am going along. My install was last week and I have learnt quite a bit so far. Firmware version is not that old, but I believe the latest is 3382. But I have not encountered any issue when I was in 3374. The graph, as someone mentioned, please show the DC side of things (pv, battery charge/discharge). Regarding the bms comm, your inverter must have bms err check disabled, I think you can find that in advanced or battery settings menu. When that is checked, the inverter should not run in normal mode if there is no proper bms comm, thereby no heating will be produced, but in my opinion, this is disabled in your inverter since you mentioned it is running in normal mode but no proper bms comm. As they have suggested, you might want to try voltage mode for observation while you figure out the bms comm issue, so your inverter would not be running blind. Can you show the bms comm ports of your battery? It might be using pace bms, and just needs some software protocol editing.
February 8, 20233 yr Author 14 hours ago, Steve87 said: Hi guys, can you send a pic of where the installation was done & how close is it to any other walls etc. There needs to be a least half a metre between the inverter & anything like a wall or other barrier next to it. On the battery Comms issue. I'm sorry to say that many installers just believe it's like a PC usb port. You just plug in the said RJ45 & heat all is good. I can tell you how many guys installations I have found that have a cable plugged in & the cable is transmitting absolutely nothing. Battery Comms is a whole subject on its own but it involves having the correct pin outs on the battery side & matching that on the inverter side & choosing which type of communication will be used between RS485 & CANbus Comms & then even 2 more steps further making the correct communication inverter setting choice & the last step verification of the successful Comms. Now most installers want to plug & play but a lot are just ignorant & it's really not something done on purpose but if you in this game then I'm sorry these are basics that you need to have. Going to any site involves having a plan & a pin out diagram & a suitable RJ45 Crimper & proper Cat 5 shielded cable. I do not buy any data cables at all. Because they can cost Crazy money. I have found investing in a proper RJ45 crimper & having a plan can save hours of frustration. If you anywhere near JNB maybe I can assist, but this is just poor on the installers side. Hi, thanks for the reply. I will send a pic shortly. Regarding the battery comms, thats valuable information. I honestly am not sure if all of the correct processes were followed there. The installer tried using the cable that came with the inverter and the cable that came with the battery. It was plugged into the CANbus port on the inverter and on the CANBus on the battery and followed the instructions here : https://www.hubblelithium.co.za/deye, but all we see is : but as you mentioned there is much more to it. I will check with the installer. I am in the JHB area. I will DM you, thanks again.
February 8, 20233 yr Author 7 hours ago, GreenFields said: The usage doesn't look problematic, but the AC power draw would be at a lower current anyway because of the higher Voltage of 230V. The issue has been on the DC side, so where the battery is concerned. Please supply graphs of your battery charging and discharging, and your state of charge (which we expect is not available because of no BMS communications. Other than that, yes, try to set your battery mode to "Use Batt V" go into the battery menu again, use the down arrow to get to the sub-menu screen, and then check and set the float, equalisation and cutoff Voltages as per the Deye AM-5 battery's requirements. At least that way the system should not be totally blind. Yup DC side. Interesting is that SOC is available in the graph even though the BMS sections on the inverter are blank, batt temps -100 degrees etc. Yesterday when set to Lithium mode : Today since changing to "USE batt v" mode :
February 8, 20233 yr @YNLI am not so sure how handy you are or how your maguiver skills are but in the absence of a RJ45 Crimper I can still assist you remotely. Alternatively I live in Honeydew, where in JNB are you. I can get the Comms working in a few mins. Let me know which do you prefer. However, maybe some guys out there including yourself have the stomach to get this to work. So here it goes: Using a Straight normal 1:1 RJ45 standard cable will not work. Why? Because of the 8 pins in use there are a mixture of CANbus & RS485 pins. When you plug in a 1:1 cable these pins can cause major havoc for communication. Some pins work & others cancel out. Even Hubble's FAQ says the same thing. See below. So here is a diagram of the Hubble Pin outs which are CAN H & CAN L. They are Pins 4 & 5 on the Battery as well as on the Inverter. So to make this work: Take a normal 1:1 LAN cable & cut it in half. The take pins 4 & 5 & connect them via a small terminal connector or Chocolate block. So 4 & 5 of each piece of cable together. Forget all the other pins. They are causing the Comms conflict. I know it's like a Frankenstein movie but this is effective & will work. PS Ignore the Ground wire, it's not needed. Edited February 8, 20233 yr by Steve87
February 8, 20233 yr These colour codings used by Hubble in their manual are confusing. The standard RJ45 convention will be the colours Blue & White Blue to get this to work. Ie Pins 4 & 5. So go ahead & match Blue & White/Blue into each piece of cable.
February 8, 20233 yr Have you managed to change the float and bulk voltage values to the Hubble AM-5's recommended values? I'm just looking at the battery charging which looks like a fixed value between 3am and 6pm almost regardless of state of charge, even at 100% full. At least it's now 1kW instead of 2kW, but that can't be good. Other than the battery settings, can you check your system work mode - time of use - settings, just to see if there's a fixed time slot for charging where you can modify the desired percentage charge level, (or minimum voltage) for charging the battery to? If so, for now it could be best to turn off time of use. Of course the correct BMS cable is the best final solution. I'm just trying to see if it's possible to contain the situation in the short term.
February 9, 20233 yr 7 hours ago, Steve87 said: These colour codings used by Hubble in their manual are confusing. The standard RJ45 convention will be the colours Blue & White Blue to get this to work. Ie Pins 4 & 5. So go ahead & match Blue & White/Blue into each piece of cable. Yep, I picked that up when I made cables for my Cloudlink. Pins 4 and 5 are a transmit/receive pair, so they benefit from the twists which reduce EMI. It is therefore better to select one twisted pair for 4 and 5. Fortunately this is easy, using Cat 5e cable, the wire with a solid colour is usually paired and twisted with its white banded counterpart, so blue and blue white are a pair, as is orange and orange white, green and green white and brown and brown white.
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