___ Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Hi, so my new Carlo Gavazzi current sensor needs the equivalent space of 4 breakers, and it seems I'm about 10mm short. Those of you who are more clued-up on this stuff, is there a way (legal and all) to stretch the space a bit, or is the only alternative to break it out into a new board? As you can see, 20mm spaces on the left, maybe 40mm on the right. I need about 72mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Snip some space with tin snips...[emoji2] Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk ___ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaws Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 I had a similar problem, took off the existing DB cover and installed a surface mount DB over it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Antony, ___ and Weasel 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Hi, so my new Carlo Gavazzi current sensor needs the equivalent space of 4 breakers, and it seems I'm about 10mm short. Those of you who are more clued-up on this stuff, is there a way (legal and all) to stretch the space a bit, or is the only alternative to break it out into a new board? As you can see, 20mm spaces on the left, maybe 40mm on the right. I need about 72mm. I must say that I dream of the gap in your board under the Eskom sticker😊 Sent from my SM-P605 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 I must say that I dream of the gap in your board under the Eskom sticker😊 Sent from my SM-P605 using Tapatalk It used to have a time switch in that space for the geyser. Then I installed a prefeed system and the timer broke some months later. Probably need to put a surface dB over it... Not much choice in the matter. One option might be these half-size isolators. They are double pole but only take up a single slot. I have one of those, a Hager, on the inverter db. Only 32 amps though. Not sure of you get them in 63a. Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted August 28, 2016 Author Share Posted August 28, 2016 We ran out of space. We driled a hole throught the wall and insalled another DB wall surface mounted on the other side. It is inside a closet on the other side. Other side of that wall is outside the house :-) I'm thinking if I put up a new subdb for the inverter, and move the two lights circuits over, that gives just enough space to add a geyser time switch and the cgwacs. But then we're full again. Best long term is to wire up a new one. Anyone have a ballpark idea what that costs? Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaws Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 You can download the ACDC price list from their website Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikeza Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 On 27/08/2016 at 9:09 PM, plonkster said: It used to have a time switch in that space for the geyser. Then I installed a prefeed system and the timer broke some months later. Probably need to put a surface dB over it... Not much choice in the matter. One option might be these half-size isolators. They are double pole but only take up a single slot. I have one of those, a Hager, on the inverter db. Only 32 amps though. Not sure of you get them in 63a. Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk the 63A is a double space if i remember correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 42 minutes ago, spikeza said: the 63A is a double space if i remember correctly Indeed, the single-space breaker only goes to 32 amp. Already checked the catalog :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacobez Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 You could consider using the Earth Leakage as your main switch. (Better late than never) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-R Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 On 2016/08/28 at 3:51 PM, plonkster said: Other side of that wall is outside the house :-) I'm thinking if I put up a new subdb for the inverter, and move the two lights circuits over, that gives just enough space to add a geyser time switch and the cgwacs. But then we're full again. Best long term is to wire up a new one. Anyone have a ballpark idea what that costs? Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk Hi Plonkster, why not posting a photo of your DB setup. I am sure one of the guys are going to come up with a brilliant idea to solve your space problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Solved problem weeks ago.Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk Chris Hobson 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokkiebod Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Plonkster did you dril holes into the existing DB to feed the new DB. Elaborate please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted April 30, 2017 Author Share Posted April 30, 2017 Nope, the sparky just broke a channel through the bricks right above it... you can even see the gap if you look carefully. Still want to put something there to hide it a bit better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 @plonkster I ended up removing and stripping the whole DB and then replacing with a surface mount over the hole. 3 phase so Hager transfer switch on each phase as well as subdb for extra lights and plugs from inverter. Before: A "farm" mess... After: Chris Hobson 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverNodashi Posted April 30, 2017 Share Posted April 30, 2017 Looks so much neater, thought it's now surface mounted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 I also initially wanted to go over the old board, cover it up and make a new surface-mount install. On the morning of the install I said to the sparky: I think it would be a shame to waste all this good DB space. Let's make it neat (it wasn't very neat), then we use the two rows in the new DB for inverter feed (I needed space for the Anti-islanding Ziehl thing, which is rather wide) and inverter output. So that is what we did. I now have ample space to move circuits over to the inverter side in future, which is part of the plan: At some point I want to upgrade the small 1.6kva Multi to a 3kva. But at the moment, it would seem that if I add another 500Wp of PV and a better battery, I can get my self-consumption up to 50% without buying a new inverter. Which is kind of what I set out to prove so many years ago. I just like keeping options open. Mark 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 My old board was a nightmare... the new DB now has a Samite rail (I replaced the DIN rail) at the top for the old mains and earth leakage plus the new samite surge protection and my old plug breakers (samite and reused). Next 2 layers now DIN with transfer switches and house. Out buildings (plus tenants) on the blue phase with own breaker (40A). I've loads of expansion options. Plus almost exactly the same size as the old DB board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
___ Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 17 minutes ago, Mark said: I replaced the DIN rail I wanted to ask about that. The breakers are narrower so you can get a lot more into the same space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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