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Circuit diagram & Help needed repairing Alfa P-3000/24 Off-Grid Inverter

Featured Replies

2 hours ago, SLINDILE said:

Help with the capacitor C62 information 

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Have you investigated your building insurance if they cover this?

Please put your location in your profile. I makes a BIG difference!

7 hours ago, SLINDILE said:

Yes it's not covered 

Those who have a solar PV system that didn't cost peanuts should consider adding their system to their building insurance.

Often this cover has to be approved but this type of insurance works well because it normally isn't abused. (Think about your geyser insurance and how readily they replace geysers that have failed)  

Edited by Richard Mackay
Clarity!

I have just done a search on this forum on the subject of insurance for RE systems. All that I get are my own comments and questions that I made on other threads (with no responses)

It looks like this forum needs to have this discussion....

Edited by Richard Mackay

1 hour ago, Richard Mackay said:

I have just done a search on this forum on the subject of insurance for RE systems. All that I get are my own comments and questions that I made on other threads (with no responses)

It looks like this forum needs to have this discussion....

This is a item insurance companies handle different . My solar system was not specified with my policy . I had a lightning strike and lost 2 inverters . They replaced the inverters  and some more equipment . All that was required was that I had to get a damadge report on all equipment , the accessor took photos of all the items and I was paid out in full within 2 days  . The only thing sad was people giving overpriced quotation for repairs . I was quoted R9500  for burglar alarm repairs. All that was neaded was a main board , deliverd at my address for R1140 and 20 min of my time . Everything repairable was replaced with a new item at less the cost of repairs .

13 hours ago, Chris Louw said:

This is a item insurance companies handle different . My solar system was not specified with my policy . I had a lightning strike and lost 2 inverters . They replaced the inverters  and some more equipment . All that was required was that I had to get a damadge report on all equipment , the accessor took photos of all the items and I was paid out in full within 2 days  . The only thing sad was people giving overpriced quotation for repairs . I was quoted R9500  for burglar alarm repairs. All that was neaded was a main board , deliverd at my address for R1140 and 20 min of my time . Everything repairable was replaced with a new item at less the cost of repairs .

This sort of thing does happen (especially with equipment they aren't familiar with) but as more and more clients have these systems they will get better.

My point is that replacing the unit is probably the sensible thing to do. I'm an electronics tech and when I see the amount of damage in this discussion I don't get a warm feeling that repairing this is even possible. So getting the unit replaced is the way to go IMHO!

On 2016/09/23 at 9:50 AM, timematcher said:

Turns out, one of the cells in one of the 12Voolt batteries was shorted

@timematcher Just keen to know how you found out one cell was shorted when series voltage for two batteries was above 24.2 VDC. Sorry to take you back to 2016.

  • Author
8 hours ago, Kilowatt Power said:

@timematcher Just keen to know how you found out one cell was shorted when series voltage for two batteries was above 24.2 VDC. Sorry to take you back to 2016.

When load is applied to the 12 volt battery (either through the Inverter/UPS or via a battery jerk tester) , following things start happening in a shorted cell:

  1. Lots of bubbles start coming out of the shorted cell(s)
  2. The overall voltage falls by the factor of each of the shorted cells. So if one cell is shorted , the faulty battery's overall voltage will fall down to 10 or 9Volts immediately while the other fully charged, non-faulty battery (in a 24 volt combination) will still show 12.xVolts on load and 13.x volts without load.
  3. If you have a single battery of 12 Volt , you can not do a comparison like above but you may see lots of bubbles coming out of one or more cells on load which would tell that particular cell is shorted.
  4. You can use carbon Rods (the one extracted from regular AA Cells), hold then with some metal clamper, and use a multimeter to test each cell by dipping the carbon rod(s) into each respective cell and comparing voltage between each cell. Please use this as last confirmation test and dip only for a short period of time as the sulphuric acid in the battery may start dissolving the carbon and introduce impurities in the battery.
  5. In an ideal fully charged, battery with no short, each cell may read 2.2Volts and the whole battery should read 13.x Volts without load. On Load, the battery should read 12.X volts overall, and each individual cell should read 2.1 or so volts.
  6. If you have a battery tester such as the following (shown in a screenshot), you do not have to perform the above steps but the above steps are more fine tuned way of testing the battery and specifically which cell is shorted.

Hope it helps.

12v-aumotive-vehicle-car-battery-tester-car-battery-analyzer-micro-200.jpg

Edited by timematcher

  • Author
9 hours ago, Kilowatt Power said:

@timematcher Just keen to know how you found out one cell was shorted when series voltage for two batteries was above 24.2 VDC. Sorry to take you back to 2016.

The cutoff voltage set in my Solar inverter was set to a high value (23.X volts). As a result, I would see 24.X volts on no-load and the inverter would cut off really quick in a few minutes before the voltage could actually go down 23.X volts... Also, i was adding load in small increments when testing that so I never figured out that battery had shorted cells and could not bear a certain load (beyond a certain threshold like a few hudnred watts ). Also, one has to open the caps on the two batteries and i was really proud that my batteries are brand new and I should not open their caps or something Haha :P

It was only when i reduced the cutoff voltage to 21.X volts, i was able to reproduce the shorted-cell scenario and would see symptoms (bubbles on load) and voltage dropping sharply. I assisted the use of software (serial cable, software, windows) that came with my solar inverter and saw the sharp curve in the voltage graph of the voltage going down in minutes when load was only a few bulbs and a 1 ceiling fan (amounting to just a few hundred watts) on a 3.5KVA inverter with handsome-sized batteries (do not remember the amperage anymore but i have the same size custom-made batteries now and the same solar inverter).

15 hours ago, Kilowatt Power said:

@timematcher Just keen to know how you found out one cell was shorted when series voltage for two batteries was above 24.2 VDC. Sorry to take you back to 2016.

The easy (and quick) way to test for this is a non contact thermometer. The shorted cell will be hotter when charging

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  • 3 months later...

Hi there, my inverter works fine ordered a two new 5kw inverters MSK II 5kw I have a problem with one it does not show utility AC when I switch AC on comes on though but does not show ac icon on display board nor connect no error codes works fine with Solar and Battery. Something prevents it switching to utility power have checked main cb input power is fine 228v 50Hz if some one have any info on this board I will appreciate it thank you.   

Welcome.

9 hours ago, Wynandxx said:

Hi there, my inverter works fine

? But you seem to have a problem.

Quote

ordered a two new 5kw inverters MSK II 5kw I have a problem with one it does not show utility AC when I switch AC on comes on

I don't understand what you mean by "comes on" here.

Quote

though but does not show ac icon on display board nor connect

So it doesn't show the AC-in icon, nor does it use the AC-in to power loads? But are you forcing it into line mode? Ordinarily, AC-in would just be "in reserve", in case the battery voltage becomes low, or you require utility charging.

  • 1 year later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi,

i have a rct 24v 3kva, 

inverter was sent in as it was under warranty,  and on inspection it was found to have a critter that had gotten into the unit behind the main board, and popped the AC charger,  inverter still functions on DC battery and solar.

the cost to replace the mainboard is really not economical,  is there a schematic for one of these units? to try do a self repair?

i do know there is a mosfet or the likes that blew as when removing the unit fragments fell out the bottom.

unit is a genuine voltronic power.

 

2 hours ago, ContraSpec said:

is there a schematic for one of these units?

No. Parts of it will be quite similar to the 5 kVA circuit, and there is a reasonable complete trace of that here.

Other parts like the battery charger are unique to these smaller models, and the best there is would be the service manuals, which have a handful of selected, simplified schematics. The service manuals are getting a bit old, but they should still be relevant.

Quote

to try do a self repair?

If you're keen, try the repair and hardware modification topic, though it's heavily biased towards the now rather old 5 kVA models.

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