2 minutes ago, ibiza said:

SIG=single

Thanks Ibiza

Maybe that means the previous people tried to add another inverter and then took it down for some reason

12 minutes ago, ibiza said:

Symbol "HS" is in fact "MS" and stands for master in parallel connection, when you have two or more inverters connecting together.

I have this as well even though I only have one inverter.  No visible issues so far.  I think it may be that the inverter was tested in the factory in a parallel setup...?

Lucky you, every time I switch my inverters off and on settings are lost  then I must call an expert  to bring everything back to normal

Can anyone give me more info on this 2 display pictures please?

 It comes up when you scroll through the main screen volts pv and so on then this is the last 2 on the menu.

It shows the two firmware versions installed on your inverter: 52.30 and 01.24

4 minutes ago, cvzyl said:

It shows the two firmware versions installed on your inverter: 52.30 and 01.24

Thank you Cvzyl

 Does anyone know if the software can be updated and how?

Unfortunately I didn’t get all the cables with the inverter only a hand written manual so I have no clue what comes with it

new.

You're welcome. Yes, it can be updated, you can download newer versions of the firmware here: http://www.ostrovni-elektrarny.cz/index.php?page=podpora

They also have instructions. There are theads on here that describe the changes between versions but maybe you have to consider first what you would like to achieve (fix) with an upgrade. Some people had problems connecting external generators to the Axpert, think some later versions fixed it. Chris would be able to comment on that.

Otherwise, maybe if it aint broken, don't fix it?

1 minute ago, cvzyl said:

 

Otherwise, maybe if it aint broken, don't fix it?

35 minutes ago, cvzyl said:

Otherwise, maybe if it aint broken, don't fix it?

My philosophy too. The 52.30 is the firmware for the inverter and 01.24 is for the SCC. 52.30 is problematic with generators. I have  firmware 72.40 and can confirm it works with a cheap four grand gennie. The inverter made an odd hum so I would not run it as a rule on a cheap gennie.

Good morning everyone.

 I have noticed this morning my one battery bank is being drained more than the author one.

 All the battery’s in the one bank when measured individually were around 11.80v – 11.75v while the author bank all of the batteries were around 12.17v – 12.25v

 I there anything I must look at to resolve this or is it normal in some cases?

23 hours ago, ibiza said:

 

12 minutes ago, Daniel128 said:

Good morning everyone.

 I have noticed this morning my one battery bank is being drained more than the author one.

 All the battery’s in the one bank when measured individually were around 11.80v – 11.75v while the author bank all of the batteries were around 12.17v – 12.25v

 I there anything I must look at to resolve this or is it normal in some cases?

Not normal at all... are you sure the 12.17v bank is connected correctly or that one of the cables doesn't have a loose lug etc.  

18 minutes ago, Mark said:

Not normal at all... are you sure the 12.17v bank is connected correctly or that one of the cables doesn't have a loose lug etc.  

I did check and I couldn’t see anything and I connected the bank as advised.

its the bank on the right that is low 11.85 where the positive cable is connected.

Ill correct all the lengths of cable this weekend and re do all the lugs just to be sure.

please see attached pictures.

I would rather you joined the 2 positives to one point and same for negatives... ie a busbar. That way your left bank is not daisy chaining off the right bank...

Hope this makes sense... shout and I can draw a diag. Not easy on the phone...

28 minutes ago, Mark said:

 

I would rather you joined the 2 positives to one point and same for negatives... ie a busbar. That way your left bank is not daisy chaining off the right bank...

Hope this makes sense... shout and I can draw a diag. Not easy on the phone...

 

Thank you for the help Mark.

 I will really appreciate it if you can help me with that drawing and then ill know exactly if I must buy anything more this weekend because I also want to install the fuse on the battery lines and pv input

Will do...

Sent from my SM-G800F using Tapatalk

Need to get to a pc...

1 hour ago, Daniel128 said:

 I have noticed this morning my one battery bank is being drained more than the author one.

You cannot necessarily deduce this from the voltage. For example, one bad cell in one battery will cause the internal resistance of that string to rise, causing that string to sit at a lower voltage while at the same time also providing less of the operating current.

1 hour ago, Daniel128 said:

All the battery’s in the one bank when measured individually were around 11.80v – 11.75v

They are connected in parallel. Physically the two strings MUST be at the same voltage because they are hard-wired together. It is mathematically impossible for all the cells to be low on the one and high on the other as the total voltage simply won't add up. You sure those connections are good?

Hi Daniel

See this image... 

For 5 banks but yours needs to be for 2 obviously.  All banks need to have the same length cables.  Note the single points for connection to the inverter (red on right and black on left).

Hope this helps!!

Sorry, not related and no good advice either, maybe it is (?), but that do not touch sign ...

It has to be there obviously ... but for TTT it is like a insistent whisper: "You want to touch, touch it, you know you want to ... go ahead, no-one is watching ... touch it." 

 

On a serious note. After all the above suggestion are done, here is what I would do:
Put a high load on the system, run it for a minute then feel the temp of each connection. 

Also feel the temp of each battery, top, sides etc, unless you have a FLIR camera. That is one awesome way to find problem batts.

If all is fine, and it was mine, I would then split the banks and charge them separately.
Once full I would split the batts and test each battery with a Hawkins Load tester. Ask your local battery shop if you can borrow theirs.

Maybe there is a problem battery and the above are ways to try and find it. 

9 minutes ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

Sorry, not related and no good advice either, maybe it is (?), but that do not touch sign ...

It has to be there obviously ... but for TTT it is like a insistent whisper: "You want to touch, touch it, you know you want to ... go ahead, no-one is watching ... touch it." 

 

On a serious note. After all the above suggestion are done, here is what I would do:
Put a high load on the system, run it for a minute then feel the temp of each connection. 

Also feel the temp of each battery, top, sides etc, unless you have a FLIR camera. That is one awesome way to find problem batts.

If all is fine, and it was mine, I would then split the banks and charge them separately.
Once full I would split the batts and test each battery with a Hawkins Load tester. Ask your local battery shop if you can borrow theirs.

Maybe there is a problem battery and the above are ways to try and find it. 

Thanks TTT

 Work for Bmw cars and we have those bosh battery testers but they need a acc rating on the battery and these amg gell batteries have none.

Or do you suggest one of those load tester with the needle and the element on the inside?

8 minutes ago, Daniel128 said:

Or do you suggest one of those load tester with the needle and the element on the inside?

Jip, the ones the car battery shops use to test batteries. Like this: http://www.hawkins.co.za/battery_tester.html

I bought one for I lost it one day after I burnt the shiite out of my finger. Wife ran to my cave and as she entered, she smelt it. Eugh!

Was testing batteries. This specific battery tested perfect on volts but once I put on a 300w load ... if it was not a test, there would have been some serious drama.

So now I test batts with my Hawkins Tester. Less painful and does not smell as bad.

2 hours ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

You want to touch, touch it, you know you want to ... go ahead, no-one is watching ... touch it."

I have just one rule when it comes to batteries. Take off your wedding ring. Also... this.

2 hours ago, Daniel128 said:

need a acc rating on the battery

CCA. Cold Cranking Amps. Real Deep Cycles don't have that, they aren't made to crank engines so they don't spec them by peak power. Nevertheless, a 170Ah battery is a LARGE battery. Even Diesel vehicles rarely have starter batteries larger than around 90Ah, so chances are you can just dial the tester up to about three-quarters capacity. This is really for comparison purposes, so just do the same thing to every battery in the string. If there is a bad battery, that one will drop faster than the rest.

On 2016/09/16 at 11:06 AM, plonkster said:

You cannot necessarily deduce this from the voltage. For example, one bad cell in one battery will cause the internal resistance of that string to rise, causing that string to sit at a lower voltage while at the same time also providing less of the operating current.

They are connected in parallel. Physically the two strings MUST be at the same voltage because they are hard-wired together. It is mathematically impossible for all the cells to be low on the one and high on the other as the total voltage simply won't add up. You sure those connections are good?

Looking at the photos, I would think that this phenomena is purely due to the cabling. i.e. the Negative cable runs to the first (right hand) bank, then a long cable to the 2nd bank. In a DC system, volts is drawn through the negative cable - more precisely: electrons flow from negative to positive. I suspect there could be high resistance, either in the wires, or the 2nd battery bank, that cause the imbalance.

@Daniel128 as a suggestion, try and re-arrange your batteries so the cables between the 2 banks are as short as physically possible. Either stack them on top of each other, connect the positives and negatives of each battery bank to a bus bar (or a simple connection) so that each battery bank has the same cable length from the inverter. Look at the image below to see what I mean. 

Then take a multi meter and measure the ohms, and volts between all the links. Try and get it as close together as possible. If need buy use a battery balancer. You would need 3x Victron battery balancers on 48V.

 

23 hours ago, SilverNodashi said:

volts is drawn through the negative cable - more precisely: electrons flow from negative to positive

That is true, though it makes very little difference. Its not as if there is somehow a traffic jam of electrons closer to the negative pole. In fact it makes no difference at all whether you think in terms of conventional flow (positive to negative) or electron flow (from negative to positive), as long as you are consistent about how you do it.

I totally agree about checking voltage drops over the links. It is amazing what you can discover by checking voltage drops. Once again, if you add up the voltages of the batteries and the voltages across the cabling it must add up to the same for both banks. Then once you are sure you have no voltage drops over cables that shouldn't have them, it might be necessary to balance batteries. I'm in complete agreement with Silver here.

29 minutes ago, plonkster said:

That is true, though it makes very little difference. Its not as if there is somehow a traffic jam of electrons closer to the negative pole. In fact it makes no difference at all whether you think in terms of conventional flow (positive to negative) or electron flow (from negative to positive), as long as you are consistent about how you do it.

I merely explained why the one bank ise lower than the other

Good morning too all

 Thank you for all the feedback and advice I really appreciate it.

 I did some fault finding this weekend and did some changes and it looks like it has paid off.

 I also got my hands on a load tester and tested all the batteries and all of them look to be in good order.

 I also disconnected all my batteries and charged them all to full capacity with a C Tec charger and left them for a couple of hours to settle.

 Did final testing to make sure all of the batteries are full and did read the same or as close as possible and re connected them.

 I also put new connectors on all of my cables and left the system to charge the howl Sunday and to go into float to balance them all off.

 On the inverter AXPERT 5KVA in program 29 low DC cut off voltage I see it is set to 42v would you recommend I change it to 48v because that’s where my batteries read 50% discharged but I have read it interferes with the soc?