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19 minutes ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

Request

Wires ... , 4mm2, 10mm2, 16mm2 - for solar panels.
Cables: 25mm2 and 50mm2 - for batteries.

All with lugs to crimp on, lug sizes for the above for use on for 10mm battery studs.

I have seen solar flex (twin wire - black and red in flex) on the Rubicon catalogue.  Looks like it would be great when pulling a string, etc.

That would be nice in the various sizes. TwinSolar PV1-F is there product name.

 

 

8 minutes ago, Energy said:

Your thoughts?

Jip, and HellermanTytan lugs ... as I said before, ACDC lugs are getting seriously thin.

Jason

Are those busbars on the store suitable to connect battery strings together in a battery bank? I have 4 strings so would need a busbar for positive and negative respectively. Which one would you recommend?

Cobus

Hi Jay,

Some things I struggled to get hold of when I did my installation (and I have not spotted it in the store yet :)) are:

  • Panel mounting hardware
  • DC disconnects / breakers for PV (high voltage) and battery (high current low voltage)
  • PV Fuse holders and fuses
  • DIN / DB mount battery fuse holders and fuses
  • MC4 connectors / splitters / branch connectors / PV combiner boxes

Then things like crimp-on lugs for the battery cables and crimping tools for those as well as heat-shrink tubing (red and black) to finish off the ends of the crimped battery cables.

crimps.jpg

Thanks

 

42 minutes ago, superdiy said:

... heat-shrink tubing (red and black) finish off the ends of the crimped battery cables ...

@superdiy I have a question, why do people always  use heat-shrink tubing?

Once when I was testing batteries, I found heat-shrink problematic when a battery had a internal short and the UPS kept on doing it's level best to power a 250w load.

Heat-shrink melted.

1 hour ago, The Terrible Triplett said:

why do people always  use heat-shrink tubing?

 

For neatness I think. I would think that cable of yours would have gotten equally hot without the thin layer of heatshrink. With vented batteries I do think it presents a bit of extra risk: that horrible paste that collects on everything gets in there and then it has a nice little pocket from which it launches it's corrosive attacks.

6 hours ago, plonkster said:

... nice little pocket from which it launches it's corrosive attacks.

Reminds me that I have seen quite a few older cables corroded under the heat shrink when you remove it due to it becoming "hard".

On 10/21/2016 at 9:03 AM, The Terrible Triplett said:

@superdiy I have a question, why do people always  use heat-shrink tubing?

Once when I was testing batteries, I found heat-shrink problematic when a battery had a internal short and the UPS kept on doing it's level best to power a 250w load.

Heat-shrink gives a professional look to a cable joint and in this case to the lug crimped onto the cable and won't loosen and get all sticky and messy in time as when insulation tape is used.  Heat-shrink will not mask a problem in the connection, but it looks a damn side more professional than insulation tape. ;)

Heat-shrink melted.

Other forms of insulation would also have melted.

12 minutes ago, superdiy said:

Other forms of insulation would also have melted.

That is very true. 

I now crimp my cables as neat as I can with nothing on the crimps, the more rugged, manly, lets get to work look. :D

On 21/10/2016 at 7:35 AM, cvzyl said:

Jason

Are those busbars on the store suitable to connect battery strings together in a battery bank? I have 4 strings so would need a busbar for positive and negative respectively. Which one would you recommend?

Cobus

Hi Jason, have not received a reply from you on the question above.

Would this busbar work for connecting my 4 battery strings together? (Positives together and negatives together.) It is a 48V bank, my inverter is set to charge and discharge at max 20A so the 150A rating of the busbar should be ok?

Cobus

Yes, it will work.

Cobus, the busbar needs to support the current which might flow, not only the 20A charging current, but also the up to 92A which the infini might draw under full load. The basbar in question can handle 250A @ 48V continiously, so it should be perfect.

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