TimCam

The Generator port is made for this function, and will not interfere or clash with the Eskom main feed. It is an input or output port, and is isolated from the incoming Eskom main feed. I don't have the internal circuit diagram, but suspect it connects to the DC bus, UPS, and main AC feed through appropriate electronics and relays. So no problem running the generator at the same time as AC main feed is connected. In fact the same port can accept input from a micro inverter with it's own string of panels.

Very strange behavior. When solar is insufficient, my SunSynk 8.8 kW assists with grid power for the shortfall, and only uses battery if grid is off. Maybe it is due to a setting in the "System Mode", while using "Timer". I never use the timer during the day.

A good installer is always a great plus. As they say, "it's not always what you know, but who you know." 👍

On my SunSynk 8.8 kW "System Mode" settings the one setting is "Solar Export Bat Full", this should work. Never bothered to test it though.👍

What is the inverter not doing, that you thought it should? Are the panels not generating enough solar power, or battery problems? More info is needed.👍

I suppose you are fully off-grid. 👍 Looking good. 😆

Scratch around for 4x 12V old batteries, just to power the inverter during the daylight hours. If you are in KZN midlands, I could offer you 4x 12V old Gel batteries to get you through until the lithium's are repaired. 👍

For 6x405W panels, 85V is low. Possibly with the move, one or more connectors are not seated properly, or faulty. There appears to be a bad contact somewhere. Maybe measure the incoming voltage from the panels with a multimeter. (Careful, as it could be lethal.)

It is considered good practice to always start the settings at midnight 00:00. I know the manual doesn't say so, but I'm sure I read it somewhere.🤔

Like @Halcyon said we need to see the settings in "System Mode". Possibly after the DOD at 25% another setting takes it further down, but at a slower rate.

Correct, by simulating load-shedding, you can see what is wired as essential, and non essential. 👍

You obviously live somewhere, where you don't have weeks of bad weather, enjoy the solar.

I have set mine to 20W, and all is working fine, but I don't have a "new" digital meter.

Not a good PV season for sure in KZN area. Winters are normally clear skies but shorter sun hours, and worse angle.

Unfortunately in certain parts of the country this is already a reality. Currently we have gone 6 days without a break in power, and this is something to celebrate. For our area, mare batteries and more panels are always necessary. Working out the ROI becomes irrelevant when it comes to having power, or not having power. If you have the funds available, you will appreciate the additional battery.

Great to see you all sorted, and just a firmware update. Encouraging to see you had good service from the installer and Hubble.

Do you have an "ADSL Pots filter" connected with a phone? If so, disconnect the filter from the jack, as this might be causing EMI feedback from the telephone chord, possible running close to AC power. I suppose you have already changed the chord from the jack to the ADSL modem? Also open the jack and check for secure wiring.

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Are you saying you will only consume upto 3 kW for the whole night, i.e. if you had a 5 kW battery by the morning there would still be 2 kW of power left? This is easily doable. 👍

To check the battery comms, on the inverter, go to settings, IL BMS. you should see SOC and other battery parameters. If you see only lines of zero's, there is no comms. The ethernet cable that comes with the inverter is not wired for comms to the battery. With a battery that is not able to sustain the full capacity of the inverter, go to settings, battery, and enter the MAX discharge Amps the battery can sustain, so the battery will be protected, and the inverter will not try and draw more. If you suddenly have a mains failure or load-shedding while drawing more than the battery can handle, the inverter will shut down, and save the battery. Switch off heavy loads, and restart the inverter with the Green ON/OFF button on the side.👍 Welcome to the wonderful world of power independence.

I had one battery a little while before the newer one. What I did before connecting the new one, was fully charge the old one, then switch it off, and disconnect the fuse and CAN cable to the inverter. I then set up the new battery as "master" (DIP SW 1), and connected it to the inverter through it's fuse, and the CAN cable. I then let it fully charge, and switched it off. Then I set the old battery to slave, connected the interconnect data cable between batteries, and connected both batteries through there fuses to the inverter, and switched on the batteries. They were both at 100% SOC, and are still working in SYNC. If your battery doesn't come right, try what @P1000 and @YellowTapemeasure suggest too. I would try it with just the one under-performing older battery connected.👍

Ok, lets see if there is any change after 3 or so days. 👍 I see the Cell voltage of the old battery is still higher than the new one. Lets see after the 3 days, and then after one discharge.

I Don't have the latest software, but I believe the SunSynk output Voltage can now be set. Maybe contact Deye support, as the hardware is the same, and they too might have an updated firmware to adjust the output Voltage soon.

@MarcFe Yes, in "System Mode" make sure "Use Timer is not ticked, so that the batteries do not discharge overnight. The inverter and batteries will communicate over the next few days, and hopefully all cells in both batteries will fully charge and equalize, with float periods for the batteries to "rest". You should notice the batteries now and again supplying small amounts of power to the inverter (30W - 70W), even with mains available. Also expect to see the batteries charge from mains or solar once or twice every 24 to 48 hours as it fully charges and equalizes. (Hopefully you don't have load-shedding or mains failures for the next few days. 😂) Lets hope you're oldest battery is restored to it's former glory.

On the side of the battery is a sticker with the settings that should be used. My batteries are set as below, and are still in good condition, after almost a year. Maybe try these settings, and don't discharge your batteries for 3 days, and see if the older one recovers.👍 If not speak to Hubble. Float V :- 52.6V Absorption V :- 53.6V Equalization V :- 53.5V