Jacques Ester

That is when the Bakkie brigade steps it unfortunately.

I don't have all the answers. I am more familiar with Medium and High Voltage than Low voltage. That is why I posted it here for comments.

Hi John. We will need more info on the system and circuit to make an informed decision. 2 DB's one for all the AC and 1 for the DC. If there is a spilt between Essential en Non Essential Circuit you may need 3 DB's. Dc DB should house all the PV fuses/breaker with Surge protection. Battery should have its own dubble fuse.

Sorry to here about your issues. It seems there are still more to uncover. I hope I am wrong but it seems you have AC and DC mixed in 1 DB. This is a No No.

7.12.3.1.3 7.12.3.1.3 Where alternative supplies are installed remotely from the installation, or from one another, and where it is not possible to make use of a single neutral bar which is earthed, the neutral of each unit shall be earthed at the unit and these points shall be bonded to the consumer’s earth terminal (see 6.12.4). The supply from each unit which supplies the installation or part of the installation, shall be switched by means of a switch that breaks all live conductors operating substantially together (see annex S), to disconnect the earthed neutral point from the installation neutral when the alternative supply is not connected (see also 6.1.6). 6.12.4 Earthing of the neutral of combined sources When an installation that has a common neutral is supplied from a combination of transformers and generators located near one another, the neutral terminal of each of these items shall be connected to a single neutral bar. This neutral bar shall be the only point at which the neutral of the installation is connected to the consumer's earth terminal except as in the case in 7.12.3.1.3. 6.13 Bonding NOTE 1 The aim of bonding is to bring all the bonded parts to the same electrical potential. Amdt 4 NOTE 2 No external conductor is required if compliance with the requirements for continuity can be proved by the test in 8.7.2.

Some comment " Name deleted is correct in saying local codes and laws supersedes any manufactures recommendations , that part is true . However I don’t think he is interpreting the standards correctly around earth - neutral bonding . The standards clearly state there can only be 1 point of bonding , not 2

Some comment " Okay. Let’s put this Neutral earth bond nonsense to bed. The manufacturer recommendations says a permanent earth/neutral bond may be used. Lets look at the code sans 10142-1 7.12.3.1.2 In an installation that is supplied from a combination of transformers and alternative supplies located near to each other, the neutral points of each of these items SHALL be connected to a single earthed neutral bar (see P.1). This earthed neutral bar shall be the only point at which the neutral of the installation is earthed. Let’s just add that it also connected to an earth electrode AND the supply earth as per 6.111 and 7.12 SO A CONTACTOR IS NOT COMPLIANT!! The contactor usage is for other countries and or if the installation is remotely installed from the supply. So conclusion. No relay/contactor, only permanent bond. This does not affect the warranty. This is safe for the installation. This is what the standards say"

Some of the comments " Q. Why is an Earth neutral bond required A. It changes the output UPS from a class 2 to a class 1 Q. when ever Grid is present do you need to remove the bond A. Not straight away , Grid can be present but he inverter is still running it can take upto 2 mins to switch over the bond must remain until the inverter relay changes over. Q. Can the relay operate as soon as the inverter changes over A. No you need s slight delay 500 ms to prevent upstream RCDs from tripping Q. If the system is totally off grid can you add a permanent bond A. If no grid is connected then the answer is yes Q. What is the rating of the earth bond contactor A. At least 50% greater than the fuse rating Q. Do you need earth neural bond on Aux / Gen input I am not going to answer this I will leave for anyone’s comments Remember Sunsynk is a true hybrid"

Hi guys. I want some opinions and if possible the proof that someone is correct or wrong in the following comment. On the Synsynk Face book page there is a big fight regarding the correct way to do this. Some say you can only bond via a Relay and then some are saying that a relay isn't compliant and there should be a permanent bond between Earth and Neutral. They say it is non compliant and that no COC can be given. What do you guys say? I will try and find the post and paste it here.

I have seen a lot of talk about the Neutral Earth bonding on the Sunsynk FB page. Some guys say that there should be a permanent bond according to SANS and if you install a relay it doesn't comply and no COC can be written. Any opinions?

Both cables insulation will be sufficient for 48Volts.

Have a look at Welding shops for welder cable or Music shops. Car audio shops sell it per meter.

I haven't see anybody use the products from Kestrel. Surely they are quality products?

When connected to Comms the BMS will change the value back. I see you are using user. This should allow you to push 200A but the BMS can still limit it.

It can be a few things. Temperature, the battery will limit when it is cold If the Communication between inverter and battery is connected it can be that the BMS is limiting the current for some reason. Check under the config tab what the value is. It should change depending on temp and state of charge.

I might now someone. Please send telephone number via PM. I will forward to him

With the correct labeling and separation you can do everything in 1 Db. Most prefer 2

Maybe post a picture of the battery and label.

Lee I would think when the building is being build one could/should install conduits. This will ensure a much neater install. Most installs are being done after the building was build. Most home owners don't want the dust when chasing walls.

Best is to Tag Steve @Steve87

If the Pi is connected to the internet it should show that there is an update. That is the newest update available.

If I am not mistaken the Solar MD is an 16 cell battery and the Pylontech is 15 Cell. Really do not recommended to mix these two. Rather stay with the Solar MD batteries.

That cant be correct. Please see link that Chaos shared.

Always one ONE Earth. If you install earth spikes you connect them to your main earth. Multiple earths only creates issues. Also if an earth spike is installed and no Earth resistivity test is done it doesn't mean anything, just a rod in the ground.

How many cycle has it done and wat is the health of the battery?