shovelhead

@zabdab Yes, I still have the Geyserwala and am very happy with it.  I have integrated it into Home Assistant and Apple iOS for control and automation also.  Great Product.

Earth as was suggested. The only way not allowed is if the battery had 2 earthing point will be to use the casing as a means of connecting 1 earth wire to the next. The wires have to be connected on the same stud/screw. 
Electronic equipment can have leakage stray values. When measuring the amps one will quickly see if it is stray values. 
We recently found stray readings on a scope and I solved it by adding a earth wire from scope to a 3 pin plug connected into a multi plug. 

Yes that would be fine. Before you tie the inverter earth to the battery use your DMM on amp scale and measure if their is any current flow between battery and inverter chassis. 
If you get negligence current flow between battery chassis and inverter chassis earth then you can just do the earth connections with inverter running just be careful not to accidentally short out battery terminals. You could use between batteries what is called in the electrical industry as "bamba strap" copper strip with perforated holes then from there 6mm² Green/ Yellow earth wire.
It could just be potential difference due to lack of grounding the current test with the DMM should clarify if it might just be static build up.Below picture of the earth strap.


 

No, I haven't yet. It's my next project. I plan to make an aluminum bar on the chassis rack mount lips out of old burglar bars. Then from there just one wire to the inverter.

I went the Thingwala route since they were willing to work with me to ensure compatibility with my older TSE model. 
Home Assistant integration was pretty straightforward and On/Off element functionality and water temperature is now available to me in Apple HomeKit via the Homekit Bridge, and additionally other entities that can also be exposed and used if required in HA and/or Node Red.
 

I went the Thingwala route since they were willing to work with me to ensure compatibility with my older TSE model. 
Home Assistant integration was pretty straightforward and On/Off element functionality and water temperature is now available to me in Apple HomeKit via the Homekit Bridge, and additionally other entities that can also be exposed and used if required in HA and/or Node Red.
 

I went the Thingwala route since they were willing to work with me to ensure compatibility with my older TSE model. 
Home Assistant integration was pretty straightforward and On/Off element functionality and water temperature is now available to me in Apple HomeKit via the Homekit Bridge, and additionally other entities that can also be exposed and used if required in HA and/or Node Red.
 

This was my thought also. BTW unticking the sync option has solved the problem

This was my thought also. BTW unticking the sync option has solved the problem

Great, tried the restart but not the reboot. Working again.

I use SolarAssistant and HA integration 

I use SolarAssistant and HA integration 

You have to press disconnect first, then choose it

Click Disconnect first.
Change the USB settings
Click Save
Click Connect when done.

I have my current raspi solar assistant directly connected to my Lead Acid battery terminals with their supplied DC to USB power supply.  Can I do the same on my Hubble AM-2 battery, or will it interfere with the BMS, or is the raspi current drain negligible in this regard?🤔

Not sure at which firmware version this happened (already a while back), but through one firmware upgrade Sunsynk increased the MPPTs from 11A to 13A
The other added feature I am aware of is being able to manually set the voltage when running off-grid
Without any changelog from Sunsynk I am not sure if there is anyone that really understands what all the firmware updates have brought...
Maybe @Leshen has more insight?

In effect nothing changed for me. Works the same as before. Only change for me was the Total PV Reading on the dashboard.
The changelog is attached. You can at any stage opt out of the Beta program and you still decide whether you wish to download and apply it. Just watch the changelog releases and then decide.

I actually meant to update this post...I managed to get access to the entities by restarting the Tuya integration. For some reason the scenes do not pull through like adding an ordinary accessory. So I have set up a Node Red flow with timers. Working on the bench, now just to go wire it up to the solenoids.

@mzezman The value is actually negative, i.e. it's feeding into the grid momentarily. I think it is due to inductive loads being switched off. 

I've done approx. 0.1 out of 1000 based on my data.  I'm going to gradually decrease my setting and monitor. I've also set up a HA Notification to alert me when I feed back just to make sure I capture any anomalies. thanks

Picking up on this thread:  I currently have 12 x 255W [old] panels, North facing with a Synsynk 5kw. I have no more space on the north facing section and was considering 5 x 540W panels to supplement on available East facing section, wired to the second MPPT of the inverter.  Any thoughts/criticisms on this would be highly appreciated. 

I have the 5KW.  The pool pump and well point are similar, 750W each.  Pool pump will just switch on once and then off during the day, but the well point has a pressure switch so multiple short on-off cycles throughout the day depending on users.

I played around a bit more...interestingly enough, the only 2 entities that show up on the Tuya integration dashboard, are the backlight and child lock entities, yet I see the overview tab has pulled in full functionality - perhaps this is a user problem on this side and I just need to tinker a bit more. Irrespective, I managed to use the HomeKit bridge to pull this device into my iOS environment so I can now ask Siri to at least switch the aircon and control the temperature. 🙂

Had the supplier swap the unit and working fine now

Had the supplier swap the unit and working fine now