jumper

You can set the cutoff to 48V. Use your back to grid setting a bit higher to keep some battery for load shedding. I'm not very clued up on the dyness, but this video should help if you have a bms port and the necessary menu items. If not then just stick with the user settings. If you have set the inverter to Lib (or Lic, I forget which one) and you don't get an error then you know it's working. I think there is also a flashing battery icon.

I don't think this is overvoltage. I must admit I got confused by the manual in the beginning and thought my battery was overvoltage, but it wasn't, it's going in to standby. This is how the seplos bms acts when close to 100% SOC and is balancing. It will charge with 3 lights on and 1 flashing and then all will go off for a second or 2 and then come on again and then charge a bit then go off again, then it might discharge for a second and then standby again and then charge again. This can continue for 30-60mins before 100% SOC is reached and then it will only discharge.

Yeah it will definitely reduce the possibility if less water is being used. The way the system is set up it seems there is a float switch to switch on the borehole pump whenever the jojo is used, so it shouldn't run dry often, only if there is a problem with the borehole pump itself or if more water is used than it can deliver to the jojo.

Glad you found the issue. Might be a good idea to take the opportunity to put a gate valve on the pump output to make it easier to isolate and test the pressure switch and also troubleshoot in future. It might also become an issue if you lock access to the pressure switch because every time the jojo runs empty someone needs to press the reset button or cycle the power to it.

What is the cutoff voltage set to? Usually it is below 12V by default which is not good for LA batteries.

Unfortunately this doesn't work. I have a shoto and a OG+5.48 and the problem is the shoto speaks CAN, but the Kodak (Axpert) uses RS485 when PYL, LIB or LIC are selected. Afaik the RS485 ports on the shoto can't be used for inverter comms directly.

I'd suggest you steer clear... very scammy. About 10-5hrs.

Yes, there should be a borehole pump down the hole and it should have a pressure valve or float switch to turn off when the jojo is full or it will run permanently... and yes, it should have its own breaker. Not sure if the pressure switch in your pic is adjustable to set the max pressure for it to turn off or if it needs 10bar which is a lot (100m). Perhaps that little pump can't get that high. My pressure switch has a gauge you turn to set the start and stop pressures manually. If the pump is running full time due to a leak then it is a big leak because if the presser switch is set correctly it will build up pressure and switch off and then after a few seconds or minutes, depending on the leak, it will switch on again, build up pressure and switch off again and keep doing that over and over.

Hey, I can't give you professional advice, but from my previous research into the topic when going off grid it all seems very scammy to me, which I think you are discovering with Tesup (I think you dodged a bullet). On the technical side you won't be able to plug the turbine into your current inverters you will need a special inverter as the power delivered is quite 'dirty' and when I priced them previously they were very expensive. You also need to be sure you have the right conditions for a wind turbine... they don't like strong wind, or gusty winds so you need to be in the right area for it to work properly. You can have a look in the wind power section of the forum for more info: https://powerforum.co.za/forum/7-wind-power/

Yes, there is. It has gone in to cell over voltage protection and there is also a pack over voltage alarm which means your battery charge voltage was too high. It could be that you have 1 or 2 cells that are charging faster than others, it would be interesting to see what these screens look like while the batteries are still charging. I agree, they definitely seem to be having trouble with figuring out their BMS. I wonder if the over voltage error status somehow makes the battery report 100%SOC and then because it compares the Ah in vs the original capacity and reduces the SOH.

Is that a 15S or 16S battery? The charge voltages seem like a 15S battery, but the settling voltage of 52.9V is the same as my 16S shoto. If the nominal voltage is 48V it is 15S, 51.2V for 16S. The reason the SOC is not the same at 53V is because one is the settling voltage after being fully charged and the other is still charging on the way up to 54.6V. Once it is charged and you turn off the grid (or get load shedded), it will settle back to 53V. It will take some time sitting at 54V for the cells to balance and to absorb enough amps to reach 100%. It could be that with frequent load shedding the cells have not had the time to balance properly if you don't have solar to supplement charging. What over limit light is that? Is it a cell over voltage or total over voltage limit? Is it an error or just a warning?

FYI, this is the normal behavior of the Seplos BMS in the Shoto battery. It can charge quite quickly to 98%, but can then take up to an hour for that last little bit while it is balancing. Once it has reached 100% it will only allow discharging, until it reaches 96% again.

Yep, it is setting 5 in other models, see this video:

Thanks for that, from the doc it suggests that the 'Lib' setting uses RS485 at least. Would be interesting to know if that adapter just does a CAN to RS485 translation to be used with any battery or if it only works with the freedomwon. Yeah battery inverter comms is a minefield of incompatibilities between pinouts and protocols, it is a mess. Very informative video, I've never seen a dyness connected directly to an axpert like that. I also don't have option 14, but I'm sure this is option 5 in our models. His option 5 is different when he scrolls past it. My option 5 has the LIC option he is using. From the pinouts he describes it also looks like RS485 and matches yours. You need to be sure that your battery speaks the same protocol as the dyness, but I guess if you plug it in and it works then it works.

That sounds like some sort of inverter settings conflict there that is causing it to not want to use the battery while there is grid. The battery seems fine. I would plug the comms cable back in and change to the PYL setting to see how it runs now that the battery has been discharged.

It looks like CAN is used for the other protocols, see here: https://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?p=88506#p88506 I know it's not your model, but I'm sure the hardware and software is similar if not the same.

I guess you've never owned an axpert, they tend to overshoot, especially when the battery is fully charged and it starts a charge cycle, it will overshoot quite a bit before it realizes and reels itself in. I also don't think this is a pylontech problem which is why I was hoping someone with pylons could comment on the voltages because that affects the back to grid and back to battery settings.

Yeah I have the OG5.48. There is a lot of conflicting information about the CAN capability because it is in all the manuals as in your image, but I've not actually seen anyone with it working. I was under the impression that the other lithium settings might use CAN, but I've not been able to find out anything.

Are you absolutely sure the RS485 port on the battery can be used for inverter communication? My Shoto battery has a 1xCAN and 2xRS485 ports and I thought I would be able to use the RS485 to the inverter, but as it turns out they are only for PC comms or battery to battery, so I have to use the CAN port for inverter comms.... BUT the Axpert can only do RS485 with the PYL setting, so I just use voltage settings.

A lot of batteries are set up like this to be compatible with different devices as pinouts are not standard. You can choose which ones to use, either pins 1&2 or pins 7&8.

Just make sure that your Back to Battery setting is lower than the max charge or it probably won't switch to battery. Maybe try 50V to test. Also maybe turn of the AC IN to the inverter to see if it will run from battery alone. If there is no grid then it will ignore the BtG and BtB settings and should run until the cutoff voltage.

Yep, it is now showing you more accurately how much of the battery you should be using if you want it to last. With LA you should only be using 20Ah out of a 100Ah battery whereas with the dyness you will be able to use 80Ah. So one dyness is technically the same storage as 16x12V 100A lead acids... now you see why the price of lithium really makes sense and why so many are running their 'cheaper' lead acids into the ground so quickly. The default settings are for maximum inverter runtime, not maximum battery life. Enjoy the new inverter, it should be running cooler and quieter as the 48V uses half the current of the 24V inverter for the same load.

If your battery is full which it sounds like from the SOC lights then the inverter will probably overshoot the voltage, it will probably stop around only 52V when you are charging up from a lower SOC. The settings that control the inverter switching from between battery and grid are: Back to Grid and then Back to Battery. What is Back to Battery set to? I would try 52V. Hopefully someone with some pylontechs can comment with their settings.

You can leave the cable in and just change the BtG or you can take it out and use the USE setting, but then change the charge voltage to 52.4V. I have read that no BMS to inverter comms might affect the pylontech warranty, so I would just leave the cable in first and just drop the BtG to 46.5V and check the SOC lights intermittently to see how it is doing.

With the PYL setting it will be ignoring what charge voltage you set, it will keep overriding it that's why it goes to 53.2V. Strange that the inverter goes to grid at 49.8V when it is set to 48V, perhaps the voltage is sagging under the load, but that is not a big load. I have read that 1 pylontech battery is usually not enough on its own as they don't like high discharge current. For reference I have a 16S battery which settles to 53V after charging, so I would expect a 15S battery to settle to 50V or just below which is basically 49.8V, so 48V BtG doesn't give you much room. I would lower the BtG to 46.5V (leave room for LS) and see how it goes. You should be able to judge from the SOC lights how low the battery is actually going and adjust according to that. The best would be to set up a cable to the console port and connect with a PC to see exactly what the battery is doing.