Johandup

You realise you’ve bought a 3 phase transfer switch.What do you need it for? Inside the box there are clear instructions. I’ve installed three Hager transfer switches now and it was easy.

Moet nie te gou praat nie - die Vaaldam begin nou eers oorloop op 101% vol.

Welcome to my world 😉 Get a clampmeter (not too cheap but they also function as a multimeter) and read the ma between neutral and earth. Remember they all add up. I’ve a fancy borehole controller that gives a high 30ma reading. On its own it can cause a trip when it comes on - requests to the local factory on this issue go unheeded. Surge protectors also add to this load. And the current wet weather will help as well to show up poor insulation of cable cuts and connectors. Sometimes my rcd also trips when the power comes back. If you have several rcds in sub db’s (seems you have them) the more sensitive one will trip first. Currently five rcds in five sub dbs. I’ve installations done this way, thinking each one will protect its own db, but their sensitivity vary widely. So it was actually just a waste of time and money. It also sends you on a wild goose chase untill you figure it out. I’ve bought a plug ma tester (useful to own for about R250) and it is usefull to show the trip sensitivity of an rcd - I’ve once returned a Hager rcd based on this and it was swopped out with not even a shoulder shrug. Makes one wonder hmmm... The only real solution is to get an expensive slow trip rcd, do a seach for info in the forum. It is not legal to install a >30ma rcd in homes (you get them). I could never get hold of a slow trip 30ma and they sold for about R1700, not exactly ACDC prices. I also notice a wider variety of rcd’s nowadays.

I must say I’ll pay Eskom gladly their 0,78c per kwhr which they charge the local robbers. Plus my account will always be up to date. Promise ... I don’t feel under obligation to pay for the caders..

Disagree totally. If they can charge me I must be able to penalise them for loadshedding and power failures. I get supplied by the munisipality who owes them R3b btw. When last could they meet their demand 100% They keep their lips flapping - thats all. No discussions of any kind will save their (and the ainncee) asses.

I remember the Richardts Bay aluminium smelter saga from a few years ago where the consumers were subsidising them due to a very generous contract Eskom had with them. I don’t know what the outcome of that was but my logic tells me that scenarios like that one continues to this day. We often see reports that government departments have not been settling their accounts. Combine that with fraud and I have no sympathy for them. We know their (extremely well renumerated) labour is far more than required. They also tried to get rid of their housing subsidy book some years ago. Rumour had it their workers got 100% loans at 0% rate. Think of how they must have panicked to start paying market related rates. So much of their misfortune is home made.

Thanks

How far did you open it? 90 degrees?

Gents, I am busy connecting the pv side up. But I’m gobsmacked on figuring out how the pv connectors inside the 8kW inverter works. I’m afraid I’ll break it when I force it open to clamp a 6mm cable. Please assist.

This topic can be argued till the cows come home. I can sum it up with a few sentences. 1. Eskom is in deep financial trouble with no way out. They are also rapidly running out of coal supplies. Due to their own meddling I must add. 2. The ANC has now way of getting Eskom to be ever sustainable again. But they will start adding to the tariffs. Think unfenced petrol tariff. 3. Most of the electricity tariff payments go towards subsidising unsustainable municipalities with thousands of unnecessary kadre workers. This is no secret. 4. This country will run out of electricity for our population. You need to become self sufficient asap.

Buyer beware. I wish you success to get technical support for an inverter from Takealot.

Don’t buy electric stuff from Takealot. They give a 6 month’s warranty only on electrical items. Read their Terms and Conditions. Burnt my fingers with them - just returned a faulty expensive battery charger to them. Still waiting for refund after one week. And there were signs they’ve sent that item out previously. I broke my own rule not to buy electrics from them anymore.

I know, the alarm showed it. But I need to wipe all the info I’ve put into the System Mode. I’m not getting it done on the touch screen. Think I’ll mail support.

Four Pylontech us2400

Gents, I’m trying to reset to factory specs with pw 9999 but is not doing what I want. Currently I’m using the inverter as a ups. When I set it up the first time I’ve put in the time, soc etc in but now I need to clear it. I want to set it up according to the newest booklets sent out by Keith. The reset does not do it. I clears the alarms only and leave all the setup stuff in When a heavy load starts up (borehole pump) the inverter uses the batteries and it trips. Any advice will be appreciated.

You can / should apply for exemptions from these rules as they (probably) apply to uncovered roofs. We used to apply for exemptions all the time in the mining industry. It is all about risk management. Your ex contractors know this and are escaping their responsibilities. Find out who the environmental inspector for your area is and make an appointment. Greenies are kindhearted people.

Rules much longer than that in place. Problem is disposing of the material as you cannot dump it at the municipal dump. Go for a Kliplok roof.

Check if the batteries you’re interested in is here: https://batterytestcentre.com.au/batteries/ Buyer beware - a lot of interesting facts here. If a battery manufacturer does not participate skip their product. Batteries is one very crucial aspect of (expensive) solar setups. I believe in the saying that long after you’ve forgotten the price you still remember the pain. “give me less current than the 2 bull units” You can suck any battery dry. The current draw (in amps) is not an issue for me - I don’t let the stove and geyser run on batteries. Making breakfast with an electric skillet and boiling water with a small kettle is no problem with my setup when the power is off.

Had the firmware / software updated to e415-MCU:3870 I reaaly hoped it was going to fix the Li Bms reading but it did not. I think I might have mixed up the yellow can cable as Ive had a few laying around on my table. Could I ask a kind soul to post a picture of his can pin layout so I can compare. But overall the Sunsynk is performing well - it does not make a sound when my borehole pump starts off at 35a. The previous 4kw inverter was pushed into alarm mode at 128% by it. Is it possible to get the Sunsynk to give an alarm when losing municipal power? I need it as I still need to isolate the borehole pump as I really would not like it to run from the batteries. A suitable timer for it is in the future. Just not right now. Has someone invented a better way to control loads like this?

Push for a free wifi dongle with the Sunsynk 8 kw - it is essential. Got mine from fullcirclesolar.co.za Go for the latest JA Solar 445 w mono solar panels. Pylontech batteries is a proven brand - I have 4 x usb2400 and they are good. One guy on the forum went for 2x Sunsynk 5,5kw inverters - look at his posts as well. Your after sunset consumption dictates how big your batteries shoud be.

My brother has the same type of gel batteries and the same short runtime. And he kept his DOD to just 90%. if a 12v acid battery falls to just under 10v it is dead and cannot recover. Your inverter can cope with charging lithium batteries. There are good prices on Pylontech now. If you reduce your load you may be able to extend their life. Don’t waste money on battery balancers. I bought Pylontech batteries a short time after his installation and my setup is still 100%. My 4 x Pylontech 2000 batteries have lasted 4 days at a time when the power was out. They also recharge to 100% far quicker than a gel battery. Personally my opinion is that gel batteries were a wasted R25k.

Take note that switching power on and off also create surges. On my photo (busy with some rework) you can see the surge suppressor. It prevented serious lightning damage in the db last season.

Really the start option. The one light being off indicates it is defective. It is also supposed to go in next to the mains isolator. It is also dependand on whether you live in a high lightning area like the Highveld. Just google surge suppressors.

I have a 8kw Sunsynk and it kicks ass. All inverters have specifications regarding the panel watts (not really relevant) and the maximum dc voltage (most relevant). You need to do some reading on this topic on the forum. It is also a good idea to get an idea of your consumption by measuring it.

One assumes that the municipal supply has the necessary neutral earth connection. When I did my db mods after the inverter it was necessary to create this myself as the neutral had to be independant (there is a lot of posts on this subject on the forum). It caused tripping before the linkup between the earth and neutral. I changed my db to a high and low amp side as my inverter was only 4kw. I remember all the neutrals had to be traced as my house is quite old and it was a real mixup after years of mods. I’ve replaced my oldish inverter with a new 8kw Sunsynk and I intend to run the whole house through it. I am just awaiting delivery of three new changeover switches so It can be done safely. Hopefully the high amp side will behave. But the low amp side with its own earth neatral connection is running fine. The only way, as mentioned, is to measure the volts between the neutral and earth on the inverter output. The better way is if you can measure the ma with a clampmeter. The rcd must also be installed on the output side of the inverter. Btw, one of the initial problems had been faulty Ellies plugs. I threw a lot of them away and replaced them with a decent (and cheap) surge suppressor mcb in the db. I’ve become a convert to db surge suppressors after my borehole was damaged by a surge.