Dirkie

Yes, I have clients running completely off-grid and the Gen is connected to the Grid input and the AUX/GEN is used to run aircons and other non-essentials. The inverter can still start the Generator via normal inverter logic and charge the battery to the desired level (According to the Time-of-use)

Yes, probably better to connect to the Gen port if possible though. 
There is a box to select for if you are connecting a generator to the grid port. 
Not 100% sure what it does exactly but I would assume it opens up the permitted frequencies and voltages and slows down the ramping up of the load on the generator so as not to stall the generator. Open to correction from anyone who actually knows 🙂  

That's not my understanding, though I have no experience with a 3-phase installation.
My understanding is that internally there is still a master and two slaves, but they won't display as such. Which one will be the master doesn't matter, and in theory could change every time you power up. In practice, almost always one will be the master, though if you really care, you can turn on the one that you want to be the master first.
It probably doesn't even matter if the master of one of the slaves connects to the battery's BMS.

That's actually a really hard question to answer; I thought it would be fairly easy.
So far it looks like it will use voltage thresholds for battery under-voltage if the battery type is non-lithium (including USE). Under-voltage means it's under the cut-off voltage setting.
But if the battery type is a lithium type (PYL, WEC, SOL...), then so far it looks like it never considers the battery to be under voltage. I suspect strongly that I haven't found alternative code that kicks in for lithium battery types.
Hopefully I'll sort it out soon.

Send us the setting pages or screenshots of the inverter settings. Do you have a comms cable between battery and inverter. How is the FW  connected? RJ45 Socket x 2 – CAN Bus for interfacing with inverters and communication for the connection of parallel batteries – note that parallel batteries must all be of the same model. 

Have to agree with @TaliaBthe FreedomWon does have Comms direct to the OG10. It uses the Lib protocol on he OG10 & uses the FreedomWon Canbus to RS485 converter box. There is a lot of fundamentals to get right to make it all work properly. The FreedomWon batteries also will shutdown at 10% SoC so that is something to note as well. At 10% the battery breaker will physically trip. So a slightly higher Voltage for shutdown must be observed in this instance maybe 49V. Do the OG10s have the same firmware?? Do the FreedomWons have the same matched battery profiles? A lot to consider before one can have predictable operations. 

If only three inverters are used in a three phase installation there is no master or slaves because the units are not connected in parallel.
If more than one unit is connected in parallel on the same phase then the two units will work together but I do not see that there are any indication that one will be master and the other will be slave.
If more than one unit are used in parallel on the same phase please make sure that all the wiring to and from the units are correct and that the current sharing cables are only used on units in parallel which are on the same phase. The communications cables are used on all the units irrespective of phase but the current sharing cables are not.
Any of the inverters in a three phase installation can be used to communicate with the battery if supported by the inverter, the unit communicating with the battery must be set to the correct setting (PYL, UEC, SOL, LIb, SEG) and the other inverters which are not communicating with the battery must be set to USE.

One step further is that the Solar Assistant and Pi support a large list of batteries in terms of rs485/Rs232 & CANbus protocols & that was the inventors original business study: To support a huge variety of batteries to non supported inverters & bridge the Comms Gap. By using Solar assistant you will have SoC % from your battery extracted by the Pi & be able to run your OG10 as if it had Comms. The Pi will be your SoC % Interpreter between your Inverter & battery.

Yes the batteries are set to use 

Hi @Dirkiethat is possible. Most ppl use Solar assistant. This screenshot below if of an OG10 in action & as you can see, this has the the newer firmware, that incorporates % SoC from the Battery BMS. If however, you don't have Comms supported by either your battery or your inverter & you use the USE settings this then goes to Voltage settings for inverter shutdown value. Solar assistant is a Pi based platform & a very useful tool to carry out the function you have just enquired on. 
 

As per my What Axpert Firmware is That? post, the first is for the older '2809 DSP chipset, and the latter is for the newer '28066 DSP chipset. One may have a few more minor revisions, as indicated by the difference in minor version numbers (after the dot). 

Hi @Jopie here is 90.28 for Axpert Max 7.2Kw
90-28 OG-7.2.zip

Not in an Axpert Max I (non-II) 8 kW, no. Sorry for the bad steer.
90.14 is later than 90.06, but it's been confirmed that it doesn't have all the bugs fixed. Since it's the best available right now, I'll upload it soon.
Edit: it's here:
 

Unfortunately, you can't tell by looking at the label (one of my pet gripes). You have to check the range of setting 26 (bulk/absorb voltage); its maximum possible value will be either 58.4 V or 64.0 V. If the former, you need 74.40e, if the latter, you need 72.20e. I believe that if you try to use the wrong one, it won't start the firmware upload process or erase the existing firmware, so no harm is done. Not all combinations of firmware and inverter model have this safeguard, unfortunately 🧱.

Pylon US3000C 3.5kWh Li-Ion Solar Battery (excl. brackets): DIP switch has been deployed reversely. ON is down, OFF is UP. If DIP switches need to be 1000 then set it to 1110. MAX DISCHARGE AND CHARGE RATE IS ONLY APPLICABLE FOR +- 60 SECONDS. The maximum allowed voltage is 53.5V, please ensure that you check the inverter settings are below this BEFORE plugging in the UTILITY/SOLAR to the inverter. Please ensure that you have the correct BMS cable for the correct inverter.

PV is boosted to bus voltage, and the inverter injects very close to the same amount of energy as the load into the utility/load (which are connected together when bypass is showing). There are probably some tens of watts flowing one way or the other (into or out of the utility), but I'm guessing it's happy to report this as zero. There's probably a few tens of watts of measurement uncertainty as well.
Ignore the red and blue parts of the below diagram; both switches are closed (on):

Good day
I accidently figured out what to do the get the batteries charged.......
Turns out USB setting must be used on the MAX inverters. USB setting on the MAX is the same thing as SUB on the VMiii.
2 nights ago I switched over from battery mode (SBU) to utility (SUB) as I planned to use the aircon and don't want it running from the batteries. I accidently put it on USB instead of SUB. The next morning it charged the battery as "first priority". 😂
The MAX is perfect, just a little feeding back to the grid, but I can live with that.
Overall I'm very happy now

Good day
Bad news again with the 7.2kW MAX...
Seems like all 3 versions of software does the same thing, no charging of the batteries in cloudy conditions and it feeds back when the sun comes out...
Below I attached a screenshot, orange is load, green solar, red grid. Around 12:30 the geyser switched off and then it pumped 800W back to the grid, luckily I saw this and switched it back to SBU mode... Same thing just before 16:00, I switched it to SUB and immediately it fed back to the grid, switched back to SBU again...
The bottom graph shows battery charged nicely (SBU mode) until the geyser switched on at 10:00. At about 10:20 I switched it to SUB which worked as it should (red line) until it switched off as per above. But one can also see that no charging happened while the load was more than what the PV could provide.
It's a pity it doesn't read the battery current, that's why "battery watts" and "Current" is zero.
Today is very cloudy again, I'll be brave and leave it on SUB for the next 24 hours and have a look at those graphs again 😒

It is truly addictive isn't it 😀 And even more so when you realise the power you are using during the day is all for free essentially - gave me a complete mindset change.
Enjoy the new system and your new found freedom 😆

Good day,
I have had some additional plugs installed at my house by a contractor.  I am mildly unimpressed with the quality of work.   Being rather handy my self i'm happy that the work however messy and rushed, shouldn't burn my house down. 
However I am not familiar with the legislation and laws around passing electrical compliance. Hence the reason for the contractor.
 
I have several concerns with their install.
1: are joins in the roof allowed? If so can you just twist them with some electrical tape? Or does one have to use a chocolate block in some sort of box or enclosure.
2: Can you run single strand cables in the roof without conduit? I think you can with twin flex.
3: Does color coding of the wires matter? They have used blue as earth on the plugs instead of green? 
 

Thank you very much @Dirkie. 

I do not know maybe the suplier install it before they shipped it out to us

Good day
I managed to flash 12.13 and 90.28 just now... I was very happy at first to see that it charged the battery in SUB mode, until the AC kicked on again... Then it draws 0.5A
I'll see if it feeds back to the grid tomorrow and report back... But at this moment it seems like the same problem still exists... No charging of the batteries in SUB mode no matter what charge settings are used if there is insufficient solar power...
Tomorrow my new batteries arrive then I'll have 16x 105Ah deep cycles, should be enough to just keep it in SBU mode permanently... It's just those cloudy days that worries me a bit... I usually would put it on SUB mode before I leave for work on the old VMiii, then I knew my batteries would be fully charged and access solar would not be wasted.
Thanks for all your help @Dirkie and @Coulomb
PS Still no feedback from supplier wrt their firmware yet, I'll post here if they send it😀

Its a common sight for me to see this type of crap wiring ... normally the response from the customer would be ... "but its worked like that for 20 years, why are you saying its illegal ?" 
Open wiring ... has a code .. .but that type of wiring would be a code violation.
Open joints taped up like that ... are code violations.
Using blue wires as a neutral or earth/CPC ... it gets interesting ... because we use the blue as a phase wire ... however in a domestic installations ... people seem to feel it is ok because the cabtyre neutral is blue ... you are allowed to wiring up your house using cabtyre ... provided you take certain regulations into consideration ... personally I would put a short piece of heat shrink on the blue wire to identify it is "black/neutral" or green/yellow for earth ... or even strip the insulation  if the blue is used as the earth wire. 
Just looking at those pictures (a bit difficult to see what is actually going on) ... I don't see a green/yellow earth.
I am assuming they didn't issue a COC ? 
A tip for anyone who calls an electrician ... every single semi skilled or skilled person in the electrical industry has some form of identification.
For example an eleconop 1 /2/3 
Electrician 
Single phase tester 
Installation electrician
Master electrician 
Each skill level has limits ... except a master electrician. 
If you call an electrical company to install a plug ... the person who installs the "isolated wiring" could be an elconop 1/2/3 for example ... however as soon as the wires are live then the minimum level would be a qualified electrician.
It is your responsibility as the owner or person renting to make sure the electrical work is reasonably safe ... so you as the owner would need to verify that the people dropped off on site are suitably qualified to carry the work they do ... as crazy as that sounds. 
My advise to you ... when people are dropped on site request the staff wear their card with their skill level ... in fact request a copy of each person skill level. 
The pictures above look like a labourer (unskilled person) did the wiring. 

All the latest Kodak Max Inverters that I have installed for my customers have the 90.28 firmware on them