DeonBez

Item: 14.3kWh DIY Battery Kit
Age: New
Price: R32500 per kit (collected)
Payment Method Accepted: Cash / Instant EFT
Warranty: 3 years on the cells - non-local supplier
Packaging: Original for most
Condition: New
Location: Strand, Western Cape
Reason: I built enough for myself - cells leftover after builds for my own use and friends/family
Shipping: Not preferred
Collection: Yes, please 
Links: Pictures, JK BMS, LCD, Terminal Set (almost like this one) EVE280K-Product-Specification-Sheet.pdf
14.3kWh DIY Kit includes:
16x EVE 280Ah LifePo4 cells (LF280K cells package in 4x padded boxes each with 4x cells)
Eva foam padding between cells
Yellow Fiberglass isolation sheets under cells
Vertical Aluminum Box with high density silicon feet, threaded rods with compression plates for securing/mounting of 2 rows of 8x cells
200A JK BMS with built-in 2A active balancer including switch, cables and 3.5” LCD screen
2x 200A DC terminal sets (Black/Orange and male/female for 50mm2 battery cables)
200A DC breaker and fuse holder with 400A fuse
Assembly optional: Will assemble and test on request – only for collection as don’t want to package and ship a heavy (>100 kg) battery

Hi everyone, so I had the need to get daily, weekly and monthly solar statistics emailed to me but after requesting this directly from the Solar-Assistant team for months, I decided to create it myself. I have made it available to all if you can find the use for it and can be found here - https://github.com/Stef1986/email_scheduler_solar_assistant
Once you have cloned the repo locally, you simply edit the .env file with your Solar Assistant's MQTT details as well as your reporting preferences and run the docker-compose up.
Just have a look at the README.md, it should be detailed enough to get you going.
As a quick overview, basically what will happen is on the host of your choosing, you will run the docker container that will subscribe to the MQTT topic created in Solar-Assistant and will ingest all the data. It will then (based on your choosing) schedule daily, weekly and/or monthly statistic reports to be emailed to your inbox.

The body of the email will contain a nice table with statistics (configurable in the .env file) with min/max/avg values as well as a csv attachment (also configurable) containing the totals for daily, weekly and monthly for stats like PV generated, Battery in, Battery out, etc etc

Hope you guys enjoy and if this helped you, consider supporting my efforts with a beer or two 😁🍻

You may need to be more aggressive with your pricing.
Right here on PowerForum Store you can get a Deyness 14.3 kWh LFP with 10 year warranty for R37 375.
Dyness PowerBrick 14.336kWh Lithium Battery
 

Hi IvanZah,
I have followed a more convenient way and used the M5Stack Core 1 and the Commu-Module. The CAN-Port is connected to the Deye PCS connector only. It is running for almost a year now.
I could deliver you the Arduino Code. And help you with the code and setup. 
best regards
Peter
 
 
 
 

Good Day @MrNj
 
Over Voltage for a prolonged period may have caused cell damage or BMS damage as explained above.
Recommended charge voltages for the 48v 5.09kwh battery is
Bulk : 54v
Float : 52.5v
Low Cutoff : 43.5v
 
Your battery would need to be sent in to us for cell and BMS diagnostic. 
OVP - Over Voltage Protection - 270 instances, does void warranty, but i will assist in a resolution, please pm me and i can assist you.  

This is very impressive. Well done and GLWS!
Jay

Nice @GJ Cronje. Which enclosure and BMS do you plan to use? 

This explains a lot...
 

Apologies for stepping in on a classified thread... 
@ZS1SCI look at this thread. If you are interested in a box let me know. I have a font panel that fits the JK BMS 3.2" LCD and the JBD BMS LCD.

Q10 looks like it has been hand re-soldered; possibly the wave soldering was found to be suspect by an inspector, or it didn't work and this was re-soldered to fix the problem.
But this is the main power supply. If the LC Display is on, then that would seem to be working fine. As you will probably find in the service manual, I think you should be directing your attention to the circuit with Q6 and TX2, the soft start power supply. In the top right hand corner of this partial schematic trace, you'll see the "transformer" and diode connect directly to the DC bus, to start it softly (with a few watts).

Hi @Coulomb , I think i founded the problem. So I Strip the motherboard out and check the underside, and i think i founded the problem. Q10 that is BSX53. You can see in the photos that it looks suspect. I check your drawing and thanks again for posting it. It really help. 



I think to replace Q9 to just for in case to.  

So it seems that the inverter itself (the DC to AC power converter part) is fine.
So it sounds like the soft start circuit itself. It is a small power supply that pushes current into the bus capacitors via a transformer (technically a multi-winding inductor since it has an air gap) and a single diode.
Liveware bug!  🙂 🕷️
But that doesn't seem to be the cause, or at least not any more.   
At the usual on-line places: Mouser, Digi-Key, RS-Online. But that through-hole one marked U10 is most likely the one for the main power supply. If that wasn't working, you'd have no display.
Excellent.
So it certainly sounds like the soft start circuit is struggling to charge the bus. Once it's charged, it will work fine, by your reports.
So... sometimes it comes at lot closer?. So it seems intermittent, and it would need to get to over 400 V (8 times the battery voltage) to pass the test (under the most common conditions.)
You need to pull the mother board again, and check the soft start circuit. Partial schematic trace here. There is another UC3845, U16, but surface mount. (Purchase from the same places, but make sure you get the surface mount version, and the 8-pin version, not the 14-pin version). Typically it will be a UC3845D1, but it could have an 8 near the end. But first check the hard working components, Q6 D65 R39 R40 R251 C14, then all the other passives. I'd say U16 is working, since you get some charging of the bus, just not enough. It's possible but highly unlikely that U16 is producing too weak (or narrow) a pulse to perform an effective soft start. So it's likely to be one of a dozen parts in the soft start circuit.

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! happy dans!!! Got it sorted. Called some places and voltronics and voltronics was really nice. Ask them some questions and i Informed them that i will be opening the inverter to inspect. So this afternoon I switch on the inverter but disconnect the batteries from it, it starts up and bypass go's on from 230v in and out. Connect  batteries, relay clicks and fans kicks in and then 10sec error 9 pops up. lets test solar side. Disconnect batteries, connect solar, switch 230v in on, inverter switch on, fans kicks in, connect batteries, batteries start charging from solar side, switch on output side of 230v, 10sec error 09 pops up. solar is still charging but no power output. HHHmmmmmm
So i open the inverter to inspect.  Everything looked ok inside and nothing burned or IGBTs and/or MOSFETs blown up. Pulled the mother board to check if everything is ok and cleaned the pins, plug it everything in and guess what, it starts up and charging and do things it must do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
Thanks for everyone help and input!!!  

I managed to find the settings in PbmsTools 2.5 to change the numbers of cells, It's under "System Config" and then "Cell Number Setting" You have to type in the number of cells you have and then click "Setting" in order it to save the number.
When I changed the BMS settings from 16 cells to 15 cells, the BMS no longer monitored cell 14, (was expecting it to no longer monitor cell 16) but continued monitoring cell 15 and 16. I had to move the wire from cell 15 to the cell 16 input on the BMS and the wire from cell 14 to the cell 15 input on the BMS. The cell 14 input on the BMS is now no longer connected to any cells. Now on the BMS display, it has a dash - next to cell 16 instead of 0V and the low cell fault has disappeared.
I'm not sure if there's a local supplier of Pace BMSs, I got mine on Facebook Marketplace, the seller had a 52V 100Ah battery that had a few cells fail. He kept the cells and sold me the empty box and BMS.

@GJ Cronje I used and sold some of the Seplos MASON 280 boxes. But currently seems too expensive due shipping overhead and prices that came down.
A friend of mine manufactured these boxes using 3mm aluminum:




The JBD 300A BMS was used on this.

Yeah that is quite pricey just for my 11kw 16 cell battery. But..... I am thinking of adding another 32 300ah cells and building a power wall

@DeonBezLooks nice! Here is a box I used for a golf cart, but this was made by the buyer, mine is powder coated. But this is just for a certain type of cart, as they differ in size for all the different carts. Those wires are just for charging
 

@GJ Cronje I used and sold some of the Seplos MASON 280 boxes. But currently seems too expensive due shipping overhead and prices that came down.
A friend of mine manufactured these boxes using 3mm aluminum:




The JBD 300A BMS was used on this.

I am using a powder coated metal box made for the cells and bms. BMS I will be testing is the JK energy storage bms with screen and ports (JK-PB1A16S10P). I am planning to build myself a "power wall" but need more time for that. Will have 44kw after adding this 14kw to my current setup. The rest will go to the people which cannot really afford solar and to maybe another golf cart in a wildlife estate.
 
Will have to order the next batch soon, might go for EVE or CATL again.

Depends on the specific battery. Check the lowest depth of discharge according to the battery specs and set the discharge limit accordingly on the Sunsynk. If you discharge to that depth once per day you should have several thousand cycles at your disposal.
I wouldn't worry for now whether you are discharging enough. Winter is coming, nights will be longer, days will be darker, and that problem should take care of itself.
You could work out the cost per cycle as something like
Price / (5.5kWh x no of cycles over life x DoD x efficiency).
So for example if you paid R30,000 for the battery plus installation, and it offers 6000 cycles using 80% down to 20% remaining, and you assume 90% efficiency, each battery cycle effectively costs you R1,26/kWh. If that's less than what you're paying for using Eskom instead, feel free to cycle the battery down and get your money's worth out of it.

Possibly one of the most comprehensive tests was done by Sandia National Labs:
https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1149/1945-7111/abae37/pdf

The bottom chart shows the total kWh discharged from the battery from new until it degraded to 80% of its initial capacity.
There is roughly 20% improvement between 100% and 20% DoD.  The difference between 60% and 20% is negligible. Would have been nice to have more data points to find where the knee point is, but it is certainly not much to be gained going much below 60% DoD.
 
What is striking though, is how much difference other factors (temperature and C rating) make.  If you really want the most from the cells, then:
1) keep them cool, and
2) stick at or below 1C discharge.

This is mine:
 
ESP32 talks to the SP3232 transceiver (yellow wires), which has 2 channels in each direction, perfect for 2 UARTs. The jumpers at the bottom either swap RX/TX (two blocks on either side), or connect/disconnect the TX lines from the transceiver/ESP32. When the ESP32 TX lines are disconnected, the ESP32 can snoop but not transmit, which is enough for most purposes.
I run ESPHome on the ESP32, because it has a ton of useful functionality (OTA updates, built in UART buffering, debug logging via WiFi, etc), and simply put the Sunsynk dongle on one side, and a DE9 cable to the inverter on the other side.
The string of numbers you posted is actually just the dongle trying to identify the address of the inverter (first column). Second column (3) is a "read holding register" command, starting at address 0, and returning 9 registers. last two columns are the CRC. Apparently the inverter was not responding for some reason. Not connected, maybe?
0 3 0 0 0 9 132 29 1 3 0 0 0 9 133 204 2 3 0 0 0 9 133 255 3 3 0 0 0 9 132 46 4 3 0 0 0 9 133 153 5 3 0 0 0 9 132 72 6 3 0 0 0 9 132 123 7 3 0 0 0 9 133 170 8 3 0 0 0 9 133 85 9 3 0 0 0 9 132 132 10 3 0 0 0 9 132 183 11 3 0 0 0 9 133 102 12 3 0 0 0 9 132 209 13 3 0 0 0 9 133 0 14 3 0 0 0 9 133 51   

This is how I go about sniffing serial traffic between the ports.
As mentioned the ESP32 has 3 serial ports UART0, UART1 & UART2
 
#define RXD1 4 #define TXD1 2 #define RXD2 16 #define TXD2 17   void setup() {   Serial1.begin(9600, SERIAL_8N1, RXD1, TXD1); //Dongle   Serial2.begin(9600, SERIAL_8N1, RXD2, TXD2); //Inverter   Serial.begin(9600);   }   void loop() {   //From Dongle   if (Serial1.available() > 0) {     // read the incoming byte:     int incomingByte=0;     incomingByte = Serial1.read();     Serial2.write(incomingByte);   }   //From Inverter   if (Serial2.available() > 0) {     // read the incoming byte:     int incomingByte=0;     incomingByte = Serial2.read();     Serial1.write(incomingByte);   }   }  
Additionally to the above I make use of web serial to monitor the data
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp32-webserial-library/
Note the above interferes with the comms but I do get a response from the inverter. Also note the inverter does not send data all the time, It needs to be queried.
Using SolarAssistant as the "Dongle" I receive the following (Without spaces) that is sent to the inverter before the inverter will respond.
 
Below is in decimals, but using serial.print(intvalue,HEX); will format it hex if you like.
0 3 0 0 0 9 132 29 1 3 0 0 0 9 133 204 2 3 0 0 0 9 133 255 3 3 0 0 0 9 132 46 4 3 0 0 0 9 133 153 5 3 0 0 0 9 132 72 6 3 0 0 0 9 132 123 7 3 0 0 0 9 133 170 8 3 0 0 0 9 133 85 9 3 0 0 0 9 132 132 10 3 0 0 0 9 132 183 11 3 0 0 0 9 133 102 12 3 0 0 0 9 132 209 13 3 0 0 0 9 133 0 14 3 0 0 0 9 133 51   
Perhaps linking directly to the inverter's TX and then send to webserial may be a better idea.
Not shown in the below image, I use a DB9 Gender Changer to interface with the inverter.

So, it wasn't as simple as I thought it would be to get ESPHome running on the Sunsynk dongle.
Flashing is not too tricky, although I do end up contorting my fingers a little, holding 3 jumper wires for G,R,T and a pair of header pins with a jumper on them to bridge GPIO0 (aka "short for ISP" - edit: turns out this is GPIO8 on the C3) with one finger, and holding 3v3 against the capacitors to the left of the C3-Mini module to power it.
I used:
esptool.py -p /dev/cu.usbserial-01E7DF5F -b 230400 read_flash 0 $((4*1024*1024)) sunsynk2.bin to take a backup (it's a 4MB part, so you can do the calculation manually if you are using Windows).
Flashing a minimal config ended up in a boot loop when powered as above via a 3v3 supply, held against the decoupling caps. I guess it wasn't enough to power the WiFi when it initialises. So, using a DE9 breakout, and feeding 12V on the RI (pin 9), and ground on pin 5, I was able to get it running stably. It took me an AGE to figure out what pins to use for the uart! I first thought I'd be clever and use the ESPHome kickstart firmware to dynamically adjust the pins, and wasted a few hours trying to get that to work, firstly making changes for the ESP32C3, and then just iterating through the pins and looking for behaviour on the RX and TX pins of the DE9 connector. All for naught, the kickstart firmware just wasn't working properly for some reason.
BTW, I did test restoring the backup firmware, and it worked perfectly (when powered using 12V). It was actually the stock firmware boot loop when powered via 3v3 to the capacitors that clued me in to checking for power problems.
In the end, my diff to slip06x's config on github was pretty minimal:
diff -w ESPHome-1P-Sunsynk-Deye.yaml sunsynk_dongle.yaml 12c12 < board: nodemcu-32s --- > board: airm2m_core_esp32c3 14a15 > variant: esp32c3 60,61c61,62 < tx_pin: GPIO1 < rx_pin: GPIO3 --- > tx_pin: GPIO5 > rx_pin: GPIO6 67d67 < flow_control_pin: GPIO16 I did also figure out the GPIOs for the LEDs (3 and 7 for the red and green LEDs, respectively), but haven't yet bothered adding those to the config.
With that, you can now flash ESPHome onto your Sunsynk dongle, and detach yourself from the cloud entirely.

I actually built something like this, based on an ESP32. I posted some pictures of it, and a little description, here: https://infosec.exchange/deck/@RoganDawes/111595769934719217
Sorry, the pictures are too large for this forum 🙂
ESP32 has 3 UART's, I put an SP3232 on some veroboard to get 2 inbound signals and 2 outbound signals, mapped to U1RX/U1TX and U2RX/U2TX. The jumper pins in the middle let you switch from just snooping to active interception, by connecting the TX signals, and breaking the "Straight through" connections in the middle.
And yes, while it is possible to pass through the data from the genuine dongle (running e-linter firmware) to the inverter, and its responses in the other direction, and then issue your own commands when it is quiet so as not to trample over the e-linter comms, actually identifying and using those intervals of quiet is not the simplest problem to solve.
I think I mentioned it above, but another approach is to emulate the e-linter firmware using Wokwi, and forward the emulated UART to the dongle. Still some impedance matching required (e-linter firmware will expect a response within X ms, otherwise will resend the query, so you can simply drop a duplicated query, etc, etc).