Solarphile

Finally someone noticed......😂😂
I was getting worried about all this negativity going on, as if I did something wrong in warning everyone. 🤭
Just to clear things up for everyone out there. I do not buy or sell stolen batteries. 
All my batteries are brand new, not ex-MTN ! 
So if possible please change your reactions to something positive. 🙏🏻
 
Thank you 
Solaris 😁

Social media is a very dangerous platform. My name is Mark Stemmett one of the owners of Microcare. My tel number is 083 261 5907 and I welcome any call to resolve any issue. I would direct any member to our website microcare.co.za to look at what is on offer. In contradiction to what is has been written here on some of the posts I can only say I receive numerous calls on a daily basis from both installers and end users who phone simply to say thank you and compliment us for excellent service.
Please feel free to call me at any point if you have a problem that is unresolved. My commitment is for us to provide installers with a 100% satisfaction level of service. Please note we do not interact with end users.

With the experience you already have, is it not possible to do the work yourself and get a certified electrician to sign off on your work? 

With the experience you already have, is it not possible to do the work yourself and get a certified electrician to sign off on your work? 

Hi guys, from an installers perspective: A standard single phase installation that the customer has acquired the equipment and needs me to install without solar panels. standard installation with additions of changeover and AC protection DB with indicator lights and CoC in the ball park of between R18k - R23k if its not complex. 
The factors that are variable and influence pricing. AC cable lengths std 5m AC cable easy but when ones garage is 30m cable length away and there is ducting into and out of a roof you start to realize that there is more time and effort to this. 
Also depends on if there is a current existing CoC or do we need to issue a full new CoC and supplementary for the new alternative AC power solution. I use Schneider and Hager as my preferred brand of AC switch gear. A full CoC involves testing of every circuit and plug point.
All these variables come into the equation...
Now when you add panels then you get the DC Combiner box and I use Noark switchgear there. A DC combiner box can add between R2.5k to R5k onto the price depending on the configuration. A battery isolator also depending on size can be along the lines of R3k. Then DC battery cables which are also not cheap.
Then PV DC cable and Bosal metal conduit and earth spikes etc. 
Dont get me wrong you can get this system up and running or barely so. Doesnt mean it will be safe nor will it be functional for a long time. But there are good operators and then some chancers. 
Where do installers generate their revenue from: Margin on equipment sales (We get equipment at wholesale prices then sell at Consumer prices). Now once you supply the equipment you remove a large portion of revenue. So the installation only fee with required accessories is unfortunately higher because there is less earning capacity left.
Like any contractor selection, do they come recommended because word of mouth is crucial in this game. Do they provide after sales support and are they contactable post installation?
Do they have a google business page and a review section with more than 10 reviews? 
You spending hard earned cash. Choose wisely.

Was it Microcare themselves who installed the system, or perhaps an installer who just used their products? 
From my experience I have found Microcare to be very helpful. 

I have a 10Kw Microcare inverter that has been running nonstop for 4 years. I also have two Microcare MPPT’s that have also been running for the same time. 
My opinion is that they have fantastic products. 

I cannot give any feedback on this battery, but I have noticed that majority batteries (including Pylontech) are made in China. The cells are basically all the same, but what changes is the BMS. For many of us, we don’t mind buying a Daly or ANT BMS and slapping it in should the standard BMS give any trouble at all. I took a chance a few weeks ago buying some cheaper “second life” lithium batteries on Black Friday special, and I am really impressed with how well they perform. Another forum member (Gandalf) also bought these same batteries and is happily running off grid with them for the last three weeks.
Some people prefer to have communication between inverter and battery, but for me, if my inverter switches off at 48V and my charge controller charges to 56v, why do I need communication? Added complexity and more gizmos don’t make sense to me. (This is my personal opinion) 
If it comes at good price and comes with at least a 5 year warranty, I would go for it. 

In an announcement Wednesday, Scottish engineering firm Orbital Marine Power explained how its 2 megawatt O2 turbine had been anchored in a body of water called the Fall of Warness, with a subsea cable linking it to a local electricity network on land. It's expected that the turbine, which is 74 meters long, will "operate in the waters off Orkney for the next 15 years," the company said, and have "the capacity to meet the annual electricity demand of around 2,000 UK homes."

I was also looking at this same unit about a year ago. After much reading, research and a long inner debate,  I decided to scrap the wind turbine idea and rather add more solar panels.
For around R18k I am happily producing an additional 14kwh (average) per day. 
Judging from this thread I think I made the right decision. 

I was also looking at this same unit about a year ago. After much reading, research and a long inner debate,  I decided to scrap the wind turbine idea and rather add more solar panels.
For around R18k I am happily producing an additional 14kwh (average) per day. 
Judging from this thread I think I made the right decision. 

While I am practically off grid now, I wasn’t always in this position. 

Years ago I started with one 180w solar panel, a cheapie 20A pwm controller and a 105Ah deep cycle battery. All the rooms in my house were fitted with 12V 5W LED down lights that ran straight off that battery. I also had two 12V 10W LED floodlights into the back and front yards. 
 
The idea of having lights on everywhere changed the whole family’s mood and made the load shedding more tolerable. 😊
We would have missed lights the most during load shedding. 

Hi Guss
Welcome to the world of solar power. A world where you can turn lights on at any time you choose. A world where nobody else dictates when you can do a washing load. A world where you never have to miss your favorite show.....  This is the best decision you have ever made.

We don’t worry about load shedding, we make our own power!! 
 
If you need any advice on anything, we are ALL here to help. 
 

While I am practically off grid now, I wasn’t always in this position. 

Years ago I started with one 180w solar panel, a cheapie 20A pwm controller and a 105Ah deep cycle battery. All the rooms in my house were fitted with 12V 5W LED down lights that ran straight off that battery. I also had two 12V 10W LED floodlights into the back and front yards. 
 
The idea of having lights on everywhere changed the whole family’s mood and made the load shedding more tolerable. 😊
We would have missed lights the most during load shedding. 

Thanks! I had a closer look at the MC4 connector. The actual socket (that you crimp) doesn't have a strain relief portion for the insulation of the cable (like the automotive connectors do). The strain relief mechanism is built into the plastic housing. So to complete the installation properly you need to screw the strain relief collar at the end of the connector to secure the cable.
The strain relief connectors that I have have a large diameter so I doubt if it will clamp cables with smaller diameters.
If the strain relief isn't tightened then all strain on the cable is borne by the crimped socket so this doesn't bode well for maintaining a good connection. 

This is where the problem appears to originate. I pulled the connector apart and it appears there was no solder and also I see rust inside.
GVC was right too in that there was no crimping
The Y-connector itself didn’t have an issue. The connection from the Y- connector to the cables going to the controller was the weak point. 
Thank you guys, this appears to be solved. 😁
 

You are going to get mixed feelings about this.
While many forum members say that this communication is mandatory, I have personally never used this feature. I have also seen many installations by other installers without said cables. My personal reasoning is that the BMS takes care of balancing and protection from overcharge or overdischarge. The charge controller only charges to a certain voltage and the inverter switches off at a certain discharge voltage. For me that is good enough. 
 
The one area I could foresee a problem arising is if you had too small a battery bank and too big a solar array. In that case communication might help to keep the charge amperage to acceptable level. 

Who is making the claim? Is this what your electrician has stated?
If so, then I have a couple of problems in a few of my homes, as well as the homes of friends...

From the feedback on this forum, bloody good!

I cannot give any feedback on this battery, but I have noticed that majority batteries (including Pylontech) are made in China. The cells are basically all the same, but what changes is the BMS. For many of us, we don’t mind buying a Daly or ANT BMS and slapping it in should the standard BMS give any trouble at all. I took a chance a few weeks ago buying some cheaper “second life” lithium batteries on Black Friday special, and I am really impressed with how well they perform. Another forum member (Gandalf) also bought these same batteries and is happily running off grid with them for the last three weeks.
Some people prefer to have communication between inverter and battery, but for me, if my inverter switches off at 48V and my charge controller charges to 56v, why do I need communication? Added complexity and more gizmos don’t make sense to me. (This is my personal opinion) 
If it comes at good price and comes with at least a 5 year warranty, I would go for it. 

Perhaps not what are looking for, but I see many questions on this forum about decent crimped cables. I reckon if you offered 50mm/70mm/90mm battery cables of various lengths with lugs already crimped on, you should have a good seller.
DC trip switches and fuses of around 200A to 250A seem to be a little harder to find. 
DC clamp meters are all so expensive. If you had one for a good price, that should also sell. 
A cheaper alternative to the Victron BMV would surely sell too.

Perhaps not what are looking for, but I see many questions on this forum about decent crimped cables. I reckon if you offered 50mm/70mm/90mm battery cables of various lengths with lugs already crimped on, you should have a good seller.
DC trip switches and fuses of around 200A to 250A seem to be a little harder to find. 
DC clamp meters are all so expensive. If you had one for a good price, that should also sell. 
A cheaper alternative to the Victron BMV would surely sell too.

Cheap and simple.... lightbulb 😂😂
Geyser on = light on.
Geyser off = light off.
 

 
 
 

This is a new geyser. I pushed the loose wire into the female lugs of the element. Then I inserted the thermostat into the element as usual. Some may argue that this is a “bush mechanic” way of doing things, but it works for me. 😊
 

This is a decent sized array, not too big not too small. This would serve your needs. You could also add to it later if need be.
 
The most cost effective size is around 335w, but if you plan to install them yourself beware, the 72 cell panels are a little heavy. They also tend to catch a lot of wind when you try to install them. Somehow whenever I install panels, the wind magically starts to blow harder than usual... 😂 60 cell panels are a little lighter and catch a little less wind, but you will need to install a few more of them. 

I had one of these in my last house and it was fantastic. It has a rotating dial that has little grey tabs that you click to the left. Each tab represents 15 minutes. I used to be able to turn my geyser on for anything from 15 minutes upward. I used to have it on for 30 minutes in the morning and 1 hour 15 minutes in the afternoon. That was enough to have hot water all day long.