GerhardK83

Hi everyone,
This forum has been an invaluable source of information for me over the years, so I thought I'd share something back in the hope that it helps someone else.
After quite a bit of trial and error, I finally got BMS communication working between a Greenrich U-P6100 and my SOL-I-AX-5KP Axpert King (Mecer branded).
Equipment
Inverter: SOL-I-AX-5KP (Axpert King Mecer branded)
Battery: Greenrich U-P6100 6.1kWh
Initially, the battery worked perfectly in USER mode, but there was no BMS communication.
The fix
Set Battery Type (Program 05) to PYL.
Connect the inverter BMS port to the RS485 port on the Greenrich battery (the RS485 port immediately next to the CAN port).
Use a standard Pylontech communication cable.
Important: The RJ45 end of the cable labelled "Pylontech" must be connected to the Greenrich battery. The other end connects to the inverter's BMS port.
Power up the battery first, then the inverter.
Communication was established immediately.
The inverter now:
Displays battery SOC correctly.
Receives BMS information.
Automatically manages battery charging and protection via the BMS.
I initially spent quite a bit of time trying CAN, LIB, LIA and USER modes, but on my setup the above configuration was the one that worked.
Hopefully this saves someone else a few hours of troubleshooting.
System
Greenrich U-P6100
SOL-I-AX-5KP (Axpert/Voltronic)
Program 05 = PYL
Greenrich RS485 port (next to CAN) → Inverter BMS port
Standard Pylontech communication cable (the end marked "Pylontech" plugs into the battery)

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Since you are not technical then in order to determine if the earth leakage is on the AC supply to the inverter or AC output of the inverter switch the earth leakage off and if the inverter goes to battery mode then you know that the earth leakage is on the supply side and if the inverter does not go to battery mode then the earth leakage is on the AC output of the inverter.
The alternative is to ask the installer or an electrician to come and inspect the installation to determine if the earth leakage is on the AC supply to the inverter or AC output of the inverter and draw a diagram of the system.

There are four factors which determine the cross sectional area of a cable
A] Cable Length
B] Cable Resistance
C] Operating Temperature
D] Current
Cable length and the cross sectional area of the cable has an influence on the resistance of the cable. The operating temperature also influences the resistance of the cable and also determines the type of insulation used on the cable. The current that the cable must be able to carry also influences the cable cross sectional area.
Silicone cable has a wider operating temperature so a thinner cable can be used for a short distance because the insulation of the cable would be able to handle the heat where PVC would not be able to handle the higher operating temperature and a thicker cable would be used so that the cable would not heat up and burn the insulation off.
To determine the cross sectional area of the cables in your photo one must either look at the cable insulation and see if it is not indicated on the insulation or measure one of the strands in the cable, calculate the cross sectional area of the strand measured and then count all the strands in the cable and multiply that by the cross sectional area of the one strand and that would be the total cross sectional area of the cable.

@Aartappel I would recommend that you contact @Steve87 he has experience with commercial systems of that scale, another option would be @TaliaB.

Both conditions in the above statements should never happen. The only time you should trip the overcurrent breaker is in the event of a short circuit or serious overload. Curve C current breakers is rated for 5 to 10 times it rated current. The only instance any inverter could cause large current draw on the ac input when synchronizing to the grid is in the event of the dc bus capacitors not charge up but with battery or pv connected first connecting to grid should be a gentle change over as the inverter is already inverting on synchronization.
In the event of a 120A breaker tripping as described by the op there is a serious problem within the wiring and should be properly investigated and I will strongly advise to shut down the main incoming feed until problem is found as suggest earlier on by @Scorp007

These are RCCB's(Residual Current Circuit Breakers) they do not have overload protection they are rated for 40A. They will trip if your leakage current exceeds ~ 300mA. You have and earth fault or more that 1 earth fault exceeding 300mA. You need to get a multifunction tester and 1. Check the external earth loop impedance Ze it should be 0.35 ohms for TN-C-S earthing systems and 0.8 ohm for TN-S.
2. Use the multifunctional tester to measure your standing leakage current. By using the scale start with 1/2 and 100ma and work your way up until the RCCB trips. Also ensure you don't have more that 1 earth neutral bond between point of supply and point of consumption or any point beyond point of consumption.

Should you have a short curcuit or overload condition your main or sub thermal magnetic breaker will trip without the RCCB's been affected.
One example of a multifunctional tester.(cheapest)

Good afternoon Tsa
As per SANS 10142:2006 the maximum allowable current for PVC insulated cables in a single phase installation when the cable is enclosed in conduit fixed to a wall or trunking fixed to a wall are as follows. For Multi-Phase the currents are lower.
For GP cable - That is the individual Black, Red, Blue, White, Yellow, Yellow and Green cables which are not bundled together with a second insulation over the individual cores and with 1 solid core or multiple thick strands
1.5 mm2: 17.5A, 2.5 mm2: 24A, 4.0 mm2: 32A, 6.0 mm2: 41A, 10.0 mm2: 57A, 16.0 mm2: 76A, 25.0 mm2: 101A
For Surfix and Twin and Earth  - A cable with more than 1 cores with 1 solid core or multiple thick strands individually insulated with a second insulation over the individual cores
1.5 mm2: 16.5A, 2.5 mm2: 23A, 4.0 mm2: 30A, 6.0 mm2: 38A, 10.0 mm2: 52A, 16.0 mm2: 69A, 25.0 mm2: 90A
The maximum cable operating temperature are not allowed to exceed 70 degree Celsius, if the temperature exceeds 70 degree Celsius a thicker cable must be used.
Cabtyre -A flexible cable with thin strands used for appliances, power tools, extension leads etc are not allowed in a DB.
The gap between the clamp of the MCB and the start of the insulation may not exceed 2mm.
There is also a limit of the number of cables entering or leaving an MCB and that limit is 3.
Another point that is misunderstood is that the MCB protects the cable and not the load supplied by the cable.
If a cable leaving the DB is joined and the cable that is joined is thicker or thinner than the other cable then the MCB must be rated for the thinner cable, for example a gate motor is to be installed and the cable leaving the house is 2.5 mm2 but you cannot get a 2.5 mm2 cable only 1.5 mm2 is available then the MCB must be rated for the 1.5mm2 cable.
Circuits are not allowed to be mixed on the MCB's eg Lights and Socket outlets on the same MCB.
Open spaces in the cover of the DB must be closed off so that you are protected from a electric shock and to keep insects, bugs, spiders, bees and wasps out of the DB.
MCB's must be marked with indelible ink or a proper label which is not easily removed.
If a DB is supplied by another DB then the sub DB and the supplying DB must be properly marked the same way MCB's are marked.
A Switch Dis-connector (isolator) must disconnect both L & N for single phase installations and all P's & N for multi-phase installations.
A 2 pole or 4 pole MCB are not allowed to be used as a switch dis-connector (isolator).
A MCB must trip all P's for multi-phase installations if there is a over current in any of the phases.
An Earth leakage must disconnect both L & N for single phase installations and all P's & N for multi-phase installations
PS CB is short for Miniature Circuit Breaker.

Good evening @Lourens1975
It all depends where the inverters are installed and where the Main DB is located and what environment the wire or wires or cable or cables are exposed to, also remember that with inverters running in parallel it is always better to have the cable protection for the inverters output as close to the inverter as possible and it is advisable to have an Isolator as well as a MCB for each inverter output in a single DB.
If the cable protection for each inverter's output is in a single DB then there is no problem later on if you want to run 1 or 2 thick wires or cables from the DB to the Main DB or separate wires or cables for each inverter to the Main DB. If 1 or 2 thick wires or cables are run from the DB to the Main DB then the outputs of the MCB's can be combined and fed to the outgoing wires or cables.
I distinguish between wire and cable because a cable consists out of multiple wires and it is important to know the difference. Loose wires that are used in the wiring of a premises are called GP Wire, Surfix and Twin and Earth are made up out of GP Wire and therefore it is a Cable and then you get SWA - Steel Wire Armoured which is also made up out of GP Wire so that is also a cable. The operating environment for each of these above mentioned types of wire and cable are different.

Kind Regards
GerhardK83

Good evening @Lourens1975
It all depends where the inverters are installed and where the Main DB is located and what environment the wire or wires or cable or cables are exposed to, also remember that with inverters running in parallel it is always better to have the cable protection for the inverters output as close to the inverter as possible and it is advisable to have an Isolator as well as a MCB for each inverter output in a single DB.
If the cable protection for each inverter's output is in a single DB then there is no problem later on if you want to run 1 or 2 thick wires or cables from the DB to the Main DB or separate wires or cables for each inverter to the Main DB. If 1 or 2 thick wires or cables are run from the DB to the Main DB then the outputs of the MCB's can be combined and fed to the outgoing wires or cables.
I distinguish between wire and cable because a cable consists out of multiple wires and it is important to know the difference. Loose wires that are used in the wiring of a premises are called GP Wire, Surfix and Twin and Earth are made up out of GP Wire and therefore it is a Cable and then you get SWA - Steel Wire Armoured which is also made up out of GP Wire so that is also a cable. The operating environment for each of these above mentioned types of wire and cable are different.

Kind Regards
GerhardK83

Oelof, the advice given is correct but the pump that is supplied by the tank does not need to be a VSD pump an ordinary vane pump or a centrifugal pump like the one in the photo will also work.
The reason why there is a tank or tanks is for water storage because the borehole pump typically deliver a flow of 1000l/h and if you open a tap and the borehole pump is off then there would be no water, if the borehole pump is on and you open a tap then you will get quite a surprise.
 
In order for the pressure pump to work there must be a height difference between the outlet of the tank and the inlet of the pressure pump so in other words the outlet of the tank must be higher than the inlet of the pressure pump even if the outlet of the tank is 200mm above the inlet of the pressure pump it will work once all the air is bleeded out to the inlet of the pump.
On the outlet of the pressure pump I would also look at a couple of pressure tanks like these, then the pressure pump does not start and stop every time a tap is opened if only a cup or two of water is used.

 
Another factor that must be considered with borehole water is, is it fit for human consumption so have the water tested and if need be invest in a filter system with a UV sterilizer.

Yes the DC rated MCB replaces the fuse holder and it is easy to replace if it is fitted in a DIN rail DB box provided that there are enough space in the DB box.
If the strings are separated then I would suggest the following ACDC 2 pole MCB's
CSMBS2DC20
For fuse holders and fuses I would suggest the following
SRD-30 and 30F20PV
SRD-63 and 30F20PV-L
SRD-32L and F1085GPV-20
221PV and 30F20PV-L
If both strings are in parallel then I would suggest the following ACDC 2 pole MCB's
CSMBS2DC40
I do not see any 40A fuses in ACDC's catalogue
 
Personally I would separate each string and provide a fuse holder or MCB for each string and after the fuse holder or MCB parallel the strings which goes to the inverter.

Good evening @LCBXX and welcome to the forum
I would opt for 2 or 3 x Kodak Max 7.2kW units in parallel unless you want to feed power back into the grid then it is either the 2 of 8kW or 1 of 16kW Deye or Sunsynk.
 
The cheaper inverters (e.g. Sun/Fivestar/Ecco/etc) are similar to the Axpert type inverters which cannot feed power back into the grid where the Deye and Sunsynk can feed power back into the grid or use solar power to power non essential loads depending where the current transformer is placed. 
 
If you opt for the cheaper inverters which cannot feed power back into the grid and you want the pool pump and heat pump to run off the solar then I would use timers and contactors to switch those loads, with the Deye and Sunsynk there are timers which can be set when the unit is allowed to power non essential loads.
 
The inverter chosen will determine which wattage and how many solar panels can be used with the said inverter e.g. the Kodak Max 7.2kW inverter has two solar power inputs each input is 4kW and a maximum open circuit voltage of 500V so 8 x 500W solar panes are on the power limit, I know that there is a bit of a grace but I would not push that limit power wise, voltage wise or current wise, also remember that there must be enough roof space to accommodate more solar panels.
I had a quick look at The Power Forum Store website and the Kodak Max 7.2kW inverter is currently just under R10k and 7 of JA Solar 505W would be just over R10k, the solar panels that are already installed can also be used with the Kodak Max 7.2kW inverter without any re- configuring because the current inverter has a high voltage solar power input where some of the other cheaper brands would be low voltage then there would to be a solar combiner box installed and the solar panels be reconfigured which add additional cost.
If I were you I would stick to known good brands like Kodak or Axpert some of these other inverter brands (e.g. Sun/Fivestar/Ecco/etc) are not bad but what happens if something goes wrong or you want to buy another one to be used in parallel at a later stage and the firmware version is different, where do you go for support.
 
If there is enough roof space available after all the solar panels has been installed also consider an evacuated tube solar geyser and use that in line with the current geyser.

Good evening @LCBXX and welcome to the forum
I would opt for 2 or 3 x Kodak Max 7.2kW units in parallel unless you want to feed power back into the grid then it is either the 2 of 8kW or 1 of 16kW Deye or Sunsynk.
 
The cheaper inverters (e.g. Sun/Fivestar/Ecco/etc) are similar to the Axpert type inverters which cannot feed power back into the grid where the Deye and Sunsynk can feed power back into the grid or use solar power to power non essential loads depending where the current transformer is placed. 
 
If you opt for the cheaper inverters which cannot feed power back into the grid and you want the pool pump and heat pump to run off the solar then I would use timers and contactors to switch those loads, with the Deye and Sunsynk there are timers which can be set when the unit is allowed to power non essential loads.
 
The inverter chosen will determine which wattage and how many solar panels can be used with the said inverter e.g. the Kodak Max 7.2kW inverter has two solar power inputs each input is 4kW and a maximum open circuit voltage of 500V so 8 x 500W solar panes are on the power limit, I know that there is a bit of a grace but I would not push that limit power wise, voltage wise or current wise, also remember that there must be enough roof space to accommodate more solar panels.
I had a quick look at The Power Forum Store website and the Kodak Max 7.2kW inverter is currently just under R10k and 7 of JA Solar 505W would be just over R10k, the solar panels that are already installed can also be used with the Kodak Max 7.2kW inverter without any re- configuring because the current inverter has a high voltage solar power input where some of the other cheaper brands would be low voltage then there would to be a solar combiner box installed and the solar panels be reconfigured which add additional cost.
If I were you I would stick to known good brands like Kodak or Axpert some of these other inverter brands (e.g. Sun/Fivestar/Ecco/etc) are not bad but what happens if something goes wrong or you want to buy another one to be used in parallel at a later stage and the firmware version is different, where do you go for support.
 
If there is enough roof space available after all the solar panels has been installed also consider an evacuated tube solar geyser and use that in line with the current geyser.

I have gone through much the same journey: 3 phase rural ESKOM feed to single phase off grid.  About the same usage as yours - your sizing sounds about right.
2 points to consider:
1. Invest in newer, energy efficient appliances. (fridge/freezers and especially inverter aircons of you use them - I replaced my 5 most-used a/cs with inverter units and it made a huge difference).  There is a lot of energy to be saved in the typical house.  (You may already have done this.)
2. Try to get a conversion to pre-paid (so-called LandLight 60A) supply.  In my case ESKOM simply left my old 3-phase transformer on the pole and now uses only one phase from it, so the conversion was cheap (but VERY slow...). The rates are comparable to the fuel costs of a diesel generator, but without the capital and maintenance and noise and hassle.  I had bought a generator before I knew about this option, but have only used it once in 5 years...
Good luck.

Single or 3-phase is a tricky one.
What equipment and appliances are you running? There's some things that are better 3-phase like motors/pumps/compressors, the single phase versions have much higher and prolonged start currents which can cause inverters to trip. Inverter air conditioning is a good way to reduce start currents.
I'd suggest a full load audit where you list every single electrical appliance along with its kwh consumption, start/run currents etc. Then as Calvin suggests look at the low hanging fruit such as air con, hot water geysers, cooking stoves, halogen lighting, fridges/freezers sitting in a hot outhouse etc and see which appliances are worth replacing with gas for example or maybe even worth buying a newer version that's more efficient. Then plan your solar requirements after that.

@Greglsh The Courier Guy has an online quote feature that is quite handy for an estimate, just make sure that the batteries are properly packed because some of the drivers are quite rough with the boxes.

Good evening Chris
The short answer is no there is no tool that can be used to test and or verify if an inverter is working correctly.
I recently had the opportunity to visit the Segen Solar workshop / repair center and there they test the units by powering the unit up and see what the unit does and then once they know what the unit does and does not do then they decide which action to take, all they do is replace boards until the unit work.
They use Pylontech batteries and if a unit trips a battery they know that the mainboard of the inverter is faulty and then it is replaced and tested further, to test the MPPT they use a high voltage DC power supply and for a load they have a dummy load consisting out of resistors and fans which cools the resistors down. They also connect the unit up to a utility supply and make sure that the unit charges the battery.
I know that BritishRacingGreen received a couple of Kodak inverters which was damaged by the floods in KZN which Segen Solar did not want to repair because of the water damage but other than that I am not aware of any other units that they did not repair under warranty.
Kind Regards
GerhardK83

Good evening Chris
The short answer is no there is no tool that can be used to test and or verify if an inverter is working correctly.
I recently had the opportunity to visit the Segen Solar workshop / repair center and there they test the units by powering the unit up and see what the unit does and then once they know what the unit does and does not do then they decide which action to take, all they do is replace boards until the unit work.
They use Pylontech batteries and if a unit trips a battery they know that the mainboard of the inverter is faulty and then it is replaced and tested further, to test the MPPT they use a high voltage DC power supply and for a load they have a dummy load consisting out of resistors and fans which cools the resistors down. They also connect the unit up to a utility supply and make sure that the unit charges the battery.
I know that BritishRacingGreen received a couple of Kodak inverters which was damaged by the floods in KZN which Segen Solar did not want to repair because of the water damage but other than that I am not aware of any other units that they did not repair under warranty.
Kind Regards
GerhardK83

Good evening @Riyaad and welcome to the forum.
 
Correct me if I am wrong but what I understand from your post is that there is 1 supply connection to the Municipal power supply, 1 prepaid meter in the main residence and the other 2 residences power comes from the main residence.
The quickest option would be to divide the power up before the prepaid meter in the main residence and install prepaid meters in the other 2 residences - if there is no prepaid meters installed in those residences.
Since the end goal is to install a solar system in each of the residences it would also be wise to install an isolator and a miniature circuit breaker at the point of origin so that the power to the other 2 residences can be isolated for maintenance work.
 
So far I know @TaliaB is in the Cape Town area and maybe he can assist.
 
Kind Regards
 
GerhardK83
PS post a couple of photos of the DB's and prepaid meter or meters in the residences then better advise would be able to be given.

I googled Kodak OG7.2 SCR board and found that LEROY MERLIN, Shumata, Proximate Solar, ledtechnologysa.co.za and 30n.co.za lists these boards on their website as spares so it should be available to purchase.

I googled Kodak OG7.2 SCR board and found that LEROY MERLIN, Shumata, Proximate Solar, ledtechnologysa.co.za and 30n.co.za lists these boards on their website as spares so it should be available to purchase.

If I were you I would keep the Greenrich batteries - new those batteries are about R30k each, set the 5 Kw inverter up to use voltage settings, the inverter will most probably have a user defined setting for voltage use that and make sure that the equalization is turned off, if you do not want to use the 5 kW inverter with the Greenrich batteries, buy batteries for the 3 kW inverter unless the 3 kW inverter can use the 48V as provided by the batteries and save for a inverter which can communicate with the Greenrich batteries.
The newer Axpert type inverters (MKS 2, VM 3, VM 4, King I & II, Max I & II) can communicate with the Greenrich batteries and if no parallel inverter ability is needed then the price for the VM 3 and VM 4 are really good, I had a quick look at the prices on the Powerforum store on the Kodak products and the prices including vat are R 7,659.93 for the 5 kW Kodak VM 3, R 10,644.01 for the 5 kW Kodak MKS 2, R 8,549.35 for the 5 kW Kodak King and R 14,612.12 for the 7.2 kW Kodak Max. The Kodak MKS 2, 5 kW King and 7.2 kW Max can be paralleled so that leaves the VM 3 as the cheapest option. With the 5 kW inverters you also save on battery cable because the cable does not need to be as thick as the cable for the 7.2 kW or more powerful inverters.

If I were you I would keep the Greenrich batteries - new those batteries are about R30k each, set the 5 Kw inverter up to use voltage settings, the inverter will most probably have a user defined setting for voltage use that and make sure that the equalization is turned off, if you do not want to use the 5 kW inverter with the Greenrich batteries, buy batteries for the 3 kW inverter unless the 3 kW inverter can use the 48V as provided by the batteries and save for a inverter which can communicate with the Greenrich batteries.
The newer Axpert type inverters (MKS 2, VM 3, VM 4, King I & II, Max I & II) can communicate with the Greenrich batteries and if no parallel inverter ability is needed then the price for the VM 3 and VM 4 are really good, I had a quick look at the prices on the Powerforum store on the Kodak products and the prices including vat are R 7,659.93 for the 5 kW Kodak VM 3, R 10,644.01 for the 5 kW Kodak MKS 2, R 8,549.35 for the 5 kW Kodak King and R 14,612.12 for the 7.2 kW Kodak Max. The Kodak MKS 2, 5 kW King and 7.2 kW Max can be paralleled so that leaves the VM 3 as the cheapest option. With the 5 kW inverters you also save on battery cable because the cable does not need to be as thick as the cable for the 7.2 kW or more powerful inverters.

Hallo @Kaas and welcome to the forum.
First of all I would have a look at the Eskom account and determine what tariff they use to bill you and see if there is a lower tariff then I would start to plan around the lower tariff.
I found these document links on Eskom's site for the rates and tariffs, there are a lot of different tariffs so have a careful look at the documents:
https://www.eskom.co.za/distribution/tariffs-and-charges/
https://www.eskom.co.za/distribution/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Schedule-of-standard-prices-2023_24-140323.pdf
https://www.eskom.co.za/distribution/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/2023_24-Schedule-of-Standard-Fees_V1__-01-April-2023.pdf
https://www.eskom.co.za/distribution/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/9454J-Eskom-Tariff-booklet-Interactive-final.pdf
https://www.eskom.co.za/distribution/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/2023_24-Tariff-Book_01042023.pdf
 
The cheapest 3 phase Hybrid inverter that I could find from a reputable seller is this one: https://solarwarehousesa.com/products/chisage-ess-12kw-three-phase-hybrid-inverter?_pos=2&_sid=7a8268493&_ss=r if you decide that you want to keep the 3 phase connection.
Here is the link to the manual for the inverter: https://chisagess.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/【User-Manual】Mars-10-14G1-LE_V4.2_EN.pdf