branderplank

Looking good
Not sure if anyone knows this but these batteries have a QR code on the side which actually takes you to the install manual.
Never knew this and could never ever find a link to this via google (maybe I just didn't know what to google).

My 5kw went from 9.9amps to 11 amp per mppt after software update. There was some discussion about this somewhere on the forum. 
 
the amps is not really the issue as the inverter would just clip it if it went over (of course within reason). Usually you have to look at the Isc of the panel. On rainy \ cloudy days when the panels are cold and sun comes out you could even exceed the panel rating for short periods. 
 

My 5kw went from 9.9amps to 11 amp per mppt after software update. There was some discussion about this somewhere on the forum. 
 
the amps is not really the issue as the inverter would just clip it if it went over (of course within reason). Usually you have to look at the Isc of the panel. On rainy \ cloudy days when the panels are cold and sun comes out you could even exceed the panel rating for short periods. 
 

Seems like there was a bit of discussion on the wiring of DC CB's in the past:
 

Running this way for the last 14 months, the SOH is sitting at 98% ( as shown on the bms )

Hi JP
I think anyone with a Sunsynk experiences this. However, you could try increase the minimum usage from the grid to say 50 watts - not sure of your current value?
Unfortunately, if a big load is switched off and the battery is already full, it cannot react fast enough. But as you say the export should be very little.
I don't believe the firmware will do anything in this regard.
Thanks

Your system will work but if everything is connected on the UPS side of the inverter your battery will not be able to handle the loads which may be running when an unplanned outage hits you.
The part that is not clear to me is: "Whole house connected ..."
By virtue of the CT coils being placed at the correct position, the inverter will send solar power to your whole house thereby giving you a saving irrespective of having it connected to the Grid or Load side. So you will get the benefit of the sun.
But if the power goes out (unexpectedly), and you have all of these loads on the UPS side, I suspect that it would trip since the battery will just not be able to manage it (especially at night/cloudy conditions).
So maybe what you could do is leave two phases on the non-ups side (the ones with the geysers, oven etc) and have the lights phase on the UPS side.
This way you will make sure that the battery will only carry light loads during an outage. You can then later on move more loads over to the ups side as you expand your batteries.
Not sure if this makes sense to you. Maybe someone else has better idea or experience with this.
 

 

I bought mine from the powerforum store: https://powerforum-store.co.za/collections/accessories/products/rs232-to-usb-converter-cable-kit-for-pylontech

Hi Guys
Did some testing the weekend. So as I mentioned, I could not get this working previously. My approach, replace Municipal supply on Grid side with power from Genny (i.e. I don't use the AUX port). I have 7.5 Kva petrol GenTech genny.
So as experienced by @Sc00bs, you have to connect the earth of the genny to the earth of the house.
At first the Sunsynk could not see the Hz of the genny - which was around 53~44 without any load (based on a small digital screen from the genny).
So first I had to increase the upper range in the Grid settings to accept this (on the inverter).
As a side note:
My CT clamp was on the main incoming line, but my genny changeover switch is after this point, so I had to find a different spot for the CT clamp to allow the inverter to see the watts coming from the genny (i.e. I had to move it further up on the main incoming line) My DB is split between Essentials and non essential with the more power hungry items (such as geyser, pool pump etc) on the N/E side So after upping the Hz range, the relay clicked over after circa 60 seconds and the Sunsynk managed to synchronize with the genny. There was an immediate change in tone on the genny as if it was working harder (although I had ample solar power for UPS side and had switched off on the DB the pool pump and geyser)
Some interesting observations:
I was generating some good solar so that went to the battery and the UPS at the time the more loads I added on the N/E side, the more the genny increased its power With more and more loads on the N/E side, the Hz dropped to 51.5 as some point The inverter kept on supplying only the batteries and the UPS side (essentials) At some point I was drawing close to 4kw from the inverter and at this point, some of the LED long tube lights started some flickering Before all of this, my expectation was however that the genny would idle along nicely since the inverter would now blend back to the N/E side since there was ample solar available and I did not have my system screen set to charge the batteries from the "grid" (i.e. I never instructed the inverter to try and charge from the batteries).
I mean this is what you get when you grid-tie with the Eskom grid, but contrary to this, the genny kept on working harder and no solar was diverted to the N/E
(I got fed up with the noisy generator and switch everything off and back to normal again).
So unfortunately, I did not try and charge the batteries from the genny but sure that it would be able barring in mind that you would have to limit the grid power as per the above video as it would probably start charging the at the prescribed BMS rate (in my case 111 Amps DC).
So the only conclusion from this is that for some reason, the Sunsynk cannot throttle the supply from the generator but I don't know what the technical reason for this could be and hence you got to be careful what you switch on when using the genny as the Solar power will not supplement the genny to extent that there is excess available and not charging the battery. (or the Sunsynk just doesn't like the genny waveform and don't want to blend with it - see flickering lights mentioned above)
I have some pics of the system flow chart if anyone wants to see these.
Hopefully this will be of use to someone.
 
 
 
 

Glad to hear there is some change
Did you adjust your settings to not immediately start charging the batteries from the genny?
An alternative could be to drop some of the loads on the DB and progressively switch them on?
Lastly, is this during a time period where you have little to no solar power available?
 
 

Thanks @YellowTapemeasure
Seems he did not report back on the matter.
However, that same grid screen says grid reconnect time = 60 seconds and power factor of 1.0
Could it be that the power factor of the genny is less than 1.0?
It does seems strange that in that thread that it sees the AC volts but 0 for frequency?
(this article seems to suggest that single phase gennies below 40 kw run at a PF of 1 - https://www.generatorsource.com/Industrial_Generator_Phases_and_Voltage.aspx )
 
 
 
 

I have a funny case, my one string seems to always measure 0.4 amps irrespective of it being night with no sunlight. This is on the 5kw sunsynk MPPT 1.
This of course means that PV 1 is always showing higher amps than PV2
Anyone else experience something like this:
What could be the reason?

The values in the above pictures adds up and makes sense.
For example, house 1886w + 945w on UPS = 2831w
The 2831w is supplied by inverter: 2406 watts + 425 from grid = 2831 watts

Why not turn your panels off while testing and set the batteries not to be used.
This way, any load from the UPS should equal the power from the Grid (measured by the CT)
On face value, the values don't add up

I suppose you could look at your PV generated graph to see where there are gaps (i.e. when you use less/little, the PV generation will drop). 
If there are large gaps, like mine below, you could add another battery.
But be mindful that on cloudy days it will take longer to fully charge the batteries:
Blue = Production
Red = Consumption

There is a training manual that could maybe shed some further light. Not sure what you are struggling with specifically
 
 
 

1. Mine is wired to get power from Mains before RCD and from a "clean neutral".
2. Most guys just use a single NO/NC relay (240v coil). The coil will be connected to the live and neutral outputs of ATS240 pins on the inverter. Once you open the inverter you will clearly see these markings. The neutral (from the inverter output) or earth can be linked to the COM pole (common) and the remaining wire (neutral or earth - depends on which was connected to COM) can be connected on the NO pole. Nothing should be connected on the NC pole.
 

The nice about the CT clamp just after the meter (so to speak) is that you start getting stats on your entire household use from the inverter. You see the peaks and the base level of use.
From my perspective it was good to see this