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branderplank

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Everything posted by branderplank

  1. Thanks Leshen Is the attached pic from a thread here on the powerforum? Would like to read more about it If joining the three batteries (+ to + and - to -), would also take the + from the top battery and the negative from bottom battery when connecting the the isolater/inverter? Re this: You need to purchase a CAT5E cable to link the batteries together for comms on the RS485 port. Do you need to make up a special cable? Or would the standard 1m ethernet cable setup work? (the ones get when buying a router etc) Thanks
  2. Hi Guys Need some inputs/advice on the specs for a system I am helping someone with. Basically the plan is as follows: 1 x 8kw Sunsynk 32 x 345 watt JA Solar mono perc half cells (these are 9.86 Amp panels so should not clip on the Sunsynk and sizing of 1689mm length is major factor) The install is planned as an east to west so we will have 16x on the east side and 16x on the west side. On the battery side I considered the Pylons (this is what I have but on a 5kw) however given the large loads that will potentially be drawn I think something like the BSL Bull or H
  3. I suppose you could look at your PV generated graph to see where there are gaps (i.e. when you use less/little, the PV generation will drop). If there are large gaps, like mine below, you could add another battery. But be mindful that on cloudy days it will take longer to fully charge the batteries: Blue = Production Red = Consumption
  4. Hi Hannes I have 380 watt JA Solar Mono PERC half cell x 14 ( 2x 7) so total of 5320 facing North. Not sure about the tilt though although my roof profile is quite low - so probably in the region of 20 to 25 degrees. Typically I get 4.3kw here and sometimes it jumps up to 4.5kw or 4.6kw I am JHB so trying to get a sense if 80% of rated PV array capacity is good indication (or not) Thanks
  5. Thanks Hannes So if you are hitting 5.8kw that is about 80% of the PV total power (16 * 455w = 7.28kw)
  6. Hi Hannes Thanks for the feedback Would be interesting to see a chart with volts and amps where you reach these peaks of 5800 watt
  7. Also had this when I initially commissioned mine. With the cover plate on it was less annoying. At some point I had switched off the inverter completely and disconnected the batteries. When I turned on everything again, the pitch was really bad. After a few days I decided to just switch it off with the power button underneath the inverter - did not switch off anything. When I switched it back on, the pitch was virtually gone (it is there but really really faint only audible when I get your ears in really close). Not a technical solution but just what I experienced.
  8. Does the graph only represent the use of your geyser and no other circuits? At what point are you measuring the use? What did you use to measure this and get this information? Agree that the rand values do not look right
  9. Can you mix for example JA Solar with a Canadian Solar? probably not Also can't mix a poly with a mono? Found a 405watt canadian solar
  10. Thanks Tariq and Vassen for the feedback It makes sense that BMS would limit the current draw and inform the inverter of this Saw in another thread something about the Pylon warranty that will be void if charge currents are overstepped and it got me wondering how you could manage this within the Sunsynk settings. To summarise then: 1) even if you only have two batteries, and 2) you are powering essential and non-essential loads at night, 3) the BMS will tell the inverter of the max capability/draw, 4) the inverter balance the rest of the requirement against
  11. Hi Guys Looking through these pics again and the manual, I just need to clarify the approach on: 1) Number of batteries; 2) Max consistent current draw 3) Setting on Sunsynk system screen I know the max sell power should be set to your PV array size power however I see in most pics that the POWER COLUMN remains at either 5000 or 8000 depending on whether the person has 5.5kw or 8.8kw model. Has anyone limited the power in the power column to say 3500 watt? For example if you have two Pylon 3000C batteries with max consistent current draw of 74A
  12. There is a training manual that could maybe shed some further light. Not sure what you are struggling with specifically
  13. Just a wild guess here from what i have read it sounds like a floating neutral. Have you tested the voltage between earth and neutral?
  14. Which meter is? (type) Can't you set it to minimise the export power?
  15. Nice Now you just need a battery cabinet for those pylon's. Is that small DB for your solar protection breakers/surge arrestors/fuses?
  16. 1. Mine is wired to get power from Mains before RCD and from a "clean neutral". 2. Most guys just use a single NO/NC relay (240v coil). The coil will be connected to the live and neutral outputs of ATS240 pins on the inverter. Once you open the inverter you will clearly see these markings. The neutral (from the inverter output) or earth can be linked to the COM pole (common) and the remaining wire (neutral or earth - depends on which was connected to COM) can be connected on the NO pole. Nothing should be connected on the NC pole.
  17. Hi Guys Many different topics discussed on this thread and very interesting. The manual however does not state the rating of the relay required but just that the ATS pins should be connected to the relay. So why would you need a 40Amp relay if there is going to be no (or minimal) current flowing through the relay - i.e. you don't expect to have 40 amps flowing between N and E? If I understand the function of the neutral - earth bond correctly, this bond is required in order to give the RCD/EL breaker the ability to detect if there is a fault and accordingly, any such variance de
  18. The nice about the CT clamp just after the meter (so to speak) is that you start getting stats on your entire household use from the inverter. You see the peaks and the base level of use. From my perspective it was good to see this
  19. Some interesting discussion here It seems the writing is on the wall i will have to change my installation Did not know about the metal trunking - if you look at the gallery of the power forum store it all looks like plastic trunking and in some instances ac and dc in the same conduit? Question, does SANS 10142-1:2017 Edition 2 prescribe the minimum or is it a "good practice" guide. Who regulates the wiring code? Is it not an NRS function? I.e. NRS 097-2-1:2010 Edition 1 (Not my pictures - just copied from the website)
  20. Hi Guys Looked around a bit on the forum but did not see a specific section on this (sorry if I missed it). From a CoC perspective, I was told that AC and DC wires are not allowed to run next to one another in the same conduit (trunking). Is this correct? If you look at the layout of the ports of most inverters you are bond to have AC and DC lines crossing one another depending on layout restrictions. What is the correct approach here? Thanks
  21. The funny thing is that the plug circuit on which my keypad is connected, is the non-essential circuit which does not run through the inverter. Will play around with this one a bit more. Read somewhere on another thread about inverters "injecting" some king of frequency that could interfere with communication of the keypad.
  22. Managed to figure out the problem on the CT clamp Really simple. I have three phases coming in but only use one. Seems that the colour coding inside did not match up with the colours coming in. First tested it on neutral and got a reading, then tested other phases. CT clamp now reading perfectly
  23. To add to this, it seems my Empire Hexing keypad won't connect to my smart meter unless I fully turn off the inverter. The moment the inverter is running, even just in UPS mode, I get a COMMs failure message when entering any type of code. (Also have an alarm light flashing on my meter outside - not sure if this is related though) Anyone else experience this?
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