Mier

Just some feedback. We logged a return with the supplier. RCT replaced the motherboard under warranty. Back to normal operation again. 

Thanks.
There's a surge protector in the existing Non-Essential DB on the far right. I supposed I could easily add one to the Essential DB between the Main and Earth leakage, or should I rather add it in the Switch-over DB between the Inverter Breaker and the Change-over switch ?
Yes, trunking will be separate. I just couldn't install it yet because I only received delivery of the battery today and therefore couldn't measure the trunking length.
The DC Trunking will be below the AC trunking (the battery connectors are on the bottom right of the inverter.
On this point, is it allowed to cross the AC trunking? I was think of a closed trunking link:

Or maybe doing the same with sprague links for the DC running through the AC Trunking.
Surely this would be acceptable as it remains separate trunking with just a slight 'narrowing' of the AC trunking at that point.
 

This project is finally finished. I had an inspection done and received the CoC today. Apart from two additional warning labels, there was not a single compliance issue found with my installation, which I'm quite chuffed about. 
 
As a side note, I resolved the nuisance tripping of the essential db EL by swapping the crappy ACDC branded EL with a Schneider EL. 
 
I hope to add solar panels in future, but being in Cape Town, I will probably have to swap the inverter too as InfiniSolar is no longer on the approved list (it was in 2019).
 
Edit: typo

Thanks. Looks it hasn't changed recently from what I have. 
(My AM2 uses the file that ends with 2.50,  but your file (4.50) was part of the package I got.)

P1447V300 - 12290-4.50  This was one of 3 bin files and was the only one that worked

@PowerUser In your opening post you ask battery (singular) to inverter, but then later posts pictures with batteries is parallel. Surely you can see have that could've led to people misunderstanding your question.
In the scenario of a single battery and inverter, the positive and negative cables can be of different lengths. The longer the length of the cable (Pos and Neg cables summed), the higher the resistance and the higher the voltage drop will fall over the cable (it doesn't matter whether this is on the Pos or Neg cable). As the Pos cable, battery and Neg cable form a closed, serial circuit the current will flow through all the components, equally.
Voltage (V) = Current (I) x Resistance (R)
 

 
If you are using 35sqr welding cable, the voltage drop over the cable will be ~0.8 milli-Volt per Amp per metre.
Example 1 - Equal cable:
Voltage drop over Pos will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 2 = 80mV = 0.08V
Voltage drop over Neg will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 2 = 80mV = 0.08V
Therefore, the Battery will "see" 50V - 0.08 - 0.08 = 49.84V
 
Example 2 - Unequal cable:
Voltage drop over Pos will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 1 = 40mV = 0.04V
Voltage drop over Neg will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 3 = 120mV = 0.12V
Therefore, the Battery will "see" 50V - 0.04 - 0.12 = 49.84V
 
So, both scenarios are the same (electrically) from battery and inverter point of view.
 
Side note:
However, the both cables should be kept as short as possible to reduce lost energy which is dissipated as heat by the cables. The power (W) lost can be calculated as P = V x I.
The higher the loss over the cable, the higher the temperature due to heat dissipation. The thinner the cable, the higher the voltage drop over the cable = more loss = higher heat, which in a worst case can lead to burning if underspec'd.
 
 
 
 

This project is finally finished. I had an inspection done and received the CoC today. Apart from two additional warning labels, there was not a single compliance issue found with my installation, which I'm quite chuffed about. 
 
As a side note, I resolved the nuisance tripping of the essential db EL by swapping the crappy ACDC branded EL with a Schneider EL. 
 
I hope to add solar panels in future, but being in Cape Town, I will probably have to swap the inverter too as InfiniSolar is no longer on the approved list (it was in 2019).
 
Edit: typo

Expires 20 Dec-  We transfer

USB. I got a cable in the box.
 
(Even the first digits of the serial numbers are similar  )

That looks like an Infinisolar clone. Appears to be similar to what I have (just different brand/colour).
I've been running it since April 2021 with a Hubble AM-2. You will need the software called SolarPower to configure the inverter initially, but thereafter I would recommend SolarAssistant because it acts as a sort of bridge between Inverter and battery.


 

Good News,

Solar-Assistant Software version 2022-08-25 has fixed the incorrect temperature reporting issue on Hubble AM-2 - connected via RS232/console port:


https://solar-assistant.io/help/updates/changelog

2022-08-25Beta
New features:
Add WiFi country code selection to network configuration. Upgrade of underlying frameworks and libraries. Basic support for EASUN SMG II and PowMr inverters that use with RS232 WiFi dongle and SmartESS app. Select inverter type "Sumry". Support for most important setting of Must and SRNE inverters. Support for adjusting more Deye and Voltronic settings via MQTT. Corrections:
Correct temperature reading of USB serial protocol.

FYI:
Just did more testing wrt to temperature.
Seems Solar-Assistant temperature reading via the AM2 RS232/Console port may be incorrect.
RIOT, SynSynk LiBMS, Juntek temperature probe, Modbus all show ~21.5/~24.5C, but SA shows ~29.5C
modbus register(  31)=22.1
modbus register(  32)=21.8
modbus register(  33)=21.6
modbus register(  34)=21.7
modbus register(  35)=24.9
modbus register(  36)=24.5




Odd system out is Solar-Assistant via RS232/Console:
I've asked SA support to check why there is a discrepancy.

Thank you. Cable ordered delivered and plugged in!

I'm running SA with AM-2.
Got a USB<>Serial cable from SA

I have an Infinisolar 3k+ clone, so no comms between inverter and battery. 
Solar Assistant connected to both for monitoring. 

Update - good news.

I returned the batteries to Hubble service center and they fixed them.
The batteries are back and working again.
So far all looks good with the capacity restored to 100Ah each.
Grateful to have local support.

Wondering what the percentage failure rate vs units sold are on the AM 2 Hubble's? I bought 2 x AM2's last year. One failed very early on (less than 50 partial cycles) and it was only apparent when DOD was reaching 40% or below. As soon as 40 odd % was reached the one pack would just plummet to close to 0 bringing the SOC down as well as state of health. 
The RIOT device used to report on SOH per pack - but I see they have taken it away from the dashboard, almost like they do not want the end user to have the detail. Maybe they just need to enable it who knows?
Either way I now sit with 2 x AM2's basically brand new with little confidence of the future and the longevity of the product. Unsure of future failures.
Scary thing is I was trying to save on the life of the battery and keep it above 50% DOD, problems started surfacing when I wanted to discharge to 35% once daily. After various tests remotely over a period of time Hubble did replace the pack.
Having said that, If the clock was turned back I would invest in another product. No negativity implied. All for supporting local! 

My battery:
Capacity was: 100Ah, Capacity now: 53.7Ah, Cycles: 69

 
I have an open ticket with Hubble

My battery:
Capacity was: 100Ah, Capacity now: 53.7Ah, Cycles: 69

 
I have an open ticket with Hubble

Not a problem. I will ask Hubble to see this thread asap. Doing that now.
Sincerely
Jay

Thank you @Energy-Jason for bringing this thread to our attention.
To answer some of the queries on the AM-2s capacity; the AM-2 battery is a  51V, 5.5Kw and usable 100Ah with 5 of those Kw being usable, as described in the spec sheet. We reserve 10%, so we don't charge the cells to full capacity to remove the risk of dendrite formations. Dendrite formation happens when consistently charging to 100% and greatly reduces your battery life. It is not viable to get the last 10% of the battery capacity then the battery life span will be reduced by ~50-70%. That 0.5 unusable will not take away from the 100Ah capacity. The cell capacity we use well exceeds 100Ah. Battery management systems have been installed in all our batteries to ensure we do not exceed the voltage set as inverters are designed to pull maximum capacity always.

Clients that are having any issues with State of Health are encouraged to contact us, either via our support channel or telephonically, so that our technical department can assist in an evaluation of your product. If there is a fault with the battery we are more than happy to swap it out or repair at either our Cape Town, Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth or Durban repair facilities.
Unfortunately we cannot go into a greater depth of response on this platform, as we need to monitor and track technical support conversations in order for us to provide comprehensive support to our clients. 
For all technical support queries please email the Support Department via [email protected] 
Please ensure that the following details are included in your email:
1. Inverter make & model
2. Model & number of connected batteries
3. Are your batteries in Series or Parallel?
4. A brief description of your system issues
5. If possible; images of your power system
 
- Hubble Technical Department

Hi @system32
 
Thanks for this post and please keep us updated. I believe I have the same issue with my Hubble AM-2. I only have one pack installed, but this is what's being reported by the BMS:

 
As you can see the CAPACITY has dropped from 100AH previously to only 53.7AH, which means a massive ~47% drop after only 68 cycles.
I opened a ticket with Hubble in December (twice actually). The first time they responded that the inverter is not charging the battery properly (BS) and the second time they closed it without any response (I will pursue this further with them, but I was on vacation).
My theory is that one of the cells are stuffed.
Even at 100% SOC, there is a substantial difference between the highest and lowest cell voltage, which grows to 200mV as it discharges.
I don't have the actual graphs anymore, but it "failed" something like this:
1) Reported SOC 100%, reported Capacity 100AH
2) Battery discharged to ~47% SOC and then went into alarm state and disconnected from inverter.
3) After restarting both battery and inverter, the battery started recharging from 0% SOC ! This is strange as it was at 47% when it alarmed.
4) It charged find until 53% SOC (which kinda makes sense because it was supposed charge 47% to 100%, not 0% to 53%, right)
5) After a short while, the BMS automatically altered the reported SOC to 100% and capacity to 53.7AH !!

 
My hunch is that as it discharges the lowest cell reaches a cut-off low voltage while the other cells are still fine. In order to, in future, not hit this cut-off on the lowest cell, the BMS has now adjusted the capacity to 53.7AH, so now it is reporting 0% SOC when it's actually still 47%.
 
 

(Also posted on MyBroadband, but discussion is a bit slow)
I'm about to start down the rabbit hole...

My initial setup will be to beat loadshedding, but with the aim to include solar generation in the future.

I already have an inverter which I bought last year on an impulse. It's a Soltra GTB3000 3KW Plus, which appears to be an Infinity Solar 3K+ rebrand/clone. Not much information available for this unit, but it seemed decent for the R6k I paid for it, so will see.
With some searching I managed to find the user manual and software. It's still boxed, but I did test it briefly plugged into a wall outlet and was able to connect using the SolarPower software and the supplied USB cable.

I also ordered a Hubble AM-2 battery.

The plan is to install a new DB for essential load and move all lights and plug circuits over to it, except for: Aircon, Geyser, Washing Machines, Tumble Dryer, Dish Washer, Microwave, Ovens and Swimming Pool DB.
All the lights in my house are already LED.

I want to do most of the install myself and then have it checked and CoC'd by an electrician.
I had two electricians over to quote, but they didn't inspire much confidence and were rather expensive, I thought.

I do have a few questions and will also appreciate some comments, hence this thread.

This is what I plan to build (may not be perfectly to scale):

@PowerUser In your opening post you ask battery (singular) to inverter, but then later posts pictures with batteries is parallel. Surely you can see have that could've led to people misunderstanding your question.
In the scenario of a single battery and inverter, the positive and negative cables can be of different lengths. The longer the length of the cable (Pos and Neg cables summed), the higher the resistance and the higher the voltage drop will fall over the cable (it doesn't matter whether this is on the Pos or Neg cable). As the Pos cable, battery and Neg cable form a closed, serial circuit the current will flow through all the components, equally.
Voltage (V) = Current (I) x Resistance (R)
 

 
If you are using 35sqr welding cable, the voltage drop over the cable will be ~0.8 milli-Volt per Amp per metre.
Example 1 - Equal cable:
Voltage drop over Pos will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 2 = 80mV = 0.08V
Voltage drop over Neg will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 2 = 80mV = 0.08V
Therefore, the Battery will "see" 50V - 0.08 - 0.08 = 49.84V
 
Example 2 - Unequal cable:
Voltage drop over Pos will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 1 = 40mV = 0.04V
Voltage drop over Neg will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 3 = 120mV = 0.12V
Therefore, the Battery will "see" 50V - 0.04 - 0.12 = 49.84V
 
So, both scenarios are the same (electrically) from battery and inverter point of view.
 
Side note:
However, the both cables should be kept as short as possible to reduce lost energy which is dissipated as heat by the cables. The power (W) lost can be calculated as P = V x I.
The higher the loss over the cable, the higher the temperature due to heat dissipation. The thinner the cable, the higher the voltage drop over the cable = more loss = higher heat, which in a worst case can lead to burning if underspec'd.
 
 
 
 

@PowerUser In your opening post you ask battery (singular) to inverter, but then later posts pictures with batteries is parallel. Surely you can see have that could've led to people misunderstanding your question.
In the scenario of a single battery and inverter, the positive and negative cables can be of different lengths. The longer the length of the cable (Pos and Neg cables summed), the higher the resistance and the higher the voltage drop will fall over the cable (it doesn't matter whether this is on the Pos or Neg cable). As the Pos cable, battery and Neg cable form a closed, serial circuit the current will flow through all the components, equally.
Voltage (V) = Current (I) x Resistance (R)
 

 
If you are using 35sqr welding cable, the voltage drop over the cable will be ~0.8 milli-Volt per Amp per metre.
Example 1 - Equal cable:
Voltage drop over Pos will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 2 = 80mV = 0.08V
Voltage drop over Neg will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 2 = 80mV = 0.08V
Therefore, the Battery will "see" 50V - 0.08 - 0.08 = 49.84V
 
Example 2 - Unequal cable:
Voltage drop over Pos will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 1 = 40mV = 0.04V
Voltage drop over Neg will be = 0.8mV x 50 x 3 = 120mV = 0.12V
Therefore, the Battery will "see" 50V - 0.04 - 0.12 = 49.84V
 
So, both scenarios are the same (electrically) from battery and inverter point of view.
 
Side note:
However, the both cables should be kept as short as possible to reduce lost energy which is dissipated as heat by the cables. The power (W) lost can be calculated as P = V x I.
The higher the loss over the cable, the higher the temperature due to heat dissipation. The thinner the cable, the higher the voltage drop over the cable = more loss = higher heat, which in a worst case can lead to burning if underspec'd.