23 minutes ago, Treschen said:

100 percent correct sir the lower the voltage the more current the devices will pull. I would suggest in this case one could use a AVS30 before the supply to luxpower on the grid side. We have used a few AVS30s for these cases and it works well.

 

We have had instances where customers grid supply is constantly low, we had to install CVTs to protect the inverter as AVS30 was constantly holding back from supply grid back to inverter. 

Agree 100%, I have an AVS30 fitted and saves me from that scenario

25 minutes ago, P1000 said:

This is only true if the power supply is a switch mode. Since it is stated that this affects devices with (lf) transformers, it's much more likely that they have linear PSUs which makes your theory fall on it's face...

So what is your theory on why this happens?

1 minute ago, HenkFR said:

Agree 100%, I have an AVS30 fitted and saves me from that scenario

Good one, can highly recommend it.

Excuse my ignorance - i am not an expert in this field. My problem seems to be the other way around. The fuses that are related to the power supply on the av receiver blows when the changeover goes from the grid to the battery. I have not noticed an issue when it is on grid power.  We cant put a higher fuse as that is the maximum allowed by the manufacturer to retain the warranties - i would assume that is a protection to stop major damage. I just wonder whether logically it would make sense to bypass this protection with higher fuses without remedying / figuring out what is the actual issue with this invertor. 

I have a Clearline Power + Surge Tripconnect that is connected  from the AV receiver to the plugpoint.  This does not seem to resolve the issue.  I think that is because that is rated at 10amps. There might be a bit too high for the 3.15a fuse in the receiver. 

2 minutes ago, User12345 said:

Excuse my ignorance - i am not an expert in this field. My problem seems to be the other way around. The fuses that are related to the power supply on the av receiver blows when the changeover goes from the grid to the battery. I have not noticed an issue when it is on grid power.  We cant put a higher fuse as that is the maximum allowed by the manufacturer to retain the warranties - i would assume that is a protection to stop major damage. I just wonder whether logically it would make sense to bypass this protection with higher fuses without remedying / figuring out what is the actual issue with this invertor. 

I have a Clearline Power + Surge Tripconnect that is connected  from the AV receiver to the plugpoint.  This does not seem to resolve the issue.  I think that is because that is rated at 10amps. There might be a bit too high for the 3.15a fuse in the receiver. 

My scenario was exactly same as yours. Also have the clearline with no effect.

Check your earth neutral bond + set setting 13 to UPS. It resolved my issues of AV equipment fuses blowing.

49 minutes ago, HenkFR said:

So what is your theory on why this happens?

Inverter outputs DC for a short period of time.

57 minutes ago, P1000 said:

Inverter outputs DC for a short period of time.

@P1000  You are 100% correct.  Any 50Hz transformer would immediately saturate and blow any fuse.  Any device with a SMPS would not be effected AT ALL.  Just about all switch mode power supplies could be run from DC indefinitely (albeit at a slightly higher DC voltage to that of AC).

A firmware bug could hold the inverter's H-bridge momentarily still, causing the output to go DC for a moment.  The only way to confirm this would be to check the AC output with an Oscilloscope and this would require a lot of caution (the scope would need to be run from an isolation transformer or be battery operated and AC would need to be reduced with a suitable resistor voltage divider.)

Over- and under-voltage will NOT cause a fuse to blow, at least not if the 230V varies by 30 or 40V.

13 minutes ago, Modina said:

@P1000  You are 100% correct.  Any 50Hz transformer would immediately saturate and blow any fuse.  Any device with a SMPS would not be effected AT ALL.  Just about all switch mode power supplies could be run from DC indefinitely (albeit at a slightly higher DC voltage to that of AC).

A firmware bug could hold the inverter's H-bridge momentarily still, causing the output to go DC for a moment.  The only way to confirm this would be to check the AC output with an Oscilloscope and this would require a lot of caution (the scope would need to be run from an isolation transformer or be battery operated and AC would need to be reduced with a suitable resistor voltage divider.)

Over- and under-voltage will NOT cause a fuse to blow, at least not if the 230V varies by 30 or 40V.

Very interesting, thanks for sharing!

So is there a known firmware version that fixes it?

 

PS. LuxPower support done 2 firmware updates on my inverter and it didnt resolve the issue.

Hi.

I have the same issue with amplifier 500mA fuse and door motor 5A fuse.

I have narrowed it down to fuse blow occurs when grid loadshedding starts or ends under load of 1kW plus on the system. Also blow when inverter trips on overload.

Luxpower 5kW battery and 6 pv panels

Warwick

1 hour ago, Warwick H said:

Hi.

I have the same issue with amplifier 500mA fuse and door motor 5A fuse.

I have narrowed it down to fuse blow occurs when grid loadshedding starts or ends under load of 1kW plus on the system. Also blow when inverter trips on overload.

Luxpower 5kW battery and 6 pv panels

Warwick

1. Change setting 13 from APL to UPS

2. Install an earth - neutral bond on the inverter output ( I was under the impression it had one internally, but obviously not...)

3. Update the firmware

Issue solved

@User12345 do you still have this issue? Or did yiu manage to resolve it? 

 

Seems I've got the same issue, my powered subwoofer which uses a 6.3A slow blow fuse keeps blowing. I don't always notice it right away either so can't confirm when it happens. 

 

@HenkFR

My Luxpower inverters are both set to UPS and I have installed a contactor to do the earth / neutral bonding and they're both on the latest firmware as well. So this isn't helping in my situation for some reason. 

I was toying with the idea of maybe installing one of those over voltage / under voltage / over current devices inline on the subwoofer power cable but I'm not convinced that will do anything as it may not be an over current situation? 

3 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

@User12345 do you still have this issue? Or did yiu manage to resolve it? 

 

Seems I've got the same issue, my powered subwoofer which uses a 6.3A slow blow fuse keeps blowing. I don't always notice it right away either so can't confirm when it happens. 

 

@HenkFR

My Luxpower inverters are both set to UPS and I have installed a contactor to do the earth / neutral bonding and they're both on the latest firmware as well. So this isn't helping in my situation for some reason. 

I was toying with the idea of maybe installing one of those over voltage / under voltage / over current devices inline on the subwoofer power cable but I'm not convinced that will do anything as it may not be an over current situation? 

Your slow blow fuse of 6A cannot blow unless you exceed 6A by either a big margin short term or over 6A for quite a while. 

You can also get a Sonoff Pow where you can set the overvoltage to switch it off. Also can specify a amp value or a current trigger to switch it off. This way you can try and find the level of power used when the problem arises. 

You can use the switch on option at all times after it gets power if it was off for any reason. 

Is the 6A fuse on the 220V AC side? 

 

4 hours ago, PsyCLown said:

I was toying with the idea of maybe installing one of those over voltage / under voltage / over current devices inline on the subwoofer power cable but I'm not convinced that will do

You say inline with the subwoofer that is a speaker? Is the fuse blowing on your amplifier feeding your speakers(subwoofer) if the fuse is on the ac input side of the amplifier you are exceeding 1400 watts that is excessive for for a amplifier designed for 6.3 amps. It might be that the 10ms switchover between utility and inverter is not fast enough due to capacitor degradation on the amplifier causing a surge when islanding.

Have a look at the actual 5 x 20 glass fuse if it is filled with silica it is a time delay fuse if not have a look at the way it was blown if the wire inside is just melted off it was above the 6.3 amps for a while but if their is carbon on the inside of the glass it went well above the rating of the fuse that would normally indicate a sudden high surge way above 6.3 amps.

3 hours ago, TaliaB said:

Have a look at the actual 5 x 20 glass fuse if it is filled with silica it is a time delay fuse if not have a look at the way it was blown if the wire inside is just melted off it was above the 6.3 amps for a while but if their is carbon on the inside of the glass it went well above the rating of the fuse that would normally indicate a sudden high surge way above 6.3 amps.

Just a correction. Silica is normally used for high fault currents. Slow blow fuses need not always be filled with silica. Here is a clear indication of a slow blow fuse. Here it is not the wire that melts during slow blow operation but the heat at the ball. During a much higher current than the rating then the wire would melt before the ball can heat up AFAIK. All our fast blow fuses only have the wire inside. This is up to about 10A fast and slow blow. 

Edited November 5, 20232 yr by Scorp007

It is a powered subwoofer, so the amp is part of the enclosure. So I was thinking maybe adding one inline on the power cable which powers the amp for the subwoofer.

Set the Over current protection to say 6A or even 5A and if it exceeds the current the over current device will kick in before the fuse blows - its easier waiting a few seconds instead of replacing a fuse each time.

 

I have 2x blown fuses. They are the slow blow type which looks like one wire wrapped around another wire.

Like this: 

 

The one blew clean, the other blew with some black marks around the middle.

 

I was thinking maybe I need to recap the amp as it is an older one. Although based on the feedback from many other forum members, it seems blowing of fuses is an issue with these Luxpower inverters?

 

I purchased some 6.3A fuses from Chamberlains yesterday, although they only had fast blowing. I generally don't pound on my subwoofer so figured it would be alright for a bit and will at least get it up and running.

So far so good, girlfriend was watching TV when the grid went down yesterday and the fuse did no blow. When grid power was restored the amplifier was in standby mode and the fuse did not blow either.

I will try monitor and see when the fuse blows or what causes it -there is also the possibility of a bad batch of fuses, but I think that is unlikely.

16 minutes ago, PsyCLown said:

It is a powered subwoofer, so the amp is part of the enclosure. So I was thinking maybe adding one inline on the power cable which powers the amp for the subwoofer.

Set the Over current protection to say 6A or even 5A and if it exceeds the current the over current device will kick in before the fuse blows - its easier waiting a few seconds instead of replacing a fuse each time.

 

I have 2x blown fuses. They are the slow blow type which looks like one wire wrapped around another wire.

Like this: 

 

The one blew clean, the other blew with some black marks around the middle.

 

I was thinking maybe I need to recap the amp as it is an older one. Although based on the feedback from many other forum members, it seems blowing of fuses is an issue with these Luxpower inverters?

 

I purchased some 6.3A fuses from Chamberlains yesterday, although they only had fast blowing. I generally don't pound on my subwoofer so figured it would be alright for a bit and will at least get it up and running.

So far so good, girlfriend was watching TV when the grid went down yesterday and the fuse did no blow. When grid power was restored the amplifier was in standby mode and the fuse did not blow either.

I will try monitor and see when the fuse blows or what causes it -there is also the possibility of a bad batch of fuses, but I think that is unlikely.

From the bad picture I could find it seems like the fuse is already next to the power 220V AC connector which makes me think it does serve the same function as an in line fuse on input would serve. 

Please keep us posted going forward. I also doubt the blown fuses were a bad batch. If they never blew prior to installing the Luxpower one can only think it's inverter related. 

7 minutes ago, Scorp007 said:

From the bad picture I could find it seems like the fuse is already next to the power 220V AC connector which makes me think it does serve the same function as an in line fuse on input would serve. 

Please keep us posted going forward. I also doubt the blown fuses were a bad batch. If they never blew prior to installing the Luxpower one can only think it's inverter related. 

Yes, it is basically an inline fuse for the amp. I was thinking of installing an inline overcurrent protection device which would kick in and kill power before the fuse blows. Then it would reset itself in the time specified - this would be easier for me as I would not need to keep replacing the fuses but this is a lazy bandage to the issue and not resolving the problem itself.

 

I will monitor again tonight and see whether the fuse blows when the grid drops if the subwoofer is on and then again when the grid returns if the subwoofer is on.

Next would be to try have some music playing (or maybe even a test tone) when the grid drops and comes back and see if that makes any difference.

On 2023/11/05 at 6:05 AM, PsyCLown said:

@User12345 do you still have this issue? Or did yiu manage to resolve it? 

 

Seems I've got the same issue, my powered subwoofer which uses a 6.3A slow blow fuse keeps blowing. I don't always notice it right away either so can't confirm when it happens. 

 

@HenkFR

My Luxpower inverters are both set to UPS and I have installed a contactor to do the earth / neutral bonding and they're both on the latest firmware as well. So this isn't helping in my situation for some reason. 

I was toying with the idea of maybe installing one of those over voltage / under voltage / over current devices inline on the subwoofer power cable but I'm not convinced that will do anything as it may not be an over current situation? 

Could it be that the contactor takes too long to do the earth - neutral bond?

Why dont you wire it up permanently?
Like this:
 

22 minutes ago, HenkFR said:

Could it be that the contactor takes too long to do the earth - neutral bond?

Why dont you wire it up permanently?
Like this:
 

 

I believe SANS state that there should not be a permanent earth / neutral bond if you are connected to the grid.

The contactor is pretty quick but there would still be a few ms, I am not sure whether this could be a possible cause though.