What brand of DC Surge protector/arrestor is good from your experience.

Options so far on web seems to be 

Beny

Schneider

Chint 

Many unknown Chinese brands.

 

 

55 minutes ago, L_D said:

What brand of DC Surge protector/arrestor is good from your experience.

Options so far on web seems to be 

Beny

Schneider

Chint 

Many unknown Chinese brands.

 

 

I use ZjBENY Bud-S1000 on all my meduim voltage solar arrays they rated up to 1000vdc total discharge current (8/20 µs) [(DC+/DC-) --> PE 30kA

 

 

I use Noark, if you can find it because it's not very widely sold. 

Hager, but the cost is reflective of the quality.

I am going with ZJ Beny.

 

This SPD from them in particular: https://www.beny.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/DC-Surge-Arrester-BUD-40-2.pdf

1 hour ago, Steve87 said:

I use Noark, if you can find it because it's not very widely sold. 

I was actualy interested in Noark but my supplier could not find any. @Steve87if you would be so kind to pm me the supplier you source it from. Thanks

In the end I wired it up like this using Beny

 

 

 

In the end I wired it up like this using Beny

 

 

Hi @L_D

 

Just wanted to ask is this a 2 in 2 out box and do you have rough cost of the total build. Do you think it is worth building your own or buying a "ready made" box?

 

In the end I wired it up like this using Beny

 

 

The Beny breaker, maybe I misunderstood but on the side it has this:

 

My understanding is that L+ / - would be the cables coming from the solar panels and then the load would be the cables which go to the fuses & inverter?

 

Therefore the wires should come out from the bottom of the breaker and connect to the SPD & fuse holder.

Then the cables from the solar panels should go into the top of the breaker?

 

This is how I wired up my Beny breaker at least, if I made I mistake I must go and correct it then - I also wanted to wire it similar to yours with the output at the top and cable from the solar panels at the bottom.

 

EDIT:

@TaliaB I know you build the DC protection boxes with Beny components. How do you wire it up?

Does it make a difference which side the cables are connected to on the Beny breaker?

Edited September 11, 20232 yr by PsyCLown

 

Hi @L_D

 

Just wanted to ask is this a 2 in 2 out box and do you have rough cost of the total build. Do you think it is worth building your own or buying a "ready made" box?

Building vs buying, it depends on a few different factors like what price you can get the components for and if you want to use an IP rated box like most already built DC protection boxes come with and also depends on what components you want. If you are not fussy then buying works well and can be cheaper.

Normal retail prices seem to be very similar when comparing building to buying.

 

If you are able to get the components at a discounted price, then it can work out cheaper to build.

I think my Beny components came to R1800+ and then I still needed to buy an 18 way box and assemble it, buy fuses, buy cable, glands etc.

 

Hi @L_D

 

Just wanted to ask is this a 2 in 2 out box and do you have rough cost of the total build. Do you think it is worth building your own or buying a "ready made" box?

Yes 2 in 2 out. Solis has two MPPT's - Used a 12 way for the job which came down to R2.7k and my time. 

Edited September 11, 20232 yr by L_D

@PsyCLown

Where is the most cost effective but still good quality components to get a 2 in 2 out IP65 box? I did an exercise online and the cost of the components would be +_ R3300 inc vat but no labour/time cost.

P.S. Can I use 6mm solar cable to wire up the components and then a 10mm earth wire?

 

 

@PsyCLown

Where is the most cost effective but still good quality components to get a 2 in 2 out IP65 box? I did an exercise online and the cost of the components would be +_ R3300 inc vat but no labour/time cost.

P.S. Can I use 6mm solar cable to wire up the components and then a 10mm earth wire?

 

Not sure where you stay but I bought from ARB.
6 will work easier than the 10 I used (not really needed because the PV incoming wires are 6)
Grounding wire has to be 10 with a rod, preferably 2 leading it away from your house so there is no bounceback.

I am in Durban area

 

The Beny breaker, maybe I misunderstood but on the side it has this:

 

My understanding is that L+ / - would be the cables coming from the solar panels and then the load would be the cables which go to the fuses & inverter?

 

Therefore the wires should come out from the bottom of the breaker and connect to the SPD & fuse holder.

Then the cables from the solar panels should go into the top of the breaker?

 

This is how I wired up my Beny breaker at least, if I made I mistake I must go and correct it then - I also wanted to wire it similar to yours with the output at the top and cable from the solar panels at the bottom.

 

EDIT:

@TaliaB I know you build the DC protection boxes with Beny components. How do you wire it up?

Does it make a difference which side the cables are connected to on the Beny breaker?

The BB1H is bi-directional you can connect load at top or bottom. You can use them between the battery and Mppt up to 60 amps.

DC-Isolator-Switch-BB1H-63.pdf

@L_D May I ask what type of ferrules and crimping tool have you used?

 

Not sure where you stay but I bought from ARB.
6 will work easier than the 10 I used (not really needed because the PV incoming wires are 6)
Grounding wire has to be 10 with a rod, preferably 2 leading it away from your house so there is no bounceback.

Are you sure it is 10mm minimum and not 6mm minimum for the ground cable?

I recall SANS stating a minimum of 6mm for ground cable and then the earth rod needs to be connected to the utility earth as well.

 The earth wire to the earth electrode (earth spike as we call it) must be at least equivalent to the phase conductor. If you have a 16 mm phase wire in an 8 KVA or bigger installation, then a 16 mm earth wire is required.

If a 5 KVA is installed and you decide to use 4 mm phase conductors, then a 6 mm earth wire to the electrode is still required.

Extract from Sans 10142-1 

"7.12.3.1.1 Protection in accordance with the requirements of 6.7 shall be
provided for the electrical installation in such a manner as to ensure correct
operation of the protection devices, irrespective of the source of supply or
combination of sources of supply. Operation of the protection devices shall
not rely upon the connection to the earthed point of the main supply when the
generator is operated as a switched alternative to the main supply.

Where there is no existing earth electrode installed in the electrical installation,
a suitable earth electrode may be installed in accordance with SANS 10199.
When installed, the electrode shall be bonded to the consumer's earth terminal
and to the earthing point on the alternate supply by a conductor of at least half
the cross-section of that of the phase conductor, but not less than 6 mm2"

 

@L_D May I ask what type of ferrules and crimping tool have you used?

Sure - For the single wires 'n used bootlace ferrules, you get them in 1.5, 2.5, 6 and 10's. 
Crimp with a crimper from Majortech (Chamberlains). The double's going into the single port was too tight so I used a 25 mm pin lug, bought from CQ Electrical in Pta. 
You can use a smaller pin lug if you are running 6mm wires. 

 

I have systematically crimped every multistrand wire in my house. 

Edited September 11, 20232 yr by L_D

Found these guys who have a branch in Durban where I can collect from. I think this looks good, but wanted to check if you guys think it is okay?

 

That looks good to me but I would prefer to not use MC4 connectors as it is another join which I feel is not necessary - rather take the cable up straight into the isolator.

So they only have 2 x MC4 for the output from the combiner box to the inverter. The cables from the panels run directly into the isolator, then the MC4's connect to the inverter. Would it be better to have no MC4 on the combiner box? Are the MC4's a risk?

 

So they only have 2 x MC4 for the output from the combiner box to the inverter. The cables from the panels run directly into the isolator, then the MC4's connect to the inverter. Would it be better to have no MC4 on the combiner box? Are the MC4's a risk?

I do not think it will make a massive difference but I personally prefer to have as few joins in a cable as possible.

You could also easily change this yourself, remove the MC4 connectors and replace them with some glands and run a cable from the output (fuse holders) to the inverter.

I personally prefer MC4 connectors on both the input and output. Think if you need to work on the combiner box. You cannot just switch off the sun so that there is no power on the cables. With MC4 connectors you can easily disconnect and work safely on the box. Both Rubicon and SegenSolar boxes have these MC4 connectors.