Greglsh

Update your firmware if you having issues, no issues, don't update. I should have just stayed on the firmware I was on. I did sort out the earth bond, by shutting everything down, turning off incoming power etc. The problem I have now is my screen on the inverter is a purple colour. I have tried the holding the key in to reset the screen but it stays that purple colour???

Hi Found this in Voltex site so work back from that! https://www.voltex.co.za/product/sunsynk-hybrid-inverter-5kw-48v-wifi-dongle

My SunSynk 5kw inverter had a firmware update yesterday, so new firmware is MCU 3388 and E440, since this update the earth neutral bond is permanently on now (in the outputdB), this used to only come on when the grid failed and then would go off after 30 to 60 seconds once the grid was back. Any body else have this issue before any suggestions, have done a complete power off waited 5 min and turned back on same issue.

I don't think that timers save you money, but you can control when it heats so mine only heats when the sun comes up so probably costs the same but my solar is heating most of it. Is this the type of "lagging" you guys are using on your pipes?

Wanted to get some of you clever peoples opinions. Is a geyser blanket worth its cost and if so what is the rough payback period on say a 150l Kwikot geyser, I have changed the element to a 2Kw. I have 2 150l geysers in the house, the one feeds the kitchen +_ 15m from the geyser, this also feeds my sons bathroom, this still has a 3kw element. The other 150l geyser feeds the main bathroom (shower only). All geysers are controlled via an Astute smart switches in the DB board. I do have solar (5kw SunSynk, 14.3Kwh of battery, soon to be 28.6Kwh), wanted to try and save as much power in order to charge my 2 batteries. So if a blanket would help the loses it might be something I would do.

Glad to hear you on the mend, keep well.

That is how I use mine, disable the schedule and turn on again when needed, have been running 3 of these now for 2 years no problems at all.

I charge mine to 56v it stay there for about 30 min, then it drops down to 54v, if it does drop below 53.5v due to a load being turned on, it will re-bulk back to 56v. Rinse and repeat. I start my balancing at 3.45v

Just my 2 c worth, I have DIY batteries so don't have either of these. If this was me I would keep the LBSA batteries, pay the 4k to get the old one sorted out, then purchase LBSA batteries for any new ones. To me the LFP battery chemistry is safer.

I have also been on the beta since 2023, I have logged into the Account but don't see any mention of payment or to opt out?

Hi, not sure if this has been asked before, but I would like to show a total of the "non-essentials" load for the day, it does this for the UPS / essentials load but I cant seem to find this for non essentials.

@TaliaB any good sources for those panels, they seem expensive, would also work well on a Victron MPPT 150v/45.

Has anybody done a DIY battery build and used these "small" fire extinguishers. If so I would like to know where you got them and the cost and do they work and should we be using them?

Hi Dox I wanted to ask where you getting your battery cases, I really like the look of those and what BMS do you run?

Item: 2x Jean Muller Fuse-switch-disconnector KETO size 00 body (battery isolator) 4 x NH Fuse-link 125A for KETO-00 Age: New (never been used bought in Nov 2024) Price: R800 for the entire package or R450 for 1 x Fuse isolator and 2 x 125 A Fuse-links Payment Method Accepted: EFT Warranty: none Packaging: Original Condition: New Location: Durban Reason: Bought them but don't need them anymore, project changed. Shipping: Yes on buyer Collection: yes can meet at a central location Link: https://www.newtechpower.co.za/product/keto-battery-disconnector-with-125a-fuses/

Another good option which is "easier" than Home Assistant (I have both), is Solar Assistant also runs on a raspberry pi and gives a lot of control and real time info of your system. https://solar-assistant.io/

Did you ever get any feedback about the cabinet carrying more than 70Kg's per shelf?

Hi, I wanted to ask what is everyone's' base load at night. So basically after the panels stop producing power what is the almost constant load you have running? The reason I ask is I have a 14.3Kw DIY battery and my base loads can be over 700w, this does not include the granny flat and garages, if I take that into account it is just above 1kw. I read some people only have say 1 or maybe 2 5kw batteries and they still have around 40% the next morning. I am in IT so do probably have a bit extra running then say most people but was just interested in others base loads. I am looking to add another 14.3Kw DIY battery busy building it at the moment in my spare time.

Thanks for the info @Pho3niX90 , I wanted to ask what battery box/cabinet do you use or build for your DIY batteries.

Hi @Scorp007 where do you buy the Epever units in South Africa? I also wanted to check are they more value for money than the Victron units as I was also looking to just add panels to the DC battery bus to help charge the batteries.

If you don't mind can you share the details who you used otherwise DM me please. What did you bring in.

This is what I get when I click on the bottom link https://www.apexiummall.com/

Hi, Have a friend who has a strange issue, they have solar, 1 x 5kw battery (Hubble) and grid, all good when they have grid, but when they have load shedding, the inverter beeps and turns off and shows error 06, What he then does is, turns off the inverter , turns off the battery, turns off the solar. Then turns on the solar, turns on the battery and then turns on the inverter and then he says he has to change the program to sbu from sub. It then will work fine for the 2 hour load shedding. Once the power comes back on, same issue, error 06, he then has to repeat turning everything off and then back on and then he changes it to sub and it works okay. I am not to familiar with the Growatt inverters as I have the SunSynk, but where could he possibly start looking. Thank you

If I am reading the inverter correctly it looks like the max current it can pull is 131 amps. This site has a calculator that you can enter the width and thickness of the busbar and it will give you the current rating, I would go for a minimum of 25% more so +- 165 amps. https://www.allumiax.com/bus-bar-size-calculator

Okay, what inverter are they going to be connected to.