GTP

Mystery solved in my case. My installer confirmed the ct was setup on the essential loads only. Not sure why.. but anyways, they will be coming out to correct it. Thanks for the discussion everyone, i would not have had this sorted if it werent for this thread

I just got my ITS 5.4 moved onto essential load as well. It ran for 15 odd minutes and I can confirm it ran between 1.8 and 2kw
Edit. Ok. I have now seen the heat pump run in all its iterations now that I can visualise consumption on the inverter.
So for the startup and initial cycle, the unit fires up and runs at aroun 1450w, slowly creeping up to around 1800w. This is over the course of some 40mins.
The evening cycles when my family does their bath routine, the unit runs at 1700w and creeps up to around 2000w.. 
In all, it runs just under 2 hours a day in this weather.
I remember in March it ran for around 90mins. 
I did bump up the temperature by 3 degC as the Mrs was not happy. In summer I will drop it by 5 degC. So in summary. I guess the really big savings will be seen in the warmer months when the COP is greater. In winter, i am still seeing a 60% odd reduction, and I put it down to running at almost half the power, and for such a short period of time.
I do think the specification jargon is on the misleading side.. i acknowledge that the label says max power is 2000w.. i didnt expect that most of the power is in the upper range though.

I just got my ITS 5.4 moved onto essential load as well. It ran for 15 odd minutes and I can confirm it ran between 1.8 and 2kw
Edit. Ok. I have now seen the heat pump run in all its iterations now that I can visualise consumption on the inverter.
So for the startup and initial cycle, the unit fires up and runs at aroun 1450w, slowly creeping up to around 1800w. This is over the course of some 40mins.
The evening cycles when my family does their bath routine, the unit runs at 1700w and creeps up to around 2000w.. 
In all, it runs just under 2 hours a day in this weather.
I remember in March it ran for around 90mins. 
I did bump up the temperature by 3 degC as the Mrs was not happy. In summer I will drop it by 5 degC. So in summary. I guess the really big savings will be seen in the warmer months when the COP is greater. In winter, i am still seeing a 60% odd reduction, and I put it down to running at almost half the power, and for such a short period of time.
I do think the specification jargon is on the misleading side.. i acknowledge that the label says max power is 2000w.. i didnt expect that most of the power is in the upper range though.

Heat pump has been in for a little over 2 weeks now. From my observations, it runs for 30mins when the time kicks in. This is around midday. It then kicks in again with the bath/shower routines between 6 and 8pm. The latter times.. for about 15 or 20 mins. So in all. It appears to run for some 1h15 a day given the current weather and the current useage pattern. My guestimate is thus 1400w odd for hot water. 
So far so good. No noticeable difference in water temperature. Going to wait until May or June to gauge how it runs before I then move it onto essential loads. I can then also verify whether it does in fact run per spec at around 1200w. This should be easily covered by my PV which does virtually no work from 12pm currently.
My billing cycle runs from 18 to 17 of each month. So i will obly get to see its effect on total power from the next month cycle. However i am curious to see what these 10 days would have done.. for a change I am actually eager to receive the bill

People in JHB and surrounds, @Leshen is your guy
 
He sorted out a dodgy install an "approved" sunsynk installer did for me in Dec (which i found out had several CoC violations), also sorted out other dodgy wiring (I have no idea how this house got a CoC when we bought it!)
 
And now, 6 months later I ran into an odd problem and @Leshen was helping me yet again at 21:30 to narrow down the problem
 
He also did the install for my brother in law's system after I recommened him.
Cannot reccommend him enough!
 

Your system is showing pretty much the same performance as mine is currently. And mine is down because of winter. I have 6x 455w panels and am peaking at 1900w. In March i was still easuly hitting 2400w at peak. Only difference in my case is the season. So looks ok to me 

Issue on mine is the installation is about 20m away from the DB. So in the trunking I can see the CT around 1 of 2 load wires. There are 3 with the one being isolated as the PV load. The other 2 load wires come from the DB. I guess one is essential load and the other is grid. 
Dropped my installer a message to ask about this. 
 
Question (and apologies for hijacking the thread)..
Assuming the CT is correct.. if the total load on the house icon was 500w.. and i entered the Grid page, is it normal to see the CT value showing a positive number and the LD value showing a negative value? 
Example. CT 300w and LD -200w?

If you draw from the grid then you should see that value as positive. If it shows negative the CT is reversed. I doubt that the CT is correct if on any wire between the DB and inverter unless the whole house is on essential. The LD at - 200W I take is the value that should be positive if you have 200W load switched on.
The easy way to check is if the grid=CT shows 300W and you switch on the stove or any large load like the geyser by running hot water the grid value should increase accordingly. The line from inverter to battery will show negative while being charged from grid.
I bit difficult to give exact guidance not knowing how the loads are split etc.

It should quite easy to spot the CT. It should be on the main incoming power between grid connection and DB. The small arrow pointing to the DB main incomer.
Get the installer to confirm and get it corrected. This point is clearly indicated in the manual and videos.

No. I dont see non essential loads on my inverter. Only essential loads.
Example, if the geyser runs on its element, i do not see its draw on the inverter infographics

Hi there. Based on my Deye use,
1.1 essential load only
1.2 the battery will provide power until the percentage typed in for that time frame. If the load exceeds the battery capacity, it will supplement with grid power. Ticking the box means grid will be used to charge the battery if it is below the percentage indicated.
 
1.3 not sure. I understand it as simply using the settings as the preferred operation mode. If eskkm drops, solar does its thing. In the absence of the sun, battery kicks in
 
2. Yes. I understand it like that as well

My heatpump averaged around 1.1KWh per day (March), currently(June) using about 1.6KWh to warm the water(150l). It runs for about 90 minutes.
I have since installed solar and get great satisfaction from heating water during the day when the sun shines (still need to install a battery so grid-tied for the moment).

Yes it can

As someone who changed from Growatt to Deye, my reason for the change, off grid inverter vs. Hybrid. My battery did not communicate properly with the growatt, and the bms froze all settings. Battery works well with the Deye and settings are fully customisable. 
I also find better flexibility on the Deye for the day to operation as pertains to grid vs battery vs PV power. I find it better for my needs than the SUB and SBU settings. 
I wouldnt say the Deye is superior. Its different, and better suited for what I needed.

Good rule of thumb, to be considered in conjunction with rainfall & cloud cover patterns for your region. Tilting up in Winter might yield better results in Gauteng than Cape Town, and vice versa for tilting down.

A "rule of thumb" for optimal panel tilt (both summer and winter) is to have the same degree of tilt as your latitude (0 degrees measured as parallel to level). I am in Midrand, Jhb, so my panels at 26 degrees is near enough (fortunately my roof pitch was good). For those in CT, around 34 degrees would be great.
Optimal tilt would be latitude + 15 degrees for winter and latitude -15 degrees in summer (and in-between these (therefore Latitude) for Autumn and Spring). There is fancy tilting kit available (that adjusts by 5 degrees each month), but for home installs, it is generally most economical to use static panels with optimal tilt for Autumn and Spring (hence the "rule of thumb", and make up any deficiencies by installing additional panels 😄 

Mine too.  I lose about 20% power in winter. In summer the system performs to spec. The chamge in angle of the sun makes a big difference for sure. No idea what my tilt is. I guess its around 20deg.

As promised, i received my power bill today. For the first ever for my household, my eskom useage dropped below 200 units. 
I averaged out my consumption between October and and Feb, and this last cycle useage turned in a 55% reduction in power use. This also coincided with the temperature dropping around these parts. The effect of the temperature changes has been that the unit runs for around 2hours a day, rather than the 1h15 i was seeing last month. 
I think I am happy with the performance so far. I expect to see bigger savings in summer when the ambient helps performance. I think i will give it another month before I move it onto essential loads. I also dropped my inverter grid feed from 20w to 10w. I dont get expect material differences from this, but every bit helps.
Now... aboiut a gas stove...

As promised, i received my power bill today. For the first ever for my household, my eskom useage dropped below 200 units. 
I averaged out my consumption between October and and Feb, and this last cycle useage turned in a 55% reduction in power use. This also coincided with the temperature dropping around these parts. The effect of the temperature changes has been that the unit runs for around 2hours a day, rather than the 1h15 i was seeing last month. 
I think I am happy with the performance so far. I expect to see bigger savings in summer when the ambient helps performance. I think i will give it another month before I move it onto essential loads. I also dropped my inverter grid feed from 20w to 10w. I dont get expect material differences from this, but every bit helps.
Now... aboiut a gas stove...

Yes, i have also noticed this on my instance

Please post pictures of all your settings

For the full cycle. It varies between 1.7 and 1.9 kw.

Heat pump has been in for a little over 2 weeks now. From my observations, it runs for 30mins when the time kicks in. This is around midday. It then kicks in again with the bath/shower routines between 6 and 8pm. The latter times.. for about 15 or 20 mins. So in all. It appears to run for some 1h15 a day given the current weather and the current useage pattern. My guestimate is thus 1400w odd for hot water. 
So far so good. No noticeable difference in water temperature. Going to wait until May or June to gauge how it runs before I then move it onto essential loads. I can then also verify whether it does in fact run per spec at around 1200w. This should be easily covered by my PV which does virtually no work from 12pm currently.
My billing cycle runs from 18 to 17 of each month. So i will obly get to see its effect on total power from the next month cycle. However i am curious to see what these 10 days would have done.. for a change I am actually eager to receive the bill

Good Day All,
Busy with lighting changes at the property and have been looking around locally for an adapter that would convert screw-in to LED downlighter format. Nothing available in Joburg from local electricians.
So, did some Googling and got hold of FutureLight in Cape Town (futurelight.co.za). They had edzachery what I was looking for. So I ordered 6 of the E27 - GU10 converters. They also supply others as per the attachment below.
Did the order online on Tuesday morning and they were delivered this morning to Edenvale. Excellent service and the quality of the product is great. Would recommend using the supplier and the converters.
MdF

Success!!!!!
Tried to get this done via the Solarman app using the setup process there (normal and quick), nothing worked. Decided to ask our friend Google and came across this video:
Connected to my AP, went to the web address on my phone. Accessed with the username / pwd and set it up from the menu there. Worked first time! At least if anyone else have similar issues here is a solution 🙂