LoodPyp

@Marcodp Thank you for sharing.
First, the mounting position on panels. This picture is for JASolar 365 - 390W Panels (just to illustrate the principle):

The vertical mounting hole sets are spaced 1150 and 1400mm apart. I understand that the ideal clamping position is between these sets of holes (along green lines).
On to the shadow. Learn from my mistake, as I mounted my panels too close to my solar geyser. During the winter months, it casts a shadow on the closest two or three panels (depending on time of day), affecting performance of the entire string. Yesterday I moved those three panels out of the shade. Here are the results between yesterday and today (both days: clear blue skies):

Excuse the readability, but I resized one graph to show equal vertical scales. Orange line shows 3kW. The winter's reduced power generation from having a roof inclined at 15-20 degrees is nowhere near the reduction in performance due to shading. Today the batteries were full just after 1pm, whereas yesterday charging was still underway at 4pm when I disconnected for the relocation (mains charging required). Peak power of a string of 9*455W on one MPPT has increased by ((4.63-3.31)/3.31 😃 40% just due to removing the partial shadow (similar in extent to your chimney's) from 3 panels. Before moving the panels, I may have been better off just disconnecting 2 or 3 panels. (If you want to try that yourself during the day, just remember to disconnect the breaker feeding DC to the inverter before disconnecting the cables at the panels.)

Thanks for the feedback @JamesF, glad to find it a new home.

@Marcodp Thank you for sharing.
First, the mounting position on panels. This picture is for JASolar 365 - 390W Panels (just to illustrate the principle):

The vertical mounting hole sets are spaced 1150 and 1400mm apart. I understand that the ideal clamping position is between these sets of holes (along green lines).
On to the shadow. Learn from my mistake, as I mounted my panels too close to my solar geyser. During the winter months, it casts a shadow on the closest two or three panels (depending on time of day), affecting performance of the entire string. Yesterday I moved those three panels out of the shade. Here are the results between yesterday and today (both days: clear blue skies):

Excuse the readability, but I resized one graph to show equal vertical scales. Orange line shows 3kW. The winter's reduced power generation from having a roof inclined at 15-20 degrees is nowhere near the reduction in performance due to shading. Today the batteries were full just after 1pm, whereas yesterday charging was still underway at 4pm when I disconnected for the relocation (mains charging required). Peak power of a string of 9*455W on one MPPT has increased by ((4.63-3.31)/3.31 😃 40% just due to removing the partial shadow (similar in extent to your chimney's) from 3 panels. Before moving the panels, I may have been better off just disconnecting 2 or 3 panels. (If you want to try that yourself during the day, just remember to disconnect the breaker feeding DC to the inverter before disconnecting the cables at the panels.)

Sundrying your labour may cause some issues at the CCMA ... 

@Marcodp Thank you for sharing.
First, the mounting position on panels. This picture is for JASolar 365 - 390W Panels (just to illustrate the principle):

The vertical mounting hole sets are spaced 1150 and 1400mm apart. I understand that the ideal clamping position is between these sets of holes (along green lines).
On to the shadow. Learn from my mistake, as I mounted my panels too close to my solar geyser. During the winter months, it casts a shadow on the closest two or three panels (depending on time of day), affecting performance of the entire string. Yesterday I moved those three panels out of the shade. Here are the results between yesterday and today (both days: clear blue skies):

Excuse the readability, but I resized one graph to show equal vertical scales. Orange line shows 3kW. The winter's reduced power generation from having a roof inclined at 15-20 degrees is nowhere near the reduction in performance due to shading. Today the batteries were full just after 1pm, whereas yesterday charging was still underway at 4pm when I disconnected for the relocation (mains charging required). Peak power of a string of 9*455W on one MPPT has increased by ((4.63-3.31)/3.31 😃 40% just due to removing the partial shadow (similar in extent to your chimney's) from 3 panels. Before moving the panels, I may have been better off just disconnecting 2 or 3 panels. (If you want to try that yourself during the day, just remember to disconnect the breaker feeding DC to the inverter before disconnecting the cables at the panels.)

@Marcodp Thank you for sharing.
First, the mounting position on panels. This picture is for JASolar 365 - 390W Panels (just to illustrate the principle):

The vertical mounting hole sets are spaced 1150 and 1400mm apart. I understand that the ideal clamping position is between these sets of holes (along green lines).
On to the shadow. Learn from my mistake, as I mounted my panels too close to my solar geyser. During the winter months, it casts a shadow on the closest two or three panels (depending on time of day), affecting performance of the entire string. Yesterday I moved those three panels out of the shade. Here are the results between yesterday and today (both days: clear blue skies):

Excuse the readability, but I resized one graph to show equal vertical scales. Orange line shows 3kW. The winter's reduced power generation from having a roof inclined at 15-20 degrees is nowhere near the reduction in performance due to shading. Today the batteries were full just after 1pm, whereas yesterday charging was still underway at 4pm when I disconnected for the relocation (mains charging required). Peak power of a string of 9*455W on one MPPT has increased by ((4.63-3.31)/3.31 😃 40% just due to removing the partial shadow (similar in extent to your chimney's) from 3 panels. Before moving the panels, I may have been better off just disconnecting 2 or 3 panels. (If you want to try that yourself during the day, just remember to disconnect the breaker feeding DC to the inverter before disconnecting the cables at the panels.)

@Marcodp Thank you for sharing.
First, the mounting position on panels. This picture is for JASolar 365 - 390W Panels (just to illustrate the principle):

The vertical mounting hole sets are spaced 1150 and 1400mm apart. I understand that the ideal clamping position is between these sets of holes (along green lines).
On to the shadow. Learn from my mistake, as I mounted my panels too close to my solar geyser. During the winter months, it casts a shadow on the closest two or three panels (depending on time of day), affecting performance of the entire string. Yesterday I moved those three panels out of the shade. Here are the results between yesterday and today (both days: clear blue skies):

Excuse the readability, but I resized one graph to show equal vertical scales. Orange line shows 3kW. The winter's reduced power generation from having a roof inclined at 15-20 degrees is nowhere near the reduction in performance due to shading. Today the batteries were full just after 1pm, whereas yesterday charging was still underway at 4pm when I disconnected for the relocation (mains charging required). Peak power of a string of 9*455W on one MPPT has increased by ((4.63-3.31)/3.31 😃 40% just due to removing the partial shadow (similar in extent to your chimney's) from 3 panels. Before moving the panels, I may have been better off just disconnecting 2 or 3 panels. (If you want to try that yourself during the day, just remember to disconnect the breaker feeding DC to the inverter before disconnecting the cables at the panels.)

Hi @SkilliePower
Since no other comments are offered, I'll mention the basics - at the risk of stating the obvious, since you asked no specific questions.
I'm not going to address the technical issues about specific products, but mention general principles:
By "you" I am addressing the household, since everyone needs to work together at making the implemented plan succeed.
Assuming 20% minimum State of Charge (SOC), one 2.5kWh battery at 2kW discharge rate will last max 1h, regardless of whether it is drawn from the kitchen, bedroom, lights, etc. Obviously, the less you draw, the longer the battery will take to discharge.
Assuming 2.5h of loadshedding per event, you will need to limit power drawn to below (2000Wh/2.5h=) 800W (on average) to last from 100% to 20% SOC on the 2.5kWh battery. The lower the start SOC, the lighter the average load needs to be to last, or the shorter the duration until the inverter switches off. If past stage 4, loadshedding may extend to 4.5h per event.
Back to your post: have you quantified the load for early morning/evening loadhsedding? (What is included in your  requirement - lights (how many?) TV, radio, alarm system, bedside appliances, etc?) If a permanent installation, consider wiring the DB to supply just those essential sockets to prevent 'accidentally' using battery power on a hairdrier.
How does the math add up - both power supply/demand and finances? And rather be a tad too generous than too accurate, since there always seems to be some form of scope creep *after* budgeting for the requirements.
I hope you find what you need and that it works for you.

2x Shoto batteries dated 31 August 2021. Master showed as dead last week. Upon recommendation by supplier I disconnected both batteries and reset the master (by 2 minute reset press), and it seems to be behaving well now, as before. The next option was to return it to the supplier for BMS replacement. (Thanks to this discussion I was able to avoid that as a first option.)

Hi @SkilliePower
Since no other comments are offered, I'll mention the basics - at the risk of stating the obvious, since you asked no specific questions.
I'm not going to address the technical issues about specific products, but mention general principles:
By "you" I am addressing the household, since everyone needs to work together at making the implemented plan succeed.
Assuming 20% minimum State of Charge (SOC), one 2.5kWh battery at 2kW discharge rate will last max 1h, regardless of whether it is drawn from the kitchen, bedroom, lights, etc. Obviously, the less you draw, the longer the battery will take to discharge.
Assuming 2.5h of loadshedding per event, you will need to limit power drawn to below (2000Wh/2.5h=) 800W (on average) to last from 100% to 20% SOC on the 2.5kWh battery. The lower the start SOC, the lighter the average load needs to be to last, or the shorter the duration until the inverter switches off. If past stage 4, loadshedding may extend to 4.5h per event.
Back to your post: have you quantified the load for early morning/evening loadhsedding? (What is included in your  requirement - lights (how many?) TV, radio, alarm system, bedside appliances, etc?) If a permanent installation, consider wiring the DB to supply just those essential sockets to prevent 'accidentally' using battery power on a hairdrier.
How does the math add up - both power supply/demand and finances? And rather be a tad too generous than too accurate, since there always seems to be some form of scope creep *after* budgeting for the requirements.
I hope you find what you need and that it works for you.

Hi Eldred.
I believe that your current budget allows for addressing your needs. (Where are you located, if I may ask? Another member may be able to advise regarding local options.)
Prices have changed since last year, but I'll mention figures to illustrate. Sunsynk 5kW (R21k) vs 8kW (R31k). Deye is similar to Synsynk, but slightly cheaper to purchase (about R3k for 5kW model). If pressed for price and you only want to buy once, learn once, set up once, consider buying the 8kW Deye. (Having suffered with an Axpert before, I'd avoid it myself.) If you have sufficient solar collection now, you could add panels later, budget permitting. Remember to plan for that capacity and mounting now and only pay once for hardware, and you could possibly install additional panels yourself and simply connect. In the meantime you have a reasonable "free" solar supplemental input and back-up during loadshedding. My present consumption is about 30kWh per day. I chose the 5kW inverter based on current need, but am aware that long term needs may differ, although children are now leaving home. However, I installed a higher power cable to connect inverter to DB for future-proofing.
I bought 4kW of panels to add to my previous panels (conveniently now on 2 strings). Even if mounted flat on roof, remember to budget for mountings, which add up fast. My roof pitch is 15 degrees, so summer yield is high (>5kW). Last week I changed the pitch of the old panels to about 40-45 degrees and am now receiving 400W more at peak (on 1.6kW nameplate rating, that is significant). My newer panels may see a similar adjustment soon, but I am prepared to adjust seasonally.
I opted to have the electric stove connection bypass the inverter completely. (The top runs on gas.) The geyser has a 2kW element, although I have solar prefeed (saving 50%). This allows electric heating by day using solar at no/little cost. (These options add up, allowing you maximum draw from solar when available, otherwise it has to be stored in battery or lost. In winter, with shorter days, it could become a significant portion if managed correctly.) You are able to manage battery levels to reserve a predetermined charge for the event that loadshedding strikes from 6-8am, provided your battery capacity is sufficient to supply your household's morning peak. Which brings us to batteries. I opted for 2*5kW Li-ion batteries, which last well through warm, shorter summer nights. However, using timed charge limits overnight to ensure 2kWh available power through peak demand results in municipal power usage during winter. (Monthly usage is now about 200 kWh in winter, almost none is summer.) One 5kWh battery is sufficient for 2.5h of loadshedding, day or night (i.e. 4kWh use from fully charged, but just don't keep it there if you want it to last).
I installed the rooftop panels, inverter and local isolation/fuses myself, saving on installation fees. Don't hesitate to renegotiate cost with the installer if they only connect components. Although prices have increased, if you can accept 4kWh back-up with 5kW inverter, then you should still make it with R100k (installation, rewiring DB, switches, fuses, mountings and large components).
Flexibility depends on priorities, and remember to shop around for prices once you have decided which option/model suits you. I stay in a 'dorpie' with a reputable and willing electrical store, and knowing that I can count on their support for planning, sizing and purchasing hardware such as inverter, panels, batteries, fuses, etc. provides ease of mind.
I hope you can settle your needs and wants into a reasonable specification (or two) soon and get your project going.

Hi Eldred.
I believe that your current budget allows for addressing your needs. (Where are you located, if I may ask? Another member may be able to advise regarding local options.)
Prices have changed since last year, but I'll mention figures to illustrate. Sunsynk 5kW (R21k) vs 8kW (R31k). Deye is similar to Synsynk, but slightly cheaper to purchase (about R3k for 5kW model). If pressed for price and you only want to buy once, learn once, set up once, consider buying the 8kW Deye. (Having suffered with an Axpert before, I'd avoid it myself.) If you have sufficient solar collection now, you could add panels later, budget permitting. Remember to plan for that capacity and mounting now and only pay once for hardware, and you could possibly install additional panels yourself and simply connect. In the meantime you have a reasonable "free" solar supplemental input and back-up during loadshedding. My present consumption is about 30kWh per day. I chose the 5kW inverter based on current need, but am aware that long term needs may differ, although children are now leaving home. However, I installed a higher power cable to connect inverter to DB for future-proofing.
I bought 4kW of panels to add to my previous panels (conveniently now on 2 strings). Even if mounted flat on roof, remember to budget for mountings, which add up fast. My roof pitch is 15 degrees, so summer yield is high (>5kW). Last week I changed the pitch of the old panels to about 40-45 degrees and am now receiving 400W more at peak (on 1.6kW nameplate rating, that is significant). My newer panels may see a similar adjustment soon, but I am prepared to adjust seasonally.
I opted to have the electric stove connection bypass the inverter completely. (The top runs on gas.) The geyser has a 2kW element, although I have solar prefeed (saving 50%). This allows electric heating by day using solar at no/little cost. (These options add up, allowing you maximum draw from solar when available, otherwise it has to be stored in battery or lost. In winter, with shorter days, it could become a significant portion if managed correctly.) You are able to manage battery levels to reserve a predetermined charge for the event that loadshedding strikes from 6-8am, provided your battery capacity is sufficient to supply your household's morning peak. Which brings us to batteries. I opted for 2*5kW Li-ion batteries, which last well through warm, shorter summer nights. However, using timed charge limits overnight to ensure 2kWh available power through peak demand results in municipal power usage during winter. (Monthly usage is now about 200 kWh in winter, almost none is summer.) One 5kWh battery is sufficient for 2.5h of loadshedding, day or night (i.e. 4kWh use from fully charged, but just don't keep it there if you want it to last).
I installed the rooftop panels, inverter and local isolation/fuses myself, saving on installation fees. Don't hesitate to renegotiate cost with the installer if they only connect components. Although prices have increased, if you can accept 4kWh back-up with 5kW inverter, then you should still make it with R100k (installation, rewiring DB, switches, fuses, mountings and large components).
Flexibility depends on priorities, and remember to shop around for prices once you have decided which option/model suits you. I stay in a 'dorpie' with a reputable and willing electrical store, and knowing that I can count on their support for planning, sizing and purchasing hardware such as inverter, panels, batteries, fuses, etc. provides ease of mind.
I hope you can settle your needs and wants into a reasonable specification (or two) soon and get your project going.

The SunSynk firmware version is displayed on the screen and can also be views from the Sunsynk app (requires Sunsynk wifi dongle).

NOTE: You will need either the SolarMan WiFi or SunSynk WiFi dongle for support to remotely update the firmware.
You request an upgrade via:
https://www.sunsynk.org/up-grade
 
 

Different strokes for different folks.
However, I share @isetech's view.
The reason for monitoring (the Check step in the Plan-Do-Check-Act cycle) is to determine what has resulted from the installation's operation. A part of this is identifying system improvement opportunities (e.g. optimising settings), but the other part is noting what adjustment *you* may require (habits, schedules, etc.) in order to improve your power system's performance.
If you'll invest some time to understand your system and its peculiar details, you'll be better equipped to confidently extract maximum benefit. Many owners soon realise that their installer is not an expert regarding their specific system configuration.

@Vijen If you remain within the maximum settings on both MPPTS, you are able to maximise solar generation by typically mounting one string of panels (near max capacity) facing East and another facing West, suitably angled to reach (about or slightly over) optimum capacity between the two at noon. This will allow earlier solar generation, a high level compromise during the day as you transition primary feed from East to West string, and longer generation toward sunset, when others with flatter, North-facing panels have almost reduced input current to a mere trickle.
The physical (roof location, angle and weather) and economic constraints (cost vs benefit) often dictate where to find the balance.

you'd think so, but still leaves a residue, had to clean them a few days ago (trying to max what little I can get), always wonder what the neighbors think when they see me up there with a foam mop and hosepipe.

Don't forget to count the cost of the mounting system.  This is typically some cost per panel, irrespective of the panel size.  The calculation can look very different if your mounting system is suddenly 20% more expensive because you picked more, lower yielding panels.

An excellent approach to achieving your desired results - which, by the way, are very pleasing to the eye. (I'd also forego the opportunity to pay for advice from someone who thinks they know better how to be the best you.)
Thanks for sharing your info and the results. May that system serve you well for many years!
 

@Silkman
Essential information you need to formalise your requirements:
1) Have you optimised your electrical consumption yet?
First reduce power consumption before oversizing your system at great expense. Alternative options include gas for the hob, geyser, etc., more efficient or lower capacity appliances (e.g. for when next you must replace a freezer), thermal insulation of the house for both winter heat retention and summer cooling. Even simple alternatives such as opening windows for fresh air, rather than using an airconditioner can deliver significant results.
2) Understand your present power consumption, and preferably times of use too.
If you use much power during daylight hours, you may lean toward more solar panels. If heavy consumption is at other times, you'll need to store this in batteries to be able to supply it later, unless you live in a region where wind power or a water turbine provides an alternative source. Presently the PV (photovoltaic = solar panels) is often the cheaper option, and having additional capacity helps for rainy days and shorter winter days.
You may consider replacing a geyser element to allow fit it into your capacity plan (i.e. inverter sizing).
3) Priorities.
If your usage patterns are flexible, how flexible are they? Are your solutions acceptable to the household (who could make it work or break it). Daylight electrical use to pump borehole water and heat geysers to maximum is general practice, but do you need to reheat overnight? This point is a very touchy subject, and several people regard it as non-negotiable. After all, who enjoys a lukewarm bath on a winter morning? Are you prepared to accept only powering essential items when battery power is low, or will you need to add storage, typically to compensate for the second or third rainy day. (On that note, where do you stay? Your weather is a significant factor and learning from others in similar climatic regions will shorten and lighten your learning.) Also factor future developments in, such as children, work from home, etc.
And the most important question to answer for yourself is what your budget allows. Are you prepared to pay for: a)  overcoming load shedding, b) a reduction of dependency on municipal supply, c) self-sufficiency while still maintaining the municipal connection for unforeseen situations while proving that your capacity planning was sufficient, or d) total grid separation (which may require supplementing with a generator for emergencies)? It never hurts to have additional funds for all the additional expenses which pop up during and after the main event.
Finally, find out which local suppliers are effective in delivering good service. Building a solid foundation to keep your system running afterward may have significant cost implications later on. The forum members' advice in this regard may also assist in avoiding unreliable suppliers.

@Silkman
Essential information you need to formalise your requirements:
1) Have you optimised your electrical consumption yet?
First reduce power consumption before oversizing your system at great expense. Alternative options include gas for the hob, geyser, etc., more efficient or lower capacity appliances (e.g. for when next you must replace a freezer), thermal insulation of the house for both winter heat retention and summer cooling. Even simple alternatives such as opening windows for fresh air, rather than using an airconditioner can deliver significant results.
2) Understand your present power consumption, and preferably times of use too.
If you use much power during daylight hours, you may lean toward more solar panels. If heavy consumption is at other times, you'll need to store this in batteries to be able to supply it later, unless you live in a region where wind power or a water turbine provides an alternative source. Presently the PV (photovoltaic = solar panels) is often the cheaper option, and having additional capacity helps for rainy days and shorter winter days.
You may consider replacing a geyser element to allow fit it into your capacity plan (i.e. inverter sizing).
3) Priorities.
If your usage patterns are flexible, how flexible are they? Are your solutions acceptable to the household (who could make it work or break it). Daylight electrical use to pump borehole water and heat geysers to maximum is general practice, but do you need to reheat overnight? This point is a very touchy subject, and several people regard it as non-negotiable. After all, who enjoys a lukewarm bath on a winter morning? Are you prepared to accept only powering essential items when battery power is low, or will you need to add storage, typically to compensate for the second or third rainy day. (On that note, where do you stay? Your weather is a significant factor and learning from others in similar climatic regions will shorten and lighten your learning.) Also factor future developments in, such as children, work from home, etc.
And the most important question to answer for yourself is what your budget allows. Are you prepared to pay for: a)  overcoming load shedding, b) a reduction of dependency on municipal supply, c) self-sufficiency while still maintaining the municipal connection for unforeseen situations while proving that your capacity planning was sufficient, or d) total grid separation (which may require supplementing with a generator for emergencies)? It never hurts to have additional funds for all the additional expenses which pop up during and after the main event.
Finally, find out which local suppliers are effective in delivering good service. Building a solid foundation to keep your system running afterward may have significant cost implications later on. The forum members' advice in this regard may also assist in avoiding unreliable suppliers.

@Silkman
Essential information you need to formalise your requirements:
1) Have you optimised your electrical consumption yet?
First reduce power consumption before oversizing your system at great expense. Alternative options include gas for the hob, geyser, etc., more efficient or lower capacity appliances (e.g. for when next you must replace a freezer), thermal insulation of the house for both winter heat retention and summer cooling. Even simple alternatives such as opening windows for fresh air, rather than using an airconditioner can deliver significant results.
2) Understand your present power consumption, and preferably times of use too.
If you use much power during daylight hours, you may lean toward more solar panels. If heavy consumption is at other times, you'll need to store this in batteries to be able to supply it later, unless you live in a region where wind power or a water turbine provides an alternative source. Presently the PV (photovoltaic = solar panels) is often the cheaper option, and having additional capacity helps for rainy days and shorter winter days.
You may consider replacing a geyser element to allow fit it into your capacity plan (i.e. inverter sizing).
3) Priorities.
If your usage patterns are flexible, how flexible are they? Are your solutions acceptable to the household (who could make it work or break it). Daylight electrical use to pump borehole water and heat geysers to maximum is general practice, but do you need to reheat overnight? This point is a very touchy subject, and several people regard it as non-negotiable. After all, who enjoys a lukewarm bath on a winter morning? Are you prepared to accept only powering essential items when battery power is low, or will you need to add storage, typically to compensate for the second or third rainy day. (On that note, where do you stay? Your weather is a significant factor and learning from others in similar climatic regions will shorten and lighten your learning.) Also factor future developments in, such as children, work from home, etc.
And the most important question to answer for yourself is what your budget allows. Are you prepared to pay for: a)  overcoming load shedding, b) a reduction of dependency on municipal supply, c) self-sufficiency while still maintaining the municipal connection for unforeseen situations while proving that your capacity planning was sufficient, or d) total grid separation (which may require supplementing with a generator for emergencies)? It never hurts to have additional funds for all the additional expenses which pop up during and after the main event.
Finally, find out which local suppliers are effective in delivering good service. Building a solid foundation to keep your system running afterward may have significant cost implications later on. The forum members' advice in this regard may also assist in avoiding unreliable suppliers.

Yes, but lead acid soon became dead acid batteries.
I did not confirm whether the older inverter's co-operation with a lithium battery may have been acceptable, as I upgraded to an inverter with greater capacity, grid supplementing and more user friendly controls.

I experienced similar grid priority problems with my system of similar configuration.
An electrician friend assessed the matter and came to the conclusion that the inverter is not a true hybrid (not able to supplement solar with grid power), and was cycling the batteries regularly to draw the difference, which led to premature battery failure. The inverter then eventually switched to grid more frequently, as the batteries had effectively been worn out.
That inverter is best used for off-grid application. The solution which was recommended for true hybrid operation was to replace the inverter first, since it was the cause of short battery life. Not an easy message to swallow, but rather than throwing money at the problem, I had to choose to invest in an effective solution.

We are getting back to my post in December where I had it only the MKS iii does blend PV and grid. This is normally the Axpert king, max and some Kodak models.
Although the Axpert are good I myself would not load it at maximum power. Lithium would give you more cycles but to reduce grid to save a would also go the Sunsynk route.
I thought that the 450V input units could blend as per some other topics but may be only the MKS iii.
@LoodPyp
I think years ago hybrids did mean mixing grid and PV. I think sales PPL started using the term for inverters that could use PV to charge and back up combined with a AC charger. Thus we must rather look at specs to know how the unit works.
We are finding the same with EV. Hybrid did initially charge the battery while driving and combined with the fuel engine. Lately the newer hybrids also allows batteries to be charged via a plug at home or charging stations. Nothing stays the same and hybrid as a word can mean different things.
 
 

Hi @Jacques Ester. When I was shopping around, the Sunsynk batteries were much more costly to purchase for the same rated capacity, so I settled for a different brand which has proved to work well with my inverter.