mzezman

That's quite an impressive route network and i guess that benefit is its only gonna get larger and more diverse...That initial pricing IS quite huge though - but the range anxiety and Volvo's offers do make it more enticing. Food for thoughts

And the charging network? Are you finding a lot of places in your day-to-day to charge?

I test drove one at a volvo event a few weeks ago - beautiful car and the acceleration is pretty violent... how are you finding the range and everyday usability? The price is too much for me but i would love to get one when i next change cars

Bought this one from Makro https://www.makro.co.za/appliances/fans-heaters-air-coolers/fans/floor-fans/elektra-23-cm-floor-fan-/p/000000000000383947_EA Plugged the UsB fan into the Pi i have by the inverter and that runs 24/7. If it gets hotter I'll use the larger fan also

Its going to blow up 😅🤣😅 Its not ideal but it will keep going. I've resorted to putting a fan underneath mine and now temps don't go above 65

Did you see that Geyserwise have an IoT module / addon that you can now get?

Do you guys have a blind switch / controller? The only one ive been able to find is a Tuya device

Did you restart the batteries after changing the dipswitches?

I also stayed away from IFTTT as to get the most out of it you need the paid tier - i find i am able to do the same or even better with HomeAssistant across multiple device types (Sonoff, Tuya, Google etc)

I think that automatically disqualifies him

I think the answer would be ít depends'based on your usage and battery size. I use HA to run off outside lights when we are in LS but thats about it for now - i will probably look into restricting some appliances but i haven't seen that as necessary just yet. My geyser is on non-essentials anyways so i lose it during LS - as is the oven

6500w is in total for the inverter - you CAN overspec this as you would get benefit in winter. What is the VOC of the panels? That VOC * number of panels per string should not exceed the mppt max input voltage (not the pv max voltage)

you can change it to 80A - 40A just means it will take twice as long to charge the bank now that you have 2

The inverter will trip and restart if 5kw is exceeded when there is no grid / during LS - it only takes a minute but it will take the whole house down. HomeAssistant is great and when it has inverter values (either through the native solarman integration or through Solar Assistant) its even more powerful. A few strategically placed smart plugs will go a long way to managing load. 1 on the geyser, 1 on the pool pump, and maybe even one on the oven. once grid is lost - that's an even HA can look out for - then certain actions take place, e.g. switching off these devices and notifying certain users (n phone or on smart speakers)

you dont need to remove the plant from Home - it can exists on both Home and Pro

Named / labelled differently but similar functionality

I don't have one myself so perhaps the Hubble+RIOT owners can chime in but I believe you can see the voltage for each cell as well as any errors etc on the battery

Remote monitoring of the inverter yes. Detailed battery data may require add-ons such as Riot

From the Dyness manual the setting for the master is correct but the slave has to be all down. The cabling also needs to be amended to function optimally - you can leave the red as-is but the black would then need to go from Inverter > Slave -ve > master -ve CAN cable from Inverter into IN port on Master then cable from Master Out to Slave In These batteries work 100% with Deye in Lithuim mode Source >>https://solaradvice.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Dyness-5-12kWh-BX51100-Lithiumion-Battery-UserManual.pdf

Am on mobile so I could be wrong but that cabling doesn't look correct. Which is the master battery in the setup? The dipswitches also look not right for a Deye setup. Please also post your LiBMS screen from the Deye as well as the Battery screen from the Deye

What inverter are you using with the batteries? Can you post images of the inverter battery setup and HOW the batteries were cabled?

Have been using the DW2 wifi ones and you are correct - a few weeks and time to pop in a new battery. They are all close to an AP so range-anxiety is not an issue.

No issues on my end with the Sonoff kit - i have light switches, bulbs and gate / garage switches. The battery life on the door contact sensors isnt great though and will be swapping these out in due course with zigbee-based devices

The Dyness is a 0.5c battery so each 4.8kWh unit will give you 2.4kWh draw... multiply this by 2 and you get 4.8 which is less than the 5.5 of load you are requesting, hence the trip. Everything is working as intended Generally it's not ideal to run high draw appliances (kettles, microwaves, large aircons) when off grid because of this exact thing. To solve this you can get a lower wattage kettle or another battery

with solar assistant you can make changes from your phone / desktop