Pho3niX90

EV production is not viable at all in South Africa, due to obvious reasons. I believe VW already set a ultimatum in place for SA. Same for testing the cars in SA, most plants are in Rosslyn, making importing and exporting extremely expensive, considering how far it is from the ports, as well as the unreliable train networks. But, in and around Rosslyn you will witness a lot of zebra striped, test vehicles. NC I believe was the testing grounds for high speed due to the 250kmh speed limit, but the autobahn is better suited

This might be a stupid question, but wouldn't accounting for short circuits defeat the purpose of a fuse? Edit: I might have misunderstood the second phrase completely. Think you meant that is the reason why the fuse should be there.

Well done. I have wanted to do this for the longest time, but never get around to it. Being a full fledged tech junky, there is just something so satisfying about mechanical dials. Try putting some vaseline on the gears to reduce sound, and maybe a sound deadening attempt with some foam? Just an idea.

It should just be a "straight" cable, meaning color should match eachs sides pinout.

Just look at mega fuses on takealot. Get your theoreticall max power draw, if you have a 5000w max draw, then 5000/52= ~95, get a step high around 125 then. 250 would just be overkill, if you will never reach its max

Over a month now, and still no refund. Originally I was offered a 245usd refund, to accept the 280ah over the 304s, which I obviously accepted. I had to follow up numerous times to get my refund, and was told on the 30th Nov they will only refund me 68usd. I had to eventually open a paypal dispute to get this resolved (still pending). A week ago, I was told they made calculation error, and they will now refund me 160usd. Still, not acceptable. From the arrangement, pickup, and refund, it has all been riddled with issues, and at this stage I am 100% sure that warranty on these cells will also be an issue since they cannot even do a simple refund they offered in the first place. If I were to do this all over again, I would have rather bought svolt batteries, for the same price, no hassles.

Yeah like I said, tuya is an iot platform SAAS just like aws, azure etc. I do highly doubt they sell data, since they are a listed company. Their servers in Europe for example, would have major consequences and heafy fines under GDPR laws. Local control of devices are seen as a security risk, as their protocols are made easily accessible for bad actors that do get into you wifi network. So the average user using iot devices that are open, on a simple network, are at high risk. If devices are preferred to be used on local networks, you need to isolate these device on it's own separate hidden SSID. These security measures aren't really talked about often. Getting back to why tuya would want to not have this, if Person A just bought a wifi plug, wanting to only use smart life, he definitely doesn't want to be vulnerable, and since tuyas platform is labeled as secure, it needs to keep changing and updating it's protocols. For the rest, they have developer accounts.

Tuya is just a framework, that developers (similiar to aws, just for iot devices). If you signup for a developer account, you can connect any of them to all apps and ha with ease https://iot.tuya.com/ But I do agree, my preference is sonoff over tuya based devices. But if sonoff doesn't have it, tuya is the best alternative. EDIT: Can also do this: https://github.com/rospogrigio/localtuya

Probably better to change the title to the brand of inverter this is related to.

Their apps PV is completely wrong since I installed mine. What I have noticed, is voltage is always 20v+ on pv1 and pv2. So I would assume there is a rounding error when this is passed to their cloud, and somehow there is amps also passed. In my case, I generate 1.5kw with no panels 😅 I completely dropped the app, and just use HA.

From what I recall, the ignition point is around 380-450c, but temps above 230c are both discouraged for epla and pla. Their "high flammability" comes from when introducing it to an open flame, and the only time that would ever happen, is if the place was on fire, or a battery had thermal runaway. The latter being more worrysome than pla metling away. That's just my thinking The idea is to have a fire suppression device, and maybe eventually I will go the route of steel casing. Here are some interesting info regarding plastics and electronics: PLA (Polylactic Acid): PLA is derived from natural sources and is generally less flammable than some traditional plastics. It has a lower risk of catching fire, but like any material, it can burn under certain conditions. Polyester (PET/PBT): Polyester is known to be flammable, and it can burn when exposed to an open flame. Polycarbonate (PC): Polycarbonate is flammable and can ignite when exposed to a flame or high heat. Nylon (Polyamide): Nylon is relatively more resistant to burning compared to some other plastics, but it can still catch fire. ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene): ABS is flammable and can burn under the right conditions. The last 4 are typically used in circuit breakers.

I have gone ahead an created an integration for the solis. Whilst the modbus did work, it sometimes created timeouts. The integration combines multiple registers into single calls, eliminating overhead, and also combining the entities into a single device. Repo: https://github.com/Pho3niX90/solis_modbus

You are just in time for the integration. I have created an easy to use hacs integration, which polls the modbus considerably less, and more frequently (5s) than the available solutions. So the dongle included will work perfectly fine (from the tests thusfar)

Yeah solis modbus works great, the datalogger that comes with it is more than enough. Depending on the firmware running, you might just need to ask for a firmware upgrade from support, which takes around 1hr in business hours, the SA support is luckily pretty speedy. If you already have HA running on hardware, then you need nothing else. I will be doing a more easy to use integration in the next week (open source), and then alternatively a cheap <=R500 hardware version (have to sign an NDA to get all protocols, so need to make it proprietary) Once you get it, and you need help with the integration, just send me a PM

Maybe it's worth while to see if this is still available?

The routing code, also known as the bank code, for Standard Chartered Bank in Hong Kong is 003.

The BMS is overpriced with Apexium, importing might be cheaper. Maybe speak to @cp69 as he imported the v3 cheaper than what apexium charges. If I were to do this again, I would do this. The DIY box also is overpriced for what you are getting, the majority of the cost probably lies in the PCB balancing, which is just unnecessary for something you will never see. The cells come with busbars, so no need to pucharse them. Terminals are around R150 on takealot, megafuse of around 225a is R180, double up in these 2 items if you really need more (if your inverter is 10K+)

I have been seeing the same. Before first charge the variance was around 10mv, but after around 2-3mv. I am going to do a seplos HA integration to better monitor the variance, and to pull the cycle counts and predictions with these load sheddings we are seeing.

I was charged around 700$ (R13000) for the apexium box. I have to say, the seplos/apex bms has the cells within 3mv balanced. I was actually planning on getting a v3, but the v2 seems to be doing what it should.

I am using ePla on a creality ender 3. The first supports would be done on draft with pla only for testing. PLA however, should be fine as the melting point is around 170c (ignition 450c), there should be no good reason for the packs to reach this temps, and if it does, it's probably already on fire. From my understanding, the thermal runnaway of lifepo would be enough to even melt aluminum. I am looking into fire suppression devices for safety, at this stage I am on the AFO balls. There will be compression with threaded rods. Will also do push/pull over the busbars, to cool things down. I might eventually go steel case as well if things do not turn out as I want it, time will tell.

I have noticed the svolts being extremely low priced recently. At the time I wasn't familiar with them. Perhaps the title should be changed to best bang for buck batteries.

Well spotted. I was assuming since it was a fivestar thread, that it would be related to only that. As far as I have seen, even our local brands have support issues. These days it's better to lear the tech, and self support. I myself went DIY because of this. I was hoping to get some info on these bats to assist individuals that would like to get a better bang for their buck, than paying twice this.

Well I cannot find anything, except inverters. To be fair, there are more sunsynk issues on here than fivestar. People tend to only post negatives to get support, never positives unless asked for. Ergo this thread.

Here is a link of one https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/362015-Anybody-own-a-Fivestar-battery Not a claim, they actually got support "Within 30 mins I had the problem acknowledged, the cause identified as software needing to be tweaked, and a technician allocated to come and fix."

I was looking at these svolt bats as well before going diy. Their prices makes diy basically null for the most part.