Garthox

I agree, but at least you have also been enjoying the use of those panels for majority of the year. I also feel that way when I recently got mine at a very good price but still a little more than these. Remember though, pricing could just as well continued to go up since you got yours (I am telling myself that to feel better haha)

That seems like a very good backup power option

About 3 weeks back I got my JA 550w panels from the powerforum store for R2257 each

As a precaution, I'd suggest you remove your email from the post, that is publicly visible and PM him instead.

I cannot help, if you're looking for a physical location in CT. But I have purchased (my sunsynk 5kw inverter and battery and now panels) from the Powerforum Store, and have had good service each time.

Hi Bobster, with reference to mounting hardware only. (also not an installer, so there could be good reasoning im not thinking of) I would suppose it depends on the type of bracket used (i.e. anti theft brackets, that may be damaged on removals?) But if it is the mid-clamp and end-clamp type with a capscrew. Surely these could be re-used, provided the panels are a similar thickness. I don't see the justification to replace all, if the above is true. When you say, everything, does this include the mounting brackets from the rails to the roof? Additional's may be needed to account for the weight difference between 325w panels vs 550w panels Perhaps the reasoning to adjust rails spacing is for the larger panel footprint, but even so, that hardware should be acceptable to some degree. P.s. after reading Scorps reply, if it is the whole system being upgraded, maybe there are other factors. I was reading your question applying to just the panels and their hardware.

While the idea itself would be cool, but rain is even more unpredictable than solar at least in PE. We get the sun up daily (sure there is overcast etc) but essentially you can bank on it being sunny for solar. Rather opt for wind, we have plenty of that going on 🤣 This got me, after getting to the end of the article lol "Christopher Plain is a Science Fiction and Fantasy novelist and Head Science Writer at The Debrief. "

Awesome, glad you came right

While there are situations having 2 strings (facing opposing directions - more so East/West) on 1 mppt can be beneficial this would be more the case of parallel. The way it is now all being 1 string, that shading on 1 side will severely hinder productivity. Easy fix would be split to separate inputs. Ideally you would reorient the SE facing panels more N facing. They would not be very productive at all facing southerly.

Damn, okay. I'm not too sure what could be the issue.

What sort of unit do you have, mine has a small 9v battery in it to "connect" and recharge. Assuming there is no loadshedding at the moment i.e. grid power is available to see. Another question, do you perhaps have a new install and this is the first month needing prepaid top-up (that's how i learnt my lesson). In my case, my plugs are all on the essential side of the inverter, so i have to switch to eskom only (bypassing the whole inverter) to be able for my specific unit to communicate with mains. Planning on a dedicated plug for this in future but until then this is my fix.

You'll be looking at that PV Input range (Second row down). 370v is the "optimal" and 500v is max, but everywhere I've read is to play it safe and aim for 450v max @WannabeSolarSparky explains it better than me here.

Has there been any comments on the effectiveness of this system. I like the design and am curious to hear any comments on how this has worked/held up etc

I searched google for F56DC_VOLT And the following thread came up, worth a read as a start

I agree, the more I'm thinking of this question raised by Richy, the better it is looking. I'd be keen to watch that video @Sc00bs

haha, oh geez, i skim read it and glanced right over the "seven" batteries. I was looking for a 7 Sorry for that 😂

Okay, interesting. I can see that happening yes. So reducing access to the strut/roof bracket join could slow that (i doubt it would prevent removal like you have mentioned)

Hi @GreenFields - just for my info What are these in reference to (maybe i'm being little dof and not piecing this together correctly) 7x37A = 259A. - What is the "7" here

Okay cool, so checking google quick we have; JA Solar 320W Poly 5BB Solar Panel - Assuming this one for the sake of the checks Weight: 22.4kg Depth: 40mm VMPP: 37.28V IMPP: 8.58A Voc: 46.12V 3 strings would be 8 panels in series each this gives: String voltage of 46.12v x 8 = 368.96v (within the MPPT input range) String amps would be 8.58A each string. But the three would be in series parallel, just not sure if they would all be on one MPPT or not. Giving 25.74A (I need to leave this comment Im making to be confirmed). But that 25.74A (is with in the online 26Amps limit from sunsynk) but if this was lowered in the firmware to 22 or 20A we just need to confirm that this is not too high that the inverter clips down This is assuming 3 strings are all parallel on one mppt, but they could be split 2 and 1. Something i didnt ask before, is the sytstem all installed, and you are checking. or planning ahead. If installed could you take a pic of the menu, showing the schematic (like the below) My understanding is you should be fine, but lets get a second opinion, from those more informed than me

To retrofit to an existing install, replacing the bolts would be easiest. For my dad's, I made use of the antitheft brackets that clip into the strut, but have added additional strips bolting panels to each other and bolts either side of them to stop the panels being able to slide out the end of the rails.

Can you spec the panels (Voc, Isc etc), and confirm if the plan is to run them in series/Parallel or a combination series-parallel The 8kw sunsynk can accept per MPPT 22Amps (2 mppt inputs) Edit: to add that the more critical parameter is the voltage range on the PV input. this should never be crossed. Whereas the amps would be clipped/limited by the sunsynk inverter. So going slightly above the limit (lets use 22amps) will not damage the inverter. Solar Input Max power input – 10400W Max V DC input – 370V (100V~500V) Max current input – 26A+26A - Some have reported this was lowered back to 22Amps or even 20 in an updated firmware. MPPTs – 2 MPPT Range – 125~425V 24 x 320W panels 7 x 37A = 259A (The amps would not be added if run in series only)

That is a very good use case you have explained there, and I can definitely now see the benefit doing it in such a way. More battery use and less eskom today, in anticipation for more solar recharge the next day. 🤓

What is the ultimate goal, because depending on your system and the reason behind this need, could the timer settings along with percentages not get this done in the sunsynk menu? I am asking this out loud to others, because maybe this could be possible. Alternatively Scoobs, suggestion is going to work for your needs

I am planning on doing this for my dads panels soon. Separate zone and siren with the wire fed through. Still looking into beams as well.

Hey MJL, maybe elaborate more on the system specs you have, as that would play a role. I'd say a home assistant type setup running to a sonoff/equivalent wifi switch would work.