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Wilfred

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Everything posted by Wilfred

  1. Very odd, do you have a switchover switch and it was perhaps on Eskom instead of Solar (I know it is stupid). But the scenario you are explaining is basically impossible if your inverter was running at the time. The power could only go out if your credits run out in midday if your inverter was either off or bypassed somehow.
  2. I think I know what you want to do. You want your inverter to stop supplying power and deplete the batteries further until there is sun again the following morning to start to charge. I have no idea if this can be done. How many batteries do you have on-site, won't it be better (I know it is expensive) to add another brick? In the event that you can not control the inverter somehow. I would imagine something like a switch, but I guess you will have to initiate the process from where you are. I know that my batteries sometimes run for 2+ hours on 22% and yes, they never go,
  3. The trick with the geyser is the size of the element. If it is only you and your wife, you can connect it to a timer (geyserwise). Depending on when you use the hot water, you can actually run that geyser only in daytime. I added a geyser to get away from night time water heating. My three kids shower or bath in the afternoon and me and the wife take the morning shift. Both geysers will typically be 60 degrees when the sun go down, one geyser feed hot water to the other, in the morning the one geyser will be in the 40's and the one feeding the house will be in the 50's, then the heating c
  4. You are using almost no power at all Solar is a "way of life" change in my opinion. In short (many more details behind the scenes) 1. The bulk of your demand should be shifted to daytime when you have sunlight to supply the power. It also don't mean that you can start each and every appliance you own at the same time during that time. 2. How much power do you need to get from sunset to sunrise? This is what you should base your battery bank on (in my opinion) so that you don't run out of power halfway through the night. Also the bigger your battery bank is the better your
  5. With load-shedding stage 3-8, we might run out of fuel as well.
  6. You might only be able to draw 50% out of those batteries.
  7. 1. Yes, max supply per inverter 5kva; 2. It will, but could be a little light, I have no experience with Gel batteries, I do know that depending on the age of your current batteries, you can not just add on, except for lithiums where you can add on over a period of time; 3. Is better to have the same inverters, more important is that the firmware of the inverters are the same; 4. You could be limited to around 4000w input per inverter depending on the inverter specs, you need to be within the Amp and Voltage parameters also.
  8. When the communication work properly, the low cut-off voltage do not matter, you can reset it to 45v if you want, within a couple mins the batteries will change that setting back to 47v. What happened in your scenario, the batteries probably went down to below 10% and shut off to protect against total discharge, or at whatever setting you had set it up to. Unfortunately, you have to manually reset/restart the batteries after that. I don't know how far they will go down but on 9th January while I was in hospital, we had a cloudy day, load-shedding, and me not able to tell someone to l
  9. The new model is called a "load-shedding relay", basically stop any power going to a certain appliance during certain times as well as when something else is drawing power. After that item, lets say primary geyser shuts of, it will supply power again within 15 minutes. Cost is over R 1 000, I have one installed, nice to have but not really needed if your timing/timers are working properly. If not, then you might see this as a need.
  10. Hi, Your system is running as it should, sometimes #2 will jump to 140A, it do not actually put 140A into the battery. No matter what your settings are, if you are set to PYL (#5), the system regulate itself. It should not reduce your cycles significantly. I have seen that when our house is less “busy” it take longer to turn a cycle though. I have not had a cycle turning faster than 24 hours (I however have 4 of those batteries). I unfortunately have some trouble now with my Pi freezing more often as I am not mobile enough to go and fiddle with it 10x a day :). I know
  11. Sorry for the late reply. I will for sure help you if I can.
  12. This post has totally gone haywire on my tablet, no more in date order, seems like you have sorted out your problem by replacing your inverter, sorry for my late reply, broke my leg a couple weeks ago and was out of the loop for a while.
  13. @viceroy you have done a lot of work yourself and it really looks neat and tidy. Well done.
  14. I will check on the email if the pin-out was the same
  15. Hi, I have used this on the US3000 and US2000, work on both batteries.
  16. I understand the ADD switch settings, but I think it is useless without the communication cable
  17. Do they have a page that explain how the cable should be configured?
  18. Your Pi should send the data to a server provided by Centurion solar, just ask them, the data is usually sent to Emoncms and you can use it with graphs, etc on you laptop or desktop pc or even on your tablet. Also maybe check, they should/could have send you an email with instructions.
  19. Hopefully they come back to you with the correct pin settings on the communication cable as well as the dip switch settings, no idea why the 3rd one should be set a certain way for a certain inverter, usually the 1st one is to slow down the bit rate.
  20. Try and contact the Chinese on their website, they are really helpful, give them your inverter model. They should come back to you within a day or two with the correct settings. If you want to try it and play it safe, bring setting 13 down with 1V. As well as settings 26 and 27. With setting 29 at 47V you would rather get a low voltage warning, you could bring that down with 1V too. The BMS on the battery should protect it very well. Setting 02 seems fine it is not close to what the Pylontech’s are and should be low enough not to over charge as well. I would do that until you get some f
  21. Usually it is just a spike, if you have monitoring software, you might not even pick it up that high on your graphs. I have seen +-4100 on my panels of 3780.
  22. Hi, As far as I know, Dyness is pretty much the same as Pylontech as they split off from Pylontech. Can you maybe post a picture of the ports you are using on the batteries? Error 61 is basically communication error, just set 05 back to USE for now. What settings did the dealer suggest for 02, 12, 13, 26, 27 and 29? These will just be setup manually without the communication cable. When the communication cable are sorted out, those settings will happen automatically.
  23. That micro USB stick I have might also work then, through the USB port.
  24. Ok, ow the male and female serial ports make sense with the RS232 cable.
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