HennieB84

If no power is flowing past the CT then it will indicate 0. If the power is flowing from the grid to the inverter then the value should be positive and if you are exporting then it should be negative. 

I am feeding back into the grid.

The way I see things as a non Sunsynk user is that on picture 2 you were exporting 1914W from the 2263W you were generating from PV. 
The last with the dishwasher on you were self using all that is generated so no power to export.
The CT will only show negative if you are using the grid power and it shows negative. Yours seems to show correctly.

If you can squeeze a bit more you won't be sorry if you go the 8kV Sunsynk route. I have been running for a year now with 2 Hubble 5.5 batteries. The geyser is heated by an auxiliary output as soon as the batteries are 100%. My wife doesn't have to worry about tripping the unit because it can handle four loads of under 2000W. Just a thought.

Issue has been sorted, there was a relay on the essential DB that was the problem. CT coil has to point towards the DB and inverter. On the 5kw, ins 3 and 4 are used for the coil. System is running well.

Issue has been sorted, there was a relay on the essential DB that was the problem. CT coil has to point towards the DB and inverter. On the 5kw, ins 3 and 4 are used for the coil. System is running well.

If you want to use your system optimally you definitely need a CT coil.  Your non-essential loads are effectively a domestic grid. If you set CT export limit to load (EDIT: double check this with a Sunsynk expert) you can power non-essentials like oven, geyser and whatever else you configured that way with excess solar production during the day.  I think the arrow must point to the inveterter, but if you get a negative readout just swop the leads on pins 5 and 6.

You don't need it, but it will show usage from grid. Arrow is with the flow thus towards db/inverter. Manual says 5 & 6. Can't remember if that was correct. Search on the forum, there was discussion on it. 

Hi there, 
I have installed a 5KW Sunsynk, with 5.1KW BSLBATT and 6 X 455w Longi panels in a home with average daily consumption of 15KW based in Johannesburg.
 
Looking for experienced advice on how best to setup the battery charging timing from solar and grid during the day.
 
Is it best to use the battery overnight, stopping at 25% and then in the morning use the grid and solar to get it back to 100% and maintain it there all day for the night and use any excess solar power generated during the day to feed back to the grid and "reverse" the cost of using the grid to charge the battery? Does it definitely reduce your Eskom bill? Secondary question from this: Is this not the best way to use less cycles from the battery rather than charging and discharging bits and pieces on the battery all day, rather use the grid for any excess demand and feedback using the solar when available to reduce the Eskom bill?
 
Or is it best to charge the battery up from 25% to 50% then to 75% to 100% in steps during the day depending on demand patterns, allowing the sun, when available to do the heavy lifting on charging the battery while supporting your demand loads? Here you will use more cycles of the battery as once it has reached the new SOC, you could use the battery if demand exceeds, before kicking into charging to the next level again.
 
Hope that makes sense.

Got the correct cable and it works, at last.

Got the correct cable and it works, at last.

What a painful exercise. Hopefully they can sort it out for you.

So after numerous mails and phone calls between the installer and Segen it's come to light that the BMS pin configuration from a Voltronic inverter to a Pylontech UP2500 is different from the cable that is used in conjunction with the US2000/3000 batteries.

Hennie yes the cable was included with the inverter when I bought it.

I found a solution to the problem courtesy of the supplier (solar-shop.co.za) so I thought it might be helpful to others with the same issue.
1. You have to use the cable supplied with the inverter.
2. Dip switches are 1000 on all batteries (assuming single group).
3. Cable is plugged into master battery RS485 port, not CAN.
Works beautifully.

Thanks, hopefully I can buy the cable somewhere or have it made up.

Yours might be too old to have been supplied the cable; if so, you may need to update firmware as well.
This is the cable you need, per Youda: