4 hours ago, shovelhead said:

Thanks @system32 - I also see that you had to discharge to 20% and back to 100%.  

Do I need to make each battery in turn the "master", run it down individually, then back to 100%? Or can I run all of them collectively down to 20% and then, collectively back to 100%?

When you speak about 20% and 100%, do you allow the (Sunsynk) inverter to do this, or do you need to use AGM settings?

I haven't had any issues with my SOC on my first 2 Hubbles, so wondering if I just need to do this on the new one, and perhaps wasting my time with the older two which are currently in service...🤔

Run the new one up to 100% and keep it there for a few days to balance the cells. 

Then when at 100% disconnect and get the older 2 to 100% and then connect all 3.

Ideal time this long weekend with no LS planned up to Sunday. 

This is what I will do 🤔

Edited March 27, 20242 yr by Scorp007

4 hours ago, shovelhead said:

Do I need to make each battery in turn the "master", run it down individually, then back to 100%? Or can I run all of them collectively down to 20% and then, collectively back to 100%?

This was a repeat of my instructions from Hubble:

"suggested that you discharge the batteries individually to 20% and once both batteries are on 20%, you may link them back up in parallel and let them charge together. This will ensure that both batteries balance from 20% to 100%. "

6 minutes ago, zsde said:

This was a repeat of my instructions from Hubble:

"suggested that you discharge the batteries individually to 20% and once both batteries are on 20%, you may link them back up in parallel and let them charge together. This will ensure that both batteries balance from 20% to 100%. "

I just did the bank of 4 in one go.

If power off/reboot an AM-2, it seems to forget the SoC and needs a recharge cycle to recalibrate.

Edited March 27, 20242 yr by system32

Had 1 of my second hand units get a bad cell,repaired under warranty. 2 Weeks from Drop-off at Gauteng center to Cape Town and back. Not bad

On 2024/01/11 at 9:51 PM, luwii said:

Thanks, this makes sense to me! Only thing I'm not sure about is what is the voltage level at the serial side. The adapters come in 3.3V or 5V.  Does anybody know what the Hubble AM5 (Pace BMS) expects?

Only 1.5 years later, but I was also looking for a cheaper cable solution to connect my Hubble AM2 to my PC, and was unable to find proper instructions to construct my own cable, so I did some research and decided to publish a working solution here.

You basically need any type of USB to TTL (serial) converter using the FTDI FT232R chip. There are many options available locally, but the most popular options are the cable version, where the chip is inside the USB connector, and the module with an on-board USB mini or type-C connector. The modules cost around R40 at the time of writing (https://make.net.za/product/4me3303/) or (https://www.communica.co.za/products/hkd-ft232rl-usb-to-serial-board?variant=50139935736108). Just make sure you get one with an original FTDI chip, because there is some issue between the cloned chip and the drivers. You can download the driver from https://ftdichip.com/drivers/

The Hubble has a standard RS232 port (-15v/+15V) and the USB to TTL converter or cable provides TTL levels (0V/5V), so you need a level shifter in-between. Fortunately that is also readily available locally at around R12 at the time of writing. (https://www.robotics.org.za/MX3232-MOD) or (https://www.diyelectronics.co.za/store/serial/638-max3232-rs-232-ttl-uart-serial-module-level-shifter.html)

Now you just have to check the pinouts on your USB to TTL converter cable or module and verify the orientation of the level converter module (marked with RS232 <-> TTL on the one side of the board) to ensure that you are connecting the 5V, GND, RX and TX pins to the correct end of the level shifter board. Then connect the GND, <- (IN) and -> (OUT) pins on the opposite end of the level shifter board to PINS 2, 3 and 4 of the RJ12 connecter and you're done. Refer to the attached images which clearly shows all the connections.

1 hour ago, superdiy said:

Only 1.5 years later, but I was also looking for a cheaper cable solution to connect my Hubble AM2 to my PC, and was unable to find proper instructions to construct my own cable, so I did some research and decided to publish a working solution here

@superdiy This should actually work for any battery with a Pace BMS, or not?

Edited June 18, 20251 yr by zsde

4 hours ago, superdiy said:

Only 1.5 years later, but I was also looking for a cheaper cable solution to connect my Hubble AM2 to my PC, and was unable to find proper instructions to construct my own cable, so I did some research and decided to publish a working solution here.

@superdiy Is it not possible to just use a USB to RS232 directly?

21 hours ago, zsde said:

@superdiy This should actually work for any battery with a Pace BMS, or not?

Yes, it will probably work for any battery with a RS232 (serial) port. You'll just have to verify the pinouts on the battery's serial port, because it might be different.

17 hours ago, DeonBez said:

@superdiy Is it not possible to just use a USB to RS232 directly?

Cannot say for sure. Just noticed that one reviewer on that product page mentioned that the cable does not work on Windows 11...

On 2025/06/19 at 3:53 PM, superdiy said:

Cannot say for sure. Just noticed that one reviewer on that product page mentioned that the cable does not work on Windows 11...

Only saw this reply now

It's entirely probable that it's a "pirate" cable with a blocked driver