Looks like you've flashed a wrong firmware version, which bricked the battery.

Luckily, there's integrated "boot-loader" that works even if the battery is bricked.

First of all, identify the correct version of firmware to be flashed and prepare the BIN file.

Then, flash it using the instructions below:

On 2023/02/02 at 10:26 PM, Youda said:

If you have a bricked battery, you can use Pylontech Upgrade Tool V1.0.9 from the Pylontech_Tools.zip to recover it via flashing a correct firmware. The process is as follows:

Connect the debug cable to this software and the battery (attention: at this time please do not switch the battery on), then
1. open the software, click Immediate Update.
2. Click Connect.
3. Click Browse to select the correct firmware.
4. Then click Program and switch on the battery by hard switch and the red soft start button immediately.
This will bring the battery back to normal.

When updating firmware, it's the best to turn-off all the batteries in the stack and remove all the LINK cables.
Then power-on a single battery and perform FW update on it.
Repeat for the remaining batteries in the stack.

10 minutes ago, Youda said:

Looks like you've flashed a wrong firmware version, which bricked the battery.

Luckily, there's integrated "boot-loader" that works even if the battery is bricked.

First of all, identify the correct version of firmware to be flashed and prepare the BIN file.

Then, flash it using the instructions below:

Thank you for your quick reply.

I used the zip file for the US3000C with 1.7 and 2.3 (the serial number of my Pylontech contains ...C3...).

As I understood I shall keep the zip, not extract it? So I did ....

BTW,

• A lot of GUI errors is caused by the locale of the computer not being set to EN-US.
• Since the first flash ended at 80%, it was clearly the wrong firmware. It's crucial to find a correct one first.
• When in boot-loader mode, flash the extracted BIN file directly, not ZIP.

 

The ZIP file method works great if the battery is not bricked. Once bricked, go with the BIN.

If you have US3000C battery with ...C3... in the serial number, then try to flash one of the attached BINs. Both are meant for the "New Chip":

Us_c_Nt_V1.7_Crc.bin US_E2_V2.2_Crc.bin

On 2024/11/17 at 3:19 PM, Tinbum said:

@Youda

Have you seen this thread?

 

They are shipping with FW 3.0 preloaded for the old chip? And even using the old chip for the new SerialNumbers, after C2? Hmm, what a mess 😮

 

1 hour ago, Youda said:

They are shipping with FW 3.0 preloaded for the old chip? And even using the old chip for the new SerialNumbers, after C2? Hmm, what a mess 😮

 

Seems like the old chip is now the new new chip.

19 hours ago, Youda said:

The ZIP file method works great if the battery is not bricked. Once bricked, go with the BIN.

If you have US3000C battery with ...C3... in the serial number, then try to flash one of the attached BINs. Both are meant for the "New Chip":

Us_c_Nt_V1.7_Crc.bin 222 kB · 0 downloads US_E2_V2.2_Crc.bin 222 kB · 0 downloads

 

OK, I took the v1.7. Is there big enhancement for the v2.2?

It worked! Thank you!

It was the zip file not working, with the bin it was no problem. Now I have to observe if the battery voltage is still kind of 'jumping' ...

 

Good to hear that it worked okay for you.

 

58 minutes ago, manInTheMiddle said:

OK, I took the v1.7. Is there big enhancement for the v2.2?

Since Pylontech is not publishing release notes for the FW, it's hard to say what are the improvements and if they are significant or not.

Version 1.7 for US3000C is the first one that is able to report cells with the lowest/highest voltage/temperature in the stack, while not exhibiting "cell overvoltage" bug. Should work perfectly with the Victron Cerbo and CAN comm, if you have it.

Personally, I am running version 1.7 on 8 batteries in a stack for years, connected to non-Victron inverters. And I'm not planning to upgrade the FW, since the setup works fine for me.

Some of the newer FW versions are relevant for UP5000, since they allow higher discharging current that was not possible on UP5000 hardware in the past. (BIN file for US2000C, US3000C and UP5000 is unified.)

Also, beware that version 2.2 might introduce some unwanted features, like the mandatory heartbeat - see the discussion led by @Tinbum on the previous pages.

 

Anyway - if your battery has a fluctuating voltage issue, I would suggest you to contact Pylontech support via email first, since the solution might be a bit more complicated than just a FW upgrade.

18 hours ago, Tinbum said:

Seems like the old chip is now the new new chip.

God bless that one can un-brick the battery bricked by the wrong FW.

Also, it's good to know that Pylontech FW can be downgraded. Something, that's less and less possible in the enterprise IT world.

11 minutes ago, Youda said:

Anyway - if your battery has a fluctuating voltage issue, I would suggest you to contact Pylontech support via email first, since the solution might be a bit more complicated than just a FW upgrade.

OK, good to know. I am just in the phase of analysis.

Yes it is connected to the CerboGX I wil check the status for a few days.

 

 

Hello everyone from Ukraine!
We have big problems with electricity in Ukraine now.
I bought myself 3xUS3000C (soft 2.4) at first, it turned out to be not enough, I bought us5000 (soft 2.0) more. I downloaded the program BattaryView 3.0.38 to see the data, I can't connect to the batteries! Please help!

Is it possible to connect us3000c and us5000 in parallel?

Yes no problem at all. Have the newest as the master.

Check what setting you have for showing decimals, numbers etc. Think it should be US but search batteryview on here and you will find similar errors.

21 minutes ago, Tinbum said:

Да, вообще никаких проблем. Возьмите новейший как мастер.

Проверьте, какие настройки у вас установлены для отображения десятичных знаков, чисел и т. д. Думаю, это должны быть США, но выполните поиск по запросу batteryview здесь, и вы найдете похожие ошибки.

Thank you very much for your answer!
Another question, is it worth updating us3000c from firmware 2.4 to 2.8, I saw there is already 2.9... ?

4 minutes ago, taranvv said:

Thank you very much for your answer!
Another question, is it worth updating us3000c from firmware 2.4 to 2.8, I saw there is already 2.9... ?

I would leave well alone unless you have a problem.

11 minutes ago, Tinbum said:

I would leave well alone unless you have a problem.

the best is the enemy of the good !!!

 

This is the only forum where I found answers to my questions! Thank you all!

Edited December 28, 20241 yr by taranvv

21 minutes ago, taranvv said:

the best is the enemy of the good !!!

 

This is the only forum where I found answers to my questions! Thank you all!

It's a pleasure to help you. I can't imagine what you have to go through.

Hi taranvv

Glad to see you could find help on this site.

I wish all the best for you and your countryman and woman in your fight against that shit head in moscow.

All the best for the new year.

Greetings!

Bought 5x US5000 units (non 1C), came as a bunch of different firmwares - v1.3, v1.9 and v2.0.
All units were manufactured in 2024, serial numbers are Y240XXXC5XXXXXXX.

Is there any way to download that v2.0 to update them all or maybe somebody can share this or newer version?

So called "support" replies with a common "not needed" answer.

Hi @Eutechnyx

I'd like to help you, but for the US5000 the latest FW that I have is:

• US5000_V1.4_Crc.bin (for old chip)
• US_E3_V1.7_Crc.bin (for new chip)

Never saw 1.9 and 2.0 file

Anyway, should you find a suitable FW update anywhere else, just be sure to double-check what it is really intended for. Especially keep in mind that US5000 and UP5000 have a DIFFERENT FW.

 

BTW:

Pylontech is right, there's no need to upgrade the FW if everything is running okay. Just put the battery with the new chip and newest FW as the master and you should be good.

Then, try to charge the battery stack few times and discharge it to a 20% SOC too. If that will work, you are OK. On the other hand, if the discharging stops before you reach 20%, then you have a reason for Pylontech support to send you an update Right?

 

7 minutes ago, Youda said:

Hi @Eutechnyx

I'd like to help you, but for the US5000 the latest FW that I have is:

• US5000_V1.4_Crc.bin (for old chip)
• US_E3_V1.7_Crc.bin (for new chip)

Never saw 1.9 and 2.0 file

Anyway, should you find a suitable FW update anywhere else, just be sure to double-check what it is really intended for. Especially keep in mind that US5000 and UP5000 have a DIFFERENT FW.

 

BTW:

Pylontech is right, there's no need to upgrade the FW if everything is running okay. Just put the battery with the new chip and newest FW as the master and you should be good.

Then, try to charge the battery stack few times and discharge it to a 20% SOC too. If that will work, you are OK. On the other hand, if the discharging stops before you reach 20%, then you have a reason for Pylontech support to send you an update Right?

 

Also be carefull as we suspect some firmware may require inverter communication and their may also  be a new 'new chip' hardware version.

 Automatic Transfer Switch - meltdown

So, after a couple of years one of my ATS melted down. It was rated for 100A Chinese, so I would suggest that it can handle 32A European - well, I was wrong

At first I was thinking that the internal contact burned, but after a dissection I found out that there was probably a high resistance on the screw terminal. (See how black is the copper wire under R terminal.) That caused excessive heating and meltdown. In the end, internal contact became so loose and angled that it started to burn too.

 

As you can see on the first photo, there were 2 wires under each square washer. Wires were stranded, 6mm2 each, with crimped ferrule. The left wire is the input from the grid, the right one is going back to the floor heating that is 2260W (roughly 10A) as it makes no sense to power this from PV during our winters. The same logic applies to S (2430W) and T (2430W) terminals. Terminals on the top are the input from the PV system.

 

When I tried to remove wires, the ferrule stayed in the spot, as it was welded in the plastic:

 

 

Edited January 8, 20251 yr by Youda

Internal contact became angled and burned too:

 

Two yellow spots on the opposite side of the ATS hit my eye too:

Found out that the cause was the heat from two resistors that have no other purpose than to feed the indication LEDs. That's a sign of imperfect design, I would say:

 

Anyway, I have two of these ATS in my setup, so I've already ordered a replacement. This time I went for a new version of the product that has better terminals. On the other side, this version is rated for Chinese 63A only, so I am pretty curious what the real ampacity would be

 

Let's see how this will work:

 

Edited January 8, 20251 yr by Youda

Lessons learned:

1) If you have an ATS like this in you system, even though the higher current is just passing over the terminals and not via switched contact, check the terminals from time to time.

2) This type of screw terminals with square washers kinda sucks.

 

Partial disassembly:

 

Edited January 8, 20251 yr by Youda

1 hour ago, Youda said:

Let's see how this will work:

I have 2 of these (single phase version) on my new db, one for the stove to switch between grid and solar and one still unused/undecided.
They seem a bit better than the big bulky ones from the same brand, time will tell what the quality is like 🙃

Edited January 8, 20251 yr by WannabeSolarSparky

I don't see any signs of arc quenching plates in your ATS. Exactly the same as in that Geya you ordered as a replacement. I've tried almost all of them that you can buy on the marketplaces, and here is what i think...

These Geya, Tomzn, EARU ATS's are crap. No matter what brand is printed on the housing, if their shape is the same as in my photos - they're all the same inside. The static contact plates are very thin, the switching contact is made by flattening the core to form contact pads, there is no arc-extinguishing chamber (only a thin toothed plate that can only prevent the case from melting and nothing else). I don't understand how they withstand those 8000 switching operations that is specified in their manual.

The only acceptable quality ones at this moment are ManHua (also sold under other brand, like ZJMNFU on Tao) if you want a 1-phase ATS and a CSQ for a 3-phase setup. I'll attach some internal photos...

The newer ManHua units have a Nuvoton MCU inside them to control the ATS, not just a simple dumb relay - the result is lightning fast switching time, source priority can be set by the switch. Also note the huge arc chamber, the thickness of the contact plates, and the overall quality of the parts...

There are many similar type ATS like that CSQ I've posted here, but some of them does not include arc quenching plates in the models below 100A, like 63A or less (so always order the highest rated unit in the lineup, whether you will be using it at 100A+ or not). I also noticed a strange mounting configuration of the internal A/B source detection microswitches inside some of them, which can cause them to wear out over time easily because they are directly mounted to contact the shaft (last picture, notice the difference of this part in the CSQ).

Edited January 9, 20251 yr by Eutechnyx