Since I have installed my own Solar System (Deye 8kw, 24 Canadian Panels (10360w) and 2 x Dyness 5200 batteries), I wanted to ensure I was compliant by obtaining a CoC.

I have previously obtained a CoC for my Eskom Board, including my Inverter installation, but that was before I installed Solar and from what I understand, you need a CoC for all Solar installations as well.

So, I contacted a guy who is apparently a certified/registered electrician and is also Solar certified (has a PV green card) and provides Solar CoC’s, and according to him, the ECA Rules (Electrical Contractors Association) has the following requirements:

https://ecasa.co.za/technical/pv-installers-must-be-electrical-contractors/

·         AC and DC cannot run in the same conduit

·         All MCB’s (Micro Circuit Breakers) must be correctly sized for both Grid & Load

·         Each Solar Installation must have a separate Earth spike which must read less than 10 ohms (if not then add a 2^nd or 3^rd spike approx. 1m away and join them) - The DC DB / Combiner box / Solar Panels would be connected to this newly installed earth spike

·         Every Panel must be joined to the next panel by 6mm earth wire (you cannot just earth the Rails)

·         You must run the positive (Red) wires in a separate conduit and must include the earth in that conduit. If you have multiple strings and have separate conduit for each strings positive wire, then you must include the earth wire in each conduit.

·         Within the Combiner Box, you need to fit Bootlace Ferrules at the end of each Solar wire (stranded wire). This is required for both single wires (single wire bootlace ferrule) and where 2 wires are going into a MCB (twin wire bootlace ferrule)

·         For your Inverter installation (Grid and Load connections), you cannot just use the earth wire (normally a single copper wire) contained within the flat Twin & Earth wire, as this is normally thinner than the actual load carrying wires (e.g. 6mm or 10mm). To be compliant you would need to run a separate earth, which is the same thickness as the current carrying wires, between your Main DB board as well as your Essential DB board.

·         For your Inverter connections (Grid & Load), the earth of the Load input (in the inverter) must be bridged (I presume bridged to the Grid earth). From what I was told, if you do not do this you may have a floating voltage between Neutral & Earth especially prevalent during load shedding)

·         Your Inverter casing must be earthed to this same earth

·         Your batteries must also be earthed to this same earth

 

As a learning to myself (and others reading this post), I would like to ask the forum if the above is correct and if there are any other requirements that have been omitted?

Thank You

In my opinion (for what it is worth), I think mostly correct:

AC and DC cannot run in the same conduit

Correct. DC and DC also can not run in the same conduit, unless all cables are rated to the highest voltage in the conduit.

All MCB’s (Micro Circuit Breakers) must be correctly sized for both Grid & Load

Correct. If the inverter manual specifies breaker size, you must never go higher than that, although you can go lower. Must also never be higher than the wire rating.

Each Solar Installation must have a separate Earth spike which must read less than 10 ohms (if not then add a 2^nd or 3^rd spike approx. 1m away and join them) - The DC DB / Combiner box / Solar Panels would be connected to this newly installed earth spike

Only required if the inverter requires this (depends on the type of internal surge protection).

Every Panel must be joined to the next panel by 6mm earth wire (you cannot just earth the Rails)

Only if required by the rail or panel manufacturer, otherwise the rails (aluminium rails only - other materials may be different) meet all the legal requirements of earth conductors.

You must run the positive (Red) wires in a separate conduit and must include the earth in that conduit. If you have multiple strings and have separate conduit for each strings positive wire, then you must include the earth wire in each conduit.

Never seen anything like this before?

Within the Combiner Box, you need to fit Bootlace Ferrules at the end of each Solar wire (stranded wire). This is required for both single wires (single wire bootlace ferrule) and where 2 wires are going into a MCB (twin wire bootlace ferrule)

As far as I can tell, not yet a legal requirement in SA, but will be shortly, and is a really good idea.

For your Inverter installation (Grid and Load connections), you cannot just use the earth wire (normally a single copper wire) contained within the flat Twin & Earth wire, as this is normally thinner than the actual load carrying wires (e.g. 6mm or 10mm). To be compliant you would need to run a separate earth, which is the same thickness as the current carrying wires, between your Main DB board as well as your Essential DB board.

Sort-of correct. For fixed installation, the earth must be min 10mm² copper - but not necessarily the same size as the phase conductor.

For your Inverter connections (Grid & Load), the earth of the Load input (in the inverter) must be bridged (I presume bridged to the Grid earth). From what I was told, if you do not do this you may have a floating voltage between Neutral & Earth especially prevalent during load shedding)

Must definitely be bonded - but using a bonding relay (some say to use a permanent bond, but this seems to be against SANS regs - many arguments about this).

Your Inverter casing must be earthed to this same earth

Correct

Your batteries must also be earthed to this same earth

Correct

 

1 hour ago, JustinSchoeman said:

Your batteries must also be earthed to this same earth

Would love to get other people's opinions on this one. Is this standard practice?
I've encountered opinions which state to not earth the battery. Ok, so then if you earth the battery. Do you earth the metal casing? or how do people earth their batteries? Thank you.

Edited December 21, 20232 yr by VicB7

Quote

7.12.7 Additional requirements for photovoltaic (PV) and similar
installations that provide a supply as an alternative to the main supply

...

7.12.7.6 If applicable, all exposed conductive parts may require earthing as
prescribed in 6.12.3.

 

Also:

Quote

7.15.2 Earthing
Earthing and bonding of power supply circuits for d.c. installations shall
comply with the following requirements:
a) the "O V" (earth) polarity of each d.c. power system of a
telecommunication system shall be bonded with a solid connection to an
earthing terminal at the point of supply of the d.c. power plant, which shall
be the main earthing terminal;
b) if an earth electrode is required, it shall comply with the requirements of
SANS 1063, be installed in accordance with SANS 10199 and be bonded
to the main earthing terminal of the electrical installation;
c) the main earthing terminal shall be bonded to the consumer's earth
terminal (see also 6.11);
d) the common bonding network shall be bonded to the main earthing
terminal at least at one point;
e) all accessible conductive parts of the installation (rectifier cabinets,
equipment racks and cabinets, enclosures, grids, wire-ways, etc.) shall be
bonded to the common bonding network; and

...

Pretty much, if it is metal, and it is exposed, it must be earthed - that applies to pretty much everything in SANS 10142-1.

Correct - the casing must be earth'd (example in Picture)

 

Edited January 5, 20242 yr by Marcodp

Thank you to everyone for good feedback and comments received.

Disclaimer - the below feedback/item list was received for my installation, and is how I was assessed during December 2023 (It is recommended that one always check with the authorised/approved assessor for what applies to your installation)

So, as mentioned, I have been assessed and have received my Solar CoC - I thought it would be good to share some of the items that were checked by the assessor (there may have been others, but these are the ones I asked about and made notes on)

Firstly, during the discussion with the Assessor, I picked up that:

• Regulations do change from time to time (so best to check with the CoC assessor before asking to be assessed)
• The Solar CoC works in conjunction with an Electrical CoC (you do need both) - he asked me for my electrical CoC and referenced the Electrical CoC number on Solar CoC certificate.
• Any changes to the installation, after a CoC is issued, render the CoC void (this applies to both the Solar & Electrical)

Herewith some of the items checked (that I asked about during the assessment)

1. AC and DC cannot run in the same conduit (if they do, either the AC or DC lines must be in Sprag conduit)
2. All MCB’s (Micro Circuit Breakers) must be correctly sized for both Grid & Load
3. Both Main and Essential DB boards must be clearly marked and have the correct 'warning' labels and/or stickers
4. The Solar Installation must have a separate Earth spike which must read less than 10 ohms (depending on the soil composition, you may need to add a 2^nd or 3^rd spike approx. 1m away and join them / the harder the ground the more likely you will be ok.....if the ground is "sand" the less likely you will achieve the required 10 ohms) - The DC DB / Combiner box / Solar Panels would be connected to this newly installed earth spike.
5. Every Panel must be joined to the next panel by a 6mm earth wire (you cannot just earth the Rails)
6. No Solar wires can touch the roof (i.e. solar panel wires) - all loose wires must be cable-tied to the panels or rails.
7. Where the wires (from the solar panels) enter the roof, the wires need to be mechanically protected (so they do not move and/or chafe) 
8. For Solar panels, you should run the positive (Red) wires in a separate conduit and must include the earth in that conduit. If you have multiple strings and have separate conduit for each strings positive wire, then you must include the earth wire in each conduit.
9. Within the Combiner Box, you need to fit Bootlace Ferrules at the end of each Solar wire (stranded wire). This is required for both single wires (single wire bootlace ferrule) and where 2 wires are going into a MCB (twin wire bootlace ferrule)
10. For your Inverter installation (Grid and Load connections), you cannot just use the earth wire (normally a single copper wire) contained within the flat Twin & Earth wire, as this is normally thinner than the actual load carrying wires (e.g. 6mm or 10mm). To be compliant you would need to run a separate earth, which is the same thickness as the "current carrying" wires, between your Main DB board as well as your Essential DB board.
11. Inverter dependent (I have a Deye), for your Inverter connections (Grid & Load), the earth of the Load input (in the inverter) must be bridged. As mentioned in a previous post, from what I was told, if you do not do this you may have a floating voltage between Neutral & Earth especially prevalent during load shedding)
12. Your Inverter casing must be earthed to this same earth
13. Your batteries must also be earthed to this same earth
14. You do not need both a Battery Isolator and Battery Fuses (I have both). You can choose to have only the Battery Fuses but these need to be approx. 1.5m above the ground (this is for Child safety as the fuses can be pulled open)

I have added some pics of the Bootlace ferrules used, the combiner box and marked DB boards.

I hope you find this information useful as I really had no clue what to expect, and could find very little information online, before calling the Assessor (so I had some work to do before he actually came out) 🙂

 

 

 

 

Edited January 5, 20242 yr by Marcodp
Spelling and addition of photos

On 2023/12/21 at 10:54 AM, Marcodp said:

You must run the positive (Red) wires in a separate conduit and must include the earth in that conduit. If you have multiple strings and have separate conduit for each strings positive wire, then you must include the earth wire in each conduit.

This is also new to me, not sure if someone might have the actual SANS Regulation to confirm this. The problem with this is I have seen a new twin type solar cable with positive and negative pvc joined together in one cable. I haven't used it myself but saw it at a solar supplier and thought it's not a bad idea, will make pulling wires easier. So this twin solar cable would be a problem and not allowed to be used if this is a regulation is fact. 

On 2023/12/21 at 10:54 AM, Marcodp said:

As a learning to myself (and others reading this post), I would like to ask the forum if the above is correct and if there are any other requirements that have been omitted?

I am also still learning new techniques and tricks everyday although I have done 100's of COC's in my life. I have seen most installers use a single 4core cable with seperate earth to and from the inverter. I have decided against it in my own installations and install two separate cables because otherwise you have two separate supplies in one cable, inverter power and eskom power in one cable which does not seem right with a shared earth conductor. Installing two seperate cables also eliminates the earth problem, because each supply ghan has its own earth.  What's the thought on this?

Also Bonding relay, Where is the best place to install this. I normally install a separate little 4way DB but think it creates too much clutter and want to install the bonding relay in the AC DB, what's the thought on this?

24 minutes ago, Gerrie said:

I am also still learning new techniques and tricks everyday although I have done 100's of COC's in my life. I have seen most installers use a single 4core cable with seperate earth to and from the inverter. I have decided against it in my own installations and install two separate cables because otherwise you have two separate supplies in one cable, inverter power and eskom power in one cable which does not seem right with a shared earth conductor. Installing two seperate cables also eliminates the earth problem, because each supply ghan has its own earth.  What's the thought on this?

Also Bonding relay, Where is the best place to install this. I normally install a separate little 4way DB but think it creates too much clutter and want to install the bonding relay in the AC DB, what's the thought on this?

Both the supply cables MUST be on the same earth as there is just one earth and all other earth's to be connected to this earth. That is why we have to do a earth continuity test from all equipment and sockets. 

May be I miss something why it is a no go. 

2 minutes ago, Scorp007 said:

Both the supply cables MUST be on the same earth as there is just one earth and all other earth's to be connected to this earth.

I agree the earth's should all be bonded to have the same potential, but every circuit should have its own earth conductor.

On 2023/12/21 at 10:54 AM, Marcodp said:

S

 

As a learning to myself (and others reading this post), I would like to ask the forum if the above is correct and if there are any other requirements that have been omitted?

Thank You

I am also a little bit confused. I approach the insurance people and they stated,  that I do not need a COC if the inverter is not connected to the wall and the DB board, and is lose standing. But I have solar panels 6 off them, and they are connected. What rules should be applicable to my installation.? I like to thank you for your information about the cabling etc. I have an engineering certificate about the weight etc of the panels. What should I apply further for my installation.  I am aware of the consequences of,  if I earth the panels and am looking for a solution that surges and strikes created by a lightning strike can be properly exposed of without that I attract lightning strikes. 

Anybody has an opinion? thanks if you do have. 

 

BertKu

@BertKu, this is an interesting question and I suggest you talk to someone who has a PV green card, knows the regulations/requirements and issues CoC's.

Mindful that you always want to be compliant with the regulator, you also (primarily) want to ensure that if something goes wrong your insurance company will pay you out. If they (your insurance company) say you do not require a CoC, ask them to send you that confirmation in writing and store this safely. My concern is not the trolley inverter, as I have never heard of a CoC being required for a trolley inverter (I could be wrong) but the solar panels which are fixed to your roof and the connection to your trolley inverter - if something unfortunate had to happen (e.g. you had a lightning strike or a short or some other unfortunate event) which causes damage to either the panels, your roof or your home, will your insurance company pay you out, or will they look for a reason not to pay?

It's a very interesting point that you have raised and hopefully someone on the forum has the correct answer but, in the meantime, ask your insurer for a formal response to your installation and confirmation that you will be covered as this may be specific to the insurer.

Anyone else got any ideas/thoughts?

14 hours ago, BertKu said:

Anybody has an opinion? thanks if you do have. 

In my opinion the little stand alone trolley does not require a COC, because it just plugs into a wall socket and feed directly to the appliances with plugs. The moment you permanently connect cables to the Installation, you need a COC to comply WIT SANS. 

The same with solar panels, are they just free standing outside and plugged into the trolley or are they fixed to the building. The moment they are fixed you need to consider a COC because it now becomes a permanent installation and require all the proper DC - DB safety requirements like earthing, fuses, isolators and surge protection, labeling etc.

I have done trolley installs and I do them exactly as a normal solar inverter installation connected to the DB feeding the critical loads. The solar panels are mounted as normsl on the roof with DC DB protection, earth rod and the whole lot for COC. Compliance.

 

On 2024/05/10 at 2:24 AM, Gerrie said:

In my opinion the little stand alone trolley does not require a COC, because it just plugs into a wall socket and feed directly to the appliances with plugs. The moment you permanently connect cables to the Installation, you need a COC to comply WIT SANS. 

The same with solar panels, are they just free standing outside and plugged into the trolley or are they fixed to the building. The moment they are fixed you need to consider a COC because it now becomes a permanent installation and require all the proper DC - DB safety requirements like earthing, fuses, isolators and surge protection, labeling etc.

I have done trolley installs and I do them exactly as a normal solar inverter installation connected to the DB feeding the critical loads. The solar panels are mounted as normal on the roof with DC DB protection, earth rod and the whole lot for COC. Compliance.

 

Thank you all,  who replied to my question, really appreciated. 

Sorry to jump in here, there seems to be a lot of debate on this topic, a few days ago we got a solar installer out to come and check the inverters are optimally configured and we have enough panels etc and the result was eye opening to say the least. 
 

Essentially the installer said he would not done a coc on our setup and listed the following issues:

1) No surge protection in DC DB Board

2) No surge protection in AC isolators (even though main db board has surge protection)

3) Each battery didn’t have a fuse

4) Cables wrong length

5) all cables running in a single trunking

6) Cables incorrectly sized

7) Breakers on AC side to big (63a and should be 40a)

8)Batteries are not going to a busbar

Now, this was all cool. We then got another installer out who agreed with he first installer with the exception of point 3 - all batteries should have a separate fuse before going into the main fuse, this point he said is not necessary and just adds extra cost.

However, speaking to another installer and going through the compliance group on Facebook it is stated that each battery needs its own fuse.  

Now according to what I have seen in the SANS 10142-1:2021 snippet that was sent states that the supply from each inverter, battery arrangement and PV Panel constitutes a supply, and therefore require arrangements similar to points of supply, which requires a disconnect switch. To comply with section 7.12.5. 

now does this mean that all batteries need a single disconnect or that each battery needs a disconnect? 
 

I am confused and need to understand if this is legal or just a guideline. 

Edited May 21, 20242 yr by Mercadian

In my humble opinion, If the batteries are going to a busbar, then each battery would have its own fuse between the battery and the busbar and then between the busbar and the inverter you could place a DC cut-off switch as an option.

If the batteries are connected in parallel, then a single fuse should suffice on the Positive line (some installers place a fuse on the positive & negative)

The pics below serve as reference:

 

These come from the Dyness battery manual but should be the same for most batteries:

Dyness-5-12kWh-BX51100-Lithiumion-Battery-UserManual.pdf (sunkissedsolar.co.za)

 

Herewith a pic of Hubble AM-5:

AM-5 Hubble Battery | LFP Prismatic | Hubble Lithium (hubbleenergy.com)

 

 

I forgot to add that one should be mindful that Fuses serve multiple purposes - they are there to protect the Inverter, the batteries and the actual WIRE.

Without them any short circuit / excessive current or mismatched loads could potentially cause equipment damage or even a fire.

Be Mindful that batteries installed in parallel maintain the voltage (V) but increase current (A) while batteries installed in series increase Voltage (V) and maintain current (A).

Let's presume that most home installations nowadays utilise lithium batteries which are installed in parallel (see pics in earlier post) and therefore maintain their voltage and increase current for each battery installed. 

This means that in an average 5kw / 8kw Inverter installation with a single 4.8/5.1kw battery installed would generally be 48v/100A, and if 2 batteries are installed this increases to 48V/200A or if 3 batteries are installed this would be 48V/300A etc.

If you are unsure, you can always use the formula: Watts(W) = Volts (V) x Current/Amps (A)

Presuming the batteries are either 0.5c or 1c, the charge/discharge rates COULD be configured as follows:

0.5c batteries (in parallel):

• 1 x 5.1kw battery - 50A
• 2 x 5.1 kw batteries - 100A
• 3 x 5.1kw batteries - 150A

1c Batteries: (In Parallel)

• 1 x 5.1kw battery - 100A
• 2 x 5.1kw battery - 200A
• 3 x 5.1kw battery - 300A

The big PROBLEM is most Solar wire (depending on the thickness which could be 16mm, 25mm/ 35mm) may only be rated somewhere between 80A to 180A. (Specs do change depending on the type and quality of the DC/Battery cable so best to check what the rating is when/before you purchase).

The point here is if you set your charge/discharge rates at a higher rating that the cable is capable of, you are going to have trouble.

The same for the fuses - make sure the fuses have a rating sufficient to protect the WIRE and the battery and that the Fuse is capable of supporting the Charge/Discharge rate else the fuse will either pop or melt.

To bypass all these potential pitfalls, one could just configure the charge/discharge rates at 100A and be done with it - yes, the batteries would take longer to charge but, in most cases, this may not be an issue.

 

I hope someone can help me.... I have a COC , which I originally received for the solar system with two lithium batteries, but this was changed to one battery twice the size in order to solve problems with the inverter cutting out when nighttime load shedding was happening. I asked the installer a new CoC and was told that the CoC does not mention the battery or batteries so the original CoC is still valid. When I asked the insurers to confirm that the CoC was valid they declined to do so and informed me that it was my responsibility to establish the validity of the CoC. This suggests to me that in the event of a claim there would be issues with the CoC. What do I do in this instance

 

12 hours ago, El-marie said:

I hope someone can help me.... I have a COC , which I originally received for the solar system with two lithium batteries, but this was changed to one battery twice the size in order to solve problems with the inverter cutting out when nighttime load shedding was happening. I asked the installer a new CoC and was told that the CoC does not mention the battery or batteries so the original CoC is still valid. When I asked the insurers to confirm that the CoC was valid they declined to do so and informed me that it was my responsibility to establish the validity of the CoC. This suggests to me that in the event of a claim there would be issues with the CoC. What do I do in this instance

 

Let's hope @TaliaB finds the time to give the correct answer. 

13 hours ago, El-marie said:

I hope someone can help me.... I have a COC , which I originally received for the solar system with two lithium batteries, but this was changed to one battery twice the size in order to solve problems with the inverter cutting out when nighttime load shedding was happening. I asked the installer a new CoC and was told that the CoC does not mention the battery or batteries so the original CoC is still valid. When I asked the insurers to confirm that the CoC was valid they declined to do so and informed me that it was my responsibility to establish the validity of the CoC. This suggests to me that in the event of a claim there would be issues with the CoC. What do I do in this instance

 

Your electrician did issue you a CoC for the installation but the law states that “any addition or alteration” to your electrical installation requires a CoC supplement to be issued. So ask the electrician to issue you a supplement to your original CoC stating the the battery configuration was changed.

Good day every one

Is it compulsory to supply a COC on solar installation?

If the client refuse to pay for a COC?

On 2025/01/02 at 3:38 PM, F007 said:

Good day every one

Is it compulsory to supply a COC on solar installation?

If the client refuse to pay for a COC?

Then don't issue it. 

An often overlooked part of the regs is:

So, basically, you must provide a CoC for any installation work you do, and it would be reasonable for the client to assume that this was included in the quote.

This is what separates the Cowboys from the real proper operators...