Nexuss

Cable kit now added to the prices and updated

The "power" column in the system work mode 1. This will set charging and discharging watts. i set mine to 1000w through the night to prevent draining the battery quickly by larger loads.

Also a Sunsynk 5kW yes.

I have an ESP32 which sends all the inverter info to Home Assistant. That same ESP32 is attached to PWM pins of the fans. The ESP32 talks to Home Assistant to get the AC temp and works with that number as its base i.e. you set the low and high temp thresholds ( you make it anything that suits you ), the fans spin slower at lower temps, and ramp up as the inverter temp increases.

ESP32 powered by a 5V adapter
Fans powered by a 12V adapter ( which also powers a Wi-Fi access point, so it was there already )
Grounds of both power supplies are tied together via the ESP32 ( very NB )
To be clear, you can make something like this a standalone by adding a local temperature probe instead of getting the info from the inverter. I have such a setup cooling some other kit in a tight space

You wont see the CT coil in the flow diagram when "limit to load" is ticked, Since you have everything on the load side of the inverter you can leave it as is. Only thing i would change is the grid tricle feed to 0 watts and on the work mode screen set the SOC much lower . As it is now you will only use 20% of the battery, unless there is a grid failure/loadshedding. I would set them all at 40% as previously mentioned. I have mine set to gradually go down to 10% to get maximum battery utilization. Also tick "Priority load" so the load is priority above battery (battery wil charge with the solar thats left after servicing the load) . Currently it will charge battery first meaning you will use grid till you reach the set SOC in work mode timer.

Personal opinion. I would just set the charge/discharge amps to the higher value, 185A.
My thinking is, on a normal day your charge rate will in any case be limited by the approx 5kW of installed solar power (panel specs TBC), so the amps will naturally top out at around 100A at mid-day (less baseload) and be generally gentle on the batteries.
But whenever you choose a grid-charge, you might want to replenish the batteries quickly, like in preparing for loadshedding, and then you might not want to take half the day or longer to do the charge when you could do it in 2 hrs. Rough thumbsucks. As long as the charge rate of 0.4C - 0.5C is then still within the manufacturer's recommendation and the installed wiring, etc supports it.

On the battery setup , the charging amps is set way too low for your massive battery bank, this is what is causing you to lose out on power , i would set the charge current at 100-120A .
Next on the system mode screen tick use timer and set the soc on 40% for all lines . This will make sure you actually use your batteries. Also tick "signal island mode" to make sure it does the N-E bonding if there is no hard bond .
It does not seem like he installer was familiar with this inverter so i would make sure the CT coil placement is correct and also the settings on the second work mode screen so you are feeding back to non essentials if there are any .
Give some pictures from the other work mode screen and the Li BMS screen please.
Also post a graph of both solar stings voltage through a typical day , 4 panels might be too little voltage to keep the MPPT running properly so that could also make you lose power.

One more thing - on the System screen above, you need to check the "Use Timer" tickbox, else this time control feature will not work.

Not worth fitting these mounts at all. My panels are mounted with a 10 degree tilt facing SW. Not an ideal orientation but thats how the garage roofs are slopped. They are almost flat basically. I dont have water ingress and am off-grid. He would need 2 of those supports that cost as much as 1 Panel. Waste of money in my opinion. I am yet to see any datasheet say mounting them flat or at a slight angle with damage the structure of the panel.
I think they were just not mounted properly (too close to the end as one user mentioned) and the glass cracked/was defective from the get go. Its not the angle/slope. Do you guys know how hot the surface of a panel gets? After rain the water evaporates very quickly. Water sitting on the panel for the night won't do anything to them.
Thats just my 2 cents. I dont even have water draining clips and the panels are perfectly fine. Just on the edge there can be some dirt accumulation if its a quick rain but it always gets cleaned off if it rains for at least 15 minutes properly.
Tilt mounts cost 1.1k excluding the bolts etc. to fit on the roof. A new panel costs 1.1k. Just add more panels. Even if real estate is a problem, he would need to space the panels enough to avoid shading them with the tilt. Not worth it to me.

I think this is it. My rails run right through. His arent from the pictures. I suspect the installer didnt want to spend on the railing and took shortcuts cutting small pieces and just supports on the ends. And it looks like his panels are being supported on the short length of the panels. Mine are supported along the long edge with the rail going right through.
And the fact that the panels are mounted with the edges touching, I cant imagine that is good with heat not being able to escape anywhere. There is at least 10cm (I can stick my hand under the panels) between the panel and the corrugated roof. And there is a gap between each of the panels along the rail so there is plenty of ventilation between the panels. 
I can see why the installer would have gone cheap, it cost me a bit over 3k to buy the rails and another 2k for the corrugated mounting brackets when I did mine. I could have saved 2k easily by doing it the way the installer did his but it would not be structurally sound for the panels.
The slope of the panels has little to do with it in my opinion.

Those panels are cooked , why would you rub them with vinegar haha ? water and dirt is under the glass layer . Solar panels have a anti reflective layer that is not acid /detergent friendly btw . Those panels need to be replaced and the new ones need middle support IMO.

Those panels are cooked , why would you rub them with vinegar haha ? water and dirt is under the glass layer . Solar panels have a anti reflective layer that is not acid /detergent friendly btw . Those panels need to be replaced and the new ones need middle support IMO.

Want to give vinegar a try on the spots? Wet a rag full of vinegar see if it helps?

The top and bottom battery in a stack will have the least resistance(because of the daisy chaining) and thus provide a little more current than the middle batteries. that along with different age /cycles on batteries will either cause the pause at 89% for balancing or not , i hardly every see the 89% pause anymore as i cycle past 2 balancing points every day . Atleast thats my theory haha!

i think its around 17-18A if i remember correctly . Donno if it will switch off but it may go up in smoke lol

The easiest way i have found is to just limit the battery power in the system work mode for the particular time. I have mine set to 2000w for the evening so it cant deplete the battery as fast when using the oven or geyser.

Hi,
Im back again unfortunately. This high frequency noise has come back on my sunsynk inverter despite pressing “low noise mode” on the sunsynk inverter. When I turn back to Eskom, the high pituch noise disappears. It’s only present when I go through my 16kw sunsynk inverter. There are 2 high pitched frequencies one at 15khz and another around around 19khz. I measured these on a condenser microphone. Any suggestions or electricians or electrical engineers that can assist with this problem? Based in Joburg? I’m a sound engineer and recording artist so this is urgent unfortunately

Hi @Dry_Reef You are putting panel strings of unequal length in parallel to each other. Don't do that, keep the parallel strings of the same length. Also, your terminology is a bit non-standard, so what you're doing is a bit unclear. In any case, rather do the following: ...

For MPPT1: - Use the old 12x330w panels in a configuration of 6s2p, that means create two strings, each of 6 panels in length, put those two strings in parallel to each other, and then feed that combined set of strings to the 1st PV input. Point all these panels in one direction on the roof, eg. all North or all East, etc.
For MPPT2: - Use the 8 new panels in a single series string, and connect all 8 panels in series into your 2nd PV input. Do NOT put any of these panels in parallel to each other. Point all these panels in one direction.

For PV1 you can expect an open circuit Voltage of 6x47.0Voc, which equals 286,2Voc, but while it is operating, you're more likely to see 6 x 37.5Vmp, which equals 225Vmp and then up to 2 x 8.89A current at full power, or up to around 17.5A current.
For PV2 (edit: previously read PV1; Typo.) you can expect an open circuit Voltage of 8x47.7V, which equals 381.6V , but while it is operating you'd see 8x39.44 Vmp, which equals 315.5V, and then up to 15.21A current.

This is your best configuration. I understand you're trying to chase an optimum Voltage, but the setup here will also work fine, all within normal range, and without clipping of any current, and without any over-Voltage.
It's okay to increase the charge rate of the battery bank. Check the battery spec sheet for the ideal recommendation, but instead of 60A you can typically set the inverter to charge 120A at least, and still be treating your batteries well, considering you've got 4x5kWh batteries.

I hope this makes sense. If there's any doubt, please double-check it with someone like @TaliaB

What's the difference apart from the phone app?
The settings on the inverter are essentially the same as the deye. At times different wordings. Impossible for one to give more savings than the other since it's the same thing.
Deye as the manufacturer you get direct access to their engineers working on the actual firmware etc if there's an issue. Sunsynk is a middle man.
Nevertheless both are good. No issues either way. Deye service centre is definitely faster than Sunsynk though at the moment.
Whichever you choose, it's a great product, comfortably amongst the best.

Its a shame to see , i actually received excellent support from Deye for my Sunsynk ,crazy to see but there is no good reason to go Sunsynk over Deye anymore .

100% agreed , that's why i cycle my batteries down to 5% every day   This is something Will prowse was preaching since way back , he cycles from 0-100% for that reason. The fastest way for the batteries to pay for themselves is to use all your capacity every day (leaving a small buffer at the end if needed for loadshedding/grid failure depending on you usage)

Hi guys,
I've realized that my first Pylontech battery will be 6 years old this March, so I've pulled some stats on the SOH and Cycles to share together with my thoughts.
CC = 52.5V
CV = 52.5V
8x US3000
System SOH : 96 % Power Volt Curr Tempr Tlow Thigh Vlow Vhigh Base.St Volt.St Curr.St Temp.St Coulomb Time B.V.St B.T.St 1 50955 -260 23000 20000 21000 3390 3399 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:53 Normal Normal 2 50965 -256 23000 20000 21000 3390 3400 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 3 50970 -260 23000 20000 20000 3392 3402 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 4 50948 -252 23000 20000 20000 3387 3399 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 5 50969 -256 23000 20000 20000 3389 3399 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 6 50975 -262 22000 20000 20000 3392 3400 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 7 50959 -268 22000 19000 19000 3391 3399 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal 8 50945 -260 21000 18000 18000 3388 3398 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 22:16:52 Normal Normal CYCLE Times : 267 CYCLE Times : 518 CYCLE Times : 521 CYCLE Times : 523 CYCLE Times : 529 CYCLE Times : 520 CYCLE Times : 511 CYCLE Times : 501  
8x US3000C
System SOH : 98 % Power Volt Curr Tempr Tlow Thigh Vlow Vhigh Base.St Volt.St Curr.St Temp.St Coulomb Time B.V.St B.T.St MosTempr M.T.St 1 50890 0 22100 19900 19900 3387 3396 Idle Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:12 Normal Normal 20600 Normal 2 50903 -203 22300 19900 20200 3378 3397 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:10 Normal Normal 21000 Normal 3 50897 -256 23300 19700 20100 3386 3396 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 21300 Normal 4 50906 -256 22300 18900 19300 3386 3396 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 20600 Normal 5 50895 -258 22000 19000 19400 3385 3395 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 20200 Normal 6 50896 -266 21900 18300 18600 3385 3397 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 19900 Normal 7 50896 -260 20900 17900 18200 3386 3395 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 19200 Normal 8 50901 -264 20600 17100 17500 3387 3397 Dischg Normal Normal Normal 100% 2025-01-30 23:52:08 Normal Normal 18900 Normal 9 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 10 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 11 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 12 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 13 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 14 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 15 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - 16 - - - - - - - Absent - - - - - - - CYCLE Times : 140 CYCLE Times : 141 CYCLE Times : 246 CYCLE Times : 233 CYCLE Times : 240 CYCLE Times : 249 CYCLE Times : 249 CYCLE Times : 247  
At a first look, it's not that bad with 96% SOH on a 6yrs old battery. But on the other hand, it's been 4% down for just roughly 500 cycles it made in that time. If linear, then after around 2500 cycles made in total, it will be at 80% SOH. If 500 cycles took me 6yrs then after 2500 cycles done in total the battery will be 30 years old. No way the battery will last for that long. Based on this, I would say that the battery will die of age well before it dies on cycles.
What do you think?
Youda

Finally got around to setting up the new gadgets
Trying out Home Assistant for the 1st time in over 3 years, must say, they have done a good job on making it more user friendly, now at last I can try out the Sunsynk flows. And all my sensors and smart switches and power meters.
Needed some tweaking to make it work with all my sensors, so far working ok

Looking good so far.
HomeAssistant picked up ALL my tasmotized devices automatically. No need to configure anything in yaml's
That was the easiest setup ever 😁 and creating customised entities was a breeze.
3 years ago with HA I gave up trying to get all my devices and their entities loaded.

 
 

If you look at the event log you will notice that the there are a number of overvoltage alarms where the highest cell voltage is above 3650mV while the lowest is around 3400mV (at the same time). One should also question how the BMS allows a cell to reach 3834mV.
There are also a number of items on the event log where the lowest cell voltage is around 3000mV while the highest cell voltages 3250mV (at the same time).
Unfortunately the data does not indicate which cell or cells is/are overvolting
Not to sure what the pack overvoltage level is on these batteries but highest pack voltage per the data was 53.295V which seems ok ? (so the overvoltage is/was not caused by a pack over voltage but rather a cell overvoltage event)
My take on this data is that there is /was likely a runner cell in this pack causing the overvoltage alarms (ie there is/was one or more weaker cells compared to the others that would reach 3650mV on charge well before the other cells and 3000mV under load also well before the other cells). If you have a runner cell your charge voltage (on your inverter) really becomes irrelevant to control this (unless you charge a very low voltages).
Unfortunately (for you) and fortunately (for Pylontech) you have no way to proof that this was the case from the start. But, given that there is only 391 cycles (does this look correct given the 6272 OV times) on this battery it is more likely than not that when you purchased this batery that this was indeed the case.
I think they are taking you for a ride and hiding behind their T&C. Unfortunately runner cell are part and parcel of pre packaged battery packs with integrated BMSes and should actually be treated as latent defects.

If @GreenFields is correct about your panels you may likely need 550W canadian solar or ja solar as alternative, they have a higher VOC rating and lower short circuit current rating AFAIK. You need to get the exact panel information from your installer so we can advise you properly.

My suggestion on solar panel replacement would be 4 x Ja 550w or if you have space 5 x JA 550w 5S1P the latter will work great providing ~210v Vmp @ 13A. Below data sheet of the JA panel range you can consider. I have use these panels in my installations and they work great with the 5kw Sunsynk.
JA-Solar-525W-550W.pdf